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Clothing Retailing - Germany - October 2017

“Clothing retailing in Germany is changing and that is seen most clearly in the poor performance of so many of the longest established retailers. A more fashion-demanding consumer is not finding what they want in the likes of C&A and looking instead to younger-oriented retailers, such as H&M and Zara, or online through Amazon and Zalando. More conservative older customers are being well served by price-led retailers, such as Ernstings Family. We have already seen some leading retailers fail and more will follow if they do not adapt to current tastes.”
– Richard Perks, Director of Retail Research

After the traumas of 2016 when a number of major retailers went into administration, 2017 has started better. Some of the failing retailers have been rescued but there are a number of middle market retailers that are still struggling. We think that the root cause of the difficulties being faced by these retailers is a shift in attitudes, from wanting more conservative styles and quality goods to a greater demand for fashionability.

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending on clothing and footwear
              • Figure 1: Germany: Spending on clothing and footwear as % all retail sales, 2011-17
            • Inflation
              • Figure 2: Germany: Consumer prices for clothing and footwear – Annual % change, 2016-17
            • Consumer confidence
              • Figure 3: Germany: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, November 2016-August 2017
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 4: Germany: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Leading players
                • Key metrics
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 5: Germany: Leading clothing retailers, Sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-16
                  • Online
                    • Figure 6: Europe: Proportion of people saying they have bought clothing or sports goods online in the last year, 2011-16
                  • The consumer
                    • Where they shop
                      • Figure 7: Germany: Where people shopped for clothing in the last 12 months by type of retailer, in-store vs online, September 2017
                      • Figure 8: Germany: Profile of clothing shoppers by type of retailer used, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                      • Figure 9: Germany: Profile of clothing shoppers, by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                    • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                      • Figure 10: Germany: Attitudes to buying clothes, September 2017
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                      • The market is changing
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • Online and in-store sales – Understanding each other’s strengths
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                  • Consumer confidence
                                    • Clothing and footwear spending underperforming
                                      • Inflation low
                                        • Clothing and footwear specialists take over half of category spending
                                        • Spending and Inflation

                                          • Economy and consumer confidence
                                            • Figure 11: Germany: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, November 2016-August 2017
                                          • Inflation
                                            • Figure 12: Germany: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, 2012-16
                                            • Figure 13: Germany: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, annual % change, 2016-17
                                          • Consumer spending on clothing
                                            • Figure 14: Germany: Consumer spending (inc VAT), 2012-17
                                            • Figure 15: Germany: Spending on clothing and footwear as % all retail sales, 2011-17
                                        • Market Segmentation

                                            • Figure 16: Germany: Clothing market, estimated segmentation, 2012-16
                                        • Channels of Distribution

                                              • Figure 17: Germany: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
                                          • Sector Size and Forecast

                                            • Clothing specialists recovering
                                              • Figure 18: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers’ sales as % all spending on clothing, 2007-17
                                              • Figure 19: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2012-17
                                            • Too early to forecast if the recovery will be sustained
                                              • Figure 20: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl VAT), 2017-22
                                          • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                            • Young fashion retailers are growing
                                              • Older focussed retailers are often struggling
                                                • Price-led retailers also doing well
                                                  • Fragmented market
                                                    • Online is growing
                                                    • Leading Players

                                                        • Figure 21: Germany: Leading clothing specialists, sales (excl Vat), 2014-16
                                                        • Figure 22: Germany: Leading clothing specialists, Outlets, 2014-16
                                                        • Figure 23: Germany: Leading clothing specialists, sales per outlet, 2014-16
                                                    • Market Shares

                                                        • Figure 24: Germany: Leading clothing retailers, Sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-16
                                                    • Online

                                                      • Shopping for clothing online
                                                        • Figure 25: Europe: Proportion of people saying they have bought clothing or sports goods online in the last year, 2011-16
                                                      • Online clothing market size
                                                        • Leading online players
                                                            • Figure 26: Germany: Online clothing sales of leading online clothing retailers (excl. Vat), 2014-16
                                                            • Figure 27: Germany: Leading online pure players, Clothing sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-16
                                                        • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                          • Specialists losing out
                                                            • Sales per customer lower online
                                                              • Shops and home shopping used interchangeably
                                                                • Shopper profiles
                                                                  • Younger shoppers use more outlets
                                                                    • Quality more important than fashion
                                                                      • Green attitudes
                                                                      • Where they Shop

                                                                          • Figure 28: Germany: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months, by type of retailer, September 2017
                                                                          • Figure 29: Germany: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months, September 2017
                                                                        • Online growing
                                                                          • Figure 30: Germany: Proportion of shoppers at department stores, in-store and online, 2014, 2016, 2017
                                                                          • Figure 31: Germany: Proportion of online shoppers, 2014, 2016, 2017
                                                                        • Customer profiles by type of retailer
                                                                          • Figure 32: Germany: Profile of clothing shoppers by type of retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                        • Customer profiles by named retailers
                                                                            • Figure 33: Germany: Profile of clothing shoppers, by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                          • Number of retailers used
                                                                            • Figure 34: Germany: Repertoire of where people shopped for clothes, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                            • Figure 35: Germany: Profile of customers by number of clothing outlets used, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                        • Attitudes to Shopping for Clothes

                                                                            • Figure 36: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, September 2017
                                                                            • Figure 37: Germany: Profile of those who agree with attitude statements, September 2017
                                                                          • Attitudes by retailer
                                                                              • Figure 38: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at mass market multiples, September 2017
                                                                              • Figure 39: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at department stores (incl. P&C), September 2017
                                                                              • Figure 40: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by people who shop at online pureplayers, September 2017
                                                                          • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                            • Abbreviations
                                                                              • Data sources
                                                                              • C&A

                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                    • Restructuring aims to return company to growth by 2021
                                                                                      • New European boss brought in to develop omnichannel
                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                            • Figure 41: C&A: Group sales performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                            • Figure 42: C&A: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                            • Figure 43: C&A (Europe): Outlets by country, October 2017
                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                          • Esprit

                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                • Downsizing is happening but slowly
                                                                                                  • Time for menswear exit?
                                                                                                    • Online pause hopefully a temporary blip
                                                                                                      • Where now?
                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                            • Figure 44: Esprit Europe: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                            • Figure 45: Esprit Europe: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                          • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                • Looking beyond fast fashion
                                                                                                                  • A more seamless shopping experience
                                                                                                                    • New designer collection aims to appeal to fashion conscious male shoppers
                                                                                                                      • New loyalty scheme with exclusive offers and brand experiences
                                                                                                                        • Focusing on offering sustainable finishing processes and eco-friendly materials
                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                              • Figure 46: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                              • Figure 47: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                            • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                  • Inditex retains strong position but must continue to innovate
                                                                                                                                    • Brand extensions
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 48: Stradivarius menswear collection, 2017
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 49: Pull&Bear beauty range, 2017
                                                                                                                                    • Digital innovations
                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 50: Grupo Inditex: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 51: Grupo Inditex: % share of sales, by retail brand, 2015/16-2016/17
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 52: Grupo Inditex: Sales and operating profit, by major retail brand, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 53: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, by region, at January 2017
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 54: Grupo Inditex: Store numbers, by retail brand, at January 2016 and January 2017
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 55: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                        • KiK

                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                              • KiK17 store concept
                                                                                                                                                • Charles Vögele stores acquisition
                                                                                                                                                  • Entering the US market in 2019
                                                                                                                                                    • Bridging the gap between in-store and online shopping
                                                                                                                                                      • Bolstering eco and social responsibility credentials
                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 56: KiK: Group sales performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 57: KiK: Outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                          • TJX International (TK Maxx Europe)

                                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                • Room for growth
                                                                                                                                                                  • Attracting a broad demographic
                                                                                                                                                                    • Launching new loyalty scheme in the UK and Ireland
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 58: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 59: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                        • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                              • Mobile is at the heart of the business
                                                                                                                                                                                • Prioritising delivery to drive customer loyalty
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Geo-localised delivery being trialled
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Moving from following to leading
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Integrated commerce links up online and offline channels
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Fulfilment service reaches out to brands
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Zalando: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Zalando: Key metrics, 2015-H1 2017
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                            Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                            To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                                            Clothing Retailing - Germany - October 2017

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