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Ethnic Beauty - UK - October 2009

  • The 7.3 million strong ethnic population is growing faster than the white population in the UK. This expansion offers strong growth opportunities for cosmetics and toiletries products that target the UK’s non-white population.
  • Teenagers and pre-teens are more strongly represented within the ethnic community than amongst white people. Young people tend to be more experimental and are an important target group for beauty products.
  • 12% of the total population are non-whites, however, ethnic beauty products represent just 1% of all new haircare, skincare and make-up launches. The ethnic market has a long way to go to be brought in-line with the demographic make-up of the UK population.
  • Ethnic beauty brands show a lack of resources to fund above the line spend which is seeing a downward slide. When ethnic brands do advertise, they typically use the specialist press rather than mainstream glossies and this may be motivated by keeping costs down.
  • Most ethnic brands are sold through independent specialist retailers and through wholesalers. However, supermarkets are the number one place for non-white adults to buy cosmetics and toiletries. Mainstream retailers need to become more engaged with specialist manufacturers and brands.
  • Ethnic women, younger age groups and those on a higher income demonstrate the highest levels of interest in the cosmetics and toiletries sector and represent the key demographics to target new products at.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

      • Key themes
        • Definitions
        • Future Opportunities

          • Mixed up future
            • Issue isn’t black and white
              • Insight
                • The role of retailers
                  • No man is an island
                    • Insight
                    • Market in Brief

                      • Ethnic beauty remains of niche interest
                        • Opportunity amongst younger people
                          • Specialist brands are hard to come by
                            • Future
                            • Internal Market Environment

                              • Key points
                                • Age structure
                                  • Sense of identity
                                    • Physical differences in hair and skin
                                      • Importance of ethnic role models
                                      • Broader Market Environment

                                        • Key points
                                          • Demographics
                                            • Figure 1: UK population, by ethnicity, 2004-09
                                          • Ethnic fabric of the UK
                                            • Figure 2: National Insurance Number registrations to adult overseas nationals entering the UK, by year of registration and world area 2004-08
                                          • Regional distribution
                                            • Figure 3: Areas in England with high ethnic populations, by ethnicity, Mid-2007
                                          • Regulations
                                          • Competitive Context

                                            • Key points
                                              • Mainstream cosmetics and toiletries
                                                • Figure 4: Ethnic products as a proportion of total UK sales of beauty and personal care**, 2007-09
                                              • Not commercially viable
                                                • Afro dries up sales
                                                  • Illegal imports and unsafe products
                                                  • Strengths and Weaknesses

                                                    • Strengths
                                                      • Weaknesses
                                                      • Who’s Innovating?

                                                        • Key points
                                                          • NPD by category
                                                            • Figure 5: NPD activity in ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by category, January-July 2009
                                                          • Matching skin tone
                                                            • Leading innovators
                                                              • Product positioning of ethnic launches
                                                                • Figure 6: NPD activity in ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by leading positioning claims 2007-09
                                                              • Whitening
                                                                • Nourishing NPD
                                                                • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • Figure 7: UK retail value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, 2004-14
                                                                  • The future of the market
                                                                  • Segment Performance

                                                                    • Key points
                                                                      • Figure 8: UK retail value sales of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, 2004-14
                                                                    • Haircare
                                                                      • Skincare
                                                                        • Potential in make-up
                                                                        • Companies and Products

                                                                            • Figure 9: Innovators and advertisers in the UK ethnic cosmetics and toiletries market, 2004-09
                                                                          • L’Oréal Soft-Sheen Carson
                                                                            • M&M Cosmetics
                                                                              • Alberto Culver
                                                                                • Fashion Fair
                                                                                  • K by Beverley Knight
                                                                                    • Iman Cosmetics
                                                                                      • Sleek Makeup
                                                                                        • ET Browne
                                                                                          • Other brands
                                                                                          • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                              • Sporadic adspend stunts sales
                                                                                                • Figure 10: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, 2005-09
                                                                                              • Toni & Guy sends spend high
                                                                                                • Figure 11: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by quarter, 2005-09
                                                                                              • Adspend apportioned differently to launch activity
                                                                                                • Figure 12: Advertising on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, January-July 2009
                                                                                              • Sleek spend
                                                                                                • Figure 13: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by advertiser, 2005-09
                                                                                              • Pressing matter
                                                                                                • Figure 14: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by media type, 2005-09
                                                                                              • PR and sponsorship
                                                                                              • Channels to Market

                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                  • Specialist versus mainstream
                                                                                                    • Independent ethnic retailers
                                                                                                      • Department stores
                                                                                                        • High street chemists and drugstores
                                                                                                          • Online
                                                                                                          • Use of Haircare, Skincare and Make-up by All Adults

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Haircare
                                                                                                                • Figure 15: Use of haircare products in the last 12 months, by type of products used, 2004-09
                                                                                                              • Age bias
                                                                                                                • Skincare
                                                                                                                  • Figure 16: Use of skincare products in the last 12 months, by type of products used, 2004-09
                                                                                                                • Bias toward upper income earners
                                                                                                                  • Suncare usage weak amongst the young
                                                                                                                    • Make-up
                                                                                                                      • Figure 17: Use of make-up products, by type of products used, 2004-09
                                                                                                                  • The Ethnic Haircare Consumer

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • Purchasing habits for haircare
                                                                                                                        • Figure 18: Ethnic haircare purchasing habits, August 2009
                                                                                                                      • Influence of men
                                                                                                                        • Convenience of the supermarket
                                                                                                                          • Going to great lengths to get haircare
                                                                                                                          • The Ethnic Skincare Consumer

                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                              • Purchasing habits for skincare
                                                                                                                                • Figure 19: Ethnic skincare purchasing habits, August 2009
                                                                                                                              • Mainstream preference
                                                                                                                                • Women more interested in specialist brands
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 20: Skincare purchasing habits of ethnic men and women, specialist vs mainstream, August 2009
                                                                                                                                • Non-users of skincare
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 21: Ethnic non-users of skincare, by gender and age, August 2009
                                                                                                                              • The Ethnic Make-up Consumer

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • Make-up purchasing habits
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 22: Ethnic make-up purchasing habits, August 2009
                                                                                                                                  • Brand loyalty within make-up
                                                                                                                                    • Supermarkets not specialist enough for ABC1s
                                                                                                                                      • ABC1s more choosy
                                                                                                                                      • The Ethnic Consumer – Purchase Behaviour

                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                          • Mainstream brands most popular
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 23: Purchase of specialist and mainstream brands (nets) across haircare, skincare and make-up sectors, August 2009
                                                                                                                                          • Where do ethnic consumers shop?
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 24: Where ethnic consumers buy their cosmetics and toiletries (nets), August 2009
                                                                                                                                          • Purchasing habits
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 25: Repertoire of where ethnic consumers buy their cosmetics and toiletries (nets), August 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 26: Where ethnic population buys cosmetics and toiletries from by number of types of place that products are bought from (nets), August 2009
                                                                                                                                        • Appendix

                                                                                                                                          • Consumer research
                                                                                                                                            • ACORN
                                                                                                                                              • Advertising data
                                                                                                                                                • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix – Broader Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 27: The population of England, by broad ethnicity, 2001-07*
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix – Usage of Haircare, Skincare and Make-up Amongst All Adults

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 28: Usage types of haircare products, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 29: Usage of haircare products, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 30: Usage of skincare products, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 31: Usage of skincare products, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 32: Usage of make-up products, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix – The Ethnic Haircare Consumer

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 33: Ethnic haircare purchase habits, by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix – The Ethnic Skincare Consumer

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 34: Where buy skin care products, by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix – The Ethnic Make-up Consumer

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 35: Make-up purchasing habits of non-white women, by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 36: Make-up purchasing habits of non-white women, by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                • Appendix: The Ethnic Consumer – Purchase Behaviour

                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 37: Where buy from, by specialist and mainstream brands (nets), August 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 38: Specialist and mainstream brands (nets), by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 39: Purchase of ethnic cosmetics and toiletries, by demographics, August 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 40: Repertoire of purchasing habits (nets), by demographics, August 2009

                                                                                                                                                Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                • Alberto-Culver Company (UK)
                                                                                                                                                • Alliance Boots
                                                                                                                                                • Avon Cosmetics Ltd
                                                                                                                                                • British Market Research Bureau (BMRB)
                                                                                                                                                • Clinique Laboratories Ltd (UK)
                                                                                                                                                • Daggett & Ramsdell
                                                                                                                                                • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                • Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (The)
                                                                                                                                                • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                • Fashion Fair Cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                • Food and Drug Administration
                                                                                                                                                • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                • IMAN Cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                • John Lewis Plc (department store)
                                                                                                                                                • L'Oréal (UK)
                                                                                                                                                • Lancôme
                                                                                                                                                • Luster Products Co.
                                                                                                                                                • M&M Cosmetics Ltd
                                                                                                                                                • Olay Company, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                • Outdoor Advertising Association of Great Britain
                                                                                                                                                • OXFAM
                                                                                                                                                • Procter & Gamble UK & Ireland
                                                                                                                                                • Revlon Group Ltd (UK)
                                                                                                                                                • Selfridges Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                • Sleek International Ltd
                                                                                                                                                • SoftSheen Carson
                                                                                                                                                • Superdrug Stores Plc
                                                                                                                                                • Toni & Guy
                                                                                                                                                • YouTube, Inc.

                                                                                                                                                Ethnic Beauty - UK - October 2009

                                                                                                                                                £1,995.00 (Excl.Tax)