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Black Haircare - US - August 2011

  • What other consumers purchase black hair care products and is there scope for manufacturers to reach out to consumers from other backgrounds (eg those with curly hair)?
  • Can marketers remove negativity surrounding the state of their target demographics hair to make the hair care experience more enjoyable?
  • What opportunity is there to reach men and encourage product usage?

This report builds on the analysis presented in Mintel’s Black Haircare—U.S., August 2010, as well as the analysis presented in Mintel’s Black Haircare—U.S., August 2009, June 2007 and June 2005.

This report covers haircare products designed and marketed specifically for Black consumers. These products include:

  • shampoos/conditioners
  • hair relaxers/relaxer kits
  • styling products like oil moisturizers, pomades, polishers, and shining agents
  • hair color.

Excluded from the scope of this report are sales of haircare products marketed exclusively to other ethnic consumers (such as Hispanics). Also excluded are wigs, hairpieces, hair extensions, weaves, and hairstyling appliances.

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Table of contents

  1. Scope and Themes

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
        • Data sources
          • Sales data
            • Consumer survey data
              • Consumer Expenditure Survey
                • Advertising creative
                  • Abbreviations and terms
                    • Abbreviations
                      • Terms
                        • Definitions
                        • Executive Summary

                          • Category overview
                            • Slow economic recovery hampers growth
                              • Hairstyles are changing
                                • Drug stores face increasing competition from within and without
                                  • L’Oréal is market leader, but “other” group tells growth story
                                    • The power of the little guy
                                      • Key findings from Mintel’s consumer research
                                      • Insights and Opportunities

                                        • Take it to YouTube
                                          • Recognize that not all shoppers for Black haircare products will be Black
                                            • Manufacturers will need to reach out to curly-haired people of all backgrounds
                                              • Work to remove the stigma attached to kinky hair
                                                • What women want to know
                                                  • Go beyond damage repair to growth
                                                    • Don’t forget men
                                                    • Inspire Insights

                                                        • Trend: “A Simple Balance for Health”
                                                          • Trend: “Green Technology”
                                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • 2011 marks a period of recovery
                                                                • Sales and forecast of Black haircare products
                                                                  • Figure 1: FDMx sales and forecast of Black haircare products, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                  • Figure 2: FDMX sales and forecast of Black haircare products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2006-16
                                                                • Fan chart forecast
                                                                    • Figure 3: FDMx sales and fan chart forecast of Black haircare products, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                • Market Drivers

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • There’s bad news … and there’s more bad news
                                                                      • Figure 4: National seasonally adjusted unemployment rates, by race/Hispanic origin, June 2010-June 2011
                                                                    • Personal care expenditures down slightly among Black consumer units
                                                                      • Figure 5: Average annual expenditures—Black CUs, by expenditure category, 2002-10
                                                                    • Hairstyle trends are changing
                                                                      • Figure 6: Hairstyles worn by Black women, May 2010 vs. April 2011
                                                                  • Competitive Context

                                                                    • Ethnic haircare products are important to Black consumers
                                                                      • Figure 7: Use of ethnic personal care products, by gender, October 2010
                                                                    • Consumers asking for more from traditional Black haircare products
                                                                      • Haircare products sold outside of FDMx threaten sales
                                                                        • Figure 8: Where haircare products are bought, by gender, April 2011
                                                                    • Segment Performance

                                                                      • Key points
                                                                        • Styling products overtake shampoo/conditioners
                                                                          • Figure 9: FDMx sales of Black haircare products, by type, 2009 and 2011
                                                                      • Segment Performance—Styling Products

                                                                        • Key points
                                                                          • Natural hair requires styling products
                                                                            • Sales and forecast of styling products
                                                                              • Figure 10: FDMx sales and forecast of styling products, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                          • Segment Performance—Shampoo and Conditioner

                                                                            • Key points
                                                                              • Shampoo/conditioner sales level out in 2011
                                                                                • Sales and forecast of shampoo and conditioner
                                                                                  • Figure 11: FDMx sales and forecast of shampoo and conditioner, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                              • Segment Performance—Relaxer Kits

                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                  • Relaxers take a hit as hairstyles change
                                                                                    • Sales and forecast of relaxer kits
                                                                                      • Figure 12: FDMx sales and forecast of relaxer kits, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                                  • Segment Performance—Hair Color

                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                      • Hair color sales on the rise
                                                                                        • Sales and forecast of hair color
                                                                                          • Figure 13: FDMx sales and forecast of hair color, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                                      • Retail Channels

                                                                                        • Drug stores lose share to other channels
                                                                                          • FDMx becoming stiffer competition for beauty supply stores
                                                                                            • Black haircare aisle becomes multiethnic haircare aisle?
                                                                                              • Figure 14: FDMx sales of Black haircare products, by retail channel, 2009 and 2011
                                                                                          • Retail Channels—Drug stores

                                                                                            • Drug stores losing share to mass merchandisers
                                                                                              • Walgreens offers its own brand, partners with manufacturers
                                                                                                • Figure 15: FDMx drug store sales of Black haircare products, at current prices, 2006-11
                                                                                            • Retail Channels—All Other FDMx Channels

                                                                                              • Market share gains by “other” channels fueled by mass merchandisers
                                                                                                  • Figure 16: All other FDMx channel sales of Black haircare products, at current prices, 2006-11
                                                                                              • Leading Companies

                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                  • Top five companies lose share
                                                                                                    • The power of the little guy
                                                                                                      • Figure 17: Manufacturer sales of Black haircare products at FDMx, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                  • Brand Share—Styling Products

                                                                                                    • Fantasia leads the styling products segment, but loses share
                                                                                                      • “Other” companies gain nearly eight share points
                                                                                                        • Figure 18: Selected brand sales and market share of styling products at FDMx, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                    • Brand Share—Shampoo and Conditioner

                                                                                                      • Namasté leads segment sales
                                                                                                        • Figure 19: Selected brand sales and market share of shampoo and conditioner at FDMx, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                    • Brand Share—Relaxer Kits

                                                                                                      • Relaxer sales down across brands
                                                                                                        • Figure 20: Selected brand sales and market share of relaxer kits at FDMx, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                    • Brand Share—Hair Color

                                                                                                      • Ailing economy likely boosted hair color sales
                                                                                                        • Figure 21: Selected brand sales and market share of hair color at FDMx, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                    • Innovations and Innovators

                                                                                                      • Deep conditioners most popular new products
                                                                                                        • Figure 22: U.S. new product introductions in Black haircare, by subcategory, 2006-11
                                                                                                      • Ethical claims rise significantly
                                                                                                          • Figure 23: U.S. new Black haircare product introductions, by top claims, 2005-11
                                                                                                          • Figure 24: Types of ethical claim made in U.S. new Black haircare product introductions, 2010-11
                                                                                                        • Products for babies
                                                                                                          • What’s old is new
                                                                                                          • Marketing Strategies

                                                                                                            • Overall brand landscape
                                                                                                              • Advertising review
                                                                                                                • Dark and Lovely Healthy Gloss 5 Relaxer
                                                                                                                  • Figure 25: Dark and Lovely, Healthy Gloss 5 relaxer, 2011
                                                                                                                • Pink Smooth Touch Olive Oil Relaxer
                                                                                                                  • Figure 26: Pink Smooth Touch Relaxer with Olive Oil, 2010
                                                                                                                • Motions Relaxer
                                                                                                                  • Figure 27: Motions Silkening Shine Relaxer, 2011
                                                                                                                • Organic Root Stimulator
                                                                                                                  • Figure 28: Organic Root Stimulator, 2011
                                                                                                                  • Figure 29: Organic Root Stimulator, 2011
                                                                                                                • Websites and social media
                                                                                                                  • Dark and Lovely (SoftSheen-Carson)
                                                                                                                    • Roots of Nature (SoftSheen-Carson)
                                                                                                                      • Optimum (SoftSheen-Carson)
                                                                                                                        • Organic Root Stimulator (Namasté Laboratories)
                                                                                                                          • Pink Smooth Touch (Luster Products)
                                                                                                                            • SheaMoisture (Sundial Brands)
                                                                                                                              • Miss Jessie’s
                                                                                                                              • Haircare Products Used

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • Shampoo and conditioner most commonly used products
                                                                                                                                    • Relaxer use drops off with age
                                                                                                                                      • Incidence of hair color use significantly higher among $75K+
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 30: Haircare products used, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                      • Most women wash and condition hair at least once a week
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 31: How frequently haircare products are used, Black women, April 2011
                                                                                                                                      • 25-34s seek a wide variety of ingredients in their haircare products
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 32: Ingredients sought in haircare products, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                      • Women want the same things in their haircare products, regardless of income
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 33: Ingredients sought in haircare products, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                    • Where Haircare Products are Purchased

                                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                                        • Beauty supply stores are tops with haircare shoppers
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 34: Where Black women buy haircare products, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                        • Where black women buy haircare products, by household income
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 35: Where Black women buy haircare products, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                      • Haircare Purchase Habits and Opinions

                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                          • Most Black women are brand loyal, but those brands aren’t necessarily Black-specific
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 36: Haircare purchase and use habits, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                          • Women aged 25-34 prefer nontraditional sources of information on haircare products
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 37: Sources of information on haircare products, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                          • Hair, confidence, and image are intertwined for Black women
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 38: How hair impacts image and confidence, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                          • As income rises, so does importance of hairstyling
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 39: How hair impacts image and confidence, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                        • Salon Visits vs. At-home Care

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                            • One in five women say they never visit a salon
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 40: Frequency of having hair done professionally vs. having it done at home, Black women, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Older women twice as likely to never have hair done professionally
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 41: Frequency of having hair done professionally, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Frequency of salon visits rises with income
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 42: Frequency of having hair done professionally, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Women aged 55+ also most likely to never style their hair at home
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 43: Frequency of doing hair at home, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Affluent women more likely to care for their hair once a week
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 44: Frequency of doing hair at home, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Younger women more likely to only relax their hair at home; older women more likely to not relax their hair at all
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 45: Where relaxers are done, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Women in lowest income group more likely to only relax at home
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 46: Where relaxers are done, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                          • How Economy Has Impacted Haircare Purchases

                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Majority say haircare purchases not affected by economy
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 47: How economy has impacted purchase of haircare products, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                              • Going natural to save money
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 48: How economy has impacted purchase of haircare products, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                              • Salon routine remains unchanged for more than half
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 49: How economy has impacted salon visits, Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 50: How economy has impacted salon visits, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Black Men and Haircare

                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                • Opportunity exists in increasing use of hair moisturizers, oils, and pomades
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 51: How frequently haircare products are used, Black men, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 52: How frequently haircare products are used, Black men, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                • Walmart is men’s top destination for haircare products
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 53: Where Black men buy haircare products, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                • Younger men have favorite products, but are open to trial
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 54: Haircare purchase and use habits, Black men, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                • Nearly half of men say they don’t have their hair done at all
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 55: Frequency of having hair done professionally vs. having it done at home, Black men, April 2011
                                                                                                                                              • Cluster Analysis

                                                                                                                                                  • Unrelaxed and Unstyled
                                                                                                                                                    • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                      • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                        • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                          • Professional Budgeters
                                                                                                                                                            • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                              • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                                • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                                  • Salonless Spenders
                                                                                                                                                                    • Characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                      • Demographics
                                                                                                                                                                        • Opportunity
                                                                                                                                                                          • Cluster characteristic tables
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 56: Black haircare clusters, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 57: Opinion on haircare products, by Black haircare clusters, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: How often hair done professionally/treated at home, by Black haircare clusters, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Attitude toward relaxing users hair, by Black haircare clusters, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 60: Influence of the economy on haircare, by Black haircare clusters, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Cluster demographic tables
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 61: Black haircare clusters, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 62: Black haircare clusters, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 63: Black haircare clusters, by Hispanic origin, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Cluster methodology
                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix—Other Useful Consumer Tables

                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 64: Hairstyles worn in the last six months by Black women, by age, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 65: Haircare purchase and use habits, by gender, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 66: Haircare purchase and use habits, Black women, by household income, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 67: Haircare purchase and use habits, by gender, April 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix—Trade Associations

                                                                                                                                                                            Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                            • Alberto-Culver Company
                                                                                                                                                                            • American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI)
                                                                                                                                                                            • Colomer
                                                                                                                                                                            • Food and Drug Administration
                                                                                                                                                                            • Food Products Association
                                                                                                                                                                            • Google, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                            • Grocery Manufacturers of America
                                                                                                                                                                            • Grocery Manufacturers of America (GMA)
                                                                                                                                                                            • Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Inc. (ICMAD)
                                                                                                                                                                            • L'Oréal USA
                                                                                                                                                                            • Luster Products Co.
                                                                                                                                                                            • Mary Kay Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                            • Namasté Laboratories Llc
                                                                                                                                                                            • National Association of Chain Drug Stores (NACDS)
                                                                                                                                                                            • Personal Care Products Council
                                                                                                                                                                            • Procter & Gamble Company (The)
                                                                                                                                                                            • Procter & Gamble USA
                                                                                                                                                                            • Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC)
                                                                                                                                                                            • SoftSheen Carson
                                                                                                                                                                            • Target Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                            • U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics
                                                                                                                                                                            • Unilever USA
                                                                                                                                                                            • Walgreen Co
                                                                                                                                                                            • Walmart Stores (USA)

                                                                                                                                                                            Black Haircare - US - August 2011

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