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Beauty Retailing - Germany - January 2017

“Growth in spending on personal care in France has been sluggish, but the specialist retailers have been growing strongly. This is in no small part due to the dynamism of market leader Sephora, whose accessible stores and digital innovations are leading the way, but also down to the expansion of smaller players, such as Kiko Milano, which is tapping into demand for competitive prices and quality own label, particularly amongst the younger age groups. Online is crucial, but stores have many strengths. The key to success lies in combining the two worlds to create a seamless shopping experience.”
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

This report examines the following issues:

  • Stores are important but must move with the times
  • The rise of the green consumer

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: Germany: Annual % change in total household expenditure and expenditure on personal care, 2012-16
              • Figure 2: Germany: Consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, May 2015-Oct 2016
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 3: Germany: Estimated channels of distribution for personal care products, 2016
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Leading players
                • dm-drogerie markt extends leadership position
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 4: Germany: Leading beauty specialists: Shares of all beauty retailers’ sales, 2016
                  • Online small but growing
                    • Social media an important part of the purchase journey
                      • The consumer
                        • Where they shop
                          • Figure 5: Germany: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store or online, November 2016
                        • Attitudes to shopping for beauty products
                          • Figure 6: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                        • What we think
                        • Issues and Insights

                          • The changing role of the store
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                                • Greater clarification desired for environmental and health concerns
                                  • The facts
                                    • The implications
                                    • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                      • Consumer spending on personal care remains strong
                                        • Personal care category has an inflationary impact
                                          • Colour cosmetics the fastest growing segment
                                            • Drugstores continue to dominate the market
                                              • Strong but slowing growth in retail sales
                                              • Spending and Inflation

                                                • Economy healthy
                                                  • Consumer spending
                                                    • Figure 7: Germany: Consumer spending on personal care products and services (incl. VAT), 2011-16
                                                  • Inflation
                                                    • Figure 8: Germany: Harmonised index of consumer prices, annual % change, 2011-15
                                                    • Figure 9: Germany: Consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, May 2015-Oct 2016
                                                • Product Market Breakdown

                                                    • Figure 10: Germany: Main beauty markets, Spending (inc VAT), 2011-16
                                                    • Figure 11: Germany: Main beauty markets, Spending (inc VAT), Forecasts, 2016-20
                                                • Channels of Distribution

                                                  • Specialists dominate
                                                    • Discounters grow their influence
                                                      • Department stores losing relevance
                                                        • Online dominated by pureplays
                                                          • Figure 12: Germany: Estimated channels of distribution for personal care products, 2016
                                                      • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                        • Strong but slowing growth
                                                          • Figure 13: Germany: Health & beauty retailers’ sales, excl VAT, 2011-16
                                                          • Figure 14: Germany: Health & beauty retailers sales, forecasts, excl VAT, 2016-21
                                                      • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                                        • dm-drogerie market extends its dominant position
                                                          • Rossmann looks to acquire Budni
                                                            • dm-drogerie markt enjoys market share gains
                                                              • Online remains small for beauty retailers
                                                              • Leading Players

                                                                • dm-drogerie markt cements its leading position
                                                                  • New store openings drive sales growth at Rossmann
                                                                    • A calmer year for Douglas
                                                                      • Budnikowsky eyed by Rossmann
                                                                        • Kiko Milano small but growing
                                                                          • Figure 15: Germany: Leading beauty specialists, Sales, 2013-16
                                                                          • Figure 16: Germany: Leading beauty specialists, Outlets, 2013-16
                                                                          • Figure 17: Germany: Leading beauty specialists, Sales per outlet, 2013-16
                                                                      • Market Shares

                                                                          • Figure 18: Germany: Leading beauty specialists: Shares of all beauty retailers’ sales, 2013-16
                                                                      • Online

                                                                        • Internet usage
                                                                          • Shopping online
                                                                            • Figure 19: Germany: Online buyers in last three months in key sectors, 2007-16
                                                                            • Figure 20: Germany: Proportion of beauty shoppers that have bought beauty products online in the past 12 months, by age, November 2016
                                                                          • Online beauty sales
                                                                            • Leading online players
                                                                              • Social media
                                                                                • Bloggers trump in-store staff for a third of 16-24 year olds
                                                                                  • 16-24 year olds not fazed by bloggers/vloggers being paid
                                                                                    • Facebook most used but 16-24s prefer YouTube
                                                                                      • Freebies and advice drive engagement
                                                                                        • Figure 21: Germany: Interest in future beauty content on social media, by gender, 2015
                                                                                      • Competitions hold wide appeal
                                                                                        • 16-24s: the selfie generation
                                                                                          • Figure 22: Germany: Beauty and personal care social media activities, by age, 2015
                                                                                      • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                        • Drugstores remain the firm favourite
                                                                                          • More information wanted
                                                                                            • Personalisation desired by 16-24 year olds
                                                                                              • The internet as a source of advice and inspiration
                                                                                              • Where they Shop for Beauty Products

                                                                                                • Women still the main purchasers
                                                                                                  • Figure 23: Germany: Who shops for beauty products, by age and gender, November 2016
                                                                                                • Drugstores remain the firm favourite
                                                                                                  • Figure 24: Germany: Where they shop for beauty products, November 2016
                                                                                                • Lack of loyalty among young shoppers
                                                                                                  • Figure 25: Germany: Repertoire of in-store retailers used, by age group, November 2016
                                                                                                • Specialists attract the most affluent
                                                                                                  • Figure 26: Germany: Profile of those who bought either in-store or online, by type of retailer used, November 2016
                                                                                                • 97% of beauty buyers shop in-store
                                                                                                  • Figure 27: Germany: Where they shop for beauty products in-store, November 2016
                                                                                                • Multichannel retailers fall behind online
                                                                                                  • Online beauty is about more than just sales
                                                                                                    • Figure 28: Germany: Where they shop for beauty products online, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Product interaction still important
                                                                                                    • Figure 29: Germany: Women’s purchasing behaviours for facial skincare products, 2016
                                                                                                • Attitudes to Shopping for Beauty Products

                                                                                                  • Consumers want more information
                                                                                                    • Figure 30: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Online an important source of information for young consumers
                                                                                                    • Figure 31: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Customisation appeals to 16-24 year olds
                                                                                                    • Figure 32: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Experience and experimentation remain important
                                                                                                    • Figure 33: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Desire for information extends across the age brackets
                                                                                                    • Figure 34: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                                                  • Attitudes by where they shop
                                                                                                    • Figure 35: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products by where they shop, November 2016
                                                                                                • What They Bought

                                                                                                    • Figure 36: Germany: Make-up brands bought by women in the last 12 months, by age, 2016
                                                                                                  • German consumer interest in fragrance changing technology
                                                                                                    • Figure 37: Germany: Interest in trying fragrance tools or concepts if available, 2016
                                                                                                • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                  • Abbreviations
                                                                                                    • Data sources
                                                                                                    • The Body Shop

                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                          • Enrich Not Exploit
                                                                                                            • Skincare products driving sales
                                                                                                              • Maximising mobile opportunities
                                                                                                                • New UK store concept offering an enhanced beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                      • Figure 38: The Body Shop: Retail and consolidated sales, 2011-15
                                                                                                                      • Figure 39: The Body Shop: Estimated UK sales performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                      • Figure 40: The Body Shop: Estimated outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                    • dm-drogerie markt

                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                          • Renovating the store estate
                                                                                                                            • Online development
                                                                                                                              • Utilising social media to attract younger shoppers
                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 41: dm-drogerie markt: Group sales performance, excl tax, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 42: dm-drogerie markt: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                  • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                        • Perfumes and fragrances market under pressure
                                                                                                                                          • E-commerce growth
                                                                                                                                            • Private label expansion
                                                                                                                                              • Exclusive brands on the rise
                                                                                                                                                • New store formats
                                                                                                                                                  • Growth through acquisitions and store openings
                                                                                                                                                    • Professional beauty potential
                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 43: Douglas Group: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 44: Douglas Group: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                        • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                              • An authentic sensory in-store beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                                • Professional make-up artists’ recommendations bolster quality credentials
                                                                                                                                                                  • New smart technology-led store aimed at Millennials
                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Kiko Milano: Group sales performance, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: Kiko Milano: Estimated outlet data, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                      • Lush Retail

                                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                            • Distinctive USP that resonates with the 50% of consumers looking for natural beauty products
                                                                                                                                                                              • Transparency and authenticity
                                                                                                                                                                                • Enhanced store experience
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Targeting fresh growth opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Building a global open-source platform to connect its growing online community
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 47: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 48: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Müller

                                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                              • More than a just a drugstore
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Alnatura deal bolsters Müller’s natural credentials
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Everyday low prices to fight off competition from discounters
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Multichannel offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 49: Müller: Group sales performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 50: Müller: Outlet data and estimated sales per outlet, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Rossmann

                                                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Store development
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Modernisation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • E-commerce opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • The chance to make a quantum leap
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 51: Rossmann: Group sales performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 52: Rossmann: Outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Beauty Retailing - Germany - January 2017

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