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Clothing Size - UK - July 2012

“Unless the mainstream fashion market becomes more sympathetic to big and tall consumers’ needs, it runs the risk of becoming ostracised from this increasingly united group on a permanent basis, and given the changing shape of the global marketplace, may run the risk of damaging brands and designer names in fashion for the long term among the ‘growing’ majority.”

– Neil Mason, Head of Retail Research

Some questions answered in this report include

  • Is fashion becoming more inclusive?
  • Are men still marginalised?
  • Can the damage be undone?
  • Can plus size retailers capitalise on the grey market?
  • Is online retailing the saviour of non-standard-sized consumers?

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Definitions
        • Abbreviations
        • Executive Summary

            • The market
              • Forecast
                • Figure 1: Market size and forecast of the plus-sized clothing market, 2007-17
              • Market factors
                • Figure 2: Overweight and obesity prevalence among adults in England (three-year moving averages), by gender, 1993-2010
              • Companies, brands and innovation
                • The consumer
                  • Figure 3: The size in which UK women buy their clothing, by age, May 2012
                • Male metrics
                  • Figure 4: The size in which UK men buy their clothing, May 2012
                  • Figure 5: The size in which UK men buy their clothing, by age, May 2012
                • Understanding range dynamics
                  • Figure 6: The size ranges that UK consumers (men and women) buy their clothing, May 2012
                • Size inconsistency a barrier to sales
                  • Figure 7: Attitudes towards buying clothing, May 2012
                  • Figure 8: Attitudes towards clothing sizes in fashion and retail, May 2012
                • What we think
                • Issues in the Market

                    • Is fashion becoming more inclusive?
                      • Are men still marginalised?
                        • Can the damage be undone?
                          • Can plus size retailers capitalise on the grey market?
                            • Is online retailing the saviour of non-standard-sized consumers?
                            • Future Opportunities

                                • Trend: Experience is All
                                  • Trend: Make it Mine
                                    • Old Gold
                                    • Internal Market Environment

                                      • Key points
                                        • The changing shape of the average Briton
                                          • A tall order
                                            • The big issue
                                              • Figure 9: Overweight and obesity prevalence among adults in England (three-year moving averages), by gender, 1993-2010
                                            • The Plus Size audience
                                              • Figure 10: Body Mass Index, 2007-11
                                              • Figure 11: Body Mass Index and overweight and obesity prevalence among adults in England, by gender and age, 2010
                                              • Figure 12: Body Mass Index and overweight and obesity prevalence among adults in England, by gender and equivalised household income, 2010
                                            • Childhood obesity and failing targets
                                              • Figure 13: Overweight and obesity prevalence among children in England, by gender and age, 1995-2010
                                              • Figure 14: Mean BMI, by age and gender of child, 2010
                                            • Shaping the future?
                                              • Figure 15: Projection of obesity prevalence among adults in England, by gender, 2003-50
                                              • Figure 16: Projection of obesity prevalence among adults in England – 18-40s, by gender, 1993-2040
                                            • Changing attitudes towards lifestyle
                                              • Figure 17: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, 2007-11
                                          • Broader Market Environment

                                            • Key points
                                              • Uncertain economic climate is a threat for UK retailing
                                                • Figure 18: GDP quarterly percentage change, Q1 2004-Q1 2012
                                                • Figure 19: Consumer Confidence Index, January 2009-April 2012
                                              • Household finances continue to be squeezed
                                                • Figure 20: CPI vs earnings growth, January 2008-January 2012
                                              • A million jobless 16-24-year-olds to dent high street fashion?
                                                • Figure 21: Employment and unemployment, by gender, 2007-17
                                              • Ageing population holds potential for niche sizing
                                                • Figure 22: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2007-17
                                                • Figure 23: Trends in the socio-economic structure of the UK population, 2007-17
                                            • Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

                                              • Strengths
                                                • Weaknesses
                                                • Who’s Innovating?

                                                  • Key points
                                                    • Changing technology
                                                      • Online facilitates community support
                                                        • One-click purchasing within magazines
                                                          • Virtual changing rooms
                                                            • Smart mirrors and virtual changing
                                                              • Changing format
                                                                • Developing the multichannel offering
                                                                  • Changing attitudes
                                                                    • Turning fat into fact
                                                                      • The changing shape of the industry
                                                                      • Competitive Context

                                                                        • Key points
                                                                          • Plus size sales starting to represent the weight dynamics of the UK
                                                                            • Figure 24: UK sales of womenswear and women’s plus-sized clothing, 2007-12
                                                                          • Menswear – slow but steady
                                                                            • Figure 25: UK sales of menswear and men’s plus-sized clothing, 2007-12
                                                                          • The importance of online
                                                                            • Figure 26: UK sales of online clothing and over-55s’ clothing, 2007-12
                                                                          • Over-55s to increase their presence in the clothing market
                                                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                            • Key points
                                                                              • Figure 27: UK sales of plus size womenswear, 2007-17
                                                                            • Petite gains for the petite range
                                                                              • Figure 28: UK sales of petite womenswear, 2007-17
                                                                              • Figure 29: UK sales of plus size menswear, 2007-17
                                                                            • Forecast
                                                                              • Figure 30: Total value of the plus-sized clothing market, 2007-17
                                                                            • Plus size womenswear clothing forecast
                                                                              • Figure 31: Total value of the plus size womenswear clothing market, 2007-17
                                                                            • Petite womenswear forecast
                                                                              • Figure 32: Total value of the petite womenswear market, 2007-17
                                                                            • Plus size menswear forecast
                                                                              • Figure 33: Total value of the plus size menswear market, 2007-17
                                                                            • Factors used in the forecast
                                                                            • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                • Figure 34: Expenditure on advertising, by non-standard-sized clothing specialists, 2007-11
                                                                              • Home shopping powerhouses show their might in the market
                                                                                • Half of spend via direct mail
                                                                                  • Figure 35: Expenditure on advertising by non-standard-sized clothing specialists, by media type, 2007-11
                                                                                • Direct impact on press advertising
                                                                                  • TV nearing press spend
                                                                                    • Figure 36: Expenditure on advertising by non-standard-sized clothing specialists, by media type, 2007-11
                                                                                  • Internet advertising largely neglected by internet-centred brands
                                                                                  • Retail Competitor Analysis

                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                      • Non-specialist retailers
                                                                                        • The value offering
                                                                                          • The department stores
                                                                                            • The grocery multiples
                                                                                              • High street fashion chains
                                                                                                • Those that don’t
                                                                                                  • Menswear non-specialists
                                                                                                    • Trends among specialist retailers
                                                                                                      • Trend- and design-led collections
                                                                                                        • Diversification among the specialists
                                                                                                          • International attention
                                                                                                            • Figure 37: Leading clothing retailers, 2010/11
                                                                                                            • Figure 38: Leading clothing retailers, 2010/11 (continued)
                                                                                                            • Figure 39: Leading clothing retailers, 2010/11 (continued)
                                                                                                            • Figure 40: Leading non-specialist clothing retailers, 2010/11
                                                                                                            • Figure 41: Specialist plus, tall and petite clothing retailers and selected mail order operators, 2010/11
                                                                                                        • Companies and Products

                                                                                                          • Ann Harvey
                                                                                                              • Figure 42: Financial performance of Irisa Group, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                            • Artigiano
                                                                                                              • Elvi
                                                                                                                • Evans
                                                                                                                    • Figure 43: Financial performance of the Arcadia Group, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                  • High & Mighty
                                                                                                                    • Long Tall Sally
                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Financial performance of Long Tall Sally, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                      • N Brown (Marisota, Simply Be, Jacamo)
                                                                                                                          • Figure 45: Financial performance of N Brown Group, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                        • Shop Direct
                                                                                                                            • Figure 46: Financial performance of the Shop Direct Group, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                          • Yours
                                                                                                                              • Figure 47: Financial performance of Size Up, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Which Clothes Sizes are Bought

                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                              • The female form
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 48: The size in which UK women buy their clothing, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                                • Age and size directly correlated
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 49: The size in which UK women buy their clothing, by age, May 2012
                                                                                                                                • Skinny Central
                                                                                                                                  • Male metrics
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: The size in which UK men buy their clothing, May 2012
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 51: The size in which UK men buy their clothing, by age, May 2012
                                                                                                                                  • Understanding range dynamics
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 52: The size ranges in which UK consumers buy their clothing, May 2012
                                                                                                                                  • One specialist range leads to another
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 53: Cross-analysis of women’s sizes and ranges bought, May 2012
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 54: Cross-analysis of men’s sizes and ranges bought, May 2012
                                                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Who Shops Where by Size

                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 55: Retailers from which UK consumers buy their clothing, May 2012
                                                                                                                                      • General demographic overview
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 56: Retailers from which UK consumers buy their clothing in-store, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                        • Online buying
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 57: Retailers from which UK women buy their clothing online, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                        • Male retail mapping
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Retailers from which UK men buy their clothing online, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                          • Free range?
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Retailers from which UK consumers buy their clothing, by range, May 2012
                                                                                                                                        • The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Attitudes towards buying clothing, May 2012
                                                                                                                                            • Try before they buy
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 61: Women who prefer to try on clothing to check that it fits before buying it, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 62: Men who prefer to try on clothing to check that it fits before buying it, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                              • Limited range
                                                                                                                                                • Alienating a third of all consumers
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 63: Agreement with statement ‘It can be a struggle finding clothes that fit me well’ – women, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                  • A sensitive subject
                                                                                                                                                    • Struggling to fit in
                                                                                                                                                      • Can’t have it all
                                                                                                                                                      • The Consumer – Shopping and Dressing for Size

                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 64: Attitudes towards clothing sizes in fashion and retail, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                          • Loud and proud
                                                                                                                                                            • A growing voice of non-conformity?
                                                                                                                                                              • The compromise and the compromised
                                                                                                                                                                • Clothing needs
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 65: Things that are important when buying clothing, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Is fashion out of fashion?
                                                                                                                                                                    • To flatter or flatten?
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 66: Things that are important when buying clothing – women, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 67: Things that are important when buying clothing – men, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 68: Things that are important when buying clothing, by size, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 69: Consumer typology groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                      • Group 1: Not Their Problem – 22%
                                                                                                                                                                        • Clothing attitudes and demands
                                                                                                                                                                          • Attitudes towards change
                                                                                                                                                                            • Size dynamics
                                                                                                                                                                              • By range
                                                                                                                                                                                • Where do they shop?
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Demographic indicators
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Group 2: Size Matters – 14%
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Clothing attitudes and demands
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Attitudes towards change
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Size dynamics
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Where do they shop?
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Demographic indicators
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Group 3: Style and Quality – 24%
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Clothing attitudes and demands
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Attitudes towards change
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Size dynamics
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Where they shop
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Demographic indicators
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Group 4: Least Likely – 40%
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Clothing attitudes and demands
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Attitudes towards change
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Size dynamics
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Where do they shop?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Demographic indicators
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 70: Body Mass Index, 2007-11
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 71: Body Mass Index, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 72: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, 2007-11
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 73: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 74: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – The Consumer – Which Clothes Sizes are Bought

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 75: UK clothing sizes bought by women, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 76: UK clothing sizes bought by men, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 77: UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 78: Clothing sizes bought by men and women, by UK clothing sizes bought by women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 79: UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, by UK clothing sizes bought by men, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – The Consumer – Who Shops Where by Size

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 80: Retailers where people buy clothes, physical retailers, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 81: Retailers where people buy clothes, physical retailers, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 82: Retailers where people buy clothes, online retailers, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 83: Retailers where people buy clothes, online retailers, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 84: Retailers where people buy clothes, by UK clothing sizes bought by women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 85: Retailers where people buy clothes, by UK clothing sizes bought by men, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 86: Retailers where people buy clothes, by UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 87: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 88: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 89: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 90: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by men, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 91: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – The Consumer – Shopping and Dressing for Size

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 92: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 93: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 94: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 95: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by men, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 97: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 98: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 99: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 100: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by men, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 101: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – The Consumer – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 102: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 103: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 104: Target groups, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 105: UK clothing sizes bought by women, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 106: UK clothing sizes bought by men, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 107: UK clothing sizes bought by men and women, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 108: Retailers where people buy clothes, by target groups, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 109: Important factors when shopping for clothing, by target groups, May 2012

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Ben Sherman
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Dorothy Perkins old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Empire Stores Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • N Brown Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Shop Direct Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Tommy Hilfiger Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Topman old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Topshop old

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Clothing Size - UK - July 2012

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      £1,995.00 (Excl.Tax)