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Fragrances - UK - August 2015

“The category as a whole has shown incremental growth in value in the past, and, despite a decline predicted in 2015, is likely to show growth again in the future. Improved financial situations and savvy shopping behaviours are driving down the value of the mass fragrance and body sprays segments as consumers prove more willing and able to trade up to prestige versions – albeit also at a discounted rate. Niche and artisan fragrances have the ability to drive growth further as buyers seek out more unusual scents, whilst the emergence of unisex fragrances that challenge gender expectations could further pique interest in the category.”
– Roshida Khanom, Senior Personal Care Analyst

This report discusses the following key topics:

  • New unisex launches challenge gender expectations 
  • Skin concerns could deter users
  • Stimulating the senses to market products
  • Niche fragrances offer stiff competition in prestige fragrances

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Products covered in this report
        • Excluded
        • Executive Summary

            • Fragrances driven by prestige sales
              • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
            • The rise of niche fragrances
              • Figure 2: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by sector, 2013-14
            • Unisex fragrances see a rise in launch activity
              • Figure 3: New product development in the fragrances category*, by sub-category, January 2012-June 2015
            • Use of fragrances drops with age
              • Figure 4: Usage of any fragrance, by gender and age, June 2015
            • Women purchase for themselves, men buy for their partners
              • Figure 5: Purchase for self vs partner, by gender, June 2015
            • Brand name is more important when buying for others
              • Figure 6: Factors influencing purchase, June 2015
            • What we think
            • Issues and Insights

              • New unisex launches challenge gender expectations
                • The facts
                  • The implications
                    • Skin concerns could deter users
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Stimulating the senses to market products
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                                • Niche fragrances offer stiff competition in prestige fragrances
                                  • The facts
                                    • The implications
                                    • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                      • Savvy shopping behaviours impact the value of the market
                                        • Niche fragrances boost prestige segment
                                          • Men’s segments fare well
                                            • Department stores drive experiences
                                              • Improved financial situations boost accessibility of fine fragrance
                                                • Changing population dynamics could impact the market
                                                • Market Size and Forecast

                                                  • Decline in total market in 2015…
                                                    • Figure 7: UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
                                                  • …but outlook to 2020 is more positive
                                                    • Figure 8: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
                                                  • Fragrances to show growth
                                                    • Sales of body sprays struggle
                                                    • Segment Performance

                                                      • Prestige segments benefit from rise in income and artisan fragrances
                                                        • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by sector, 2012-15
                                                      • Men’s fragrances and body sprays see a rise
                                                        • Figure 10: UK retail value sales of body sprays, by sector, 2013-14
                                                      • Body sprays struggle to show growth
                                                      • Channels to Market

                                                        • Department stores create experiences to draw shoppers
                                                            • Figure 11: UK retail values sales of fragrances only, by outlet type, 2013-14
                                                            • Figure 12: UK retail values sales of body sprays, by outlet type, 2013-14
                                                          • Savvy shopping behaviours drives online channel
                                                            • Ease of purchase drives online channel in the US
                                                              • Drugstores harness sales from seasonal events
                                                                • Own-label perfumes could provide competition
                                                                • Market Drivers

                                                                  • Decline in young adults could impact celebrity fragrances
                                                                    • Figure 13: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2010-20
                                                                  • Prestige market could see boost from rise in employment
                                                                    • Figure 14: Employment and unemployment, 2010-20
                                                                  • Scented toiletries could impact the market
                                                                    • Figure 15: Usage of hand and body care products, April 2015
                                                                  • Allergy concerns
                                                                    • Figure 16: Purchase of natural/organic toiletries, September 2014
                                                                • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                                                  • Brand perception influenced by age
                                                                    • Black Friday marks a new advertising occasion
                                                                      • Sensorial advertising campaigns drive growth of leading brands
                                                                        • Unisex fragrances see a rise in launch activity
                                                                        • Brand Research

                                                                            • Brand map
                                                                              • Figure 17: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, July 2015
                                                                            • Key brand metrics
                                                                              • Figure 18: Key metrics for selected brands, July 2015
                                                                            • Brand attitudes: Designer labels more closely associated with quality
                                                                              • Figure 19: Attitudes, by brand, July 2015
                                                                            • Brand personality: Dolce & Gabbana has a particularly exclusive image
                                                                              • Figure 20: Brand personality – Macro image, July 2015
                                                                            • Brand personality: FCUK seen as a youthful, quirky brand
                                                                              • Figure 21: Brand personality – Micro image, July 2015
                                                                            • Brand analysis
                                                                              • Hugo Boss performs particularly strongly
                                                                                • Figure 22: User profile of Hugo Boss, July 2015
                                                                              • Calvin Klein’s combination of quality and accessibility drives usage
                                                                                • Figure 23: User profile of Calvin Klein, July 2015
                                                                              • Ghost has potential to grow beyond its current level
                                                                                • Figure 24: User profile of Ghost, July 2015
                                                                              • Paco Rabanne appears to be increasing its standing among women
                                                                                • Figure 25: User profile of Paco Rabanne, July 2015
                                                                              • Dolce & Gabbana performs well, but exclusivity may limit usage and recommendation
                                                                                • Figure 26: User profile of Dolce & Gabbana, July 2015
                                                                              • FCUK’s youthful image may detract from quality associations
                                                                                • Figure 27: User profile of FCUK, July 2015
                                                                              • Britney Spears Fragrances may earn usage from value association
                                                                                • Figure 28: User profile of Britney Spears Fragrances, July 2015
                                                                              • Justin Bieber Fragrances is seen in a particularly negative light
                                                                                • Figure 29: User profile of Justin Bieber Fragrances, July 2015
                                                                            • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                              • Christmas drives end-of-year advertising
                                                                                • Figure 30: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, January 2012-June 2015
                                                                              • Black Friday marks a new advertising occasion
                                                                                • Investment in outdoor advertising increases
                                                                                  • Figure 31: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by media type, January 2012-June 2015
                                                                                • Customisable adverts
                                                                                  • Sensorial advertising on the increase
                                                                                    • The power of celebrity
                                                                                      • Dior increases advertising in 2014
                                                                                        • Figure 32: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by top advertisers, January 2013-June 2015
                                                                                      • Coverage/methodology clarification
                                                                                      • Launch Activity and Innovation

                                                                                        • Decline in NPD in 2013 may be due to impending EU changes
                                                                                          • Figure 33: New product development in the fragrances category*, by launch type, January 2012-June 2015
                                                                                        • New products see a rise
                                                                                          • Rise of unisex fragrances
                                                                                            • Figure 34: Examples of unisex fragrance launches, 2014-15
                                                                                            • Figure 35: Examples of unisex fragrance launches which appear gender-targeted, 2014
                                                                                            • Figure 36: Examples of unisex fragrances launches from Comme des Garçons, which appear gender-targeted, 2014
                                                                                            • Figure 37: New product development in the fragrances category*, by sub-category, January 2012-June 2015
                                                                                          • Free-from claims increase
                                                                                            • Figure 38: New product development in the fragrances category*, by top claims for 2014, January 2013-June 2015
                                                                                            • Figure 39: Alternative format launches in the free-from sector, 2014
                                                                                          • Niche brands drive aromatherapy claims
                                                                                            • Figure 40: Examples of fragrance launches with aromatherapy qualities, 2014-15
                                                                                          • Packaging goes beyond bottle shape
                                                                                            • Figure 41: Examples of evocative packaging for fragrance launches, 2014-15
                                                                                          • Fragmented category
                                                                                            • Figure 42: New product development in the fragrances category*, by top ultimate companies, 2014
                                                                                          • Celebrity launches continue
                                                                                            • Figure 43: Examples of celebrity fragrance launches, 2014
                                                                                            • Figure 44: Examples of celebrity fragrance launches, cont., 2014
                                                                                          • Body sprays sees own-label launches
                                                                                            • Figure 45: Examples of own-label body spray launches, 2014
                                                                                        • Market Share

                                                                                          • Leading fragrance manufacturers fare well
                                                                                            • Figure 46: Manufacturer’s shares in fragrances only, June 2014-June 2015
                                                                                          • Unilever shows the smallest decline in body sprays
                                                                                            • Figure 47: Manufacturer’s shares in body sprays only, June 2014-June 2015
                                                                                        • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                          • Fragrance and scented toiletry usage declines with age
                                                                                            • Women are more likely to be fragrance users
                                                                                              • Fragrance notes trigger different perceptions
                                                                                                • Gifting to mums over dads
                                                                                                  • Brand name is biggest influencer
                                                                                                    • Driving the shopping experience
                                                                                                      • Personalisation offers opportunities
                                                                                                        • Allergen issues
                                                                                                        • Usage of Fragrances

                                                                                                          • Fragrance usage declines with age
                                                                                                            • Figure 48: Usage of perfumes/colognes by gender, June 2014
                                                                                                          • Women’s heightened smell
                                                                                                            • Figure 49: Usage of any fragrance, by gender and age, June 2015
                                                                                                          • Women look for on-the-go products
                                                                                                            • Use of scented toiletries also declines with age
                                                                                                              • Figure 50: Usage of scented toiletries by gender, June 2014
                                                                                                            • Young people have a greater repertoire
                                                                                                              • Figure 51: Repertoire of fragrances used, by age, June 2015
                                                                                                          • Fragrance Perceptions

                                                                                                            • Methodology
                                                                                                              • Floral is romantic, but oriental is sensual
                                                                                                                • Figure 52: Examples of flower-themed fragrance gift sets, 2015
                                                                                                                • Figure 53: Correspondence analysis – Associations with fragrance types, June 2015
                                                                                                              • Woody fragrances are adventurous
                                                                                                                • Figure 54: Examples of fragrance launches with woody accents, 2015
                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Associations with fragrance types, June 2015
                                                                                                              • Fresh notes are clean
                                                                                                              • Purchase of Fragrances

                                                                                                                • Purchase amongst men is high
                                                                                                                  • Figure 56: Purchase/gifting of fragrances, June 2015
                                                                                                                • Women buy for themselves, whilst men buy for partners
                                                                                                                  • Figure 57: Purchase for self vs partner, by gender, June 2015
                                                                                                                • Gifting for life occasions
                                                                                                                  • Mums over Dads
                                                                                                                    • Single fragrances are most popular
                                                                                                                      • Figure 58: Purchase of single fragrances, June 2015
                                                                                                                    • Gift sets are popular
                                                                                                                      • Figure 59: Purchase of fragrance gifts, June 2015
                                                                                                                    • The power of a brand name
                                                                                                                      • Figure 60: Factors influencing purchase, June 2015
                                                                                                                    • Older millennials less influenced by brand name
                                                                                                                      • Money is important
                                                                                                                        • Packaging is more important when buying for others
                                                                                                                        • Attitudes towards Fragrances

                                                                                                                          • Personalising fragrance strength
                                                                                                                            • Figure 61: Attitudes towards fragrances, June 2015
                                                                                                                          • Improving the shopping experience
                                                                                                                            • Desire for natural
                                                                                                                            • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                                              • Data sources
                                                                                                                                • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                                  • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                                                                    • Brand research
                                                                                                                                      • Brand map
                                                                                                                                        • Correspondence analysis
                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Market

                                                                                                                                            • Figure 62: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, 2010-20
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 63: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, 2010-20
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 64: UK retail value sales of body sprays only, 2010-20
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 65: UK retail value sales of body sprays only, 2010-20

                                                                                                                                        Companies Covered

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                                                                                                                                        Fragrances - UK - August 2015

                                                                                                                                        US $2,672.70 (Excl.Tax)