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Hair Colourants and Home Perms - UK - November 2013

“Although the market has seen notable innovation from 2012-13, driven by new formulas and easier application methods, health concerns remain an area of some contention in the media. Brands have a responsibility to their users to be more transparent about product content and facilitate easier allergy testing initiatives to alleviate negative publicity. In turn, this is likely to boost brand loyalty and usage of hair colourants, particularly by the more cautious colourer.”

– Lucy Cornford, Senior Beauty Analyst

Some questions answered in this report include:

  • How can hair colourant brands address rising concerns over chemicals?
  • How are changing attitudes towards grey hair likely to impact on the market?
  • What has been the most notable innovation in the last year, and how is it likely to affect the market long-term?
  • Can at-home colouration ever offer the same quality as in-salon?

Valued at £349 million in 2013, the hair colourants market has grown by 4.5% since 2012, with sales boosted by innovation in the category from some of the leading players. The market continues to be dominated by a handful of major companies, with limited activity from smaller brands or even own-label, as perpetual special offers on well-known brands command the most shopper attention.

Although most consumers buy into hair colourants in order to boost confidence and attractiveness, the issue of chemicals in such products is pressing. It is important that brands continue to push the importance of allergy testing, but without scaremongering, essentially coaxing users to test the product by making it easier or more cost-effective to do so. Content transparency is also important here: consumers need to be aware of all of the ingredients used in hair colourants, and not just a select few.

The growing acceptability of grey hair in society is also likely to be a challenge for the industry in the coming years, particularly in light of the ageing population, so creating initiatives to boost usage by ageing consumers is key. Rather than promoting hair colourants as a means to cover grey, more emphasis on softening the coarse texture of greying hair, or products to actively enhance greying shades, are most likely to encourage senior consumers to stay in the market for longer.

This report examines usage of hair colourants, attitudes towards using and buying hair colourants, and investigates key consumer typologies and the potential for further innovation in the market.

Products covered in this report:

Hair colourants and home perms

The hair colourants sector includes the following product categories:
Permanents (do not wash out of hair)
Semi-permanent (last approximately 24 washes)
Temporary colourants
Tone on tone hair colour (including restorers and removers)
Perms and relaxers

Excluded:

Colour-enhancing shampoos (also known as colour glazes)

Hair cosmetics (eg Luscious Locks hi-lights hair mascara, The Glow Company UV Hair Mascara, TIGI Bedhead Wigged Out hair mascara) are excluded from market sizing, although these are discussed in the context of the report.

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Products covered in this report
        • Hair colourants and home perms
          • Excluded
            • Abbreviations
            • Executive Summary

                • Value sales of hair colourants display renewed vigour
                  • Figure 1: UK best and worst case forecast of UK retail sales of hair colourants and home perms, 2008-18
                • Market drivers
                  • L’Oréal dominates NPD
                    • Figure 2: New product launches, by top 5 ultimate companies, 2012
                  • Home-use permanent treatments lose out to hair colourants
                    • Figure 3: Frequency of use of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, September 2013
                  • Young adults display a more emotional approach to hair colouring
                    • Figure 4: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, September 2013
                  • What we think
                  • Issues in the Market

                      • How can hair colourant brands address rising concerns over chemicals?
                        • How are changing attitudes towards grey hair likely to impact on the market?
                          • What has been the most notable innovation in the last year, and how is it likely to affect the market long-term?
                            • Can at-home colouration ever offer the same quality as in-salon?
                            • Trend Application

                                • Trend: Help Me Help Myself
                                  • Trend: Make it Mine
                                    • Mintel Futures: Old Gold
                                    • Market Drivers

                                      • Key points
                                        • Age of population
                                          • Figure 5: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2008-18
                                          • Figure 6: Forecast adult population trends, by lifestage, 2008-18
                                        • Social grade
                                          • Figure 7: Forecast adult population trends, by socio-economic group, 2008-18
                                        • Appearance concerns
                                          • Figure 8: Body complaints, by gender, July 2013
                                        • Chemical-based vs natural or organic
                                          • Figure 9: Purchase of natural or organic toiletries, by product type, six months to November 2012
                                      • Who’s Innovating?

                                        • Key points
                                          • New product launches by launch type
                                            • Figure 10: New product launches, % share by launch type, Jan 2009-Aug 2013
                                          • New product launches by company
                                            • Figure 11: New product launches, by top 5 ultimate companies, 2012
                                            • Figure 12: Examples of hair colour collections launched by L’Oréal, 2012-13
                                          • New product launches by leading claims
                                            • Figure 13: New product launches, by top 10 claims, 2012
                                          • Convenient colouring
                                            • Brightening/Illuminating
                                              • ‘Better for you’
                                                • Ammonia- and PPD-free
                                                  • New product launch trends
                                                    • Hair make-up
                                                      • Figure 14: Selected new launches for hair colourant make-up, 2013
                                                    • From pastels to brights
                                                      • Figure 15: Examples of pastel and bright hair colourant launches, 2012-13
                                                    • Foaming at the hair
                                                      • Figure 16: Examples of hair colourant foams, 2013
                                                    • Oil it up
                                                      • ‘Foolproof’ for men
                                                        • Figure 17: Examples of home-use hair colourants for men, 2012-13
                                                      • Other hair colourant innovations
                                                        • Figure 18: Examples of other innovations in hair colourants, 2013
                                                    • Market Size and Forecast

                                                      • Key points
                                                        • UK value sales of hair colourants on the rise
                                                          • Figure 19: UK retail value sales of hair colourants and home perms, 2008-18
                                                          • Figure 20: UK best and worst case forecast of UK retail sales of hair colourants and home perms, 2008-18
                                                        • Forecast methodology
                                                        • Segment Performance

                                                          • Key points
                                                            • Sales by segment
                                                              • Figure 21: UK retail value sales of hair colourants and home perms, by sector, 2012-13
                                                          • Market Share

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • L’Oréal remains market leader
                                                                • Figure 22: Manufacturers’ value shares in hair colourants, year ending August 2012 and 2013
                                                              • Procter & Gamble and Schwarzkopf & Henkel maintain market positions
                                                                • ‘Just for Men’ limits Combe International’s potential for market share growth
                                                                  • Special offers and branded innovations negatively impact own-label sales
                                                                  • Companies and Products

                                                                    • L’Oréal
                                                                      • Background
                                                                        • Financial performance
                                                                          • Figure 23: L’Oréal (UK) Ltd, financial performance, 2011-12
                                                                        • Product range and innovation
                                                                            • Figure 24: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by L’Oréal, Oct 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                          • Marketing and advertising
                                                                            • Kao
                                                                              • Background
                                                                                • Financial performance
                                                                                  • Figure 25: Kao Corporation, global financial performance, 2011-12
                                                                                • Product range and innovation
                                                                                    • Figure 26: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by Kao Group, Oct 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                                  • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                    • PZ Cussons
                                                                                      • Background
                                                                                        • Financial performance
                                                                                          • Figure 27: PZ Cussons, global financial performance, 2012-13
                                                                                        • Product range and innovation
                                                                                          • Figure 28: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by PZ Cussons, Oct 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                                        • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                          • Combe International
                                                                                            • Background
                                                                                              • Financial performance
                                                                                                • Figure 29: Financial performance of Combe International Ltd, 2011-12
                                                                                              • Product range and innovation
                                                                                                  • Figure 30: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by Combe International Ltd, Oct, 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                                                • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                  • Henkel
                                                                                                    • Background
                                                                                                      • Financial performance
                                                                                                        • Figure 31: Financial performance of Henkel Ltd, 2011-12
                                                                                                      • Product range and innovation
                                                                                                        • Figure 32: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by Henkel, Oct 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                                                      • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                        • Procter & Gamble
                                                                                                          • Background
                                                                                                            • Financial performance
                                                                                                              • Figure 33: Financial performance of Procter & Gamble (Health & Beauty Care) Ltd, 2011-12
                                                                                                            • Product range and innovation
                                                                                                              • Figure 34: Selected hair colourant products launched in the UK by Procter & Gamble, Oct 2012-Sept 2013
                                                                                                            • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                                            • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                • Total ad spend
                                                                                                                  • Figure 35: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, Jan 2009-Aug 2013
                                                                                                                • TV buoys advertising spend
                                                                                                                  • Figure 36: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by media type, Jan 2009-Aug 2013
                                                                                                                • Social media provides increasing opportunities for low cost advertising
                                                                                                                  • Schwarzkopf
                                                                                                                    • L’Oréal/Garnier
                                                                                                                      • John Frieda
                                                                                                                        • Selected advertisers
                                                                                                                          • Figure 37: Main monitored advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by selected advertisers, Jan 2009-Aug 2013
                                                                                                                        • Leading advertisers
                                                                                                                          • Figure 38: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by leading advertisers, 2012
                                                                                                                        • Leading brands
                                                                                                                          • Figure 39: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by brand (top 10), 2012
                                                                                                                        • Product category
                                                                                                                          • Figure 40: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by product category, 2012
                                                                                                                      • Channels to Market

                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                          • Boots ensures chemists remain the dominant retail channel
                                                                                                                            • Figure 41: UK retail sales of hair colourants, by outlet type, 2011-13
                                                                                                                          • Social media coaxes savvy shoppers into stores
                                                                                                                            • Figure 42: Examples of hair colourant savings promotions on facebook, 2013
                                                                                                                          • Discount retailers on the rise
                                                                                                                            • Pureplay online retail for hair colourants struggles
                                                                                                                            • The Consumer – Hair Types and Treatments

                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                • Consumer hair length
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 43: Hair length, by gender and age, September 2013
                                                                                                                                • Hair type
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 44: Hair type, by hair length, September 2013
                                                                                                                                • Instances of grey hair and colouration
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 45: Hair description, by gender, September 2013
                                                                                                                              • The Consumer – Usage and Frequency

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • Colouring trumps permanent treatments for an at-home change
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 46: Frequency of use of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, September 2013
                                                                                                                                  • Young adults display a more experimental approach to home colouring
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 47: Hair colourant products used at home in last 12 months, by age group, September 2013
                                                                                                                                  • Consumers on a budget are more practical colourers
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: Hair colourant products used at home in last 12 months, by financial situation, September 2013
                                                                                                                                • The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Buying Hair Colourants

                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                    • Brand loyalty increases with age
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 49: Consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, September 2013
                                                                                                                                    • Special offers drive purchasing
                                                                                                                                      • Own-label remains a less favourable option
                                                                                                                                        • The convenience of the home, the results of a salon
                                                                                                                                          • The power of advertising
                                                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Interest in Product Innovation

                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Getting to the root of the problem
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 50: Consumer attitudes towards trying hair colourant products, September 2013
                                                                                                                                              • Colour reversal
                                                                                                                                                • Testing times
                                                                                                                                                  • Tailoring colourants
                                                                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Hair Colouring

                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                      • Emotionally-driven colouration
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 51: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                      • Colour-suited and booted
                                                                                                                                                        • Health concerns show age divide
                                                                                                                                                          • Quality is (almost) everything
                                                                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Consumer Typologies

                                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 52: Consumer typologies, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                              • Results Driven (34% or the equivalent of 14.5 million internet users aged 16+)
                                                                                                                                                                • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                  • The Indifferents (34% or the equivalent of 14.5 million internet users aged 16+)
                                                                                                                                                                    • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                      • Cautious Colourers (32% or the equivalent of 13.7 million internet users aged 16+)
                                                                                                                                                                        • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Market Drivers

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 53: Most popular body complaints, by demographics, July 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 54: Next most popular body complaints, by demographics, July 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 55: Other body complaints, by demographics, July 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Who’s Innovating?

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 56: Hair colourant launches, by launch type and quarter, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 57: UK hair colourant launches, by top ten brands, own-label and other, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Positioning claims for hair colourants, in alphabetical order, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Percentage of new hair colourant launches claimed to be free from ammonia or PPD, 2009-Aug 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 60: Main monitored media advertising expenditure by L’Oréal on hair colourants, by media type and brand, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Hair Types and Treatments

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 61: Hair type by length, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 62: Hair type by length, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 63: Hair type, by length, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 64: Hair type, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 65: Hair type, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 66: Hair description by treatment or levels of grey, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 67: Most popular hair description by treatment or levels of grey, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 68: Next most popular hair description by treatment or levels of grey, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Usage and Frequency

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 69: Frequency of use of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 70: Frequency of use of any at-home colour products in last 12 months, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 71: Frequency of use of any at-home permanent colour dye in last 12 months, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 72: Frequency of use of any at-home semi-permanent colour dye in last 12 months, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 73: Repertoire of usage of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 74: Repertoire of usage of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Buying Hair Colourants

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 75: Consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 76: Most popular consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 77: Next most popular consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 78: Other consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 79: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, by most popular consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 80: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, by next most popular consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Interest in Product Innovation

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 81: Consumer attitudes towards trying hair colourant products, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 82: Most popular consumer attitudes towards trying hair colourant products, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 83: Next most popular consumer attitudes towards trying hair colourant products, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Attitudes Towards Hair Colouring

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 84: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 85: Most popular consumer attitudes towards hair colouring – Any agree, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 86: Next most popular consumer attitudes towards hair colouring – Any agree, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – The Consumer – Consumer Typologies

                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 87: Target groups, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 88: Target groups, by demographics, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 89: Consumer attitudes towards buying hair colourants, by target groups, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 90: Consumer attitudes towards trying hair colourant products, by target groups, September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 91: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, by target groups, September 2013

                                                                                                                                                                        Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                        To learn more about the companies covered in this report please contact us.

                                                                                                                                                                        Hair Colourants and Home Perms - UK - November 2013

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