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Make-up and Colour Cosmetics - China - November 2012

“Make-up for women has a long history in China, tracing back to thousands of years ago. The traditional style of Chinese make-up for women is best exemplified in classic Beijing Opera, where both actors and actresses wear heavy make-up when they perform. However, since 1949, especially during the Cultural Revolution period between 1966 and 1976, make-up for women was condemned as decadent capitalism. It was not until 1978 when China started its economic reform and open door policy that make-up became popular again. Nowadays, the majority of Chinese women living in urban areas still do not wear make-up except for some special events, and if they do, they tend to do wear only a light covering. "

– Eileen Ngieng – Senior Research Analyst

Some questions answered in this report include:

  • How do consumers transition from traditional make-up and colour cosmetics to Western, Korean and Japanese make-up and colour cosmetics application? How important is personal image and will cultural perceptions convert consumers to using Western, Korean and Japanese brands and products?
  • What are the top factors considered by consumers when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products and what are the ingredients that consumers want? What has the Chinese government’s involvement in the market been, and what have brands done to fulfil consumers’ demands in the market, and what else can be done?
  • How have the different brands positioned themselves in the fragmented make-up and colour cosmetics market? What are the opportunities and obstacles in the brand strategies and activities currently used by the make-up and colour cosmetics companies in targeting the Chinese?
  • What kind of premiumisation strategies can be used to stimulate growth in the make-up and colour cosmetics market? What else can brands do to allow consumers a better chance of exploring and understanding make-up and colour cosmetics?
 
Report Description:

Make-up for women has a long history in China, tracing back to thousands of years ago. The traditional style of Chinese make-up for women is best exemplified in classic Beijing Opera, where both actors and actresses wear heavy make-up when they perform. However, since 1949, especially during the Cultural Revolution period between 1966 and 1976, make-up for women was condemned as decadent capitalism. It was not until 1978 when China started its economic reform and open door policy that make-up became popular again. Nowadays, the majority of Chinese women living in urban areas still do not wear make-up except for some special events, and if they do, they tend to do wear only a light covering. By and large, Chinese women working in certain service industries and professions are required to wear make-up regularly.

The colour cosmetics market is driven by the economic growth and rising incomes, higher levels of education, and the increasing number of Chinese women working in the service sector industry, who need to be more presentable in front of clients. Growth is also emerging from cultural influences from the West, Japan and Korea and the emerging middle class. The real motivator for Chinese women to wear make-up is to gain confidence within themselves or to express their individuality.

The main barriers to the further development of China’s make-up and colour cosmetics market include the skin types and skin problems associated with Chinese women, since it is widely believed that wearing colour cosmetics too often can harm the skin, Chinese women also want to have fair-looking skin as this is part of their beauty culture. Additionally, the usage of make-up and colour cosmetics is not widespread enough, and where usage does occur, it is usually limited to a light use of make-up.

Make-up and colour cosmetics is a huge and fragmented market in China and brand loyalty is low due to the high presence of me-too products and high levels of marketing.

International companies are pushing deeper into lower tier cities through the acquisition of local and smaller companies to consolidate market segments in order to capture more groups of consumers with different needs and expectations. The most effective strategy for brand positioning is to fulfil consumers’ emotional need for confidence while delivering the results of functional benefits.

Liqueurs - UK - January 2012

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Report structure
      • Executive Summary

        • The market
          • Figure 1: Make-up and colour cosmetics market value in local currency, 2004-12
        • The forecast
          • Figure 2: Forecast for China’s make-up and colour cosmetics market, by value, 2007-17
        • Market segmentation
          • Figure 3: Make-up and colour cosmetics market segmentation, by value, 2004-12
        • Companies
          • Figure 4: Company market share, by value, 2009-11
        • L’Oréal
          • Carslan
            • Shiseido
              • Local companies – Suhu China Group, Hangzhou Mao Geping Make-up Co and Beauty China Holdings Limited
                • Issues in the market
                  • Drivers and barriers to make-up usage in China
                    • Make-up with skincare functions is the way to go
                      • Brand loyalty is a real challenge
                        • High-end segment has greater growth potential
                        • Drivers and Barriers to Make-up Usage in China

                          • Issues at a glance
                            • A history of colour cosmetics in China
                              • The underlying drivers for Chinese women to wear make-up
                                • China’s make-up and colour cosmetics market has great potential
                                  • China’s GDP growth and increasing personal income increase expenditure on make-up and colour cosmetics products
                                    • Education contributes to the increasing usage of make-up and colour cosmetics products
                                      • Figure 5: Agreement with statement “Make-up and colour cosmetics are considered a daily essential/necessity for me”, by monthly personal income and education level, May 2012
                                      • Figure 6: Percentage of the value of the primary, secondary and tertiary industry in China, 2006-10
                                    • The influence of Western, Korean and Japanese make-up cultures
                                      • The emerging middle class also contribute to the blooming make-up market
                                        • Figure 7: Discretionary spending on clothing, jewellery, beauty and personal care, April 2012
                                      • Make-up and colour cosmetics products linked to emotional needs
                                        • Figure 8: Attitudes towards make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                      • The underlying barriers for Chinese women to wear make-up
                                        • Make-up and colour cosmetics are used minimally and not commonly
                                          • Figure 9: Agreement with statement “Make-up and colour cosmetics are considered a daily essential/necessity for me”, May 2012
                                          • Figure 10: Attitudes towards make-up and colour cosmetics statements, May 2012
                                        • The future trend for make-up and colour cosmetics brands
                                          • What it means?
                                          • Make-up With Skincare Functions is the Way to Go

                                            • Issues at a glance
                                              • Effectiveness and functionalities of ingredients a top consideration factor
                                                • Figure 11: Three most important factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                              • Significant gaps exist between demands and supply
                                                • Figure 12: Most important product functions when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                • Figure 13: Top eight claims on make-up and colour cosmetics products development in China, 2008-11
                                              • All-natural and natural ingredients are clear favourites mainly due to safety issues
                                                • Safety issues in make-up and colour cosmetics products are not emphasised enough
                                                  • Figure 14: Three most important factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                • Cosmetics and cosmetic ingredient law
                                                  • Figure 15: Cosmetics and Cosmetic Ingredient Law
                                                • Requirements of ingredients in cosmetics
                                                  • Ingredient labelling increases product transparency
                                                    • Naturalness is in demand as chemical ingredients are a concern for product safety
                                                      • Figure 16: Agreement with statement “I've become more interested in the ingredients in my make-up products”, May 2012
                                                      • Figure 17: Expected all-natural ingredients and natural ingredients product functions when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                      • Figure 18: Agreement with statement “I prefer to buy all-natural haircare products”, February 2012
                                                    • Skin type and problems contribute to demand for all-natural and natural ingredients
                                                      • Figure 19: Types of skin problems/irritation currently experienced, May 2012
                                                    • Air and water pollution factors
                                                      • Figure 20: Top ten cities with worst air pollution based on PM10* index, 2011
                                                      • Figure 21: Using skincare to protect skin from the environment, by types of skin problems, May 2012
                                                    • Lifestyle factor
                                                      • Figure 22: Reasons for purchasing skin and bodycare products, May 2012
                                                    • Skincare elements into make-up and colour cosmetics products can help remove psychological barriers
                                                      • Figure 23: Agreement with statement “I care more about skincare products (such as moisturisers) than make-up”, May 2012
                                                      • Figure 24: Frequency of using make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                    • Increasing chemical-free claims of make-up and colour cosmetics
                                                      • Figure 25: Make-up and colour cosmetics products launched with various chemical-free claims, 2008-11
                                                    • Natural products and products associated with nature
                                                      • Pure natural mineral make-up boom
                                                        • Chinese herbs inspire make-up and colour cosmetics products
                                                          • Food inspiration into make-up and colour cosmetics products
                                                            • Anti-ageing and suitable for sensitive skin/skin allergies
                                                              • Figure 26: Anti-ageing and sensitive skin product functions claims when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                              • Figure 27: Dermatologically tested, ophthalmologically tested, allergy-tested, anti-ageing, firming and reduces fine lines/wrinkles claims on make-up and colour cosmetics products development in China, 2008-11
                                                            • Products for anti-ageing
                                                              • Products for sensitive skin
                                                                • Multifunctional products have potential widespread appeal
                                                                  • BB cream
                                                                    • What it means?
                                                                    • Brand Loyalty is a Real Challenge

                                                                      • Issues at a glance
                                                                        • Brand loyalty is low
                                                                          • Figure 28: Brand preferences in each of the make-up and colour cosmetics product categories, May 2012
                                                                          • Figure 29: Repertoire of brands of make-up and colour products bought, June 2012
                                                                        • Low brand loyalty ratio, indicates shifting sand for many brands
                                                                          • Figure 30: Brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months and bought most often in the past 12 months, May 2012
                                                                        • High brand similarities cause low loyalty
                                                                          • Figure 31: Attitudes towards make-up and colour cosmetics statements, May 2012
                                                                        • Constant marketing stimulus contributes to high brand switch
                                                                          • Figure 32: Brand preferences in each of the make-up and colour cosmetics product categories, May 2012
                                                                        • Needs-based brand positioning will enhance brand loyalty
                                                                            • Figure 33: Agreement with make-up and colour cosmetics statements, May 2012
                                                                          • Brand portfolio via merging and acquisition (M&A) can lift brand loyalty and brand share
                                                                            • Figure 34: L’Oréal “pyramid of brands”
                                                                          • Brand acquisitions for geographic expansion
                                                                            • Differentiated marketing is the key for local companies to stand out
                                                                              • What it means?
                                                                              • High-end Segment Has Greater Growth Potential

                                                                                • Issues at a glance
                                                                                  • Growing consumer affluence drives high-end make-up and colour cosmetics
                                                                                    • Figure 35: Number of brands of make-up and colour cosmetics bought, by monthly personal income, May 2012
                                                                                  • Emerging middle class craze for luxury shopping spree
                                                                                    • Figure 36: Discretionary spending, April 2012
                                                                                    • Figure 37: Top five luxury items buying intention, by gender, April 2012
                                                                                  • Purchases in duty-free stores or overseas due to high taxes in China
                                                                                    • Figure 38: Top five purchases of luxury items abroad, by gender, April 2012
                                                                                  • Cultivating affluent Chinese users through make-up and colour cosmetics specialty outlets
                                                                                    • Figure 39: Agreement with statements “I am always looking for the latest release of make-up and colour cosmetics to stay ahead of the trend” and “I am very sensitive to the trends in the make-up market”, May 2012
                                                                                  • Beauty salons use elements of exclusivity to boost premium credentials and uniqueness
                                                                                    • Gifting to build a premium image and capture more new customers
                                                                                      • Figure 40: Agreement with statement “Make-up and colour cosmetics products make a good gift”, May 2012
                                                                                      • Figure 41: Brand preferences in each of the make-up and colour cosmetics product categories based on agreement with statement “I often buy a product because of its nice packaging in this category”, May 2012
                                                                                      • Figure 42: Various holidays celebrated by the Chinese
                                                                                    • To connect with affluent and tech-savvy consumers online
                                                                                      • Figure 43: Technology ownership – household, April 2012
                                                                                      • Figure 44: Online shopping, April 2012
                                                                                    • To create an image of luxury online
                                                                                      • What it means?
                                                                                      • The Future of the Market

                                                                                          • Figure 45: Forecast for China’s make-up and colour cosmetics market, by value, 2007-17
                                                                                          • Figure 46: Value sales for make-up and colour cosmetics, 2007-17
                                                                                          • Figure 47: Value sales of make-up and colour cosmetics, by segment, 2007-17
                                                                                      • Appendix – Usage Frequency of Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 48: Usage frequency of make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 49: Usage frequency of make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 50: Most popular usage frequency of lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 51: Next most popular usage frequency of lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 52: Most popular usage frequency of face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 53: Next most popular usage frequency of face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 54: Most popular usage frequency of eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 55: Next most popular usage frequency of eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 56: Most popular usage frequency of nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 57: Next most popular usage frequency of nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 58: Most popular usage frequency of other make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 59: Next most popular usage frequency of other make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Brands of Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products Bought in the Past 12 Months

                                                                                          • Figure 60: Brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 61: Most popular brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 62: Next most popular brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 63: Other brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Number of Brands Bought

                                                                                          • Figure 64: Number of brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, June 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 65: Number of brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought in the past 12 months, by demographics, June 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Brands of Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products Bought Most Often

                                                                                          • Figure 66: Brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought most often, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 67: Most popular brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought most often, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 68: Next most popular brands of make-up and colour cosmetics products bought most often, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Brand Preferences in Each of The Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Product Categories

                                                                                          • Figure 69: Brand preferences in each of the eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) product categories, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 70: Most popular brand preferences in each of the eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 71: Next most popular brand preferences in each of the eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 72: Other brand preferences in each of the eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 73: Brand preferences in each of the face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) product categories, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 74: Most popular brand preferences in each of the face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 75: Next most popular brand preferences in each of the face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 76: Other brand preferences in each of the face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 77: Brand preferences in each of the lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) product categories, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 78: Most popular brand preferences in each of the lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 79: Next most popular brand preferences in each of the lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 80: Other brand preferences in each of the lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 81: Brand preferences in each of the nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) product categories, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 82: Most popular brand preferences in each of the nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 83: Next most popular brand preferences in each of the nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 84: Other brand preferences in each of the nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) product categories, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Per-purchase Spending on Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 85: Per-purchase spending on make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 86: Per-purchase spending on make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 87: Per-purchase spending on eye (this comprises brow, lash/mascaras, liner/pencils and shadow products) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 88: Per-purchase spending on face (this comprises blushes, bronzers, concealers, foundation, powder and primers) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 89: Per-purchase spending on lip (this comprises colour/gloss and liners) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 90: Per-purchase spending on nail (this comprises nail polish/varnish) products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Top Three Consideration Factors When Purchasing Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 91: Top three consideration factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 92: Top rank consideration factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 93: Second rank consideration factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 94: Most popular third rank consideration factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 95: Next most popular third rank consideration factors when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Top Three Product Functions to Consider When Purchasing Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 96: Top three product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 97: Most popular top rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 98: Next most popular top rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 99: Most popular second rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 100: Next most popular second rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 101: Most popular third rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 102: Next most popular third rank product functions to consider when purchasing make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Location to Purchase Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 103: Location to purchase make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 104: Most popular location to purchase make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 105: Next most popular location to purchase make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 106: Other location to purchase make-up and colour cosmetics products, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                      • Appendix – Attitude towards Make-Up and Colour Cosmetics Products

                                                                                          • Figure 107: Attitude towards make-up and colour cosmetics products, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 108: Agreement with the statements ‘Make-up and colour cosmetics products can help me improve my appearance’ and ‘I care more about skincare products (such as moisturisers) than make-up’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 109: Agreement with the statements ‘Make-up and colour cosmetics help to complement what I’m wearing’ and ‘Make-up and colour cosmetics products make a good gift’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 110: Agreement with the statements ‘I've become more interested in the ingredients in my make-up products’ and ‘I prefer to buy make-up and colour cosmetics products with specific functions’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 111: Agreement with the statements ‘Make-up and colour cosmetics can help me attract attention of the opposite sex’ and ‘Make-up and colour cosmetics are considered a daily essential/necessity for me’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 112: Agreement with the statements ‘I express my individuality by wearing make-up’ and ‘I am always looking for the latest release of make-up and colour cosmetics to stay ahead of the trend’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 113: Agreement with the statements ‘There is a big difference in quality between local and international make-up and colour cosmetics brands’ and ‘There are too many make-up and colour cosmetic brands and products and it is hard to make a good choice’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 114: Agreement with the statements ‘Trying to find the right make-up and colour cosmetics product is very difficult’ and ‘I am very sensitive to the trends in the make-up market’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 115: Agreement with the statements ‘I tend to choose brands endorsed by celebrities’ and ‘I always look for promotions when buying make-up and colour cosmetics’, by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 116: Most popular attitude towards make-up and colour cosmetics products (any agree), by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 117: Next most popular attitude towards make-up and colour cosmetics products (any agree), by demographics, May 2012
                                                                                          • Figure 118: Other attitude towards make-up and colour cosmetics products (any agree), by demographics, May 2012

                                                                                      Companies Covered

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                                                                                      Make-up and Colour Cosmetics - China - November 2012

                                                                                      £3,273.18 (Excl.Tax)