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Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2017

“The Italian clothing sector is highly fragmented. But fashion is in the blood of Italians and spending on clothing has remained robust. Things are changing quickly – online and the fast fashion retailers are revolutionising how people shop. With the world at their fingertips, shoppers are increasingly choosy and retailers need to give them good reason to shop with them. They need to adapt to changing customer demands, or risk falling by the wayside as Italian retailing modernises.”
– Richard Perks, Director of Retail Research

Spending on clothing and footwear in Italy as a proportion of all consumer spending is amongst the highest in Europe – 6.2% in 2016. But distribution remains highly fragmented. There are still many independents and the penetration of multiples is low. The leading 12 clothing specialists only capture 11% of all spending, and the single largest chain, OVS, has a market share of just 2%. But things are changing fast as the international fashion operators expand and online shopping is increasing. In our consumer research Amazon was as popular a destination as H&M for buying clothing. The company is investing heavily in Italy and its influence is moulding and changing the retail landscape.

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: Italy: Annual percentage change in consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl VAT), 2013-17
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 2: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 3: Italy: Annual percentage change in clothing, footwear and textiles specialists’ sales (excl VAT), 2013-17
            • Leading players
              • Market shares
                • Figure 4: Italy: Leading clothing specialists: Sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
              • Online
                • The consumer
                  • Where they shop
                    • Figure 5: Italy: Where people shopped for clothes by type of retailer, in-store vs online, September 2017
                  • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                    • Figure 6: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, September 2017
                  • What we think
                  • Issues and Insights

                    • Online is a key driver of growth
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Environmental and ethical credentials are important to consumers
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                              • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                • Economy weak
                                  • Inflation just staying positive
                                    • Consumer spending on clothing and footwear slowed in 2016
                                      • Specialists dominate the sector
                                        • Clothing retailers may see their share of retail sales slip back
                                        • Spending and Inflation

                                          • Consumer confidence weak
                                            • Figure 7: Italy: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, November 2016-August 2017
                                          • Inflation
                                            • Figure 8: Italy: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, 2012-16
                                            • Figure 9: Italy: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, annual % change, January 2016-August 2017
                                          • Spending on clothing
                                            • Figure 10: Italy: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl VAT), 2012-17
                                        • Market Segmentation

                                            • Figure 11: Italy: Clothing market, estimated segmentation, 2012-16
                                        • Channels of Distribution

                                            • Figure 12: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2016
                                        • Sector Size and Forecast

                                            • Department stores weak
                                              • Slow but steady structural change
                                                • Figure 13: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2013-17
                                                • Figure 14: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2018-22
                                            • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                              • An evolving sector
                                                • Young fashion retailers growing fastest, and older brands struggling
                                                  • Foreign brands prominent
                                                    • Fragmented market
                                                      • Online growing fast – Amazon investing
                                                      • Leading Players

                                                        • Sector is evolving and changing
                                                          • Young fashion retailers growing fastest, and now Primark is here….
                                                            • Many older, established brands are struggling
                                                              • OVS leads the market
                                                                • Gruppo Teddy a local fast fashion group
                                                                  • Foreign brands
                                                                    • Figure 15: Italy: Leading clothing specialists, sales (excl VAT), 2012-16
                                                                    • Figure 16: Italy: Leading clothing specialists, outlets, 2012-16
                                                                    • Figure 17: Italy: Leading clothing specialists, sales per outlet, 2012-16
                                                                • Market Shares

                                                                    • Figure 18: Italy: Leading clothing specialists: sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2012-16
                                                                • Online

                                                                  • The online sector as a whole
                                                                    • Shopping for clothing online
                                                                      • Figure 19: Italy: Proportion of people saying they have bought clothing or sports goods online in the last year, 2011-16
                                                                    • Online market size
                                                                      • Leading online players
                                                                        • Specialists
                                                                          • Figure 20: Italy Where people shopped for clothing online/by catalogue in the past 12 months by retailer, September 2017
                                                                          • Figure 21: Italy: Leading retailers’ estimated online sales of clothing, 2016
                                                                      • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                        • Specialists still dominant
                                                                          • Enthusiastic shoppers
                                                                            • Shopper profiles
                                                                              • Increasingly shoppers use online and in-store interchangeably
                                                                                • Quality more important than fashion
                                                                                  • Green attitudes
                                                                                  • Where they Shop

                                                                                        • Figure 22: Italy: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months by type of retailer, in-store vs online, September 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 23: Italy: Where people shopped for clothes in the last 12 months by retailer, in-store vs online, September 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 24: Italy: Proportion of shoppers at department stores, instore vs online, 2014, 2016, 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 25: Italy: Proportion of online shoppers, 2014, 2016, 2017
                                                                                      • Profile of shoppers
                                                                                        • Figure 26: Italy: Profile of clothing shoppers by type of retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 27: Italy: Profile of clothing shoppers, by retailer, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                      • Number of retailers used
                                                                                        • Figure 28: Italy: Repertoire of where people shopped for clothes, whether in-store or online, September 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 29: Italy: Profile of customers by number of outlets used, September 2017
                                                                                    • Attitudes to Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                        • Figure 30: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, September 2017
                                                                                        • Figure 31: Italy: Profile of those who agree with attitude statements, September 2017
                                                                                      • Attitudes by retailer
                                                                                          • Figure 32: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by retailer used, September 2017
                                                                                          • Figure 33: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by retailer used (continued), September 2017
                                                                                      • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                        • Abbreviations
                                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                                          • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                • Looking beyond fast fashion
                                                                                                  • A more seamless shopping experience
                                                                                                    • New designer collection aims to appeal to fashion conscious male shoppers
                                                                                                      • New loyalty scheme with exclusive offers and brand experiences
                                                                                                        • Focusing on offering sustainable finishing processes and eco-friendly materials
                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                              • Figure 34: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                              • Figure 35: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2011/12-2015/16
                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                            • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                  • Inditex retains strong position but must continue to innovate
                                                                                                                    • Brand extensions
                                                                                                                      • Figure 36: Stradivarius menswear collection, 2017
                                                                                                                      • Figure 37: Pull&Bear beauty range, 2017
                                                                                                                    • Digital innovations
                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                          • Figure 38: Grupo Inditex: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                          • Figure 39: Grupo Inditex: % share of sales, by retail brand, 2015/16-2016/17
                                                                                                                          • Figure 40: Grupo Inditex: Sales and operating profit, by major retail brand, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                          • Figure 41: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, by region, at January 2017
                                                                                                                          • Figure 42: Grupo Inditex: Store numbers, by retail brand, at January 2016 and January 2017
                                                                                                                          • Figure 43: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                        • OVS

                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                              • Conversion of Charles Vögele stores yielding positive results
                                                                                                                                • Online sales triple in 2016
                                                                                                                                  • Proximity marketing to drive store footfall
                                                                                                                                    • New multichannel shopping service
                                                                                                                                      • Faster and simpler payment solution
                                                                                                                                        • New material procurement policy to reduce environmental impact
                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 44: OVS group: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 45: OVS group: Outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                            • YNAP Group

                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                  • The future: more investment in technology
                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: YNAP group: Group financial performance, 2014-16
                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                      • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                            • Mobile is at the heart of the business
                                                                                                                                                              • Prioritising delivery to drive customer loyalty
                                                                                                                                                                • Geo-localised delivery being trialled
                                                                                                                                                                  • Moving from following to leading
                                                                                                                                                                    • Integrated commerce links up online and offline channels
                                                                                                                                                                      • Fulfilment service reaches out to brands
                                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 47: Zalando: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 48: Zalando: Key metrics, 2015-H1 2017
                                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                          Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                          To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                          Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2017

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