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Beauty Retailing - Europe - January 2012

Beauty Retailing - Europe - January 2012

Mintel European Retail Intelligence provides independent, expert coverage of the major retail sectors throughout Europe. Each title in this series analyses retailing trends in up to 19 European markets, including the Scandinavian nations and Eastern European countries such as the Czech Republic and Poland as well as the major Western European markets.

The coverage provided by each report is as accurate, relevant and up-to-date as possible, combining in-house sector expertise with retailer performance data, taken directly from industry and trade sources....

£1,906.77

Mintel European Retail Intelligence provides independent, expert coverage of the major retail sectors throughout Europe. Each title in this series analyses retailing trends in up to 19 European markets, including the Scandinavian nations and Eastern European countries such as the Czech Republic and Poland as well as the major Western European markets.

The coverage provided by each report is as accurate, relevant and up-to-date as possible, combining in-house sector expertise with retailer performance data, taken directly from industry and trade sources.

With titles ranging from 'DIY Retailing in Europe' through to 'Food Retailing in Europe', each market examination includes studies of:

  • background economic and demographic data
  • market sizes
  • regional retailing trends and issues
  • market drivers
  • consumer expenditure
  • consumer trends
  • leading pan-European retailers
  • domestic retailers
  • market forecasts

Executive Summary


Consumer spending on personal care goods


Figure 1: Consumer spending on personal care goods, incl. VAT, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2009-10

Figure 2: Consumer spending on personal care goods, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2009-10

Consumer spending on beauty products


Figure 3: Annual per-capita consumer spending on colour cosmetics/hair care/facial care/fragrances, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010

Where this is spent


Figure 4: Estimated distribution of consumer spending on personal care goods, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2010

Health and beauty specialists sector sizes


Figure 5: European health and beauty specialists sector sales, by country, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2009-11 (f)

Beauty specialists sector sizes


Figure 6: European beauty specialists sector sales, by country, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010

The leading beauty specialists


Figure 7: Leading European beauty specialists by European revenues, 2009/10-2010/11

Report Scope


Beauty and personal care retailing


Sources for consumer spending


Abbreviations


Technical notes


Financial definitions

Currencies

Country codes

Figure 8: Country codes

VAT

Figure 9: Europe: Standard VAT rates, 2010/11

European Summary and Outlook


The market: How much do consumers spend on personal care?


Definition


Spending data


Figure 10: Consumer spending on personal care goods, incl. VAT, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2009-10

Figure 11: Consumer spending on personal care goods, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2006-10

Figure 12: Annual per-capita consumer spending on personal care goods, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2009-10

The market: How much is spent on beauty products?


Figure 13: Annual per-capita consumer spending on colour cosmetics/hair care/facial care/fragrances, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010

Figure 14: Consumer spending on colour cosmetics, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010-11

Figure 15: Consumer spending on hair care products, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010-11

Figure 16: Consumer spending on facial care products, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010-11

Figure 17: Consumer spending on fragrances, UK, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Netherlands, 2010-11

The market: Which channels do consumers shop?


Figure 18: Estimated distribution of consumer spending on personal care goods, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, 2010

The consumer: Where do they choose to shop?


UK:

Figure 19: UK: Outlets where make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

France:

Figure 20: France: Outlets where make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011 (%)

Germany:

Figure 21: Germany: Outlets where make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011 (%)

Spain:

Figure 22: Spain: Outlets where make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

Italy:

Figure 23: Italy: Outlets where make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011 (%)

The market: Performance of the H&B specialists sector


Figure 24: European health and beauty specialists sector sales, by country, 2006-10

The market: Sales forecasts for the H&B specialists sector


Figure 25: European health and beauty specialists sector sales forecasts, by country, 2011-16

The market: How big are Europe’s beauty specialists’ sectors?


Figure 26: European beauty specialists’ sector sales, by country, 2010

The retailers: Performance of the leading specialists


Figure 27: Leading European beauty specialists, by European revenues, 2009/10-2010/11

Figure 28: Leading European beauty specialists, by European revenues, 2009/10-2010/11

Where next?


Preparing for a lower-growth future

France


Executive summary


The market: Economic and demographic context


The economy


Figure 29: France: Quarterly GDP growth, 1991-2011 (Q3)

Figure 30: France: Indicator of consumer confidence, January 2007-November 2011

Inflation


Figure 31: France: Inflation in beauty and other major categories, 2006-11 (Nov)

Figure 32: France: Percentage change in Consumer Price Index vs average wages, 2006-11

Demographics


Figure 33: France: Over 65s as % total French population, 1950-2030

The market: Consumer spending


Figure 34: France: Consumer spending on beauty and selected other goods, 2006-10

Personal care goods vs all consumer spend


Figure 35: France: Spending on personal care goods as % of all consumer spending, 2005-10

Personal care goods vs personal care services


Figure 36: France: Spending on personal care goods vs spending on personal care services, 2005-10

Product market breakdown


Figure 37: France: Consumer spending on personal care, by major category, 2010-11

The market: The health and beauty specialists sector


Retail sales and forecast


Figure 38: France: Health and beauty retailers’ sales, 2006-10

Figure 39: France: Beauty specialists’ retail sales forecasts, 2011-16

The retailers: Channels of distribution


Figure 40: France: Personal care goods, spending by channel of distribution, 2010

The retailers: Online


Figure 41: France: Top transactional beauty websites, by number of visits, July 2011

The retailers: Leading specialists


Yves Rocher leads the sector

Marionnaud bounces back

Sephora loses second place

Steady growth maintained at Nocibé

Figure 42: France: Leading beauty retailers, 2010/11

The retailers: Market shares


Figure 43: France: Beauty retailers’ market shares, 2010

The consumer: Where they shop


Figure 44: France: Outlets from which make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought, by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

Where they shop by age group and product type


Figure 45: France: Outlets from which make-up products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 46: France: Outlets from which hair care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 47: France: Outlets from which skin care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 48: France: Outlets from which fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Germany


Executive summary


The market: Economic and demographic context


The economy


Figure 49: Germany: Real-terms, year-on-year GDP growth, Q1 2006-Q3 2011

Figure 50: Germany: Selected labour market indicators, Q1 2009-Q3 2011

Figure 51: Germany: Consumer confidence and retail trade confidence, Dec 2010-Nov 2011

Inflation


Figure 52: Germany: Consumer prices index, Jan 2006-Oct 2011

Demographics


Figure 53: Germany: Over 65s as % total population, 1960-2030

Implications for beauty retailers


Economy:

Demographics:

The market: Consumer spending


Personal care spending data


Figure 54: Germany: Consumer spending on personal care and other selected categories, 2006-10

Personal care goods spending per capita


Figure 55: Germany: Annual per-capita consumer expenditure on personal care goods, 2006-10

Personal care goods spending as a share of all expenditure


Figure 56: Germany: Consumer spending on personal care goods as percentage of total consumer spending, 2006-10

Spending on personal care goods relative to services


Figure 57: Germany: Spending on personal care goods vs spending on personal care services, 2006-10

Trade association data


Figure 58: Germany: Total consumption of cosmetics and toiletries products, 2010-11

Spending breakdown by category


Figure 59: Germany: Consumer spending on skin care and hair care, 2010-11f

Figure 60: Germany: Consumer spending on personal care, by major category, 2010-11

Category performance and prospects


The market: The health and beauty specialists sector


Economic outlook


Retail sales and forecasts


Figure 61: Germany: Beauty retailers’ sales, 2006-10

Figure 62: Germany: Beauty retailers’ sales forecasts, 2011-16

Index of retail sales


Figure 63: Germany: Index of retail sales: Annual % change, Jan 2010-Oct 2011 (current prices)

The market: Outlet and enterprise data


Figure 64: Germany: Number of retail enterprises, 2005-09

Figure 65: Germany: Number of outlets, 2005-09

The retailers: Channels of distribution


Drugstores dominate the beauty market

Perfumeries led by Douglas

Grocers gain share thanks to Schlecker’s crisis

Department stores in decline

Online

Others

Direct selling

Figure 66: Germany: Specialist beauty members of the direct selling association, 2011

The retailers: Online


Proportion of consumers shopping online


Figure 67: Germany: Percentage of individuals who have purchased goods or services online within the preceding three/12 months, 2006-11

Figure 68: Percentage of female consumers who have purchased beauty products online in the 12 months to March 2011, Italy, Spain, Germany, France and UK

Leading websites by usage


Figure 69: Germany: Leading transactional beauty websites, July 2011

The retailers: Leading specialists


Schlecker in crisis – files for insolvency

dm set to take market leader position

Dynamic Rossmann

Müller lagging a little, but still outperforming Schlecker

Douglas dominates in perfumery

Budnikowsky, a regional player

Figure 70: Germany: Leading beauty retailers, 2010/11

The retailers: Market shares


Figure 71: Germany: Leading beauty retailers’ estimated shares of sector sales, 2010

The consumer: Where they shop


Figure 72: Germany: Outlets from which make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

Where they shop by age group and product type


Figure 73: Germany: Outlets from which make-up products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 74: Germany: Outlets from which hair care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 75: Germany: Outlets from which skin care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 76: Germany: Outlets from which fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Italy


Executive summary


The market: Economic and demographic context


Long-standing economic problems


Pharmacy liberalisation


The economy


Figure 77: Italy: Real-terms, year-on-year GDP growth, Q1 2006-Q2 2011

Figure 78: Italy: Consumer confidence and retail trade confidence, Dec 2010-Nov 2011

Austerity


Bond markets


Consumer price inflation


Figure 79: Italy: Harmonised index of consumer prices: Annual % change, Jan 2006-Nov 2011

The consumer


Figure 80: Selected labour market indicators, Q1 2009-Q2 2011

Demographics


Figure 81: Italy: Foreign resident population on 1 January, 2007-11

Implications for beauty retailers


Economy:

Demographics:

The market: Consumer spending


Personal care spending data


Figure 82: Italy: Consumer spending on selected categories, 2006-10

Personal care goods spending per capita


Figure 83: Italy: Annual per-capita consumer expenditure on personal care goods, 2006-10

Personal care goods spending as a share of all expenditure


Figure 84: Italy: Consumer spending on personal care goods as a percentage of total consumer spending, 2006-10

Spending on personal care goods relative to services


Figure 85: Italy: Consumer spending on personal care goods relative to spending at hairdressing salons & personal grooming establishments, 2006-10

Trade association data


Figure 86: Italy: Total consumption of cosmetics and toiletries products, 2006-10

Spending breakdown by category


Figure 87: Italy: Consumer spending on skin care and hair care, 2010-11

Figure 88: Italy: Consumer spending on personal care by major category, 2010-11

Category performance and prospects


The market: The health and beauty specialists sector


Economic and consumer outlook


Retail sales and forecasts


Figure 89: Italy: Estimated retail sales, 2006-10

Figure 90: Italy: Retail sales forecasts, 2011-16

Index of retail sales


Figure 91: Italy: Index of retail sales: Annual % change, Jan 2010-Sep 2011

Enterprise numbers


Figure 92: Italy: Retail enterprises, by sector, 2008-09

Outlet numbers


Figure 93: Italy: Outlet numbers, 2007

Figure 94: Italy: Estimated enterprise numbers, 2010

The retailers: Channels of distribution


Figure 95: Italy: Personal care goods, estimated channels of distribution, 2010

Pharmacies, parapharmacies and legislation

Direct selling

Figure 96: Italy: Specialist beauty members of the direct selling association, 2011

The retailers: Online


Proportion of consumers shopping online


Figure 97: Percentage of individuals who have purchased goods or services online within the preceding three/12 months, 2006-11

Figure 98: Percentage of female consumers who have purchased beauty products online in the 12 months to March 2011, Italy, Spain, Germany, France and UK

Barrier to online growth: Cash culture

Barrier to online growth: Low levels of internet access

Figure 99: Italy: Percentage of households with any internet access/broadband connection, 2006-11

Leading websites by usage


Figure 100: Italy: Leading transactional beauty websites, July 2011

The retailers: Leading specialists


Characteristics of the sector

Bridgepoint builds scale in perfumery

Private label a focus for perfumery

The drugstores

Bottega Verde

Figure 101: Italy: Identified leading beauty specialists, 2010/11

The retailers: Market shares


Figure 102: Italy: Leading beauty specialists’ estimated shares of sector sales, 2010

The consumer: Where they shop


Figure 103: Italy: Outlets from which make-up/haircare/skincare/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

Where they shop by age group and product type


Figure 104: Italy: Outlets from which make-up products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 105: Italy: Outlets from which hair care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 106: Italy: Outlets from which skin care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 107: Italy: Outlets from which fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

The Netherlands


Executive summary


The market: Economic and demographic context


The economy


Figure 108: Netherlands: Real-terms, year-on-year GDP growth, Q1 2006-Q3 2011

Figure 109: Netherlands: Selected labour market indicators, Q1 2009-Q3 2011

Figure 110: Netherlands: Consumer confidence and retail trade confidence, Dec 2010-Nov 2011

Demographics


Figure 111: Netherlands: Over 65s as % total population, 1960-2060

Inflation


Figure 112: Netherlands: Consumer prices index, Jan 2006-Oct 2011

Implications for beauty retailers


Economy:

Demographics:

The market: Consumer spending


Figure 113: Netherlands: Consumer spending on personal care and other selected categories, 2006-10

Personal care goods spending per capita


Figure 114: Netherlands: Annual per-capita consumer expenditure on personal care goods (estimated), 2006-10

Personal care goods spending as a share of all expenditure


Figure 115: Netherlands: Consumer spending on personal care goods (estimated) as percentage of total consumer spending, 2006-10

Spending breakdown by category


Figure 116: Netherlands: Consumer spending on personal care, by major category, 2010-11

The market: The health and beauty specialists sector


Economic outlook


Retail sales and forecasts


Figure 117: Netherlands: Health and beauty retailers’ sales, 2006-10

Figure 118: Netherlands: Health and beauty retailers’ sales forecasts, 2011-16

Index of retail sales


Figure 119: Netherlands: Index of retail sales: Annual % change, Jan 2010-Nov 2011 (current prices)

The market: Outlet and enterprise data


Figure 120: The Netherlands: Number of retail enterprises, 2006-10

Figure 121: The Netherlands: Number of retail outlets, 2006-10

The retailers: Channels of distribution


Direct selling

Figure 122: Netherlands: Specialist beauty members of the direct selling association, 2011

The retailers: Online


Figure 123: Netherlands: Percentage of individuals who have purchased goods or services online within the preceding three/12 months, 2006-11

The retailers: Leading specialists


A.S. Watson dominates

Etos second largest drugstore chain

DA expanding under private ownership

Schlecker pulls out

Douglas leads in perfumery

Others

Figure 124: Netherlands: Leading beauty retailers, 2010/11

The retailers: Market shares


Figure 125: Netherlands: Leading beauty retailers’ estimated shares of sector sales, 2010

Spain


Executive summary


The market: Economic and demographic context


Demographics


Figure 126: Spain: Over 65s as % total Spanish population, 2005-30

The economy


Figure 127: Spain: Quarterly GDP growth, 2006-11 (Q3)

Consumer confidence


Figure 128: Spain: Indicator of consumer confidence, January 2007-November 2011

Inflation


Figure 129: Spain: Consumer prices inflation, Jan 2006-Nov 2011

Figure 130: Spain: Percentage change in Consumer Price Index vs average wage growth, 2006-11

Implications for retailers


The market: Consumer spending


Figure 131: Spain: Consumer spending on beauty and selected other goods, 2006-10

Personal care vs all consumer spend


Figure 132: Spain: Estimated spending on personal care goods and services as % of all consumer spending, 2006-10

Product market breakdown


Figure 133: Spain: Consumer spending on personal care by major category, 2010-11

The market: The health and beauty specialists sector


Retail sales and forecast


Figure 134: Spain: Health and beauty retailers’ sales, 2006-10

Figure 135: Spain: Health and beauty retailers’ sales forecasts, 2011-16

Enterprise and outlet numbers


Figure 136: Spain: Retail enterprises, 2005-09

Figure 137: Spain: Retail outlets, 2005, 2007 and 2009

The retailers: Channels of distribution


Figure 138: Spain: Beauty and toiletries market, retail channels of distribution, 2010

The retailers: Online


Figure 139: Spain: Percentage of individuals who have purchased goods or services online within the preceding three/12 months, 2006-11

Figure 140: Spain: Top transactional beauty websites, by number of visits, July 2011

The retailers: Leading specialists


Tough year for Schlecker

French players post mixed performance

Douglas struggles

Wider ranges

Building scale

Figure 141: Spain: Leading beauty retailers, 2010/11

The retailers: Market shares


Figure 142: Spain: Leading beauty retailers’ market shares, 2010

The consumer: Where they shop


Figure 143: Spain: Outlets from which make-up/hair care/skin care/fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, March 2011

Where they shop by age group and product type


Figure 144: Spain: Outlets from which make-up products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 145: Spain: Outlets from which hair care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 146: Spain: Outlets from which skin care products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

Figure 147: Spain: Outlets from which fragrance products were bought by female consumers in the last 12 months, by age group, March 2011

United Kingdom


Introduction


Beauty and personal care retailing


Beauty specialists

Sources


Abbreviations


Technical notes


Financial definitions

Currencies

Country codes


Figure 148: Country codes

VAT


Figure 149: Europe: Standard VAT rates, 2010/11

Executive summary


The market


Figure 150: All spending on beauty and personal care products, 2006-16

Economic outlook

The notion of treating will become a harder sell

Winners and losers

Market factors


Competition heats up

Multi-channel steams ahead

M-commerce will gather momentum

Maximising the impact of marketing campaigns

Companies, brands and innovation


Figure 151: Leading retailers: Market shares of all beauty and personal care spending, 2010

Figure 152: Leading specialists: Share of cosmetic & toiletries specialists’ sales, 2010

Innovation – loyalty, digital and collaborative developments

Channels of distribution


Figure 153: Beauty and personal care spending: Channels of distribution, 2009 and 2010

The consumer


Figure 154: Purchase drivers for beauty products, November 2011

Figure 155: Attitudes to beauty shopping, November 2011

Figure 156: Beauty target groups, November 2011

What we think


Issues in the market


Which factors most influence purchasing decisions?


Can Superdrug take on Boots with its loyalty card?


And what does the future hold for loyalty schemes?


How can retailers retain the interest of young people?


The enduring challenge – how can retailers get more men into the grooming market?


Future opportunities


Let’s Make a Deal


Why buy?


Who’s innovating?


Sephora’s mirror app


Superdrug loyalty roadshow


Do not disturb


Figure 157: Clinique’s ‘browsing bracelets’

Harrods Beauty Apothecary and Colour Hall


Taking in-store services further


Figure 158: John Lewis Retreat, Reading

Cadbury’s Blissful treats


Sephora unveils its mobile checkout system


Sensory experiences from Sephora


Figure 159: Sephora’s Sensorium, New York

The market: Economic and demographic background


Key points


Demographic shifts


Ethnic diversity

Figure 160: Number of passengers given leave to enter the UK for work and study by region of nationality, and grants of settlement by region of nationality, 2010

Figure 161: Population estimate, by ethnic group, 2009

Ageing population


Figure 162: UK: Over-65s as a percentage of the total UK population, 1991-2020

Implications for retailers

The economy

Figure 163: UK: Real-terms, year-on-year GDP growth, Q1 2009-Q3 2011(p)

Figure 164: UK: consumer confidence and retail trade confidence, Dec 2010-Nov 2011

Inflation


Figure 165: Consumer prices inflation in selected categories, Dec 2010-Nov 2011

Implications for retailers

The market: Consumer spending on beauty products


Definitions


Consumer spending breakdown


Figure 166: UK: Consumer spending on selected categories, 2006-11

Beauty spending as a share of all spending


Figure 167: Consumer spending on personal care goods as a percentage of total consumer spending, 2006-11

Spending on goods relative to services


Figure 168: Consumer spending on personal care goods relative to spending at hairdressing salons & personal grooming establishments, 2006-11

Category performance and prospects


The market: Sector size and forecast


Key points


Economic and consumer outlook


Health warning

Economic outlook

Beauty retailers’ prospects


Winners and losers

New investment

Online developing fast

M-commerce will gather momentum too

Maximising the impact of marketing campaigns

Collaborative links

Market size forecast


Figure 169: Personal care spending forecast, 2006-16

Forecast methodology


Sector sales


Figure 170: UK: Estimated total health and beauty retailers’ sales, 2006-10

Outlet data


Figure 171: UK: Retail outlets by sector, 2005-09

The market: Strengths and weaknesses


Strengths


Weaknesses


The retailers: Channels of distribution


Key points


Figure 172: UK beauty and personal care market, channels of distribution, 2009 and 2010

The retailers: Leading retailers


Key points


Technical note

Leading beauty specialists


Mixed results


Superdrug initiatives should start to bear fruit


What lies ahead for Savers and The Perfume Shop?


The Body Shop in need of fresh ideas


Niche players hold up well


Figure 173: UK: Leading beauty specialists, 2010/11

Leading non-specialists and non-store retailers


Figure 174: Leading non-specialists, 2010/11

Non-specialist and non-store retailers’ profiles

Tesco


Figure 175: Tesco: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

J. Sainsbury


Figure 176: J. Sainsbury exclusive brands, Mandara Spa and Dirty Works, and point-of-sale merchandising

Figure 177: Sainsbury’s: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Asda


Figure 178: Asda: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Morrisons


Figure 179: Morrisons: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Debenhams


Figure 180: Bliss spa, Debenhams, Oxford Street

Figure 181: Debenhams: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

John Lewis


House of Fraser


Marks & Spencer


Figure 182: Beauty section, Marks & Spencer, Marble Arch

Figure 183: Marks & Spencer: Beauty consumer profile (relative to the average), by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Avon Cosmetics


The retailers: Market shares


Figure 184: Leading retailers of personal care products’ shares of consumer spending on personal care goods, 2010

Figure 185: Leading cosmetics and toiletries specialists’ shares of the cosmetics/toiletries specialists sector, 2010

The retailers: Online


Key points


Prospects for beauty online


Market size


Figure 186: Estimated market size and forecast of online consumer spending on cosmetics and toiletries, 2006-11

Figure 187: Estimated distribution of online consumer spending on cosmetics and toiletries, by segment, 2010

Leading pureplay retailers


Figure 188: Leading home shopping retailers’ online beauty and toiletries sales, 2010/11

Website usage


Figure 189: Leading cosmetics/fragrance retail websites, three-month average to October 2011

Figure 190: Leading healthcare retail websites, three-month average to October 2011

The online consumer


Figure 191: Proportion of adult population buying toiletries/cosmetics/fragrances online in the preceding three months, July 2010-July 2011

Figure 192: Proportion of adult population buying toiletries/cosmetics/fragrances online in the preceding three months, by socio-economic group, age and gender, July 2011

The consumer: Brand research


Brand map


Figure 193: Attitudes towards and usage of brands in the beauty retail sector, November 2011

Correspondence analysis

Brand attitudes


Figure 194: Attitudes by beauty retail brand, November 2011

Brand personality


Figure 195: Beauty retail brand personality – macro image, November 2011

Figure 196: Beauty retail brand personality – micro image, November 2011

Brand experience


Figure 197: Beauty retail brand usage, November 2011

Figure 198: Satisfaction with various beauty retail brands, November 2011

Figure 199: Consideration of beauty retail brands, November 2011

Figure 200: Consumer perceptions of current beauty retail brand performance, November 2011

Figure 201: Beauty retail brand recommendation – Net Promoter Score, November 2011

Brand index


Figure 202: Beauty retail brand index, November 2011

Figure 203: Beauty retail brand index vs. recommendation, November 2011

Target group analysis


Figure 204: Target groups, November 2011

Figure 205: Beauty retail brand usage, by target groups, November 2011

Group One – Conformists

Group Two – Simply the Best

Group Three – Shelf Stalkers

Group Four – Habitual Shoppers

Group Five – Individualists

The consumer – Who shops where for beauty products


Key points


Figure 206: Where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, November 2011

Shopper numbers fall in 2011

Figure 207: Where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, November 2009, 2010 and 2011

Figure 208: Trends in those spending extra money on fragrances/toiletries/make-up and beauty treatments/haircuts, January-October 2011

Boots maintains its lead

Superdrug targets younger beauty shoppers

Tesco cranks up its beauty proposition

Other supermarkets…

… and department stores

The internet

Retailer market positioning


Figure 209: UK: Market positioning of leading retailers/channels, November 2011

Repertoire – the young and the affluent are more promiscuous


Figure 210: Repertoire of where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by demographics, November 2011

The consumer – What drives beauty purchasing


Key points


What drove choice in 2011


Figure 211: Purchase drivers for beauty products, November 2011

Location, location


The dichotomy of quality and low prices


Choice drivers by age and affluence


Deals, loyalty cards and own brands more important to women


Figure 212: Select purchase drivers for beauty, by gender, November 2011

Pre-/no family choices driven first and foremost by quality


Figure 213: Select purchase drivers for beauty, by pre-/no family lifestage, November 2011

Low prices are key for families


Figure 214: Select purchase drivers for beauty, by family lifestage, November 2011

Third age choices driven by deals and promotions


Figure 215: Select purchase drivers for beauty, by third age lifestage, November 2011

Variety stores and supermarket shoppers most sensitive to price


Figure 216: Those driven by low prices, by where they shop, November 2011

Specialist beauty store shoppers most driven by quality


Figure 217: Those driven by good quality, by where they shop, November 2011

The power of the internet for personal recommendations


Figure 218: Those driven by personal recommendation, by where they shop, November 2011

The consumer – Attitudes towards beauty shopping


Key points


Figure 219: Attitudes to beauty shopping, November 2011

The gender divide


Figure 220: Attitudes to beauty shopping, by gender, November 2011

The consumer – Target groups


Figure 221: Beauty target groups, November 2011

Figure 222: Attitudes towards beauty purchasing, by target groups, November 2011

Group 1: The Loyalists (24%)


Who are The Loyalists?

Group 2: The Canny Treaters (11%)


Who are The Canny Treaters?

Group 3: The Enthusiasts (9%)


Who are The Enthusiasts?

Group 4: The Indifferent (56%)


Who are The Indifferent?

Where people shop by typology


Figure 223: Where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by target groups, November 2011

Appendix – The consumer – Brand research


Figure 224: Brand usage, November 2011

Figure 225: Brand commitment, November 2011

Figure 226: Brand momentum, November 2011

Figure 227: Brand diversity, November 2011

Figure 228: Brand satisfaction, November 2011

Figure 229: Brand recommendation, November 2011

Figure 230: Brand attitude, November 2011

Figure 231: Brand image – macro image, November 2011

Figure 232: Brand image – micro image, November 2011

Figure 233: Profile of target groups, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 234: Psychographic segmentation, by target groups, November 2011

Figure 235: Brand usage, by target group, November 2011

Brand index


Figure 236: Brand index, November 2011

Appendix – The consumer – Who shops where for beauty products


Figure 237: Most popular where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 238: Next most popular where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 239: Other where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 240: Repertoire of where they bought beauty products in the last 12 months, by demographics, November 2011

Appendix – The consumer – What drives beauty purchasing


Figure 241: Most popular important factors in the purchasing decision, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 242: Next most popular important factors in the purchasing decision, by demographics, November 2011

Appendix – The consumer – Attitudes towards beauty purchasing


Figure 243: Most popular attitudes towards beauty purchasing, by demographics, November 2011

Figure 244: Next most popular attitudes towards beauty purchasing, by demographics, November 2011

Appendix – The consumer – Target groups


Figure 245: Target groups, by demographics, November 2011

A.S. Watson (Europe)


Figure 246: A. S. Watson (Europe): Sales as share of Health & beauty specialists’ sales in Europe, 2008-10

Strategic evaluation


Revenues by region and operation

Figure 247: A. S. Watson (Europe): Estimated sales breakdown by operation, 2010

Mixed fortunes for Marionnaud

UK: Superdrug

Figure 248: Superdrug: Optimum and brand-similar products, launched 2011

UK: The Perfume Shop

Background


Figure 249: A. S. Watson: European health and beauty operations, 2011

Company performance


Figure 250: A. S. Watson (Europe): Estimated sales, 2008-10

Figure 251: A. S. Watson (Europe): Outlet data, 2008-10

Retail offering


Rossmann joint venture


Figure 252: A. S. Watson (Europe): Rossmann store numbers, 2006-10

Figure 253: A. S. Watson (Europe): Rossmann JV store numbers by territory, December 2010

UK profile


UK: Company performance


Figure 254: A. S. Watson (UK): Sales as share of beauty and cosmetics specialists’ sales in UK, 2006-10

Figure 255: A. S. Watson (UK): Financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 256: A. S. Watson (UK): Outlet data, 2006-10

UK: Superdrug consumer profile


Figure 258: Superdrug: Consumer profile (relative to average), by location, November 2011

Figure 259: Superdrug: Consumer profile (relative to average), by ACORN classification, November 2011

UK retail offering


UK: E-commerce and home shopping


Figure 260: A.S. Watson (UK): Online consumer demographics for Superdrug.com, three month average to October 2011

Figure 261: A.S. Watson (UK): Online consumer demographics for ThePerfumeShop.com, three month average to October 2011

Boots UK


Figure 262: Boots UK beauty and toiletries sales: as share of all UK spending on beauty and personal care, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 263: Alliance Boots UK Health and Beauty Division: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 264: Boots UK: Outlet data, 2007-2011

Store formats


Consumer profile


Figure 265: Boots shoppers in last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Figure 266: Boots shoppers in last 12 months, by region and ACORN group, November 2011

Retail offering


e-commerce


Figure 267: Boots: Online consumer demographics, three month average to October 2011

dm-drogerie markt


Figure 268: dm-drogerie markt’s Sales of share of health & beauty retailers’ sales in Germany, 2007-11

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 269: DM-drogerie markt, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 270: DM-drogerie markt: Outlet data, 2007-11

Store formats


Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Douglas


Figure 271: Douglas perfumery: Share of European health and beauty specialists’/beauty specialists’ sales, 2007-11

Strategic evaluation


Figure 272: Douglas Perfumeries: Sales contribution of German/International stores, 2007-11

Figure 273: Douglas Perfumeries: German/International store portfolio, 2007-11

Figure 274: Douglas Perfumeries: Stores per million capita in selected countries, 2010

Figure 275: Douglas Perfumeries: Sales per store, 2010

Figure 276: Douglas Perfumeries: Sales per store growth rates in selected countries, 2006/07-2009/10

Background


Company performance


Figure 277: Douglas Holding: Group financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 278: Douglas Perfumeries: Group financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 279: Douglas Perfumeries: Outlet data, 2007-11

Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Lush Retail Ltd


Figure 280: Lush Retail Ltd: Sales as share of beauty and cosmetics specialists’ sales in UK, 2006-09

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 281: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2005/06-2009/10

Figure 282: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2006-10

Store formats


Retail offering


e-commerce


Figure 283: Lush: Online consumer demographics, three month average to October 2011

Müller


Figure 284: Müller: Estimated sales as share of health & beauty and beauty retailers’ sales in Germany, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 285: Müller: Estimated group sales performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 286: Müller: Estimated outlet data, 2007-11

Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Nocibé


Figure 287: Nocibé: Sales as share of health and beauty and beauty specialists’ sales in France, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 288: Nocibé: Group sales performance, 2006-10

Figure 289: Nocibé: Outlet data, 2006-10

Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Rossmann


Figure 290: Rossman’s Sales of share of health & beauty retailers’ sales in Germany, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 291: Rossmann, Sales performance, 2006-10

Store formats


Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Schlecker (incl Ihr Platz)


Figure 293: Schlecker: Share of European health and beauty specialists’ sales, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 294: Schlecker: Estimated sales performance, 2006-10

Figure 295: Schlecker: Estimated outlet data, 2006-10

Store format


Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Sephora


Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 296: Sephora, Financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 297: Sephora, Estimated financial performance, European markets, 2009-10

Store formats


Figure 298: Sephora: Estimated Outlet data, 2006-10

Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Space NK Ltd


Figure 299: Space NK Ltd: Sales as share of beauty and cosmetics specialists’ sales in UK, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 300: Space NK Ltd: Group financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 301: Space NK Ltd: Outlet data, 2007-2011

Store format


Retail offering


e-commerce


Figure 302: Space NK: Online consumer demographics, three month average to October 2011

The Body Shop


Figure 303: The Body Shop UK: Estimated sales as share of UK cosmetics and toiletries specialists’ sales, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 304: The Body Shop: Financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 305: The Body Shop: Estimated UK and RoI sales performance, 2006-10

Figure 306: The Body Shop: Outlet data, 2006-10

Store formats


Consumer profile


Figure 307: The Body Shop shoppers in last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, November 2011

Figure 308: The Body Shop shoppers in last 12 months, by region and ACORN group, November 2011

Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Figure 309: The Body Shop: Online consumer demographics, three month average to October 2011

Yves Rocher Group


Figure 310: Yves Rocher’s Sales of share of health & beauty retailers’ sales in France, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation


Background


Company performance


Figure 311: Groupe Yves Rocher, Sales performance, 2006-10

Figure 312: Yves Rocher: Estimated outlet data, 2005 -11

Store formats


Retail offering


e-commerce and home shopping


Appendix – The Market


Population


Figure 313: Europe: Population, by age group, 2005

Figure 314: Europe: Population, by age group, 2010

Figure 315: Europe: Population, by age group, 2015

Figure 316: Europe: Population, by age group, 2020

GDP


Figure 317: Europe: GDP (current prices), 2010

Figure 318: Europe: GDP growth rates (current prices), 2001-Q3 2011

Figure 319: Europe: GDP growth rates (constant prices), 2001-Q3 2011

Consumer spending


Figure 320: Europe: Households’ consumer spending (current prices), 2010

Figure 321: Europe: Households’ consumer spending growth rates (current prices), 2001-Q3 2011

Figure 322: Europe: Households’ consumer spending growth rates (constant prices), 2001-Q3 2011

Consumer prices


Figure 323: Europe: Harmonised index of consumer prices, 2001-10

Unemployment


Figure 324: Europe: Average rate of unemployment, 2001-10

Interest rates


Figure 325: Europe: Interest rates, 2005-Q4 2011

Consumer confidence


Figure 326: Europe: Consumer confidence, Jan 2011-Dec 2011

Appendix – Consumer Data


Make-up


Figure 327: Outlets from where make-up was bought in the last 12 months, UK, March 2011

Figure 328: Most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 329: Next most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 330: Most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 331: Next most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 332: Most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Germany, March 2011

Figure 333: Next most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Germany, March 2011

Figure 334: Most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 335: Next most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 336: Most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

Figure 337: Next most popular outlets from where make-up products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

Fragrances


Figure 338: Outlets from where fragrances were bought in the last 12 months, March 2011

Figure 339: Most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 340: Next most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 341: Most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 342: Next most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 343: Outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Germany, March 2011

Figure 344: Most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 345: Next most popular outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 346: Outlets from where fragrance products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

Skincare


Figure 347: Outlets from where skincare was bought in the last 12 months, March 2011

Figure 348: Most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 349: Next most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 350: Most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 351: Next most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 352: Outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Germany, March 2011

Figure 353: Most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 354: Next most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 355: Most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

Figure 356: Next most popular outlets from where skincare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

Haircare


Figure 357: Outlets from where haircare was bought in the last 12 months, March 2011

Figure 358: Most popular outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 359: Next most popular outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, UK, March 2011

Figure 360: Most popular outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 361: Next most popular outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, France, March 2011

Figure 362: Outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Germany, March 2011

Figure 363: Outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Spain, March 2011

Figure 364: Outlets from where haircare products were bought in the last 12 months, by demographics, Italy, March 2011

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