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Beauty Retailing - France - January 2017

“Growth in spending on personal care in France has been sluggish, but the specialist retailers have been growing strongly. This is in no small part due to the dynamism of market leader Sephora, whose accessible stores and digital innovations are leading the way, but also down to the expansion of smaller players, such as Kiko Milano, which is tapping into demand for competitive prices and quality own label, particularly amongst the younger age groups. Online is crucial, but stores have many strengths. The key to success lies in combining the two worlds to create a seamless shopping experience.”
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

This report examines the following issues:

  • Stores are important but must move with the times
  • The rise of the green consumer

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: France: Annual percentage growth in spending on personal care articles and all spending, 2011-16
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 2: France: Estimated channels of distribution for spending on beauty and personal care goods, 2015
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Leading players
                • Key metrics
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 3: France: Leading beauty specialists: Shares of all beauty retailers’ sales, 2015
                  • Online
                    • The consumer
                      • Where they shop
                          • Figure 4: France: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store and online, November 2016
                        • Attitudes to Shopping for Beauty Products
                          • Figure 5: France: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                        • What we think
                        • Issues and Insights

                          • Stores are important but must move with the times
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                                • The rise of the green consumer
                                  • The facts
                                    • The implications
                                    • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                      • Growth in economy and beauty spending is low
                                        • Low price rises on personal care items
                                          • Grocers and specialist chains are the main channels
                                            • Beauty retailers thriving despite weak spending
                                            • Spending and Inflation

                                              • Economic growth is sluggish
                                                • Market size and trend
                                                  • Figure 6: France: Consumer spending on beauty and selected other goods (incl. VAT), 2011-16
                                                • Inflation
                                                  • Figure 7: France: Consumer prices of personal care goods and services items, Annual % change, 2011-15
                                                  • Figure 8: France: Consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2015-November 2016
                                              • Product Market Breakdown

                                                  • Figure 9: France: Main beauty markets, spending (inc VAT), 2011-16
                                                  • Figure 10: France: Main beauty markets, spending (inc VAT), forecasts, 2016-20
                                              • Channels of Distribution

                                                  • Figure 11: France: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store and online, November 2016
                                                • Grocers capture most spending
                                                  • Beauty specialists popular across the board
                                                    • The parapharmacy concept building strength
                                                      • Department stores significant, particularly in Paris
                                                        • Cosmetic ranges in clothing stores try to draw in customers
                                                          • Figure 12: France: Estimated channels of distribution for spending on beauty and personal care goods, 2015
                                                      • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                        • Total retail sales recovered in 2015, further growth forecast in 2016
                                                          • Beauty retailers’ sales accelerating
                                                              • Figure 13: France: Health & beauty retailers sales, excl VAT, 2011-16
                                                              • Figure 14: France: Health & beauty retailers sales, Forecasts, excl VAT, 2016-21
                                                          • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                                            • Specialists as a whole are thriving
                                                              • Top nine generate 70% of sector sales
                                                                • Online small but growing
                                                                  • Social media a crucial tool amongst younger age groups
                                                                  • Leading Players

                                                                    • Specialists thriving
                                                                      • Low priced cosmetics a key growth area
                                                                        • Integration of beauty services
                                                                          • Natural/green credentials increasingly important
                                                                            • Sephora continues to innovate
                                                                              • Nocibé thrives under Douglas ownership
                                                                                • Marionnaud fighting back
                                                                                  • Yves Rocher new store format
                                                                                    • Figure 15: France: Leading beauty specialists, Sales, 2013-16
                                                                                    • Figure 16: France: Leading beauty specialists, Outlet numbers, 2013-16
                                                                                  • Sales per outlet
                                                                                    • Figure 17: France: Leading beauty specialists, Sales per outlet, 2013-16
                                                                                • Market Shares

                                                                                    • Figure 18: France: Leading beauty specialists: Shares of all beauty retailers’ sales, 2013-16
                                                                                • Online

                                                                                  • Internet usage
                                                                                    • Shopping online
                                                                                      • Figure 19: France: Online buyers in last 12 months in key sectors, 2011-16
                                                                                    • Online sales
                                                                                      • Leading online players
                                                                                        • Figure 20: France: Beauty retailers, transactional websites, December 2016
                                                                                      • Social media
                                                                                        • Which social media do consumers use for beauty content?
                                                                                          • Figure 21: France: Online platforms visited to view beauty content, by age, 2015
                                                                                        • What beauty content are consumers interested in?
                                                                                          • Figure 22: France: Interest in future beauty content on social media, by gender, 2015
                                                                                        • What beauty content activities do they do online?
                                                                                          • Figure 23: France: Beauty and personal care social media activities, by age, 2015
                                                                                        • What do they think about beauty blogs and vlogs?
                                                                                          • Figure 24: France: Attitudes to beauty blogs and vlogs, by age, 2015
                                                                                      • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                        • Women the key demographic
                                                                                          • Grocers the most popular channel
                                                                                            • Almost half had bought online
                                                                                              • Green and natural the two most important concerns
                                                                                                • Online and in-store both valued
                                                                                                  • Personalisation an opportunity
                                                                                                  • Where They Shop for Beauty Products

                                                                                                    • Women the main shoppers
                                                                                                      • Figure 25: France: Who shops for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                      • Figure 26: France: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store and online, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Loyalty
                                                                                                      • Figure 27: France: Repertoire of in-store retailers used, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Customer profiles
                                                                                                      • Figure 28: France: Profile of those who bought in-store, by type of retailer used, November 2016
                                                                                                      • Figure 29: France: Profile of those who bought online, by type of retailer used, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Attitudes to Shopping for Beauty Products

                                                                                                      • Figure 30: France: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                                                                                                    • “Green” and “natural” top the list of concerns
                                                                                                      • Figure 31: France: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                    • The influence of online
                                                                                                      • Figure 32: France: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Many strengths in store environments
                                                                                                      • Figure 33: France: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Younger shoppers want more personalisation
                                                                                                      • Figure 34: France: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Attitudes by where people shop
                                                                                                        • Figure 35: France: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products by where people shop, November 2016
                                                                                                    • Other Consumer Research

                                                                                                        • Types of cosmetic brands bought
                                                                                                            • Figure 36: France: Make-up brands used/bought by women in the last 12 months, by age, 2016
                                                                                                          • Buying fragrance
                                                                                                              • Figure 37: France: Interest in trying fragrance tools or concepts if available, 2016
                                                                                                            • Facial skincare shopping behaviours
                                                                                                                • Figure 38: France: Women’s purchasing behaviours of facial skincare products, 2016
                                                                                                            • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                              • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                • Data sources
                                                                                                                • A. S. Watson (Europe)

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • Solid performance
                                                                                                                        • Service
                                                                                                                          • New outlets
                                                                                                                            • Marionnaud
                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                • Marionnaud
                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 39: A. S. Watson (Europe): Group financial performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 40: A. S. Watson (Europe): Outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                      • Continental Europe
                                                                                                                                        • UK
                                                                                                                                        • The Body Shop

                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                              • Enrich Not Exploit
                                                                                                                                                • Skincare products driving sales
                                                                                                                                                  • Maximising mobile opportunities
                                                                                                                                                    • New UK store concept offering an enhanced beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 41: The Body Shop: Retail and consolidated sales, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 42: The Body Shop: Estimated UK sales performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 43: The Body Shop: Estimated outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                        • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                              • Perfumes and fragrances market under pressure
                                                                                                                                                                • E-commerce growth
                                                                                                                                                                  • Private label expansion
                                                                                                                                                                    • Exclusive brands on the rise
                                                                                                                                                                      • New store formats
                                                                                                                                                                        • Growth through acquisitions and store openings
                                                                                                                                                                          • Professional beauty potential
                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 44: Douglas Group: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 45: Douglas Group: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                              • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                    • An authentic sensory in-store beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Professional make-up artists’ recommendations bolster quality credentials
                                                                                                                                                                                        • New smart technology-led store aimed at Millennials
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 46: Kiko Milano: Group sales performance, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 47: Kiko Milano: Estimated outlet data, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Lush Retail

                                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Distinctive USP that resonates with the 50% of consumers looking for natural beauty products
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Transparency and authenticity
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Enhanced store experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Targeting fresh growth opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Building a global open-source platform to connect its growing online community
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 48: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 49: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Revolutionising the beauty shopping experience…
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • …store concepts
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • …virtual and augmented reality
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • …mobile
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Beauty-to-go
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • A new way to shop Sephora
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • New social media reward and mobile messaging e-gifting scheme
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 50: LVMH: Selective Retailing sales and estimated Sephora retail sales, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 51: Sephora: Outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Yves Rocher

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Natural beauty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Environmentally-friendly option
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • New app bridging the online and offline experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • New experienced-based retail concept rolled out across more stores
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 52: Rocher Groupe: Estimated group sales performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 53: Rocher Groupe: Estimated outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Beauty Retailing - France - January 2017

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