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Clothing Retailing - France - October 2017

“French clothing specialists are under pressure and the sector is undergoing significant structural change. Flat or falling spending has been compounded by the arrival of new international players, the rise of e-commerce, a keen focus on price and the arrival of new generations with different consumption habits. More and more retailers, both store-based and online, are seeking to increase their share of a shrinking market. This is resulting in a brutal redistribution of the cards."
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

Spending on clothing in France has been flat or falling for several years and declined by 0.9% in 2016. Against this background, French specialist fashion retailers have seen conditions worsen due to the ongoing expansion of fast fashion chains, such as Zara and H&M, the growth of online players, such as Amazon, Zalando and ASOS, and the squeeze on prices. The specialists saw their combined sales decline by1.8% in 2016, although some retailers are doing well, including the largest chain, Kiabi. Domestic retailers that have failed to adapt to changes in the market are struggling – sales and profits are falling at many businesses and some are being forced into drastic restructuring.

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: France: Consumer spending on clothing, 2012-17
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 2: France: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Leading players
                • Key metrics
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 3: France: Leading specialist clothing chains’ shares of consumer spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
                  • Online
                    • The consumer
                      • Where they shop
                        • Figure 4: France: Where people shopped for clothing in the last 12 months by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                      • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                        • Figure 5: France: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, September 2017
                      • What we think
                      • Issues and Insights

                        • Why are some French brands struggling while international retailers thrive?
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                              • Ethical and environmental concerns are growing
                                • The facts
                                  • The implications
                                  • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                    • Clothing market is low growth
                                      • Specialists dominate spending on clothing
                                        • Specialists sector in decline
                                        • Spending and Inflation

                                          • Economy recovering, but growth subdued
                                            • Inflation
                                              • Figure 6: France: Consumer prices* of clothing and footwear, annual % change, 2012-16
                                              • Figure 7: France: Consumer prices* of clothing and footwear, annual % change, January 2016-August 2017
                                            • Clothing market is low growth
                                                • Figure 8: France: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2013-17
                                            • Market Segmentation

                                                • Figure 9: France: Clothing market, estimated segmentation, 2012-16
                                            • Channels of Distribution

                                                • Figure 10: France: Where people shopped for clothing in the last 12 months, by type of retailer, September 2017
                                              • Specialist sports shops
                                                • Footwear specialists
                                                  • Department stores and mixed goods retailers
                                                    • Hypermarkets strong at lower end of the market
                                                      • Online expanding fast
                                                        • Figure 11: France: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
                                                    • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                      • Total retail sales recovering, further growth forecast in 2017
                                                        • Specialist clothing sector is struggling
                                                            • Figure 12: France: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2013-17
                                                            • Figure 13: France: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2017-22
                                                        • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                                          • A sector in crisis
                                                            • Structural change
                                                              • Fragmented market
                                                                • Clothing a significant part of growing online sector
                                                                  • Shopping for clothing online increasing
                                                                    • Online spending on clothing
                                                                      • Leading online players
                                                                      • Leading Players

                                                                        • Market leader Vivarte restructuring
                                                                          • Eram: Gemo drops prices and ups digital innovations in-store
                                                                            • Crowded middle ground
                                                                              • Competition and casualties increasing
                                                                                • A new group emerging from the Mulliez family
                                                                                  • Figure 14: France: Leading clothing specialists, sales (excl. VAT), 2012-16
                                                                                  • Figure 15: France: Leading clothing specialists, outlets, 2012-16
                                                                                  • Figure 16: France: Leading clothing specialists, sales per outlet, 2012-16
                                                                              • Market Shares

                                                                                  • Figure 17: France: Leading clothing specialists: Sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2012-16
                                                                              • Online

                                                                                • Online development
                                                                                  • Shopping for clothing online
                                                                                    • Figure 18: France: Proportion of people saying they have bought clothing or sports goods online in the last year, 2011-16
                                                                                    • Figure 19: France: Where people shopped for clothing online/by catalogue in the past 12 months by retailer, September 2017
                                                                                  • Online clothing market size
                                                                                    • Leading online players
                                                                                      • Figure 20: France: Leading fashion/textiles retail sites by number of unique visitors, April-June 2017
                                                                                      • Figure 21: France: Leading retailers’ estimated online sales of clothing, 2016
                                                                                  • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                    • Clothing shopping near ubiquitous
                                                                                      • Specialists most important channel, but lagging behind online
                                                                                        • Sports retailers and grocers are significant non-specialists
                                                                                          • Home-grown Kiabi the most popular, but Amazon growing
                                                                                            • Customer profiles
                                                                                              • Concern for the environment and where clothes come from
                                                                                                • Quality more important to older, more affluent
                                                                                                • Where They Shop

                                                                                                    • Almost everyone buys clothes
                                                                                                      • Where they shop by type of retailer
                                                                                                        • Figure 22: France: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months, by type of retailer, in-store vs online, September 2017
                                                                                                      • Customer profiles by type of retailer
                                                                                                        • Figure 23: France: Profile of clothing shoppers by type of retailer, September 2017
                                                                                                      • Where they shop: named retailers
                                                                                                        • Local retailer Kiabi ahead of international giant H&M
                                                                                                          • Amazon growing
                                                                                                            • Busy middle ground
                                                                                                              • Sports retailers and grocers popular…
                                                                                                                • ...but department stores increasingly niche
                                                                                                                  • Figure 24: France: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                                                • Customer profiles by named retailers
                                                                                                                  • Figure 25: France: Profile of clothing shoppers by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                                                • Shopping online and in-store
                                                                                                                    • Figure 26: France: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months, in-store vs online/by catalogue, September 2017
                                                                                                                  • Number of retailers used
                                                                                                                    • Figure 27: France: Repertoire of where people shopped for clothes, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                                                    • Figure 28: France: Profile of customers by number of outlets used, September 2017
                                                                                                                • Attitudes to Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                                                  • “Green” credentials rank top
                                                                                                                    • Where are my clothes from?
                                                                                                                      • Quality
                                                                                                                        • Men vs women
                                                                                                                          • Figure 29: France: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, September 2017
                                                                                                                          • Figure 30: France: Profile of those who agree with attitude statements, September 2017
                                                                                                                        • Attitudes by retailer
                                                                                                                          • Figure 31: France: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at mid-market family clothing retailers, September 2017
                                                                                                                          • Figure 32: France: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at fashion chains, September 2017
                                                                                                                          • Figure 33: France: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at online/home shopping clothing retailers, September 2017
                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Data sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                                        • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                                                                          • ASOS

                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                • Tapping into consumer demand for newness
                                                                                                                                  • Exclusivity differentiates the brand and gives consumers more reason to visit
                                                                                                                                    • M-commerce fuelling sales growth
                                                                                                                                      • Bolstering ethical and environmental credentials
                                                                                                                                        • Significantly enhancing its US proposition
                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 260: ASOS: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                            • C&A

                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                  • Restructuring aims to return company to growth by 2021
                                                                                                                                                    • New European boss brought in to develop omnichannel
                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 261: C&A: Group sales performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 262: C&A: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 263: C&A (Europe): Outlets by country, October 2017
                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                        • Etam Group

                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                              • Market leader in lingerie in France
                                                                                                                                                                • 1.2.3
                                                                                                                                                                  • Problems in China
                                                                                                                                                                    • Digitally integrated
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                          • Financial results
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 276: Etam Group: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                            • H1 2017 results
                                                                                                                                                                              • Stores
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 277: Etam Group: Outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                              • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Looking beyond fast fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                      • A more seamless shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                                                        • New designer collection aims to appeal to fashion conscious male shoppers
                                                                                                                                                                                          • New loyalty scheme with exclusive offers and brand experiences
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Focusing on offering sustainable finishing processes and eco-friendly materials
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 278: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 279: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Inditex retains strong position but must continue to innovate
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Brand extensions
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 282: Stradivarius menswear collection, 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 283: Pull&Bear beauty range, 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Digital innovations
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 284: Grupo Inditex: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 285: Grupo Inditex: % share of sales, by retail brand, 2015/16-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 286: Grupo Inditex: Sales and operating profit, by major retail brand, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 287: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, by region, at January 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 288: Grupo Inditex: Store numbers, by retail brand, at January 2016 and January 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 289: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Kiabi

                                                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Ambitious expansion plans
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • The threat of Primark
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 292: Kiabi: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 293: Kiabi: Outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Primark

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Getting the product right
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Competition intensifying from rivals
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Brexit impact mitigated but price rises a possibility
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Should Primark have a transactional website?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Where next?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 306: Primark/Penneys: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 307: Primark/Penneys: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Vivarte

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Will the restructuring work?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Online
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 314: Vivarte: Group sales performance, 2011/2-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 315: Vivarte: Store numbers, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 316: Vivarte: Clothing brands (unsold businesses only), October 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • La Halle
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Mobile is at the heart of the business
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Prioritising delivery to drive customer loyalty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Geo-localised delivery being trialled
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Moving from following to leading
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Integrated commerce links up online and offline channels
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Fulfilment service reaches out to brands
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 318: Zalando: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 319: Zalando: Key metrics, 2015-H1 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Clothing Retailing - France - October 2017

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