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Black Consumers and Haircare - US - August 2015

"Haircare is perhaps one of the largest areas of consumer expenditures among Black consumers. Hair is an important part of Black consumers’ image – it shapes their identity and sends a signal to the world of who they are as a person. With the variety of ways that Black consumers wear their hair come differences in their attitudes toward hair, the products they use, and their general outlook of the beauty category as a whole."
- Tonya Roberts, Multicultural Analyst

This report discusses the following key issues:

  • Relaxers’ loss is styling products’ gain
  • Targeted messaging is critical – Understanding Blacks more important than ever

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
      • Executive Summary

        • The issues
          • Relaxers’ loss is styling products’ gain
            • Figure 1: Total US Black consumer haircare sales, by segment, at current prices, 2013 and 2015
          • Targeted messaging is critical – Understanding Blacks more important than ever
            • Figure 2: Attitudes toward overall appearance, by gender, April 2015
            • Figure 3: Overview of the four Black female haircare segments, April 2015
            • Figure 4: Overview of the three Black male haircare segments, April 2015
          • The opportunities
            • Reevaluate. Innovate. Reinvent
              • Finger on pulse makes perfect
                • What it means
                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                  • Black haircare sales forecast to increase 26% 2015-20
                    • Styling products represent largest share and growth
                      • Relaxer sales continue to decline, healthy hair is symbol of beauty
                      • Market Size and Forecast

                        • Currently $2.7 billion, Black haircare sales could reach more than $4 billion by 2020
                          • Figure 5: Total US Black consumer haircare sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                          • Figure 6: Total US Black consumer haircare sales and forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                      • Market Breakdown

                        • Styling products driving growth – Accounts for twice the share compared with total haircare market sales
                          • Figure 7: Category share of expenditures of black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015
                          • Figure 8: Total US Black consumer haircare sales and forecast, by segment, at current prices, 2010-20
                        • Styling products grew by 26.8% between 2013-2015
                          • Figure 9: Total US Black consumer haircare sales, by segment, at current prices, 2013 and 2015
                        • No surprise…women more likely to use conditioner and styling products
                          • Figure 10: Types of haircare products used, by gender, May 2014
                      • Market Factors

                        • Salon sales, wig, weave and tools a TRUE mystery
                          • Nearly all have bought haircare products from LBSS – An average of $258
                            • Figure 11: Amount spent on haircare products at a local beauty supply store in last six months and average annual amount spent, by gender, April 2015
                          • Trendy Naturalistas, Glam Artists, Trendy Urbane-ites spend big on hair
                            • Figure 12: Average amount spent at local independent beauty supply stores, by haircare segment and gender, April 2015
                          • Half of Blacks bought styling tools, wigs, or weave from LBSS – An average of $210
                            • Figure 13: Amount spent on styling tools at a local beauty supply store in last six months and average annual amount spent, by gender, April 2015
                          • Trendy Urbane-ites spend more on tools and such than any segment – Male or female
                            • Figure 14: Average annual amount spent on styling tools, wigs, weave, etc, by haircare segment and gender, April 2014
                        • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                          • Market saturation means credibility can make or break brands
                            • Green is the new Black…natural hair has sparked growth in more ways
                            • What’s Working?

                              • Ties to African heritage gain credibility
                                • Figure 15: Top Black haircare brands used, by gender, May 2014
                              • Dove Hair’s campaign is inspiring…to some
                                • Figure 16: Consumer reaction to Dove Hair’s Love Your Curls campaign, 2015
                              • MULO expansion of Black haircare products
                                • Alternative relaxed styles and products
                                  • Got weave?
                                  • What’s Struggling?

                                    • Relaxers…it’s time for brands to produce all-natural relaxers
                                      • Mainstream styling products may struggle with believability
                                        • Figure 17: Mainstream versus Black haircare brand usage, by haircare product, May 2014
                                    • What’s Next?

                                      • Color: The bolder the better…natural hair brings on a whole new level of confidence
                                        • As seen on the Tube
                                          • Niche…for Nick and little Nicky
                                          • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                            • Appearances impact overall well-being, hair plays a major role
                                              • Some assembly required…different approaches needed to reach Blacks
                                                  • Figure 18: Black advertising segments for haircare, April 2015
                                                • Seven distinct segments identified – Four female and three male
                                                    • Figure 19: Overview of the four Black female haircare segments, April 2015
                                                    • Figure 20: Overview of the three Black male haircare segments, April 2015
                                                • Attitudes toward Beauty and Grooming

                                                  • Appearance is crucial, first impressions are lasting impressions
                                                    • Figure 21: Attitudes toward overall appearance, by gender, April 2015
                                                • The Role of Hair in Self-Perceptions

                                                  • Hair helps shape identity, women take their time doing it so they’ll look their best
                                                    • Figure 22: Attitudes toward hair, by gender, April 2015
                                                  • Women like trying new products and still searching for perfect brand
                                                    • Figure 23: Attitudes toward haircare products, by gender, April 2015
                                                  • You are what you wear – Blacks’ personality shines through in their style
                                                    • Figure 24: Words Black consumers use to describe their style and personality, April 2015
                                                • Black Consumer Haircare Segments – Overview

                                                  • Seven distinct segments identified, strong implications for brands
                                                      • Figure 25: Distribution of seven Black haircare segments, by gender, April 2015
                                                  • Female Segment 1 – The Trendy Naturalista

                                                    • Trendy Naturalistas – Young, single, culturally connected
                                                      • Figure 26: Trendy Naturalista’s (female) profile, April 2015
                                                    • She lets her natural beauty shine – Inside and out
                                                      • Figure 27: Trendy Naturalista’s (female) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • Living in the moment and a big show off
                                                      • Figure 28: Trendy Naturalista’s (female) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                    • She wants attention…but not too much
                                                      • Figure 29: Trendy Naturalista’s (female) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                  • Female Segment 2 – The Glam Artist

                                                    • Young, Southern belles – Four in 10 are aged 18-24
                                                      • Figure 30: Glam Artist’s (female) profile, April 2015
                                                    • Bodacious and confident – She’s a trendsetter and doesn’t even know it
                                                      • Figure 31: Glam Artist’s (female) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                    • Going natural may be far in the horizon for Glam Artist
                                                      • Figure 32: Glam Artist’s (female) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • She likes variety, and takes her time to get it right
                                                      • Figure 33: Glam Artist’s (female) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                  • Female Segment 3 – Mother Naturale

                                                    • A true lady…mature, seasoned – A silent force to be reckoned with
                                                      • Figure 34: Mother Naturale’s (female) profile, April 2015
                                                    • Healthy hair is important to her, but for different reasons
                                                      • Figure 35: Mother Naturale’s (female) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • She dances to the beat of her own drum…determined, resourceful, independent
                                                      • Figure 36: Mother Naturale’s (female) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                    • She’s conservative, content, and not looking for acceptance
                                                      • Figure 37: Mother Naturale’s (female) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                  • Female Segment 4 – The Functionista

                                                    • Functionistas reside on West coast primarily, less urban area
                                                      • Figure 38: Functionista’s (female) profile, April 2015
                                                    • Natural hair isn’t a goal. It’s all about convenience
                                                      • Figure 39: Functionista’s (female) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • Functionistas keep it simple and understated
                                                      • Figure 40: Functionista’s (female) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                    • She’s not a show off. Staying on trend isn’t important
                                                      • Figure 41: Functionista’s (female) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                  • Male Segment 1 – The Trendy Urbane-ite

                                                    • Young, urban and successful
                                                      • Figure 42: Trendy Urbane-ite’s (male) profile, April 2015
                                                    • A trendsetter – Impeccable, natural, image-conscious and likes to stand out
                                                      • Figure 43: Trendy Urbane-ite’s (male) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                      • Figure 44: Trendy Urbane-ite’s (male) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                      • Figure 45: Trendy Urbane-ite’s (male) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                  • Male Segment 2 – The Natural Class-icon

                                                    • Mature and single…this guy believes healthy lifestyle is his biggest asset
                                                      • Figure 46: The Natural Class-icon’s (male) profile, April 2015
                                                      • Figure 47: Natural Class-icon’s attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • This man is classic – His style is iconic and conservative
                                                      • Figure 48: Natural Class-icon’s (male) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                    • The average Joe on the surface – Hair isn’t part of his identity
                                                      • Figure 49: Natural Class-icon’s (male) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                  • Male Segment 3 – The Reinventionist

                                                    • Young, southern and potentially very powerful in more ways than one
                                                      • Figure 50: Reinventionist’s (male) profile, April 2015
                                                    • Reinventionists are adventurous and stand out – Being natural not a priority
                                                      • Figure 51: Reinventionist’s (male) attitudes toward natural hair, April 2015
                                                    • This guy has a very carefree attitude about his appearance and hair
                                                      • Figure 52: Reinventionist’s (male) attitudes toward keeping up with hair trends, April 2015
                                                    • A switch up artist…always reinventing his look
                                                      • Figure 53: Reinventionist’s (male) attitudes toward hairstyles, April 2015
                                                  • Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                    • Data sources
                                                      • Sales data
                                                        • Fan chart forecast
                                                          • Consumer survey data
                                                            • Abbreviations and terms
                                                              • Abbreviations
                                                              • Appendix – Market

                                                                • Total
                                                                  • Figure 54: Total US Black consumer haircare sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 55: Total US Black consumer haircare sales, by segment, at current prices, 2013 and 2015
                                                                • Styling products
                                                                  • Figure 56: US Black consumer styling product sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 57: US Black consumer styling product sales and forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 58: US Black consumer styling product sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20
                                                                • Relaxers
                                                                  • Figure 59: US Black consumer relaxer sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 60: US Black consumer relaxer sales and forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 61: US Black consumer relaxer sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20
                                                                • Shampoo
                                                                  • Figure 62: US Black consumer shampoo sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 63: US Black consumer shampoo sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 64: US Black consumer shampoo sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20
                                                                • Conditioner
                                                                  • Figure 65: US Black consumer conditioner sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 66: US Black consumer conditioner sales and forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 67: US Black consumer conditioner sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20
                                                                • Hair color
                                                                  • Figure 68: US Black consumer hair color sales and fan chart forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 69: US Black consumer hair color sales and forecast, at current prices, 2010-20
                                                                  • Figure 70: US Black consumer hair color sales and forecast, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2010-20

                                                              Companies Covered

                                                              • Walmart Stores (USA)

                                                              Black Consumers and Haircare - US - August 2015

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