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Footwear Retailing - UK - July 2015

“The footwear sector is exceptionally fragmented with footwear specialists losing share to non-specialists, as clothing retailers, sports stores and pureplays all grow their focus on the market. Specialists can use their expertise in the market to stand out by providing exceptional customer service and a wider range of shoes in different size options including narrow and wide fit.”
– Tamara Sender, Senior Fashion Analyst

This report answers the following key questions:

  • Which retailers are emerging as the winners of 2015?
  • What are the main opportunities for growth in the footwear market?
  • How can retailers use technology to improve the shopping experience?

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

      • Definitions
      • Executive Summary

          • Footwear sales grow 6.5% in 2015
            • Figure 1: UK footwear sales best- and worst-case forecast, 2010-20
          • Footwear specialists take 44% share
            • Figure 2: Distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2015 (est)
          • Young fashion footwear specialists lead
            • Figure 3: Leading footwear specialists: Compound annual growth rates in net revenues 2010-13*
          • Clarks seen as reliable
            • Figure 4: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, May 2015
          • Footwear sector is fragmented
            • Figure 5: Footwear retailers bought from in last 12 months, online and in-store May 2015
          • One in ten women dissatisfied with shoe size options
            • Figure 6: How satisfied consumers are when shopping for footwear, May 2015
          • Women continue to opt for flats, while men choose trainers
            • Figure 7: Percentage of women who have bought shoes from each shoe category, May 2015
          • Using latest designs to drive footwear sales
            • Figure 8: Most important factors when buying shoes for yourself, May 2015
          • Helping female customers with fit
            • Figure 9: What would improve the shopping experience when buying footwear in-store or online, May 2015
          • What we think
          • Issues and Insights

            • Which retailers are emerging as the winners of 2015?
              • The facts
                • The implications
                  • What are the main opportunities for growth in the footwear market?
                    • The facts
                      • The implications
                        • How can retailers use technology to improve the shopping experience?
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                            • The Market – What You Need to Know

                              • Robust growth
                                • Footwear spend grows ahead of clothing
                                  • Deflation in the consumer prices of footwear
                                    • Aging population presents an opportunity
                                      • Feet are getting bigger and wider
                                      • Market Size and Forecast

                                          • Figure 10: UK footwear sales at current prices, 2010-20
                                        • Footwear to grow 30% by 2020
                                          • Figure 11: UK footwear sales. best- and worst-case forecast, 2010-20
                                        • Market segmentation
                                          • Figure 12: UK footwear sales segmented by market value and percentage share, 2015 (est)
                                        • Opportunities for children’s footwear market
                                          • Figure 13: UK footwear sales segmented by women, men and children, % share, 2015 (est)
                                      • Market Drivers

                                        • Economic environment
                                          • Women purchase more clothing and footwear than men
                                            • Figure 14: Spending habits for clothing, footwear and accessories, by gender, March 2015
                                          • Footwear spend grows ahead of clothing
                                            • Figure 15: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (including VAT), 2010-14
                                          • Consumer prices
                                            • Figure 16: Consumer prices index annual % change for footwear, clothing and all items, Sep 2014-May 2015
                                          • Aging population presents an opportunity
                                            • Figure 17: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2009-19
                                          • Obesity levels have plateaued
                                            • Figure 18: Proportion of overweight and obese population, 2005-13
                                          • Feet are getting bigger and wider
                                            • Women suffer more foot problems than men
                                            • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                              • Footwear specialists account for 44% of the market
                                                • 17.1% of sales to be made online
                                                  • Impressive growth from Hotter Shoes
                                                    • Clarks suffers a challenging year
                                                      • Sports Direct leads the non-specialists
                                                        • 3D printing being used to create tailored footwear
                                                        • Innovations

                                                          • 3D printing creates custom-made shoes
                                                            • Reducing online returns using 3D scanning
                                                              • Wi-Fi and tablets link digital and physical
                                                                • Children’s shoes get fashionable
                                                                  • Schuh’s future-proofed store concept
                                                                    • Mobile app to drive engagement
                                                                      • Drone delivery pop-up launch
                                                                        • Independent retailer taps into the trend for sporty shoes
                                                                          • Catering for the aging population
                                                                            • Shoes that feel as good as they look
                                                                            • Leading Specialist Retailers

                                                                                • Figure 19: Leading footwear specialists: Compound annual growth rates in net revenues 2010-13*
                                                                              • Sales
                                                                                • Figure 20: Leading footwear specialists: Revenues, 2010-14
                                                                              • Stores
                                                                                  • Figure 21: Leading footwear specialists: Outlet numbers, 2010-14
                                                                                • Sales per outlet
                                                                                  • Figure 22: Leading footwear specialists: Sales per outlet, 2010-14
                                                                                • Operating profits and margins
                                                                                  • Figure 23: Leading footwear specialists: Operating profits, 2010-14
                                                                                  • Figure 24: Leading footwear specialists: Operating margins, 2010-14
                                                                              • Leading Non-specialist Retailers

                                                                                • Leading non-specialists: Financial data
                                                                                  • Figure 25: Leading non-specialist retailers: estimated footwear sales (excluding VAT), 2013 and 2014
                                                                                • The consumer: Shopping at non-specialists
                                                                                  • Figure 26: Retailers that consumers have purchased footwear from in the last 12 months, May 2015
                                                                                • Leading non-specialists: Retail offering
                                                                                  • Figure 27: Leading non-specialist retailers: Positioning, offer and brands stocked, July 2015
                                                                              • Channels of Distribution

                                                                                • Footwear specialists take 44% share
                                                                                  • Figure 28: Distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2015 (est)
                                                                                  • Figure 29: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2014 and 2015
                                                                                • Specialists lose market share
                                                                                  • Figure 30: Estimated share of footwear spending taken by footwear specialists, 2010-15
                                                                              • Market Shares

                                                                                • Non-specialists lead
                                                                                  • Figure 31: Top ten retailers of footwear: market shares, 2014
                                                                                  • Figure 32: Top 20 retailers of footwear: market shares, 2012-14
                                                                              • Online

                                                                                • Online to account for 17.1% of footwear sales
                                                                                  • Figure 33: Online sales of footwear (including VAT), 2013-16
                                                                                • Distribution: Pureplays versus multichannel
                                                                                  • Figure 34: Estimated distribution of online sales (including VAT), 2014 and 2015 (est)
                                                                                • Online market leaders
                                                                                    • Figure 35: Leading online retailers: estimated net online revenues and online market shares, (excluding VAT), 2014
                                                                                  • The consumer: Where they shop online
                                                                                    • Figure 36: Retailers that consumers have purchased footwear from online in the last 12 months, May 2015
                                                                                • Space Allocation Summary

                                                                                    • Summary allocation overview
                                                                                      • Figure 37: Footwear retailers space allocation estimates, May 2015
                                                                                    • Detailed space allocation estimates
                                                                                      • Figure 38: Footwear retailers space allocation estimates, May 2015
                                                                                      • Figure 39: Footwear retailers space allocation estimates, May 2015
                                                                                  • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                    • Low growth in advertising spend
                                                                                      • Figure 40: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, 2011-14
                                                                                    • Top advertisers
                                                                                      • Figure 41: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by advertiser, 2011-14
                                                                                    • Media type
                                                                                      • Figure 42: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2011-14
                                                                                      • Figure 43: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2011-14
                                                                                    • A note on adspend
                                                                                    • Brand Research

                                                                                      • What you need to know
                                                                                        • Brand map
                                                                                          • Figure 44: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, May 2015
                                                                                        • Key brand metrics
                                                                                          • Figure 45: Key metrics for selected brands, May 2015
                                                                                        • Brand attitudes: Shoe Zone is defined by its low price
                                                                                          • Figure 46: Attitudes, by brand, May 2015
                                                                                        • Brand personality: Schuh and Office promote an upbeat brand image
                                                                                          • Figure 47: Brand personality – Macro image, May 2015
                                                                                        • Clarks represents a reliable option
                                                                                          • Figure 48: Brand personality – Micro image, May 2015
                                                                                        • Brand analysis
                                                                                          • Clarks generates usage through trust and reliability
                                                                                            • Figure 49: User profile of Clarks, May 2015
                                                                                          • Schuh has an upbeat and trendy brand image
                                                                                            • Figure 50: User profile of Schuh, May 2015
                                                                                          • Office shares similar traits as Schuh, but with a stronger 16-24 bias
                                                                                            • Figure 51: User profile of Office, May 2015
                                                                                          • Dune has lower awareness and a weaker brand image than others
                                                                                            • Figure 52: User profile of Dune, May 2015
                                                                                          • Russell & Bromley’s image of exclusivity and expense likely to limit usage
                                                                                            • Figure 53: User profile of Russell & Bromley, May 2015
                                                                                          • Shoe Zone’s value encourages usage despite certain negative traits
                                                                                            • Figure 54: User profile of Shoe Zone, May 2015
                                                                                        • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                          • Fragmented footwear sector
                                                                                            • Low average age of shoe buyer
                                                                                              • One in ten women dissatisfied with shoe size options
                                                                                                • Women continue to opt for flats
                                                                                                  • Using latest designs to drive footwear sales
                                                                                                    • Helping female customers with fit
                                                                                                      • Importance of click-and-collect
                                                                                                      • Who Shops Where

                                                                                                          • Figure 55: Footwear retailers bought from in last 12 months, online and in-store, May 2015
                                                                                                          • Figure 56: Leading footwear retailers: Profile of in-store and online shoppers, May 2015
                                                                                                          • Figure 57: Leading footwear retailers, Number of retailers used, In-store and online, May 2015
                                                                                                          • Figure 58: Profile of who buys from how many outlets, in-store and online, May 2015
                                                                                                      • Levels of Satisfaction When Shopping for Footwear

                                                                                                        • One in ten women dissatisfied with shoe size options
                                                                                                          • Figure 59: How satisfied consumers are when shopping for footwear, May 2015
                                                                                                        • Retailers need to monitor customer assistance
                                                                                                          • Figure 60: Key drivers of overall satisfaction with footwear retailers, May 2015
                                                                                                        • Fashion more of a priority when shopping online
                                                                                                          • Figure 61: Overall satisfaction with footwear retailers – Key driver output, May 2015
                                                                                                        • Overall satisfaction high but falls among men
                                                                                                            • Figure 62: Overall satisfaction with footwear retailers shopped at most often, May 2015
                                                                                                        • Types of Footwear Purchased

                                                                                                          • Women continue to opt for flats
                                                                                                            • Figure 63: Percentage of women who have bought shoes from each shoe category, May 2015
                                                                                                          • 25-34s most adventurous shoe shoppers
                                                                                                            • Figure 64: Repertoire of types of shoes bought by women, by age group, May 2015
                                                                                                          • Trainers become most popular male footwear
                                                                                                            • Figure 65: Percentage of men who have bought shoes from each shoe category, May 2015
                                                                                                        • Most Important Factors When Buying Shoes

                                                                                                          • Using latest designs to drive footwear sales
                                                                                                              • Figure 66: Most important factors when buying shoes for yourself, May 2015
                                                                                                            • Men under 44 focus on footwear brands
                                                                                                              • Figure 67: Most important factors when buying shoes for yourself, by gender, May 2015
                                                                                                            • Opportunities provided by older consumers
                                                                                                                • Figure 68: Most important factors when buying shoes for yourself, by age group, May 2015
                                                                                                            • What Would Improve the Shopping Experience

                                                                                                              • Helping female customers with fit
                                                                                                                  • Figure 69: What would improve the shopping experience when buying footwear in-store or online, May 2015
                                                                                                                • Young women keen on knowledgeable staff and style advice
                                                                                                                  • Importance of click-and-collect
                                                                                                                    • Figure 70: What would improve the shopping experience when buying footwear in-store or online, by gender, May 2015
                                                                                                                  • Using new store design and innovation to stand out
                                                                                                                  • C&J Clark Group

                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                        • Innovative in-store technology enhancing the customer experience
                                                                                                                          • Brand-building store concept
                                                                                                                            • More fashion-focused footwear
                                                                                                                              • Targeting overseas consumers with an eye for stylish British footwear
                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 71: C&J Clark Group: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 72: C&J Clark Group: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                    • Dune London

                                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                                          • New stores delivering double-digit sales growth
                                                                                                                                            • E-commerce sales benefiting from multichannel strategy
                                                                                                                                              • Lifestyle brand evolution
                                                                                                                                                • Appealing to American shoppers’ appetite for affordable upmarket European footwear brands
                                                                                                                                                  • Catering to local demand
                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 73: Dune Group: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                      • Ramping up overseas expansion
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 74: Dune Group: Estimated outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                      • Kurt Geiger

                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                            • Possible sale of the business
                                                                                                                                                              • Kid’s footwear
                                                                                                                                                                • Celebrity brand boost
                                                                                                                                                                  • Fashion accessories booming
                                                                                                                                                                    • Online sales success
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 75: Kurt Geiger Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 76: Kurt Geiger Ltd: Outlet data, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                        • Macintosh Retail Group (Brantano and A. Jones)

                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                              • UK businesses to be sold off
                                                                                                                                                                                • Brantano rolling out concessions
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Brantano
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 77: Brantano (UK): Financial performance, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 78: Brantano (UK) Outlet data, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Jones Bootmaker
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 79: A Jones & Sons PLC: Financial performance, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 80: A Jones & Sons PLC: Financial performance, 2010-14
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Brantano
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Jones Bootmaker
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Office Holdings

                                                                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Owner considering potential £300m float of Office
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Four distinct go-to specialist destinations
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Click-and-collect
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Multichannel offering to support German expansion
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Tapping into augmented reality to drive brand engagement
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 81: Office Holdings Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 82: Office Holdings Ltd: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Schuh

                                                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Giving the customer control
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • International expansion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 83: Schuh Ltd: Group financial performance, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 84: Schuh Ltd: Outlet data, 2010/11-2014/15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Shoe Zone Group

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Product range development focused
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Online growing well
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Store portfolio management
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • International plans
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 85: Shoe Zone Group Ltd: Group financial performance, 2009/10-2013/14
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 86: Shoe Zone Group Ltd: Outlet data, 2009/10-2013/14
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Abbreviations

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Footwear Retailing - UK - July 2015

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              US $2,478.79 (Excl.Tax)