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Hair Colourants - UK - January 2015

“Despite strong grey coverage claims in the category, the oldest demographics with the most grey are less likely to colour their hair. Repositioning part-colouring techniques, such as highlighting, as ways to complement grey hair rather than covering it could be more appealing. Young men, who have more grey than young women, are not colouring their hair as much which may be driven by a lack of brands aimed at them. Temporary hair colours have seen a big jump in value in 2014, driven by the breadth of recent innovation and experimental nature of the segment.”
– Roshida Khanom, Senior Personal Care Analyst

This report looks at the following issues:

  • Older women are less likely to colour
  • Young men are going grey
  • Rise in value of temporary colour segment

The hair colourant market is predicted to decline in value in 2014, largely due to discount retailers offering cheaper brands. However, with almost a third of people colouring at the salon in the last 12 months (higher amongst those aged 16-34), the growing availability of online discount vouchers for salon services offered by websites such as Groupon may also be impacting the retail hair colourant market. The period October 2013-October 2014 has seen a rise in value of temporary hair colourants, with the launch of brands such as Bleach, offering bright and pastel temporary colours, driving this. Type of colour/shade, brand name and low price are the three most important purchasing factors in this category, and when it comes to all-over colouring products (such as permanent or semi-permanent colour) consumers stick to shades close to their natural colour.

Within this report we investigate people’s natural hair colour and grey levels, as well as most popular dyed shades and top factors influencing purchase of hair colour. This report also investigates the perceptions associated with different hair colour formats (such as liquids, creams and foams).

The hair colourants sector includes the following product categories:

  • Permanents (do not wash out of hair)
  • Semi-permanent (last between six and eight washes)
  • Temporary colourants
  • Tone on tone hair colour (including restorers and removers)

Excluded:

  • Colour-enhancing shampoos (also known as colour glazes)
  • Hair cosmetics (eg Luscious Locks hi-lights hair mascara, The Glow Company UV Hair Mascara, TIGI Bedhead Wigged Out hair mascara) are excluded from market sizing, although these are discussed in the context of the report.

 

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Products covered in this report
        • Hair colourants
          • Excluded
            • Abbreviations
            • Executive Summary

                • The market
                  • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast of UK value sales of hair colourants, 2009-19
                • Market drivers
                  • Companies, brands and innovation
                    • Figure 2: New product launches, by top ultimate companies, January-November 2014
                  • The consumer
                    • Figure 3: Shade used, October 2014
                    • Figure 4: Top purchase factors, October 2014
                  • What we think
                  • Issues & Insights

                      • Older women are less likely to colour
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • Young men are going grey
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                  • Rise in value of temporary colour segment
                                    • The facts
                                      • The implications
                                      • Trend Application

                                          • Trend: Guiding Choice
                                            • Trend: Life Hacking
                                              • Futures Trend: Old Gold
                                              • Market Drivers

                                                • Key points
                                                  • Age of population
                                                    • Figure 5: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2009-19
                                                  • Interest in natural and organic products
                                                    • Figure 6: Purchase of natural/organic toiletries, September 2014
                                                  • Young women have biggest range of haircare products
                                                    • Figure 7: Repertoire of hair products usage amongst women, by age, February 2014
                                                  • Greater guidance could drive experimentation
                                                    • Figure 8: Attitudes towards point colour, May 2014
                                                • Who’s Innovating?

                                                  • Key points
                                                    • New product launches show different formats
                                                      • Figure 9: New product launches, percentage share by launch type January 2010 – November 2014
                                                      • Figure 10: Examples of new product launches, January-November 2014
                                                    • L’Oréal leads launches in 2014
                                                      • Figure 11: New product launches, by top six ultimate companies and other, January-November 2014
                                                      • Figure 12: Launches by L’Oréal in the hair colourants category, January-November 2014
                                                      • Figure 13: Launches by Bleach Products in the hair colourants category, January-November 2014
                                                    • Rise in environmentally friendly claims
                                                      • Figure 14: New product launches, by top claims (based on 2014), January 2013-November 2014
                                                      • Figure 15: Natural and organic hair colourant launches, January-November 2014
                                                  • Market Size and Forecast

                                                    • Key points
                                                      • Growth and decline in recent years
                                                        • Figure 16: UK retail value sales of hair colourants, 2009-19
                                                      • Slow decline predicted
                                                        • Figure 17: Best- and worst-case forecast of UK value sales of hair colourants, 2009-19
                                                      • Forecast methodology
                                                      • Segment Performance

                                                        • Key points
                                                          • Temporary colours see the biggest rise in value
                                                            • Figure 18: UK retail value sales of hair colourants and home perms, by sector, October 2013-October 2014
                                                        • Market Share

                                                          • Key points
                                                            • Brands struggle to show growth in 2014
                                                              • Figure 19: Brand value shares in hair colourants, 2013 and 2014 (year ending October)
                                                            • Decline in popularity of foam colourants impacts sales of John Frieda
                                                            • Companies and Products

                                                              • L’Oréal
                                                                • Background and structure
                                                                  • Strategy and financial performance
                                                                    • Figure 20: L’Oréal (UK) Ltd financial performance, 2012-13
                                                                  • Product range and innovation
                                                                    • Figure 21: Examples of new product launches by L’Oréal in the hair colourants market, June 2013-November 2014
                                                                    • Figure 22: Examples of new product launches by L’Oréal in the hair colourants market, June 2013-November 2014 (continued)
                                                                  • Marketing and advertising
                                                                    • Kao
                                                                      • Background and structure
                                                                        • Strategy and financial performance
                                                                          • Figure 23: Key financials for Kao Corporation (global), 2012-13
                                                                        • Product range and innovation
                                                                          • Figure 24: Examples of new product launches by Kao in the hair colour market, June 2013-November 2014
                                                                        • Marketing and advertising
                                                                          • PZ Cussons
                                                                            • Background and structure
                                                                              • Strategy and financial performance
                                                                                • Figure 25: Key financials for PZ Cussons UK, 2012-13
                                                                                • Figure 26: Key financials for PZ Cussons Beauty LLP, 2012-13
                                                                              • Product range and innovation
                                                                                • Figure 27: Examples of new product launches by PZ Cussons in the hair colourant market, June 2013-November 2014
                                                                              • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                • Henkel
                                                                                  • Background and structure
                                                                                    • Strategy and financial performance
                                                                                      • Figure 28: Henkel Limited financial performance, 2012 and 2013
                                                                                    • Product range and innovation
                                                                                      • Figure 29: Examples of new product launches by Henkel in the hair colourant market, June 2013-November 2014
                                                                                    • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                      • Procter & Gamble
                                                                                        • Background and structure
                                                                                          • Strategy and financial performance
                                                                                            • Figure 30: Key financials for Procter & Gamble (Health and Beauty Care) Ltd, 2012-13
                                                                                          • Product range and innovation
                                                                                            • Figure 31: Examples of new product launches by Procter & Gamble in the hair colourant market, June 2013-November 2014
                                                                                          • Marketing and advertising
                                                                                          • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                              • Advertising spend maintains focus on TV advertising
                                                                                                • Figure 32: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by media type, Jan 2010-November 2014
                                                                                              • Selected advertisers
                                                                                                • Figure 33: Main monitored advertising expenditure on hair colourants, by top advertisers, Jan 2013-November 2014
                                                                                              • Advertising spend is even all year round
                                                                                                • Figure 34: Advertising spend by quarter, January 2010-November 2014
                                                                                            • Brand Research

                                                                                              • Brand map
                                                                                                  • Figure 35: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, November 2014
                                                                                                • Correspondence analysis
                                                                                                  • Brand attitudes
                                                                                                    • Figure 36: Attitudes, by brand, November 2014
                                                                                                  • Brand personality
                                                                                                    • Figure 37: Brand personality – macro image, November 2014
                                                                                                    • Figure 38: Brand personality – Micro image, November 2014
                                                                                                  • Brand experience
                                                                                                    • Figure 39: Selected brand usage, November 2014
                                                                                                    • Figure 40: Satisfaction with selected brands, November 2014
                                                                                                    • Figure 41: Consideration of selected brands, November 2014
                                                                                                  • Brand recommendation
                                                                                                    • Figure 42: Recommendation of selected brands, November 2014
                                                                                                • Channels to Market

                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                    • Rise of discount stores
                                                                                                      • Figure 43: UK retail sales of hair colourants, by outlet type, 2013-14 (est)
                                                                                                  • The Consumer – Grey Level

                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                      • Young men have more grey than young women
                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Grey level, October 2014
                                                                                                      • Grey level rises amongst middle aged
                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Percentage of adults with any level of grey, by age
                                                                                                    • The Consumer – Hair Colour

                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                        • Darker colours are most prevalent naturally
                                                                                                          • Figure 46: Original hair colour, October 2014
                                                                                                        • People stick to their natural shade for all-over colours
                                                                                                          • Figure 47: Shade used, October 2014
                                                                                                        • From silver to gold; older people dyeing to go blonde
                                                                                                          • Men use darker colours
                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Products Used

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Young people more likely to use part-colouring products
                                                                                                                • Figure 48: Home hair colourant products used, October 2014
                                                                                                              • Highlighting may be used to cover the first signs of grey
                                                                                                                • Young people use a greater range of products
                                                                                                                  • Three in ten colour at the salon
                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: Usage of hair salon, October 2014
                                                                                                                • The Consumer – Purchase Factors

                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                    • Colour is the most important factor
                                                                                                                      • Figure 50: Top purchase factors, October 2014
                                                                                                                    • The importance of brand name and low pricing
                                                                                                                      • Exclusion of chemicals considered important
                                                                                                                        • Advertising/celebrity endorsement is low priority
                                                                                                                        • The Consumer – Perceptions of Format Types

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Methodology
                                                                                                                              • Creams and foams are more user friendly
                                                                                                                                • Figure 51: Correspondence analysis of format types, October 2014
                                                                                                                              • Low colour ratings
                                                                                                                                • Chalks offer vibrancy with low commitment
                                                                                                                                  • Sprays are damaging but alternative formats are fun
                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Market Share

                                                                                                                                      • Figure 52: Manufacturer shares in hair colourants, 2013 and 2014 (year ending October)

                                                                                                                                  Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                  • Charles Worthington
                                                                                                                                  • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                  • Fudge
                                                                                                                                  • Garnier
                                                                                                                                  • John Frieda
                                                                                                                                  • Kao Brands Company
                                                                                                                                  • L'Oréal (UK)
                                                                                                                                  • Lancôme
                                                                                                                                  • Nickel
                                                                                                                                  • P&G-Clairol, Inc.
                                                                                                                                  • Procter & Gamble Company (The)
                                                                                                                                  • PZ Cussons
                                                                                                                                  • Schwarzkopf & Henkel
                                                                                                                                  • Shiseido International

                                                                                                                                  Hair Colourants - UK - January 2015

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