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Colour Cosmetics - China - September 2014

“Given consumers’ repertoire behaviour in colour cosmetics, there is a high possibility they use several products at the same time or switch brands very often. Therefore, brand awareness is still important, even if shoppers do not think about one brand frequently. It is also crucial to ensure that there is enough in-store marketing to remind shoppers each time when they are selecting a brand.

Make-up brands need to innovate, renovate and promote throughout the year, while portfolio management is essential. Brands need to maximise the value of their “hero” products while eliminating ineffective advertising of poorly-performing SKUs.

Considering most consumers wear make-up occasionally brands need to continuously create visual content that associate with a specific occasion: one minute daily fresh-up, three minutes touch up for office lady, 10 minutes for party look, or 20 minutes for a date.”
– Wenwen Chen, Research Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • How to counter consumer’s fading loyalty to one brand
  • How to create new looks
  • How to convert non-users
  • Can BB cream replace moisturiser?

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Research scope
        • Colour cosmetics products included:
          • Product definition in different sections
            • Methodology
              • Limitation
                • Abbreviations
                • Executive Summary

                    • A fast evolving market
                      • Figure 1: China colour cosmetics market value in RMB, 2009-14
                      • Figure 2: Best- and worst-case forecast of China retail value sales of colour cosmetics, 2009-19
                    • High penetration and repertoire behaviour
                      • Figure 3: Repertoire behaviour by category, June 2014
                    • Associate make-up styles with different occasions
                      • Figure 4: Usage occasion, June 2014
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                        • How to counter consumer’s fading loyalty to one brand
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                              • How to create new looks
                                • The facts
                                  • The implications
                                    • How to convert non-users
                                      • The facts
                                        • The implications
                                          • Can BB cream replace moisturiser?
                                            • The facts
                                              • The implications
                                              • Trend Applications

                                                • Life Hacking
                                                  • Mood to Order
                                                    • Return to the Expert
                                                    • Market Size and Forecast

                                                      • Key points
                                                        • A rapidly evolving market
                                                          • Figure 5: China colour cosmetics market value in local currency, 2009-14
                                                        • Market drivers
                                                          • Growing disposable income
                                                            • Figure 6: Per capita income level in rural and urban, China, 2008-13
                                                          • E-commerce revolution powering consumption
                                                            • Era of Her
                                                              • Turn pollution threat into opportunities
                                                                • Figure 7: Example of smog in Shanghai, December 6th 2013
                                                              • Market forecast
                                                                • Figure 8: Best- and worst-case forecast of China retail value sales of colour cosmetics, 2009-19
                                                              • New generation of foundation fuels up the segment growth
                                                                • Figure 9: Best- and worst-case forecast of China retail value sales of facial foundation and make-up, 2009-19
                                                              • Forecast methodology
                                                              • Market Segmentation and Market Share

                                                                • Key points
                                                                  • Face make-up segment dominates the market
                                                                    • Figure 10: China colour cosmetics market segmentation in value, 2009-13
                                                                    • Figure 11: Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture range making headlines, Q4 2012
                                                                  • L’Oréal rules while local brands are gaining competitive edge.
                                                                    • Figure 12: Company share by value, 2009-13
                                                                • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • Lip shades lead new product launches
                                                                      • Figure 13: New product launches in colour cosmetics, % share by category, 2009-13
                                                                    • Blurred lines: make-up or skincare
                                                                      • Face
                                                                        • Lips
                                                                          • Eye
                                                                            • Crossover: Make-up or fashion
                                                                                • Figure 14: Estée Lauder’ s collaboration with catwalk beauty range from left to right: Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Tory Burch, 2014
                                                                              • K-Beauty Storm continues
                                                                                • Figure 15: Get k-beauty on Youku from July 2013
                                                                                • Figure 16: Etude House Precious Mineral Magic, may 2014
                                                                              • Make-up goes high tech
                                                                                • Magic mirror
                                                                                    • Figure 17: Make-up Genius will enable consumers to test make-up products using their mobile phone or tablet
                                                                                  • Mink
                                                                                  • Companies and Brands

                                                                                    • L’Oréal
                                                                                      • Company finance
                                                                                        • Figure 18: L’Oréal annual report, 2013
                                                                                      • Company performance and strategy in China
                                                                                        • Make-up products portfolio and positioning in China
                                                                                          • Figure 19: L’Oréal make-up portfolio in China, 1992-2013
                                                                                        • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                          • Estée Lauder
                                                                                            • Company financials
                                                                                              • Figure 20: Company report, three months ended December 31 2013
                                                                                            • Company performance and strategy in China
                                                                                              • Make-up products portfolio and positioning in China
                                                                                                • Figure 21: Estée Lauder make-up portfolio in China, 1993-2013
                                                                                              • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                • Figure 22: Liu Wen was the first Asian model hired as a face of Estée Lauder
                                                                                              • Procter & Gamble
                                                                                                • Company financials
                                                                                                  • Figure 23: 2013 P&G annual report, 2009-13
                                                                                                • Company performance and strategy in China
                                                                                                  • Make-up products portfolio and positioning in China
                                                                                                    • Figure 24: P&G make-up portfolio in china 1989-2013
                                                                                                  • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                    • LVMH
                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                        • Figure 25: 2013 LVMH annual report, 2011-13
                                                                                                        • Figure 26: 2013 LVMH annual report, 2011-13
                                                                                                      • Company performance and strategy in China
                                                                                                        • Make-up products portfolio and positioning in China
                                                                                                          • Figure 27: LVMH make-up portfolio in China, 1989-2013
                                                                                                        • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                            • Figure 28: Guerlain launched a KISSKISS法式诱惑一吻定情 topic on Weibo, Q2 2014
                                                                                                        • The Consumer – Current Skin Problems

                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                            • Dull skin concerns support the rise of “CC cream”
                                                                                                              • Figure 29: Current skin problem, June 2014
                                                                                                              • Figure 30: CC creams launched during 2012-13 in china from left to right: Olay, Estée Lauder, Biotherm, Origins
                                                                                                            • Anti-ageing on the rise
                                                                                                              • Figure 31: Current skin problem comparison 2013 vs 2014
                                                                                                              • Figure 32: Clinique Even Better Essence range, Q4 2013
                                                                                                            • Multiple skin problems need a “Hero”
                                                                                                              • Figure 33: Repertoire of current skin problems, June 2014
                                                                                                              • Figure 34: Current skin problem by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                              • Figure 35: Laneige BB Cushion Pore Control SPF 50+ PA+++ Q1 2014
                                                                                                              • Figure 36: Touche Éclat Radiant Touch, the iconic one-for-all highlight pen, Q2 2014
                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Usage

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Usage
                                                                                                                • A solid make-up regime
                                                                                                                  • Figure 37: Colour cosmetics usage in the past six months, June 2014
                                                                                                                • K-beauty drives red lip sensation
                                                                                                                  • Figure 38: Comparison in any usage 2013 July vs 2014 June 2014
                                                                                                                  • Figure 39: Lanchen team up with Jun Ji-hyun
                                                                                                                • Income define the sophistication
                                                                                                                  • Recognise the city disparity
                                                                                                                    • Figure 40: Colour cosmetics usage by cities, June 2014
                                                                                                                  • Repertoire behaviour
                                                                                                                    • Most consumers switch between several familiar brands in all colour cosmetics categories
                                                                                                                      • Figure 41: Repertoire behaviour by category, June 2014
                                                                                                                    • Portfolio management: Hero products and new shades
                                                                                                                      • Figure 42: Repertoire behaviour, June 2014
                                                                                                                      • Figure 43: Some of the best known hero products that create long term loyalty from left to right: Guerlain’s Météorites Perles; Marie Dalgar mascara
                                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Routine

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • A good complexion means everything
                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Routine preference, June 2014
                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Frequency of use of make-up products, July 2013
                                                                                                                      • Mascara for the youngsters, lipstick for everyone
                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: Routine preference, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                      • Every city has its own colour of beauty
                                                                                                                        • Figure 47: Routine preference, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                        • Figure 48: Routine preference, by demographics, June 2014 (continued)
                                                                                                                    • The Consumer – Usage Occasion

                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                        • Associate make-up styles with different occasions
                                                                                                                          • Figure 49: Usage occasion, June 2014
                                                                                                                        • Get the look
                                                                                                                            • Figure 50: Usage occasion, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                          • Make you feel good
                                                                                                                            • Figure 51: Usage occasion, june 2014
                                                                                                                            • Figure 52: Karl Lagerfeld for Shu Uemura collection for Christmas, Q4 2012
                                                                                                                          • Wear to impress
                                                                                                                            • Figure 53: Usage occasion by ages, June 2014
                                                                                                                          • Wear to be successful
                                                                                                                            • Figure 54: Usage occasion by ages, June 2014
                                                                                                                            • Figure 55: TV drama divorce lawyers has created visual content for make-up brands to promote office make-up
                                                                                                                            • Figure 56: Usage occasion by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                          • Chengdu, new champion for fashion
                                                                                                                            • Figure 57: Usage occasion by cities, June 2014
                                                                                                                          • Higher income earners more likely to wear make-up daily
                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Usage occasion by ages, June 2014
                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Usage occasion by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                        • The Consumer – Non-usage

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Most non-users consider wearing make-up a complex process
                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Make-up users vs non-users in the last six months, June 2014
                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Reasons for not using colour cosmetics, June 2014
                                                                                                                              • Figure 62: Lancôme team up with singer Zhou Bichuang, Q1 2014
                                                                                                                            • Conversion from an early stage
                                                                                                                            • The Consumer – Channel Usage

                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                • Higher income earners drive the popularity of high-end channels
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 63: Purchase channel, June 2014
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 64: Purchase channel by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                • Taobao/Tmall leads online shopping
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 65: Purchase channel online, June 2014
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 66: China online retailer market share in value, 2013
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 67: Purchase channel online by ages, June 2014
                                                                                                                                • Blurring channel boundary
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 68: Repertoire of purchase channel, June 2014
                                                                                                                                • Omnichannel experience for higher income earners
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 69: Repertoire of purchase channel by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                • City specific geographical business solution
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 70: Purchase channel, by cities, June 2014
                                                                                                                                  • e-tail revolution in low tier cities
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 71: Purchase channel, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                • The Consumer – Brand Preference

                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                    • Western brands take the crown
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 72: Brand preference, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 73: Laneige Snow BB Soothing Cushion and the Etude House Precious Mineral Any Cushion are expected to become the next hits in china, q1 2014
                                                                                                                                    • Incomes define preference
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 74: Foundation preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 75: Eye shadow preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 76: Mascara shadow preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 77: Lipstick preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                    • Availability is the key to recruit low income shoppers without brand preference
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 78: Brand preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 79: Brand preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 80: Brand preference by incomes, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 81: Sephora Paint Rio in Neon Nail Polish Kit, Q2 2014
                                                                                                                                    • City difference
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 82: foundation brand preference by cities, June 2014
                                                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Category Association

                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                      • Can BB cream replace moisturiser?
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 83: Category benefit-association, June 2014
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 84: Correspondence map analysis, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • BB cream remains popular to high income earners
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 85: Category benefit-association, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                      • Foundation products increase the ease to use
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 86: Estée Lauder CyberWhite Brightening Make-up Base acts as a make-up base while such product do not exist in the west while it is replace by make-up primer
                                                                                                                                        • Market gap for primer products
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 87: Dr. Feelgood Velvety Complexion Balm and The POREfessional Pro Balm
                                                                                                                                          • Methodology
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Profile

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 88: Current skin problem, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 89: Most popular current skin problem, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 90: Next most popular current skin problem, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                            • Repertoire analysis
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 91: Repertoire of current skin problem, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 92: Repertoire of current skin problem, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Behaviour – Habit

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 93: Repertoire behaviour, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 94: Repertoire behaviour – Foundation, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 95: Repertoire behaviour – Face powder, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 96: Repertoire behaviour – Concealer, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 97: Repertoire behaviour – Blusher, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 98: Repertoire behaviour – Mascara/lash serum, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 99: Repertoire behaviour – Eye shadow, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 100: Repertoire behaviour – Eye liner, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 101: Repertoire behaviour – Eyebrow definer, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 102: Repertoire behaviour – Lipstick, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 103: Repertoire behaviour – Lip gloss, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 104: Repertoire behaviour – Lip liner, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 105: Repertoire behaviour – Nail polish, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Barrier of Usage

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 106: Reasons for not using colour cosmetics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Behaviour – Routine

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 107: Routine preference, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 108: Most popular routine preference, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 109: Next most popular routine preference, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The consumer – Behaviour – Occasion

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 110: Usage occasion, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 111: Most popular usage occasion, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 112: Next most popular usage occasion, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Behaviour – Channel Usage

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 113: Purchase channel, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 114: Most popular purchase channel, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 115: Next most popular purchase channel, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 116: Other purchase channel, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                            • Repertoire analysis
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 117: Repertoire of purchase channel, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Brand Preference

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 118: Brand preference, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 119: Brand preference – Foundation, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 120: Brand preference – Eye shadow, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 121: Brand preference – Mascara, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 122: Brand preference – Lipstick, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – The Consumer – Category Association

                                                                                                                                              • Figure 123: Category benefit-association, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 124: Most popular category benefit-association – Facial moisturiser, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 125: Next most popular category benefit-association – Facial moisturiser, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 126: Most popular category benefit-association – BB cream, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 127: Next most popular category benefit-association – BB cream, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 128: Most popular category benefit-association – Foundation, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 129: Next most popular category benefit-association – Foundation, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 130: Most popular category benefit-association – Block sheer, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 131: Next most popular category benefit-association – Block sheer, by demographics, June 2014
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 132: Repertoire of purchase channel, by demographics, June 2014

                                                                                                                                          Companies Covered

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                                                                                                                                          Colour Cosmetics - China - September 2014

                                                                                                                                          US $3,990.00 (Excl.Tax)