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Black Haircare - US - August 2010

Historically, black consumers have shopped at hair salons and beauty supply stores for their haircare needs. While that is still the case for a large number of shoppers, given the state of the economy, many black consumers are taking a closer look at FDMx outlets, which tend to offer better pricing. The black haircare market consists of only those haircare products specifically formulated for and marketed to black consumers. This report includes FDMx sales of such products from 2005-09 with forecasts for 2010-15. As with other products in the personal care industry— value perceptions and wellness are key drivers in influencing black haircare purchasing habits. This report explores these aspects of the market as well as others including:

  • The impact of the recession and overall challenging economic times on the black haircare market
  • How hair styling trends are specifically affecting segment and regional sales
  • What types of products are used with relaxer kits
  • How FDMx retailers are faring with other outlets that participate in black haircare sales
  • How new products are being positioned to meet consumers’ needs.
  • The percentage of black respondents who use only black haircare products
  • What products and brands are performing well in the black haircare market
  • How product usage differs by gender, age and other demographic characteristics among black respondents and what kind of implications this may have on the overall market.

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Table of contents

  1. Scope and Themes

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
        • Data sources and methodology
          • Sales data
            • Consumer survey data
              • Advertising creative
                • Abbreviations and terms
                  • Abbreviations
                    • Terms
                    • Executive Summary

                      • Market at a glance
                        • Mainstream marketers dominate black haircare category
                          • The black population—growing faster than average
                            • Black retail outlets used when shopping for haircare products
                              • Diversity among blacks calls for targeted marketing strategies
                                • The growing young black adult population
                                  • Regional differences
                                    • Brands
                                      • Innovation driven by claims for purity, premium and ethical positioning
                                        • The black haircare consumer
                                          • Demographics’ role in buying behavior
                                          • Insights and Opportunities

                                            • Fund research at HBC to develop healthy haircare products
                                              • Satin covers to protect hair
                                                • Promote products based on hair thickness
                                                  • Black infants and toddlers need haircare products too
                                                    • L’Oréal USA: The scientific innovator
                                                    • Inspire Insights

                                                        • Trend: Transparency
                                                          • What’s it about?
                                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • Black haircare products report slight decline as tight economy hurts sales
                                                                • Increased mass market distribution may win more volume
                                                                  • Sales and forecast of market
                                                                    • Figure 1: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare products, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                    • Figure 2: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2005-15
                                                                • Market Drivers

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • The black population
                                                                      • Figure 3: U.S. population, by race and Hispanic origin, 2005-15
                                                                    • Blacks spend a higher percentage of income on personal care
                                                                      • Figure 4: Average annual expenditures on food, household and personal care products, by race, 2008
                                                                      • Figure 5: U.S. buying power, by race, 2000-13
                                                                      • Figure 6: Top 10 states, by black purchasing power, 2008
                                                                  • Competitive Context

                                                                    • Haircare products sold outside the FDMx market threaten sales
                                                                      • Figure 7: Where black haircare products are purchased, by household income, May 2010
                                                                    • Hair salons
                                                                      • Online shopping
                                                                        • Wigs and weaves
                                                                          • Health and safety of relaxers
                                                                          • Segment Performance

                                                                            • Key points
                                                                              • Black women keep using at-home hair color despite losses elsewhere
                                                                                • Sales of black haircare products by segment
                                                                                  • Figure 8: FDMx sales of black haircare products, by segment, 2008 and 2010
                                                                                  • Figure 9: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare, at current prices, by segment, 2005-15
                                                                              • Segment Performance—Shampoo/Conditioner

                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                  • Shampoo/conditioner sales continue to decline
                                                                                    • Black males’ cropped styles hamper sales
                                                                                      • Sales and forecast of shampoo/conditioners
                                                                                        • Figure 10: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare, shampoo/conditioners, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                                    • Segment Performance—Styling Products

                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                        • FDMx slow to compete with other outlets
                                                                                          • Target bringing natural black haircare products to FDMx
                                                                                            • Figure 11: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare, styling products, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                                        • Segment Performance—Relaxer Kits

                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                            • Relaxers suffer from health and safety concerns
                                                                                              • Sales and forecast
                                                                                                • Figure 12: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare, relaxer kits, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                                            • Segment Performance—Hair Color

                                                                                              • Key point
                                                                                                • Hair color sales decline
                                                                                                  • Sales and forecast
                                                                                                    • Figure 13: FDMx sales and forecast of black haircare, hair color, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                                                • Retail Channels

                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                    • Drug channel still reigns
                                                                                                      • Figure 14: U.S. FDMx sales of black haircare products, by retail channel, 2008 and 2010
                                                                                                  • Leading Companies

                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                      • Large CPG companies dominate the industry
                                                                                                        • Company sales
                                                                                                          • Figure 15: FDMx black haircare sales of leading companies, 2009 and 2010
                                                                                                      • Shampoo/Conditioner

                                                                                                        • Key point
                                                                                                          • Namasté Laboratories’ Organic Root Stimulator overtakes Alberto-Culver as leading brand
                                                                                                            • Market leaders struggled to compete on consumers desire natural products
                                                                                                              • Figure 16: FDMx manufacturer brand sales of black-targeted shampoo/conditioner in the U.S., 2009 and 2010
                                                                                                          • Styling Products

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Fantasia’s holding its own in down market
                                                                                                                • Namasté’s success with organic ingredients carries over to styling products
                                                                                                                  • Figure 17: FDMx manufacturer brand sales of styling products in the U.S., 2009 and 2010
                                                                                                              • Relaxer Kits

                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                  • Organic positioning wins share from traditional formulations
                                                                                                                    • Luster Products creates its own niche with touch-up relaxer
                                                                                                                      • Figure 18: FDMx manufacturer brand sales of relaxer kits in the U.S., 2009 and 2010
                                                                                                                  • Hair Coloring

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • Economy hurt hair color sales
                                                                                                                        • Figure 19: FDMx manufacturer brand sales of black hair coloring in the U.S., 2009 and 2010
                                                                                                                    • Brand Qualities

                                                                                                                        • Target: Wooing black haircare consumers with natural styling and natural ingredients
                                                                                                                          • Shea Moisture: A natural haircare product innovator
                                                                                                                            • Miss Jessie’s blazing the trail in education and styling black women’s hair
                                                                                                                            • Innovation and Innovators

                                                                                                                                • Figure 20: Number of new ethnic haircare product introductions in U.S., 2005-10
                                                                                                                                • Figure 21: Top 10 claims in the U.S. for haircare products for ethnic consumers, 2005-10
                                                                                                                              • Purity claims
                                                                                                                                • Moisturizing
                                                                                                                                  • Vitamin/mineral-fortified
                                                                                                                                    • Trends in hair straighteners from Japan
                                                                                                                                    • Marketing Strategies

                                                                                                                                      • Gaining interest with botanical ingredients
                                                                                                                                        • Dark and Lovely No Lye Relaxer with shea butter
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 22: Dark and Lovely No Lye Relaxer, TV ad, 2009
                                                                                                                                        • Soft & Beautiful Just For Me Hair Milk
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 23: Soft & Beautiful Just For Me Hair Milk, TV ad, 2010
                                                                                                                                        • Organic Root Stimulator—nature's secret to healthy hair
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 24: Organic Root Stimulator (Multi-Products), TV ad, 2010
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 25: Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil, TV ad, 2010
                                                                                                                                        • Addressing black women’s desire for smooth straight hair
                                                                                                                                          • Luster's Pink Smooth Touch Relaxer—get used to the attention
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 26: Luster's Pink Smooth Touch Relaxer, TV ad, 2010
                                                                                                                                          • Motions
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 27: Motions Silkening Shine Relaxer, TV ad, 2010
                                                                                                                                        • Usage of Black Haircare Products

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                            • Overall use of haircare products
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 28: Usage of hair products, by gender, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Frequency of product usage in last seven days
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 29: Mean number of products used in last seven days, by product, by gender, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Frequency of relaxer and color usage by women in last 12 months
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 30: Mean number of products used in last 12 months—hair color and relaxers, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Permanent/relaxer brands used
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 31: Relaxer brands used, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Types of permanent/relaxer brands used
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 32: Forms of relaxer used, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Hair color brands used
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 33: Hair color brands used, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                          • Purchasing Habits and Product Attitudes

                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Purchase behavior, source of products and incidence of at-home styling
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 34: Purchasing habits related to black haircare products, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 35: Purchasing habits related to black haircare products, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Source of purchase
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 36: Where black haircare products are purchased, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Incidence of at-home treatment/styling
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 37: Frequency of at-home treatment or styling services—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Purchasing factors for black haircare products
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 38: Factors considered before purchase, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                            • Patronage of Professional Haircare Services

                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                • Frequency of professional haircare services
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 39: Frequency of professional haircare services—women, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                • Frequency of at-home treatment or styling
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 40: Frequency of at-home treatment or styling services—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                • Frequency of relaxer treatments
                                                                                                                                                  • At home
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 41: Frequency of relaxer treatments at home—women, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                  • Professionally
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 42: Frequency of relaxer treatments professionally—women, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                  • Where respondents relax their hair
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 43: Prevalence of having hair relaxed at home or professionally—women, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                • Maintaining Hair After Treatment and Hair Styling Methods

                                                                                                                                                  • Key point
                                                                                                                                                    • Aftercare treatments
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 44: Choice of aftercare treatments—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                    • Hair styling methods
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 45: Hairstyle choices—women, by household income, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 46: Hairstyle choices—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                  • Custom Consumer Groups—Regional Differences

                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                      • Attitudes and purchasing habits in black community impacted by region
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 47: Where black haircare products are purchased, by region, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 48: Hairstyle choices—women, by region, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 49: Relaxer brands used—women, by region, November 2008-December 2009
                                                                                                                                                      • Cluster Analysis

                                                                                                                                                          • The Plain Relaxed
                                                                                                                                                            • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                              • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                                  • Varieties
                                                                                                                                                                    • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                                      • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                        • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                                          • The Productized
                                                                                                                                                                            • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                                              • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Cluster characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: Black haircare clusters—women, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 51: Haircare products currently used—women, by black haircare clusters, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 52: Attitudes towards hair styling products—women, by black haircare clusters, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 53: Hairstyle choices—women, by black haircare clusters, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Cluster demographics
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 54: Black haircare clusters—women, by age group, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 55: Black haircare clusters—women, by household income group, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Cluster methodology
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix: Other Useful Consumer Tables

                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 56: Factors considered before purchase, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Frequency of professional haircare services
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 57: Frequency of professional haircare services—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                      • At home
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 58: Frequency of relaxer treatments at home—women, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 59: Frequency of relaxer treatments professionally, by age, May 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix: Trade Associations

                                                                                                                                                                                      Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                      • Alberto-Culver USA Inc
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Aveda
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Black Owner Beauty Supply Association
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Inc. (ICMAD)
                                                                                                                                                                                      • J Strickland & Co Inc
                                                                                                                                                                                      • L'Oréal USA
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Luster Products Co.
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Macy's, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Namasté Laboratories Llc
                                                                                                                                                                                      • National Beauty Culturists' League, Inc. (NBCL)
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Procter & Gamble Company (The)
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Procter & Gamble USA
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Schwarzkopf & Henkel
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC)
                                                                                                                                                                                      • SoftSheen Carson
                                                                                                                                                                                      • U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics
                                                                                                                                                                                      • US Department of Commerce
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Walgreen Co
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Walmart Stores (USA)

                                                                                                                                                                                      Black Haircare - US - August 2010

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