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Beauty Retailing - Italy - January 2017

“The Italian beauty market is continuing to perform well. Despite fluctuating levels of growth in consumer spending, the leading specialists have continued to increase retail sales – strengthening their position in the market and stealing consumer spending away from the grocers and department stores. Looking ahead, the leading specialist Acqua & Sapone has reached maturity and may struggle to compete with competitors that are offering a more compelling proposition, both online and offline.”
– Samantha Dover, Retail Analyst

This report examines the following issues:

  • Using online to engage beauty consumers and drive sales
  • Growing demand for natural and environmentally-friendly beauty products

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: Italy: Annual % change in total household expenditure and expenditure on personal care goods and services, 2011-16
              • Figure 2: Italy: Consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, Jun 2015-Nov 16
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 3: Italy: Channels of distribution for personal care products, 2015
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 4: Italy: Annual % change in all retail sales (excl. fuel) and beauty specialists’ retail sales, 2011-16
            • Leading players
              • Leading retailers strengthen position
                • Specialists growing share of personal care spending
                  • Figure 5: Italy: Estimated leading beauty specialists’ shares of consumer spending on personal care goods, 2016
                • Online remains small but is growing
                  • Figure 6: Italy: Any online purchases made in the last 12 months, by country, 2007-16
                • The consumer
                  • Who shops for beauty products
                    • Where they shop
                      • Figure 7: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, November 2016
                    • In-store remains more popular than online
                      • Figure 8: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store or online, November 2016
                    • Attitudes to shopping for beauty products
                      • Figure 9: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                      • Using online to engage beauty consumers and drive sales
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • Growing demand for natural and environmentally-friendly beauty products
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                  • Consumer spending on personal care remains weak
                                    • Colour cosmetics set to become the biggest segment
                                      • Pharmacies steal greater share of consumer spending
                                        • Retail sales continue to rise, up 2.8% in 2015
                                        • Spending and Inflation

                                          • General economy
                                            • Consumer spending
                                              • Figure 10: Italy: Consumer spending on personal care goods and services (incl. VAT), 2011-16
                                            • Inflation
                                              • Figure 11: France: Consumer prices of personal care goods and services, Annual % change, 2011-15
                                              • Figure 12: Italy: Consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, Jun 2015-Nov 16
                                              • Figure 13: Italy: Breakdown of consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, Jun 2015-Nov 16
                                          • Product Market Breakdown

                                              • Figure 14: Italy: Main beauty markets, spending (inc VAT), 2011-16
                                              • Figure 15: Italy: Main beauty markets, spending (inc VAT), Forecasts, 2016-20
                                          • Channels of Distribution

                                            • Pharmacies grow in strength
                                              • Figure 16: Italy: Estimated channels of distribution for personal care products, 2013-15
                                            • Grocers continue to dominate
                                              • Figure 17: Italy: Estimated channels of distribution for personal care products, 2015
                                            • Department stores losing share
                                              • Figure 18: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, November 2014/2016
                                          • Sector Size and Forecast

                                            • Specialists’ retail sales rise 2.8% in 2015
                                              • Figure 19: Italy: Health & beauty retailers sales (excl VAT), 2011-16
                                              • Figure 20: Italy: Health & beauty retailers sales, Forecasts, excl VAT, 2016-21
                                          • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                            • Acqua & Sapone’s maintains market leading position
                                              • Tigotá further establishes position in the market
                                                • Specialists enjoy market share gains
                                                  • Online retailing remains underdeveloped
                                                  • Leading Players

                                                    • Acqua & Sapone continues to dominate
                                                        • Figure 21: Italy: Leading beauty specialists, Estimated sales, 2013-16
                                                      • Wycon rapidly expanding store network
                                                        • Figure 22: Italy: Leading beauty specialists, Estimated outlet numbers, 2013-16
                                                      • Sales per outlet
                                                        • Figure 23: Italy: Leading beauty specialists, Sales per outlet, 2013-16
                                                    • Market Shares

                                                      • Consolidation in the specialist beauty market
                                                        • Figure 24: Italy: Estimated leading beauty specialists’ shares of consumer spending on personal care goods, 2016
                                                        • Figure 25: Italy: Leading beauty specialists’ estimated share of consumer spending on personal care goods, 2013-16
                                                    • Online

                                                      • Internet usage
                                                        • Shopping online
                                                          • Figure 26: Italy: Any online purchases made in the last 12 months, by country, 2007-16
                                                          • Figure 27: Italy: Any online purchases made in the last three months, by sector, 2007-16
                                                        • Beauty shopping: In-store vs online
                                                          • Figure 28: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store or online, November 2016
                                                        • Leading online players
                                                          • Figure 29: Italy: Beauty retailers: Transactional websites, January 2016
                                                        • Social media
                                                          • Beauty and personal care social media activities
                                                            • Figure 30: Italy: Beauty and personal care social media activities, 2015
                                                          • Interest in future beauty content on social media
                                                            • Figure 31: Italy: Interest in future beauty content on social media, 2015
                                                        • The Consumer – What you need to know

                                                          • Women drive beauty purchasing
                                                            • Specialist beauty stores attract the most shoppers
                                                              • In-store remains more popular than online
                                                                • Consumers want personal product recommendations
                                                                • Where They Shop for Beauty Products

                                                                  • Women remain the biggest purchasers
                                                                    • Figure 32: Italy: Who shops for beauty products, by age and gender, November 2016
                                                                  • Consumers favour specialist retailers
                                                                    • Figure 33: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, November 2016
                                                                  • Young shoppers show less retailer loyalty
                                                                    • Figure 34: Italy: Repertoire of in-store retailers used, by age, November 2016
                                                                  • Department stores attract affluent consumers
                                                                    • Figure 35: Italy: Profile of those who bought either in-store or online, by type of retailer used, November 2016
                                                                  • Young people drive online beauty purchasing
                                                                    • Figure 36: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store vs online, by age, November 2016
                                                                  • Grocers failing to attract online shoppers
                                                                    • Figure 37: Italy: Where they shop for beauty products, in-store and online, November 2016
                                                                  • Purchasing behaviour
                                                                    • Figure 38: Italy: Women’s purchasing behaviours for facial skincare products, 2016
                                                                • Attitudes to Shopping for Beauty Products

                                                                  • Consumers still prefer to browse and test in-store
                                                                    • Demand for personalised recommendations is high
                                                                      • Figure 39: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products, November 2016
                                                                    • Young shoppers want in-store beauty services
                                                                      • Older Millennials want to customise their beauty products
                                                                        • Figure 40: Italy: Selected attitudes to shopping for beauty products, by age, November 2016
                                                                      • Mature consumers prefer natural products
                                                                        • Figure 41: Italy: Consumer who look for beauty products that are made with natural ingredients, by age, November 2016
                                                                      • Attitudes by where they shop
                                                                        • Figure 42: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for beauty products by where they shop, November 2016
                                                                    • What They Bought

                                                                        • Mass market brands dominate
                                                                          • Figure 43: Italy: Make-up brands bought by women in the last 12 months, by age, 2016
                                                                        • Big demand for fragrance wipes
                                                                          • Figure 44: Italy: Interest in trying fragrance tools or concepts if available, 2016
                                                                      • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                        • Abbreviations
                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                          • Acqua & Sapone

                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                • Product assortment and widespread distribution
                                                                                  • dm-drogerie markt’s planned Italy launch will boost competition
                                                                                    • Online site rich in content, but missing out on online sales
                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                          • Figure 45: Acqua & Sapone: Estimated group sales performance, 2012-16
                                                                                          • Figure 46: Acqua & Sapone: Estimated outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                        • A. S. Watson (Europe)

                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                              • Solid performance
                                                                                                • Service
                                                                                                  • New outlets
                                                                                                    • Marionnaud
                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                        • Marionnaud
                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                              • Figure 47: A. S. Watson (Europe): Group financial performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                              • Figure 48: A. S. Watson (Europe): Outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                              • Continental Europe
                                                                                                                • UK
                                                                                                                • The Body Shop

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • Enrich Not Exploit
                                                                                                                        • Skincare products driving sales
                                                                                                                          • Maximising mobile opportunities
                                                                                                                            • New UK store concept offering an enhanced beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 49: The Body Shop: Retail and consolidated sales, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 50: The Body Shop: Estimated UK sales performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 51: The Body Shop: Estimated outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                                      • Perfumes and fragrances market under pressure
                                                                                                                                        • E-commerce growth
                                                                                                                                          • Private label expansion
                                                                                                                                            • Exclusive brands on the rise
                                                                                                                                              • New store formats
                                                                                                                                                • Growth through acquisitions and store openings
                                                                                                                                                  • Professional beauty potential
                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 52: Douglas Group: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 53: Douglas Group: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                      • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                            • An authentic sensory in-store beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                              • Professional make-up artists’ recommendations bolster quality credentials
                                                                                                                                                                • New smart technology-led store aimed at Millennials
                                                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 54: Kiko Milano: Group sales performance, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 55: Kiko Milano: Estimated outlet data, 2011-16
                                                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                    • Lush Retail

                                                                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                          • Distinctive USP that resonates with the 50% of consumers looking for natural beauty products
                                                                                                                                                                            • Transparency and authenticity
                                                                                                                                                                              • Enhanced store experience
                                                                                                                                                                                • Targeting fresh growth opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Building a global open-source platform to connect its growing online community
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 56: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 57: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Revolutionising the beauty shopping experience…
                                                                                                                                                                                              • …store concepts
                                                                                                                                                                                                • …virtual and augmented reality
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • …mobile
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Beauty-to-go
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • A new way to shop Sephora
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • New social media reward and mobile messaging e-gifting scheme
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 58: LVMH: Selective Retailing sales and estimated Sephora retail sales, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 59: Sephora: Outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Yves Rocher

                                                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Natural beauty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Environmentally-friendly option
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • New app bridging the online and offline experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • New experienced-based retail concept rolled out across more stores
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Rocher Groupe: Estimated group sales performance, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Rocher Groupe: Estimated outlet data, 2011-15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Beauty Retailing - Italy - January 2017

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