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Black Haircare - US - August 2016

"The Black haircare market is experiencing soft sales similar to mainstream haircare. Estimated 2016 expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products are about $2.5 billion as Black consumers flock to brands that cater to their specific haircare needs. Despite soft sales, several brands are making inroads within the category with premium priced products sold within traditional retail outlets. Meanwhile, major mainstream and targeted brands are moving toward the center with multicultural positioning, presumably to increase market share among White and Hispanic consumers as a natural and healthy alternative. As Black consumers, and especially women, learn to style their hair on their own and grow comfortable with the versatility of their texture, brands that deliver on treatment and styling claims will win."

- Toya Mitchell, Multicultural Analyst

This report will cover the followings areas:

  • Natural ingredients are the "greens fees" for product purchase and usage
  • Social media and WOM drive product use, hair maintenance routine, education
  • Regimen product lines based on specific hair challenges, styling choices, texture growing in prominence
  • Wearing a variety of styles can damage hair; products promising hair health resonate
  • Millennials and Boomers adopting natural styles
  • Relaxer sales are falling, innovation is not saving the category
  • Consumers perceive Black-targeted hair brands shifting to multicultural positioning
  • Basic maintenance creates the canvas for styling versatility

This Report covers haircare products that are formulated specifically for or marketed to Black consumers, as well as general market haircare products that are purchased by Black consumers.

The following categories are covered:

  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner
  • Styling products, including hair spray
  • Relaxers
  • Home hair color

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
      • Executive Summary

          • Figure 1: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2011-16
        • The issues
          • Natural ingredients are the “greens fees” for product purchase and usage
            • Figure 2: Ingredient claims within Black haircare products, July 2011-July 2016
          • Social media and WOM drive product use, hair maintenance routine, education
            • Regimen product lines based on specific hair challenges, styling choices, texture growing in prominence
              • Figure 3: MULO sales of Black haircare products, by leading companies, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
            • Wearing a variety of styles can damage hair; products promising hair health resonate
              • Figure 4: Hairstyles worn in the past year – Nets, by number of styles worn, April 2016
              • Figure 5: KeraCare, Coconut & Monoi Quenchers, print ad, October 2015
            • Millennials and Boomers adopting natural styles
              • Figure 6: Hairstyles worn in the past year – Natural (Net) and relaxed, by generation, April 2016
            • Relaxer sales are falling, innovation is not saving the category
              • Figure 7: Expenditures by Black consumers for at-home relaxers, 2011-16
            • Consumers perceive Black-targeted hair brands shifting to multicultural positioning
              • Figure 8: SheaMoisture, print ad, October 2015
            • Basic maintenance creates the canvas for styling versatility
              • Figure 9: Haircare regimen – Shampoo, condition, style, by gender, April 2016
            • The opportunities
              • Demonstrate efficacy, results and push advocacy within product messaging and consumer engagement
                • Regimen messaging featuring “cocktail” product options for women seeking versatility
                  • Figure 10: Reasons for using haircare products, by hairstyles worn in the past year – Nets, April 2016
                • In store point-of-purchase displays to direct shoppers by hair condition or treatment
                  • Expand product offerings, especially for natural hair within dollar stores
                    • Figure 11: Where haircare products are purchased, by gender, April 2016
                  • Offer alternative uses for the same product to maximize use regardless of style
                    • Ensure realistic representation messaging across all hair textures and length
                      • Figure 12: Cantu, African Pride, Revlon/Colomer – Creme of Nature, print ads, October 2015
                    • Black consumers driving new business strategies across independent and mainstream players
                      • What it means
                      • The Market – What You Need to Know

                        • Black haircare grows modestly
                          • Natural ingredient infusions are not saving home relaxer sales’ free fall
                            • Category growth shifting from styling to shampoo/conditioner products
                            • Market Size and Forecast

                              • Black haircare to grow at same pace as mainstream haircare
                                • Figure 13: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2011-16
                                • Figure 14: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2011-16
                            • Market Breakdown

                              • Innovation within base maintenance products drive sales
                                • Figure 15: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2014 and 2016
                                • Figure 16: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2011-21
                              • Shampoo sales show steady increase
                                • Figure 17: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2011-16
                              • Conditioners are on a similar, but more positive path
                                • Figure 18: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at current prices, 2011-16
                              • Relaxers continue to decline
                                • Figure 19: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2011-16
                              • Styling products growth to pick up
                                • Figure 20: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2011-16
                              • Hair color to fall slightly
                                • Figure 21: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2011-16
                            • Market Factors

                              • New niche and independent players geared toward natural bypass traditional outlets
                                • Higher price points for natural products not a deterrent for Black shoppers
                                  • Figure 22: SheaMoisture and Pantene price points, May 2014-May 2016
                                • Private equity firm chooses a Black brand as their sole haircare brand within their portfolio
                                • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                  • Category sales growth powered by new regimen-focused lines for naturals
                                    • Natural products are the new standard
                                      • Black brands are encroaching on mainstream brands
                                        • Independent players are the new frontier for private investment
                                        • Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products

                                          • “Natural” haircare lines surge in expenditures YOY
                                              • Figure 23: MULO sales of Black haircare products by leading companies, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                          • Breakdown of Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products

                                            • Regimen product sales are brisk and the main category drivers
                                              • Figure 24: MULO sales of Black haircare products, by segment, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                            • Shampoo, conditioners are the new battlefield for Black haircare sales
                                              • Figure 25: MULO sales of Black shampoo, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                              • Figure 26: MULO sales of Black shampoo, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                            • Styling products remain the anchor for Black consumers
                                              • Figure 27: MULO sales of Black styling products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                            • Novelty hair color is the current trend, sales suggest cannibalization
                                              • Figure 28: MULO sales of Black hair color products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                            • Traditional no-lye relaxers are past maturity in the product cycle and will continue to slide
                                              • Figure 29: MULO sales of Black hair relaxers, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                          • What’s Working?

                                            • Base maintenance products specifically for Black hair
                                              • Natural ingredients within products that address dryness
                                                • Expanded distribution in traditional retail outlets
                                                  • 2016 will see the first $100 million dollar brand
                                                    • Figure 30: SheaMoisture: Break the Walls #BREAKTHEWALLS, April 2016
                                                  • Realistic representation within communication to Black consumers
                                                    • Carol’s Daughter poised to reach ethnicities beyond Black women
                                                    • What’s Struggling?

                                                      • Relaxer sales continue to drag legacy brands
                                                        • Chemically-laden base and styling products are seen as harmful
                                                        • What’s Next?

                                                          • Natural moisturizing-based products will continue to flourish
                                                            • Figure 31: Natural moisturizer product launches among leading Black haircare brands, July 2011-June 2016
                                                            • Figure 32: Natural moisturizer product launches – rolling years, July 2011-June 2016
                                                          • “Texlaxing” and at-home Keratin, Brazilian treatments making gains
                                                            • Natural and temporary straighteners slowly replace no-lye relaxers
                                                              • Increased number of products for protective and transitioning hairstyles
                                                              • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                • Haircare attitudinal segments drive product selection and usage
                                                                  • Hairstyle versatility is the new normal, especially for Black women
                                                                    • Do-it-yourself maintenance and styling is the domain of natural hair
                                                                      • Product selection and usage driven by expected efficacy
                                                                        • Overcoming dryness and related issues is the #1 hair challenge
                                                                          • Physical retail outlets continue to dominate haircare purchases
                                                                          • Black Consumer Haircare Segments: Overview

                                                                              • Mintel-defined segments synthesize hair attitudes and behavior into personas
                                                                                  • Figure 33: Overview of the four Black female haircare segments, April 2016
                                                                                  • Figure 34: Overview of the three Black male haircare segments, April 2016
                                                                              • Black Hair Texture Categorization

                                                                                  • Self-perception, heredity, shape Black hair texture categorization
                                                                                    • Figure 35: Natural hair texture categories
                                                                                    • Figure 36: Natural hair texture, April 2016
                                                                                    • Figure 37: Natural hair texture, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                • Black Hairstyles Worn in the Last 12 Months

                                                                                    • Natural hairstyles are the dominant choice for Black adults
                                                                                      • Figure 38: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months, April 2016
                                                                                    • Hairstyle choice based on preference instead of texture
                                                                                      • Figure 39: Natural hair texture, by hairstyle, April 2016
                                                                                    • Natural hairstyles staying power has shifted from a fad to a way of life
                                                                                      • Figure 40: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Nets, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                      • Figure 41: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Details, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                    • Desire to set trends drive style choice and variability
                                                                                        • Figure 42: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Nets, by haircare segments, April 2016
                                                                                    • Black Haircare Products Used at Home

                                                                                        • Basic home maintenance is widespread, but abstinence from chemical treatments at home runs across all style choices
                                                                                            • Figure 43: Haircare products used in the last 12 Months – Detail by gender, April 2016
                                                                                          • Desired hair results determine product usage
                                                                                            • Figure 44: Hair products used, by reasons for using haircare products, April 2016
                                                                                          • Relaxed and color hairstyle wearers use at-home hair products more than natural hair wearers
                                                                                            • Some natural hairstyle wearers are open to using mild chemical treatments at home
                                                                                              • Figure 45: Haircare products used in the last 12 months – Nets, by hairstyle, April 2016
                                                                                            • Hair texture and style determine at-home styling and chemical application
                                                                                              • Figure 46: Haircare products used in the last 12 months – Details, by hair texture, April 2016
                                                                                            • Hair, style-involved haircare segments more likely to use products at home
                                                                                              • Figure 47: Haircare products used in the last 12 months – Details, by female haircare segments, April 2016
                                                                                          • Reasons for Using Haircare Products

                                                                                              • Product usage centered on course correction
                                                                                                • Figure 48: Reasons for using haircare products, April 2016
                                                                                              • Black women drive product usage to treat hair conditions
                                                                                                • Figure 49: Reasons for using haircare products, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                              • Hair challenges affect everyone, but those with chemically treated hair and extensions are especially prone
                                                                                                • Figure 50: Reasons for using haircare products – Trying to treat part I, by hairstyle, April 2016
                                                                                                • Figure 51: Reasons for using haircare products – Trying to treat part II, by hairstyle, April 2016
                                                                                                • Figure 52: Reasons for using haircare products – Trying to accomplish, by hairstyle, April 2016
                                                                                              • All-in-one treatment product could address most pressing hair challenges
                                                                                                • Figure 53: TURF Analysis – Reasons for using haircare products, April 2016
                                                                                            • Black Haircare Regimen at Home

                                                                                                • Haircare maintenance mainly a weekly ritual
                                                                                                  • Figure 54: Haircare regimen, April 2016
                                                                                                • Women shampoo less often than men, but use more as part of a process
                                                                                                  • Figure 55: Haircare regimen, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                                • Trendier Black adults drive at-home styling frequency
                                                                                                  • Figure 56: Haircare regimen, by haircare segments, April 2016
                                                                                                • Home styling frequency varies greatly depending on hairstyle worn
                                                                                                  • Figure 57: Haircare regimen – Flat iron, straighten, or curl, by hairstyle (nets), April 2016
                                                                                              • Brand and Shopping Preferences

                                                                                                  • Mainstream brands cover basic maintenance; targeted products deliver the finished look
                                                                                                      • Figure 58: Preferred haircare brand categories, by product type, April 2016
                                                                                                    • Mass market brands top the list of favorites
                                                                                                      • Figure 59: Top 15 preferred haircare brands mentioned, April 2016
                                                                                                    • Shampoo and conditioner brands
                                                                                                      • Broad number of collections and solutions
                                                                                                        • Inclusion of Black hair needs and talent within communications
                                                                                                          • Figure 60: Dove Love Your Curls | How we can help girls learn to love their curls, January 2015
                                                                                                          • Figure 61: L’Oréal Garnier Fructis targeted print ads, August 2016
                                                                                                        • Value brands flourish among more specialized and expensive offerings
                                                                                                          • Black product lines approved by consumers and stylists top the list
                                                                                                            • Figure 62: Preferred shampoo and conditioner brands – All brands, April 2016
                                                                                                            • Figure 63: Preferred shampoo and conditioner brands – Mainstream brands, April 2016
                                                                                                            • Figure 64: Preferred shampoo and conditioner brands – African American brands, April 2016
                                                                                                          • Styling brands
                                                                                                            • Top brands focus primarily on all things natural, ingredients, and hairstyles
                                                                                                              • Figure 65: Preferred styling brands – All brands, April 2016
                                                                                                              • Figure 66: Preferred styling brands – Mainstream and African American brands, April 2016
                                                                                                            • Purchase location matches product preference
                                                                                                              • Figure 67: Where haircare products are purchased, April 2016
                                                                                                              • Figure 68: Where haircare products are purchased, by urban area, April 2016
                                                                                                            • Product type and outlet proximity determine preferred purchase location
                                                                                                              • Figure 69: Where haircare products are purchased, by gender, April 2016
                                                                                                          • Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                                                                            • Data sources
                                                                                                              • Sales data
                                                                                                                • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                                                  • Consumer survey data
                                                                                                                    • Abbreviations and terms
                                                                                                                      • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                        • Terms
                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Market

                                                                                                                            • Figure 70: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 71: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2014 and 2016
                                                                                                                            • Figure 72: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 73: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 74: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at current prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 75: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 76: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 77: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 78: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 79: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by black consumers for relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 80: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for home hair color, at current prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                            • Figure 81: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for home hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2011-21
                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Key Players

                                                                                                                            • Figure 82: MULO sales of black shampoo and conditioner, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52-weeks 2015 and 2016
                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Consumer

                                                                                                                            • Figure 83: Preferred brands of shampoo, conditioner, and hair styling products mentioned, April 2016

                                                                                                                        Companies Covered

                                                                                                                        • Walmart Stores (USA)

                                                                                                                        Black Haircare - US - August 2016

                                                                                                                        £3,174.67 (Excl.Tax)