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Fragrances - UK - August 2016

"The fragrance and body spray category has shown a decline in value in 2015 which is expected to continue into 2016 as savvy shopping behaviours persist. However, high consumer interest in fragrances with niche characteristics, such as the use of natural ingredients and high concentrations of perfume extracts, could encourage spend, particularly in mainstream fine fragrance brands. In addition, with the in-store environment remaining a crucial stage in the purchase decision-making process, retailers can do more to encourage impulse buying."

– Roshida Khanom, Senior Personal Care Analyst

This report will cover the following areas:

  • Savvy shopping behaviours continue to impact the value of the category
  • NPD is down despite interest in innovations being high
  • Attracting younger shoppers

This report examines the UK market for men’s and women’s fragrances, including parfum, eaux de toilettes (EdT), eaux de parfums (EdP) and colognes:

  • Parfums or perfume extracts have a 15-40% concentration of essence.
  • Eaux de parfum (EdP) have a 10-30% concentration of essence.
  • Eaux de toilette (EdT) have a 5-20% concentration of essence.
  • Colognes, often referred to as eaux de cologne (EdC), have a 3-5% concentration of essence.
  • Also included within this report are body sprays (fragrances in a spray can format) for men and for women.

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Products covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • A category struggling to show growth
            • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2011-21
          • Financial situations have improved but could now be impacted by Brexit
            • Launch activity sees a decline
              • Figure 2: New product development in the fragrances category*, by launch type, January 2013-May 2016
            • Fragrance usage sees a rise
              • Figure 3: Usage of fragrances, June 2015 and June 2016
            • High interest in ingredients
              • Figure 4: Usage and interest in fragrances with niche characteristics, June 2016
            • High street retailers remain the most popular destination
              • Figure 5: Places of purchase of fragrances, June 2016
            • In-store environment is crucial in decision-making process
              • Figure 6: Factors influencing last fragrance purchased, June 2016
            • High interest in extending the life of fragrances
              • Figure 7: Interest in fragrance innovations, June 2016
            • Celebrity fragrances are no longer aspirational
              • Figure 8: Associations of different fragrance types, June 2016
            • What we think
            • Issues and Insights

              • Savvy shopping behaviours continue to impact the value of the category
                • The facts
                  • The implications
                    • NPD is down despite interest in innovations being high
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Attracting younger shoppers
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                              • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                • Fragrances market in decline
                                  • Unisex fragrances continue to perform well
                                    • Retailers encourage shoppers to buy in-store
                                      • Young people are set to decline in population whilst older people rising
                                        • Financial situations improve but confidence could be impacted by Brexit
                                          • Online retailers and discounters rise in prominence
                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                            • Savvy shopping driving down value of fragrances
                                              • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, at current and constant prices, 2011-21
                                            • Small but steady rise predicted long term
                                              • Figure 10: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2011-21
                                            • Forecast methodology
                                            • Segment Performance

                                              • Unisex fragrances continue to fare well
                                                • Figure 11: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by sector, 2014-16 (est)
                                              • Mass market lacks the draw of fine fragrance
                                                • Men are getting more involved
                                                  • Body sprays decline in value
                                                    • Figure 12: UK retail value sales of body sprays, by sector, 2014-15
                                                • Channels to Market

                                                  • Retailers offer in-store experiences to draw in shoppers
                                                    • Figure 13: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by outlet type, 2014-15
                                                  • Making niche more affordable
                                                    • Price and convenience drives body sprays sector
                                                      • Figure 14: UK retail value sales of body sprays, by outlet type, 2014-15
                                                  • Market Drivers

                                                    • Population of young people set to decline
                                                      • Figure 15: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2011-21
                                                    • Optimise in-store environment for older people
                                                      • Prestige sector boosted by improved financial situations
                                                        • Figure 16: Trends in how respondents would describe their financial situation, May 2011 and May 2016
                                                      • Rise of the online channel
                                                        • Figure 17: Online retailers used to purchase BPC products, October 2015
                                                      • Discounters driving savvy shopping behaviours
                                                        • Figure 18: Selected discounters market size, 2009/10-2014/15
                                                      • Focus on ingredients
                                                        • Figure 19: Changes in haircare habits in the past 12 months, January 2016
                                                      • Fragrance experimentation
                                                        • Figure 20: Changes in usage of deodorants/antiperspirants in the last 12 months, April 2016
                                                    • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                                      • Coty value sales show a decline
                                                        • Overall launch activity is down
                                                          • Aromatherapy and botanical claims see a rise
                                                            • Companies target younger people
                                                              • Advertising spend is up
                                                                • Brands use social media to engage consumers
                                                                • Market Share

                                                                  • Coty value takes a hit
                                                                    • Figure 21: Top manufacturer’s shares in fragrances only, 2014 and 2015
                                                                  • Brands struggle in bodysprays
                                                                    • Figure 22: Top manufacturer’s shares in body sprays only, years ending March, 2015 and 2016
                                                                • Launch Activity and Innovation

                                                                  • Decline in launch activity
                                                                    • Figure 23: New product development in the fragrances category*, by launch type, January 2013-May 2016
                                                                    • Figure 24: Examples of Estée Lauder Classic Parfums relaunch, 2015
                                                                  • NPD seasonal peak
                                                                    • Figure 25: New product development in the fragrances category*, by quarter, January 2013-May 2016
                                                                    • Figure 26: Examples of fragrance launches in Q1, 2016
                                                                  • Unisex declines in focus
                                                                    • Figure 27: New product development in the fragrances category*, by sub-category, January 2013-May 2016
                                                                    • Figure 28: Examples of unisex fragrances, 2015
                                                                  • Aromatherapy claims see a rise
                                                                    • Figure 29: Top six fastest growing claims in the fragrances category* in 2015
                                                                  • Focusing on ingredients
                                                                    • Companies target Millennials
                                                                      • Figure 30: New product development in the fragrances category*, by top ultimate companies and other, 2015
                                                                  • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                    • Brands are spending more on advertising
                                                                      • Figure 31: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by media type, January 2013-May 2016
                                                                    • Burberry aims to innovate with advertising
                                                                      • Advertising focuses on Q4
                                                                        • Figure 32: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by quarter, January 2013-May 2016
                                                                      • P&G drives advertising in 2015
                                                                        • Figure 33: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by ultimate manufacturers, 2015
                                                                      • Coverage/methodology clarification
                                                                      • Brand Research

                                                                          • Brand map
                                                                            • Figure 34: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, June 2016
                                                                          • Key brand metrics
                                                                            • Figure 35: Key metrics for selected brands, June 2016
                                                                          • Brand attitudes: Gucci and Jo Malone are worth paying more for
                                                                            • Figure 36: Attitudes, by brand, June 2016
                                                                          • Brand personality: Ariana Grande Fragrances succeed in being fun
                                                                            • Figure 37: Brand personality – Macro image, June 2016
                                                                          • Elizabeth Arden is considered old-fashioned
                                                                            • Figure 38: Brand personality – Micro image, June 2016
                                                                          • Brand analysis
                                                                            • Gucci has an engaging brand image
                                                                              • Figure 39: User profile of Gucci, June 2016
                                                                            • Elizabeth Arden has broad usage despite being considered tired and boring
                                                                              • Figure 40: User profile of Elizabeth Arden, June 2016
                                                                            • YSL users are older
                                                                              • Figure 41: User profile of Yves Saint Laurent, June 2016
                                                                            • Jo Malone has a vibrant image
                                                                              • Figure 42: User profile of Jo Malone, June 2016
                                                                            • Lacoste appeals to men
                                                                              • Figure 43: User profile of Lacoste, June 2016
                                                                            • Ariana Grande Fragrances appeal to both genders
                                                                              • Figure 44: User profile of Ariana Grande Fragrances, June 2016
                                                                            • Christina Aguilera Fragrances are unappealing
                                                                              • Figure 45: User profile of Christina Aguilera Fragrances, June 2016
                                                                            • One Direction Fragrances appeal to young people
                                                                              • Figure 46: User profile of One Direction Fragrances, June 2016
                                                                          • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                            • Fragrance usage is up
                                                                              • Consumers show interest in ingredients
                                                                                • High street retailers remain most popular destination
                                                                                  • In-store environment remains important for purchase decision
                                                                                    • High interest in long-lasting fragrances
                                                                                      • Celebrity fragrances score low on usage attributes
                                                                                      • Usage of Fragrances

                                                                                        • Fragrance usage is up
                                                                                          • Figure 47: Usage of fragrances, June 2015 and June 2016
                                                                                        • Scented toiletries
                                                                                          • Figure 48: Usage of scented toiletries and other, June 2016
                                                                                        • Usage declines in older men
                                                                                          • Figure 49: Non-usage of fragrances amongst men, by age, June 2016
                                                                                      • Usage of and Interest in Niche Fragrances

                                                                                        • Interest in ingredients is high
                                                                                          • Figure 50: Usage of and interest in fragrances with niche characteristics, June 2016
                                                                                        • Older women pay attention to ingredients
                                                                                          • Figure 51: Usage of fragrances with selected niche characteristics amongst women, by age, June 2016
                                                                                        • Desire for exclusivity
                                                                                          • Figure 52: Interest in exclusive fragrances, by region, June 2016
                                                                                        • Personalisation could drive value
                                                                                        • Purchase of Fragrances

                                                                                          • Women are more likely to buy
                                                                                            • Figure 53: Purchase of fragrances, by gender, June 2016
                                                                                          • Older people are gifting
                                                                                            • Figure 54: Purchase of fragrances for self and others, by age, June 2016
                                                                                          • High street retailers remain most popular destination
                                                                                            • Figure 55: Places of purchase of fragrances, June 2016
                                                                                          • Young men driven by convenience …
                                                                                            • Figure 56: Places of purchase of fragrances amongst 16-24s, by gender, June 2016
                                                                                        • Fragrance Purchase Influencers

                                                                                          • In-store environment is important
                                                                                            • Figure 57: Factors influencing last fragrance purchased, June 2016
                                                                                          • Harnessing the power of gifting
                                                                                            • Men are more influenced by what they see
                                                                                              • Figure 58: Selected factors influencing last fragrance purchased, by gender, June 2016
                                                                                          • Interest in Fragrance Innovations

                                                                                            • Consumers want fragrances to last longer
                                                                                              • Figure 59: Interest in fragrance innovations, June 2016
                                                                                            • Multi-use fragrances have high appeal
                                                                                              • People want guidance
                                                                                              • Fragrance Associations

                                                                                                • Celebrity fragrances score low for usage attributes
                                                                                                  • Figure 60: Associations of different fragrance types, June 2016
                                                                                                • Beauty brands are competitive against designer fragrances
                                                                                                  • Figure 61: Perceptions of different fragrance types, June 2016
                                                                                              • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                  • Abbreviations
                                                                                                    • Consumer research methodology
                                                                                                      • Forecast methodology
                                                                                                        • Brand research
                                                                                                          • Brand map
                                                                                                            • Correspondence analysis
                                                                                                              • Attitudes towards format types
                                                                                                                • Correspondence analysis methodology
                                                                                                                • Appendix – Key Players

                                                                                                                    • Figure 62: New product development in the fragrances category, by top ultimate companies and other for 2015, 2014-15

                                                                                                                Companies Covered

                                                                                                                To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                Fragrances - UK - August 2016

                                                                                                                £1,995.00 (Excl.Tax)