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Designer/Upmarket Clothing - UK - March 2010

This report examines consumer attitudes towards designer brands and high-end clothing retailers. By asking consumers to classify themselves in broad terms according to their wardrobe and where they buy most of their clothing we can examine attitudes and purchasing behaviour based on their relative levels of expenditure on clothing, ie whether they are a value, mid-market or high-end/designer shopper. Note – this report excludes the responses of value shoppers.

  • The premium clothing sector has been less impacted by the recession than the market as a whole. But the more ‘basic’ area of designer/upmarket high street clothing – everyday items – has been more impacted where consumers are happy to mix and match with mid-market items.
  • The designer wear market has substantial scope to encourage trading up from upmarket high street clothing: only one in five people buy some designer clothing whereas almost two in five buy some upmarket high street clothing.
  • Demonstrating a level of devotion rarely seen in any other clothing sector, more than one in ten buyers say they have made sacrifices in other areas of spend, such as holidays, so they can afford designer clothes.
  • Counter-intuitively, men are twice as likely as women to buy both designer clothing. whereas women are keener mid-market shoppers justifying purchases on the basis of physical qualities such as style, cut, fabric and quality.
  • Collaborations between designers, celebrities and high street retailers are now well established. But few collaborations include much, if any, menswear: an opportunity going forward as men are greater designer buyers than women.
  • Designer clothing – and to a slightly lesser extent upmarket high street clothing – may be fairly insulated from issues with the wider economy. Buyers are a small niche group and the market continues to be buoyed by international travellers.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

    • Main themes
      • Key issues
        • Definition
          • Abbreviations
          • Future Opportunities

            • Not just names and faces – but (secret) places and spaces
              • Expect the unexpected
                • Hide and seek
                  • Spotlighting the extreme
                    • Cult of the vagabond
                      • Give us back our homeless
                      • Market in Brief

                        • Small market, but men are keenest
                            • Figure 1: Where clothing is purchased, by gender, February 2010
                          • Gender attitude differences
                            • Opportunity of middle youth
                              • Figure 2: Percentage of total population aged 25-54, by age group, 2004-14
                            • Designer buyers are keen on the mid-market too
                              • Figure 3: What designer clothing buyers buy, and where from, February 2010
                            • Major influences on purchasing behaviour
                              • Popularity of high street celebrity/designer collaborations
                                • Entry-level opportunities
                                  • Barriers to buying designer/high-end clothes
                                    • Impact of the recession
                                      • Future prospects
                                        • Figure 4: Attitudes towards buying clothes in the year ahead, February 2010
                                    • Internal Market Environment

                                      • Key point
                                        • Consumer spending
                                          • Womenswear spending vs menswear spending
                                            • Figure 5: Expenditure on womenswear and menswear £100-149 and £150-199, 2006-09
                                            • Figure 6: Expenditure on womenswear and menswear £200-299 and £300+, 2006-09
                                          • Womenswear
                                            • Figure 7: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
                                          • Menswear
                                            • Figure 8: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
                                          • Trends in attitudes towards personal appearance, fashion and clothing
                                            • Attitudes towards appearance
                                              • Figure 9: Trends in attitudes towards appearance, 2004-09
                                            • Attitudes towards fashion and clothing
                                              • Figure 10: Trends in attitudes towards fashion and clothing, 2004-09
                                            • Attitudes towards buying clothing
                                              • Figure 11: Trends in attitudes towards buying clothing, 2004-09
                                            • Attitudes towards buying clothes by demographics
                                              • Figure 12: Key demographic differences in selected attitudes towards appearance, fashion and clothing, 2009
                                          • Broader Market Environment

                                            • Key points
                                              • Population by socio-economic group
                                                • Figure 13: Trends in the socio-economic structure of the UK adult population, 2004-09 and 2009-14
                                              • Population by age
                                                • Figure 14: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2004-14
                                                • Figure 15: Percentage of total population aged 25-54, by age group, 2004-14
                                              • Population by lifestage
                                                • Figure 16: Trends in the lifestage structure of the UK adult population, 2004-14
                                              • Price deflation in clothing
                                                • Figure 17: Implied price deflator, clothing, garments, percentage change, quarter on corresponding quarter of previous year, Q1 2006-Q3 2009
                                              • UK residents travelling abroad
                                                • Figure 18: Number of overseas visits by UK residents, by region visited, 2003-08
                                              • UK residents holidaying at home – the ‘staycation’ phenomenon
                                                • Figure 19: Domestic holidays, volume and expenditure, 2004-11
                                            • Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

                                              • Strengths
                                                • Weaknesses
                                                • Who’s Innovating?

                                                  • Key points
                                                    • Lee Alexander McQueen CBE, 1969-2010
                                                      • Designer/Retailer Collaborations
                                                        • Designers and celebrities
                                                          • Designers and sport
                                                            • Entering the digital era
                                                              • Live streaming of designer fashion shows
                                                                • Armani goes online
                                                                  • New launches
                                                                    • Ted Baker launches diffusion line
                                                                      • Gucci to launch a couture line?
                                                                        • Boss Green adds womenswear
                                                                          • Mark Fast diffusion line
                                                                            • CH Carolina Herrera first London shop
                                                                              • Advertising initiatives
                                                                                • Family values for Missoni
                                                                                  • Versace chooses Jagger daughter
                                                                                    • Calvin Klein using four hunks
                                                                                      • Cristiano Ronaldo modelling for Emporio Armani Underwear and Armani Jeans
                                                                                        • Revival initiatives
                                                                                          • Fashion and art
                                                                                            • Fashion and film/TV
                                                                                              • Menswear market
                                                                                                • Designers get in touch with customers
                                                                                                  • Roland Mouret enters sector
                                                                                                    • Boy Zones – new menswear stores
                                                                                                      • Luxury brands focus on their heritage
                                                                                                        • Taking control
                                                                                                        • Competitive Context

                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                              • Figure 20: Performance of designer and upmarket clothing compared to all clothing, 2006-14
                                                                                                            • Total clothing market overview
                                                                                                              • Designer/upmarket clothing spend
                                                                                                                • Insights from trade interviews
                                                                                                                  • Consumer behaviour
                                                                                                                    • Consumer attitudes
                                                                                                                      • Figure 21: Attitudes towards shopping now compared to one year ago, February 2010
                                                                                                                      • Figure 22: Attitude towards buying clothes in the year ahead, February 2010
                                                                                                                    • Forecast
                                                                                                                    • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                        • Top 25 designer/high-end brand spenders, 2005-09
                                                                                                                          • Figure 23: Main monitored media advertising expenditure, by designer/high-end brands, by level of spend in 2009, 2005-09
                                                                                                                        • Designer/high-end brand adspend trends
                                                                                                                          • Retailers’ advertising spending trends by total spend during 2005-09
                                                                                                                            • Figure 24: Main monitored media advertising expenditure, by retailer totals, 2005-09
                                                                                                                        • Designer/High-end Fashion Buyers’ Attitudes towards Buying Clothes

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Figure 25: Consumer attitudes towards buying clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                          • Designer/high-end fashion buyers’ attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, 2009
                                                                                                                            • Figure 26: Consumer attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                          • Factors influencing where designer/high-end fashion buyers purchase clothes, 2009
                                                                                                                            • Figure 27: Factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, December 2009
                                                                                                                        • Who are the Designer and Upmarket Clothing Buyers?

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Segmenting consumers by clothing retailer
                                                                                                                              • What are consumers buying and from which type of store?
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 28: Place of purchase of designer clothing, by gender, February 2010
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 29: Clothes purchasing, by type of clothes and type of retailer, February 2010
                                                                                                                                • High-end designer clothing shoppers – who they are and what they buy
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 30: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                • Men are keener than women on designer clothes
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 31: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by gender, February 2010
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 32: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                • Upmarket high street clothing shoppers – who they are and what they buy
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 33: Type of garments bought from upmarket high street retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                • Men are still keener than women, apart from formalwear
                                                                                                                                  • Opportunity to target C2s
                                                                                                                                    • Mid-market clothing buyers – who they are and what they buy
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 34: Type of garments bought from mid-market clothing retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                    • What are high-end designer shoppers also buying?
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 35: Other outlets where designer buyers shop, by type of clothing, February 2010
                                                                                                                                  • What Motivates Designer and Upmarket Clothing Buyers to Shop?

                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                      • Consumer buying motivations
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 36: Motivations to buy clothes (netted), by buyer group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 37: Motivations to buy clothes, by buyer group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                      • Factors that designer and upmarket buyers have in common…
                                                                                                                                        • …and how they differ
                                                                                                                                        • Where is High-end Designer Clothing Bought?

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                            • Department stores rule, but almost all channels have suffered cutbacks
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 38: Stores where high-end designer clothes are bought, February 2010
                                                                                                                                            • Designer stores and online more insulated
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 39: Purchase of high-end designer clothes, by outlet type, gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                            • Missing out on the key 45-54 consumer sector…
                                                                                                                                              • …and the opportunity of the aspirational C2s
                                                                                                                                                • People who have bought high-end designer clothing in the last year
                                                                                                                                                  • Young men especially
                                                                                                                                                    • Financial constraints
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 40: Purchase of high-end designer clothes in last year, by outlet type, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                    • People who have bought high-end designer clothing, but longer than a year ago
                                                                                                                                                      • Women have cut back more than men
                                                                                                                                                        • Older age groups reprioritising spending away from clothes?
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 41: Purchase of high-end designer clothes more than one year ago, by outlet type, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • What high-end designer clothing is bought, and where from?
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 42: Types of high-end designer clothes bought, by outlet type, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • High Street Designer/Celebrity Ranges

                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                            • The rise of the high street designer collection
                                                                                                                                                              • Who buys high street designer/celebrity ranges?
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 43: Purchase of high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges, by buyer types, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 44: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges are bought, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                            • Attitudes towards Designer Clothes

                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 45: Attitudes towards designer clothes, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                • Positive attitudes: Who thinks what
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 46: Attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 47: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                • Further attitudes towards designer clothes
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: Attitudes towards designer clothes, by buyer type, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                  • Negative attitudes/barriers to buying designer clothes: Who thinks what
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: Barriers to buying designer clothes, by gender, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                  • Entry-level opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 51: Next most popular statements on designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                • Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 52: Target groups for designer clothes, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                  • Designer Status Seekers (22%)
                                                                                                                                                                    • Hard-up Admirers (21%)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Disinterested (57%)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 53: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 54: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Broader Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 55: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 56: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 57: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 58: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 59: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 60: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 61: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 62: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Where is High-end Designer Clothing Bought?

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 63: Bought different clothes from high-end designer, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 64: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 65: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 66: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 67: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 68: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 69: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 70: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 71: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 72: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 73: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – High Street Designer/Celebrity Ranges

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 74: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 75: Next most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 76: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 77: Next most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Attitudes towards Designer Clothes

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 78: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 79: Next most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 80: Most popular statements on designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 81: Next most popular statements on designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 82: Target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 83: Target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 84: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 85: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 86: Stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010

                                                                                                                                                                      Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                      • Aldi Stores Ltd (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • British Sky Broadcasting Group plc (BSkyB)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Burberry Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                      • Christian Dior
                                                                                                                                                                      • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Dolce & Gabbana
                                                                                                                                                                      • Duffer of St George
                                                                                                                                                                      • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                      • Gianni Versace S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                                      • Giorgio Armani S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                                      • Google UK
                                                                                                                                                                      • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                                      • Harvey Nichols UK
                                                                                                                                                                      • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                                      • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                                      • Karen Millen
                                                                                                                                                                      • Lidl (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                      • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                                      • Matalan Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Moss Bros Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                      • Mulberry Group
                                                                                                                                                                      • Net-A-Porter Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Peacocks
                                                                                                                                                                      • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Ralph Lauren Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Reebok International Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Roberto Cavalli
                                                                                                                                                                      • Selfridges Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • T-Mobile (UK) Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Ted Baker
                                                                                                                                                                      • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                                      • Tommy Hilfiger Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                      • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                                      • Twitter, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                      • Uniqlo UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Viktor & Rolf
                                                                                                                                                                      • Virgin Media Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                      • Virgin Mobile
                                                                                                                                                                      • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                                      • Wm Morrison Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                                      • YouTube, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                      • Yves Saint Laurent

                                                                                                                                                                      Designer/Upmarket Clothing - UK - March 2010

                                                                                                                                                                      US $2,478.79 (Excl.Tax)