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Color Cosmetics - US - July 2012

The market for color cosmetics stagnated during the recession as women spent less freely on makeup, trading down and reducing replacement cycles. However, sales have rebounded and increased 4.6% from 2010-11 and are estimated to increase 3.5% from 2011-12, reaching $8.4 billion.

There are plentiful options waiting for beauty-hungry women looking for products that will help them achieve the “look” they strive for, be it fashion-glam or natural, and between 2012 and 2016 sales are forecast to increase 26%. Healthy growth will not come without a challenge, and this report closely examines these issues and the variety of factors impacting the color cosmetics market.

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Table of contents

  1. Scope and Themes

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
        • Data sources
          • Sales data
            • Consumer survey data
              • Advertising creative
                • Abbreviations and terms
                  • Abbreviations
                    • Terms
                    • Executive Summary

                        • The market
                          • Figure 1: Total U.S. sales and fan chart forecast of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-17
                        • Market factors
                          • More women, but women growing older
                            • Figure 2: Female population, by age, 2011-16
                          • Hispanic growth could fill in the gap
                            • Unemployment and disposable personal income cut into sales
                              • Figure 3: Unemployment and Underemployment, January 2007–March 2012
                            • Retail channels
                              • Figure 4: Sales of color cosmetics, by retail channel, 2012 (est.)
                            • Leading companies
                              • The consumer
                                • Mascara/eyeliner/foundation is the essential combo
                                  • Figure 5: Frequency of cosmetic usage—any, always or sometimes wear, March 2012
                                • Sampling and price are the leading incentives for purchase
                                  • Figure 6: Top 10 Influencers on trying new makeup product or brand, by age groups 18-34, March 2012
                                • Targeting Baby Boomers with multifunctional products
                                  • Figure 7: Top nine claims influencing cosmetic selection—very important, by age groups 45-65+, March 2012
                                • What we think
                                • Issues in the Market

                                    • How can marketers best appeal to an aging population less likely to use cosmetics?
                                      • With an expanding array of products available, are consumers faced with too much of a good thing?
                                        • How will technology impact the market?
                                        • Insights and Opportunities

                                          • Try it before you buy it: real time and virtual
                                            • Sampling gets it in their hands (and on their face)
                                              • Multifunctional products have potential widespread appeal
                                              • Inspire Insights

                                                  • Trend: Perfecting the Details
                                                    • Trend: Experience is All
                                                    • Market Size and Forecast

                                                      • Key points
                                                        • Market stabilization expected with category streamlining
                                                          • Sales and forecast of color cosmetics
                                                            • Figure 8: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-17
                                                            • Figure 9: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of color cosmetics, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2007-17
                                                          • Fan chart forecast
                                                              • Figure 10: Total U.S. sales and fan chart forecast of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-17
                                                            • Walmart sales
                                                            • Market Drivers

                                                              • Key points
                                                                • Population shifts impact types of cosmetics most in demand
                                                                  • Figure 11: Female population, by age, 2006-16
                                                                • The changing face of the American cosmetics consumer
                                                                  • Figure 12: Total U.S. color cosmetic product introductions with an ethnic claim, 2007-12
                                                                  • Figure 13: Population,, by race and Hispanic origin, 2006-16
                                                                  • Figure 14: U.S. Hispanic population, by age, 2006-16
                                                                • Sluggish economic recovery impacts cosmetic sales
                                                                  • Figure 15: Unemployment and underemployment, January 2007–March 2012
                                                                  • Figure 16: Real Disposable Personal Income, January 2007–January 2012
                                                              • Competitive Context

                                                                • Blurring of product lines causes aisle confusion
                                                                  • Science and technology threaten need for cosmetics
                                                                    • False eyelashes trend could threaten mascara use
                                                                    • Segment Performance

                                                                      • Key points
                                                                        • Lip makeup shines, yet eye makeup continues to lead
                                                                          • Sales of color cosmetics, by segment
                                                                            • Figure 17: Total U.S. retail sales of color cosmetics, segmented by type, 2011 and 2012
                                                                        • Segment Performance—Eye Makeup

                                                                          • Key points
                                                                            • Sales of eye makeup boosted by product development advances
                                                                              • Sales and forecast of eye makeup
                                                                                • Figure 18: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of eye makeup, at current prices, 2007-17
                                                                            • Segment Performance—Face Makeup

                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                • Face makeup stands to benefit from multifunctional products
                                                                                  • Sales and forecast of face makeup
                                                                                    • Figure 19: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of face makeup, at current prices, 2007-17
                                                                                • Segment Performance—Lip Makeup

                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                    • Sheer tints with added functionality could bolster use
                                                                                      • Sales and forecast of lip makeup
                                                                                        • Figure 20: Total U.S. retail sales and forecast of lip makeup, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                                    • Retail Channels

                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                        • “Other” retailers collectively dominate
                                                                                          • Sales of color cosmetics, by channel
                                                                                            • Figure 21: Total U.S. retail sales of color cosmetics, by channel, 2011 and 2012 (est.)
                                                                                          • Shoppers prefer drug stores, mass merchandisers, and Walmart
                                                                                              • Figure 22: Purchase locations—lip and eye makeup, March 2012
                                                                                              • Figure 23: Purchase locations—face makeup, March 2012
                                                                                          • Retail Channels—Drug Stores

                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                              • Drug stores struggle to find their footing with cosmetics
                                                                                                • Drug store sales of color cosmetics
                                                                                                  • Figure 24: Drug store sales of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-12
                                                                                              • Retail Channels—Supermarkets

                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                  • Supermarkets are showing promise
                                                                                                    • Supermarket sales of color cosmetics
                                                                                                      • Figure 25: Supermarket sales of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-12
                                                                                                  • Retail Channels—Other

                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                      • Other retailers find success in product variety and “try before you buy”
                                                                                                        • Cosmetics/beauty specialty stores
                                                                                                          • Department stores
                                                                                                            • Online
                                                                                                              • Other sales of color cosmetics
                                                                                                                • Figure 26: Other sales of color cosmetics, at current prices, 2007-12
                                                                                                            • Leading Companies

                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                • Four companies dominate; L’Oréal the leader
                                                                                                                  • Keeping an eye on the little guy
                                                                                                                    • Manufacturer sales of color cosmetics
                                                                                                                      • Figure 27: Select manufacturer sales of color cosmetics at FDMx, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                  • Brand Share—Eye Makeup

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • L’Oréal the eye makeup success story
                                                                                                                        • Select products from other market leaders fare well
                                                                                                                            • Figure 28: Select manufacturer sales of eye makeup at FDMx, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                        • Brand Share—Face Makeup

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Select lines propel L’Oréal…
                                                                                                                              • …and bolster other segment leaders
                                                                                                                                • Manufacturer sales of face makeup
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 29: Select manufacturer sales of face makeup at FDMx, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                              • Brand Share—Lip Makeup

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • L’Oréal has a third share of the market
                                                                                                                                    • Lightweight lip makeup the winner
                                                                                                                                      • Manufacturer sales of lip makeup
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 30: Manufacturer sales of lip makeup at FDMx, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                                    • Innovations and Innovators

                                                                                                                                      • New product introductions
                                                                                                                                        • Lip products lead introductions
                                                                                                                                          • Face makeup dominated by foundation/fluid illuminators
                                                                                                                                            • Long-lasting eye makeup the top claim
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 31: U.S. new product introductions, 2006-May 18, 2012
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 32: Global new product introduction claims, 2006-May 18, 2012*
                                                                                                                                            • Maybelline embraces gel technology
                                                                                                                                              • Cosmetics that last all day. Or all night.
                                                                                                                                                • Natural products and products associated with nature
                                                                                                                                                  • Fashion designers influence cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                    • Mad Men inspired
                                                                                                                                                      • Bold eyebrows a current trend
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 33: Eye Makeup product introductions, 2010-12
                                                                                                                                                      • Cosmetics for men?
                                                                                                                                                        • Age-defying cosmetics ready for Baby Boomer population
                                                                                                                                                          • Many needs in one bottle: Multifunctional
                                                                                                                                                          • Marketing Strategies

                                                                                                                                                            • Overview of the brand landscape
                                                                                                                                                              • Brand analysis: L’Oréal
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 34: Brand analysis of L’Oréal Infallible Lip Gloss, 2012
                                                                                                                                                              • TV presence
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 35: L’Oréal, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                              • Magazine pages
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 36: L’Oréal magazine ad, Infallible Lip Gloss with Gwen Stefani, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                              • Online initiatives
                                                                                                                                                                • Brand analysis: Revlon
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 37: Brand analysis of Revlon use of Olivia Wilde, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 38: Brand analysis of Revlon use of Emma Stone, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • TV presence
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 39: Revlon, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 40: Revlon, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 41: Revlon, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Magazine pages
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 42: Revlon magazine ad, Lip Butter featuring Emma Stone, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 43: Revlon magazine ad, Colorstay 16 Hour Eye shadow featuring Olivia Wilde, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Online initiatives
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 44: Revlon website, June 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Brand analysis: CoverGirl
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 45: Brand analysis of Covergirl LashBlast 24 Hour Mascara, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • TV presence
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 46: Covergirl, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Magazine ads
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 47: Covergirl magazine ad, Lashblast 24 Hour Mascara, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Online initiatives
                                                                                                                                                                  • Brand analysis: Rimmel
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: Rimmel analysis of brand, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • TV presence
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: Rimmel, television ad, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Magazine pages
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: Rimmell magazine ad, Scandal’Eyes Mascara, May 2012
                                                                                                                                                                  • Online initiatives
                                                                                                                                                                  • Cosmetic Usage

                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                      • Mascara, foundation, and eyeliner are the essential three
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 51: Frequency of cosmetic usage, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                      • Targeting with age-appropriate messaging
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 52: Makeup behaviors, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                        • Skin concerns and “face feel” leading detractors
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 53: Makeup detractors, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                      • Eye Makeup

                                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                          • Mascara worn the most, and most often by those aged 18-34
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 54: Eye makeup usage, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                          • Nearly equal use of regular and waterproof mascara
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 55: Types of mascara worn, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Affluence has little impact on mascara brands used
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 56: Top 10 brands of mascara used, by household income, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Powder and crayon/pencil dominate for eye shadow/eyeliner/brow pencil
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 57: Kinds of eye shadow/eyeliner/brow pencil used, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Eye makeup most often applied with included tools
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Eye makeup application tools, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                          • CoverGirl reaches a broad demographic for eye shadow/eyeliner/brow pencil use
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Top 10 brands of eye shadow/eyeliner/brow pencil used, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Face Makeup

                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                            • Greatest growth opportunity seen for bronzer, primer, and BB cream
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Face makeup usage, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                            • Liquid foundation dominates, but younger women experiment
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Types of foundation used, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Finger application most frequent for foundation use
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 62: Application of foundation, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                            • CoverGirl and Neutrogena have a hold on young women
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 63: Top 10 brands of foundation used, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Lip Makeup

                                                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                              • Lipstick and lip gloss have the most use
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 64: Use of lip makeup, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                              • L’Oréal, CoverGirl, and Revlon shine for lip makeup
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 65: Top 10 brands of lipstick/lip gloss used, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Influence on Product Selection

                                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                • Sampling efforts a top consideration, and young women most readily influenced
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 66: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                  • New types of makeup benefit most from incentives
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 67: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by face makeup usage, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                • Importance of Product Qualities

                                                                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Multifunctional products will likely appeal to older women
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 68: Influence on cosmetic selection—very important, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Users of specific ingredients and formulations rely on a range of influences
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 69: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by important product qualities, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Using partnerships and product packaging to tout manufacturer initiatives
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 70: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by important product qualities, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Attitudes toward Wearing Makeup

                                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Makeup as an image booster
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 71: Makeup attitudes, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Users of expensive and designer makeup have stronger attitudes about wearing cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 72: Makeup attitudes, by makeup attitudes, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Race and Hispanic Origin

                                                                                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Black women use makeup significantly less; Hispanics hold promise on many levels
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 73: Always wear any of the following cosmetic products, by race/Hispanic origin, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 74: Influence on cosmetic selection—very important, by race/Hispanic origin, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 75: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by race/Hispanic origin, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 76: Makeup attitudes, by race/Hispanic origin, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Custom Consumer Groups: Moms

                                                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Moms wear more makeup
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 77: Always wear any of the following cosmetic products, by parent status, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 78: Influence on cosmetic selection—very important, by parent status, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Moms more likely to be influenced by a wide range of factors
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 79: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by parent status, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Moms treat themselves with makeup
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 80: Makeup behaviors, by parent status, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 81: Makeup attitudes, by parent status, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Teen Makeup Usage

                                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Opportunity to use mother/daughter connection for makeup
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 82: Types of foundation used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 83: Top 10 Brands of foundation used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 84: Top 10 Brands of blusher used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 85: Top 10 Brands of mascara used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 86: Types of lipstick/lip gloss used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 87: Top 10 Brands of lipstick/lip gloss used, among teens, by age, October 2010-November 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                          • SymphonyIRI Group Builders Panel Data

                                                                                                                                                                                              • Overview of eye cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Mascara
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Consumer insights on key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Brand map
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 88: Brand map, selected brands of mascara buying rate, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Brand leader characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 89: Key purchase measures for the top brands of mascara, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Overview of facial cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Foundation
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Consumer insights on key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Brand map
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 90: Brand map, selected brands of foundation buying rate, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Brand leader characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 91: Key purchase measures for the top brands of foundation, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Overview of lip cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Lipstick
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Consumer insights on key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Brand map
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 92: Brand map, selected brands of lipstick buying rate, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Brand leader characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 93: Key purchase measures for the top brands of lipstick, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Lip gloss
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Consumer insights on key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Brand map
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 94: Brand map, selected brands of lip gloss buying rate, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Brand leader characteristics
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Key purchase measures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 95: Key purchase measures for the top brands of lip gloss, by household penetration, 52 weeks ending June 26, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix—Additional Consumer Tables

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 96: Always wear any of the following cosmetic products, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 97: Wear any of the following cosmetic products, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 98: Makeup behaviors, by household income, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 99: Eye shadow purchase locations, by age, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 100: Eye shadow purchase locations, by household income, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 101: Wear any of the following cosmetic products, by household income, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 102: Influence on trying new makeup product or brand, by important product qualities, March 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix—SymphonyIRI Builders Panel Data Definitions

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • SymphonyIRI Consumer Network Metrics
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Appendix—Trade Associations

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Avon USA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • CVS Caremark Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Food and Drug Administration
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Groupon, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • HSN Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Inc. (ICMAD)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • J C Penney Company, Inc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Johnson & Johnson
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Kmart Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • L'Oréal USA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • National Cosmetology Association (NCA)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Nordstrom
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Personal Care Products Council
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Procter & Gamble USA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • QVC
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Revlon USA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Saks Hair and Beauty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Sephora
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • The Neiman Marcus Group Inc

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Color Cosmetics - US - July 2012

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                £3,199.84 (Excl.Tax)