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Media and Fashion - UK - February 2010

  • Twenty three million people claim to be uninfluenced by marketing activity, such as advertising, vouchers, magazines and websites . But promotional discount vouchers remain the most popular enticement appealing to almost 7m people.
  • Fashion content in celebrity, lifestyle or fashion magazines, newspaper supplements and features and makeover shows has a direct influence on the shopping behaviour of 2-3.5m people. Women are both the main targets of, and more likely to be influenced by, such coverage.
  • Despite the widespread use of celebrities to wear and endorse clothing brands, few people admit to being influenced by celebrities. Less than 2m people buy celebrity-endorsed or designed clothes (such as Kate Moss at Topshop) or designer ‘guest’ lines (such as Jimmy Choo at H&M).
  • There is a strong streak of practicality in people’s attitudes towards clothes and fashion with half of the population buying clothes as and when they need them. Comfort over style is important for 17m people.
  • Shopping around to find the lowest prices may be important for 15m people but 10m people are prepared to pay more for quality and style.
  • If forced to choose just one main type of outlet for the bulk of their clothes shopping, fifty percent of consumers (19m) prefer mid-market retailers such as M&S and Next, whereas 12m shop at discount chains such as Primark. Almost 5m say they buy most of their clothes from higher-end or designer outlets.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

      • Key themes
        • Definition
          • Abbreviations
          • Future Opportunities

              • It’s showtime!
                • ‘Get Effie’s wardrobe’
                  • ‘You be Laura Lee’s personal shopper’
                    • Yeah, it’s fake – and that’s why we like it
                      • Me in Fashion
                        • Model it before you buy it
                          • Catwalk week on Facebook
                            • Harnessing the power of the creative class
                              • My fashion, my city
                              • Market in Brief

                                • Consumers are reluctant to admit to media persuasion
                                  • Vouchers jump to prominence…
                                    • …but need using selectively
                                      • Online now matches television for influence
                                        • Online shopping for clothes almost matches the leading category, books
                                          • The broadening media landscape
                                            • Fashion brands exploiting digital communications
                                              • Adspend declines in the fashion category
                                                • What consumers are looking for from fashion
                                                  • Shopper types
                                                  • Internal Market Environment

                                                    • Key points
                                                      • Setting the scene
                                                        • Figure 1: Trends in attitudes towards appearance, 2004-09
                                                      • Keep young and beautiful
                                                        • Practicality wins over fashion…
                                                          • Figure 2: Trends in attitudes towards fashion and clothing, 2004-09
                                                        • …and what about buying?
                                                          • Figure 3: Trends in attitudes towards buying clothing, 2004-09
                                                        • Who wants what?
                                                          • Figure 4: Key demographic differences in selected attitudes towards appearance, fashion and clothing, 2009
                                                        • The weight issue
                                                          • Consumer reactions
                                                            • Does celebrity mean sales?
                                                              • In the public eye
                                                                • Advertising trends
                                                                  • Figure 5: Total UK advertising expenditure, 2008
                                                              • Broader Market Environment

                                                                • Key points
                                                                  • Opportunities abound
                                                                    • Figure 6: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2004-14
                                                                  • Unemployment – don’t panic
                                                                    • Figure 7: Levels of employment and unemployment, by gender, 2004-14
                                                                    • Figure 8: Employment and unemployment, Q3 2008-Q3 2009
                                                                  • Growth halted
                                                                    • Figure 9: GDP, PDI, consumer expenditure and savings, at constant 2004 prices, 2004-14
                                                                    • Figure 10: GDP quarterly percentage change, 2004-09
                                                                • The Media Landscape

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • Communication in the round
                                                                      • Traditional print for more dedicated content
                                                                        • Figure 11: Circulation of selected magazine sectors, by type, July-December 2008
                                                                      • And the more general
                                                                        • Not so traditional print
                                                                          • TV – oases within the desert
                                                                            • The age of digital: Niche and more
                                                                              • Figure 12: Selected websites and blogs, by type, as at January 2010
                                                                            • And larger numbers
                                                                              • Advertising – what consumers say
                                                                                • Figure 13: Trends in attitudes towards advertising, 2004-09
                                                                              • Not all media the same
                                                                              • Influence of New Technology

                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                  • Phenomenal growth in internet influence
                                                                                    • Figure 14: Trends in internet-related attitudes, 2004-09
                                                                                  • Building from strength
                                                                                    • General browsing
                                                                                      • Figure 15: Types of websites browsed for information purposes in the last three months, January and April 2009
                                                                                    • What about buying
                                                                                      • Figure 16: Type of websites purchased from in the last three months, top 20, July 2008-October 2009
                                                                                    • The big numbers
                                                                                      • Figure 17: Top ten UK retail websites, by reach, average daily visitors, average minutes per visit and average visits per visitor, July-September 2009*
                                                                                  • Competitive Context

                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                      • Shrinking share
                                                                                        • Figure 18: Changing shares of main categories of spend, at current prices, 1998 and 2008
                                                                                      • The story so far in clothing
                                                                                        • Figure 19: UK retail value sales of clothing, footwear and adornment, at current prices, 2004-09
                                                                                      • Men and women
                                                                                        • Where spending is directed
                                                                                          • Figure 20: UK clothing market – channels of distribution, 2008
                                                                                      • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                          • Adding more dimensions
                                                                                            • A freshen up for M&S and a first for Gap
                                                                                              • Digital promotion
                                                                                                • And integration
                                                                                                  • Apps – they are everywhere
                                                                                                    • Homing in on shoppers
                                                                                                      • Sharing values
                                                                                                        • Do faces help?
                                                                                                        • Brand Communications

                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                            • Budget trimming?
                                                                                                              • Figure 21: Annual advertising expenditure on clothing and accessories, online fashion and fashion retail, 2006-09
                                                                                                            • The big names
                                                                                                              • Figure 22: Top 30 fashion advertisers (ranked by level of spend in 2009), 2006-09
                                                                                                            • Value and mass
                                                                                                              • Media choices
                                                                                                                • Figure 23: Fashion advertising, by medium, 2006-09
                                                                                                              • Wider reach
                                                                                                                • But tighter targeting
                                                                                                                  • How is digital faring?
                                                                                                                    • Figure 24: US online and mobile advertising spending, 2008-13
                                                                                                                  • Alternatives and opportunities
                                                                                                                  • How Consumers Buy – Shopper Types and Attitudes

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • The dominance of the mass market
                                                                                                                        • Figure 25: Where consumers buy the majority of their clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                      • Women – the pragmatists
                                                                                                                        • Figure 26: Where buy majority of clothes, by selected demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                        • Figure 27: Discount fashion shoppers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, December 2009
                                                                                                                        • Figure 28: High-end fashion shoppers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, December 2009
                                                                                                                      • Attitudes towards buying clothes
                                                                                                                        • A strong streak of practicality
                                                                                                                          • Figure 29: Attitudes of consumers towards purchase of clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                        • Watching the pennies
                                                                                                                          • Women – the involved shoppers
                                                                                                                            • Looking beyond price
                                                                                                                              • Figure 30: Consumer attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                            • Individuality and fashion
                                                                                                                              • Heaven or hell
                                                                                                                                • Figure 31: Selected attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, by gender and age, December 2009
                                                                                                                                • Figure 32: Love and hatred of shopping for clothes, by gender and age, December 2009
                                                                                                                              • And implications
                                                                                                                                • Means and attitudes
                                                                                                                                  • Attitudes and shopping behaviour by shopper type
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 33: Consumer attitudes towards clothes/fashion, by where buy majority of clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 34: Attitudes of consumers towards purchase of clothes and fashion in general, by where buy majority of clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                                • Media Influences

                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                    • Choosing where to shop
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 35: Factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by gender, December 2009
                                                                                                                                    • Direct and indirect
                                                                                                                                      • TV for impact
                                                                                                                                        • Proviso
                                                                                                                                          • But reaching the most important groups
                                                                                                                                            • Most open to influences are young women…
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 36: Repertoire of factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by selected demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • …and high-end shoppers
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 37: Factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by where buy majority of clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                                          • Target Groups for Fashion Retailers

                                                                                                                                            • Key point
                                                                                                                                              • Fashion Enthusiasts
                                                                                                                                                • Individualists
                                                                                                                                                  • Price Conscious
                                                                                                                                                    • Apathetic
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 38: Factors influencing choice of outlet for purchasing clothing and footwear, by consumer typologies, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 39: Where buy majority of clothes, by consumer typologies, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 40: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 41: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 42: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 43: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion and clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Broader Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: GDP, PDI, consumer expenditure and savings, at current prices, 2004-14
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Media Landscape

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 47: Media and advertising lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 48: Media and advertising lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Influence of New Technology

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 49: Internet-related lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – How Consumers Buy – Shoppers Types and Attitudes

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 50: Where buy majority of clothes, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 51: Most popular attitudes towards purchase of clothes and fashion in general, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 52: Next most popular attitudes towards purchase of clothes and fashion in general, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Media Influences

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 53: Most popular attitudes towards clothes/fashion, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 54: Next most popular attitudes towards clothes/fashion, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 55: Most popular factors influencing the choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 56: Next most popular factors influencing the choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 57: Other factors influencing the choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 58: Repertoire analysis on factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 59: Repertoire of factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 60: Repertoire of factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, by where buy majority of clothes, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Target Groups for Fashion Retailers

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 61: Target groups, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 62: Attitudes towards clothes/fashion, by target groups, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 63: Attitudes towards purchase of clothes and fashion in general, by target groups, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 64: Repertoire of factors influencing choice of outlet for purchasing clothing and footwear, by target groups, December 2009

                                                                                                                                                    Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                    • Abercrombie & Fitch Co
                                                                                                                                                    • Aldi Stores Ltd (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                    • Apple Retail UK
                                                                                                                                                    • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • ASOS
                                                                                                                                                    • Audit Bureau of Circulations
                                                                                                                                                    • Brantano (Group)
                                                                                                                                                    • British Market Research Bureau (BMRB)
                                                                                                                                                    • British Sky Broadcasting Group plc (BSkyB)
                                                                                                                                                    • Burberry Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                    • Chanel Ltd (UK)
                                                                                                                                                    • Co-operative Group
                                                                                                                                                    • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                    • Department of Health
                                                                                                                                                    • Dolce & Gabbana
                                                                                                                                                    • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                    • Giorgio Armani S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                    • Government Actuary's Department (GAD)
                                                                                                                                                    • Gucci Group N.V.
                                                                                                                                                    • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                    • Harvey Nichols UK
                                                                                                                                                    • Home Retail Group
                                                                                                                                                    • Homebase Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                    • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                    • JCDecaux SA
                                                                                                                                                    • John Lewis Plc (department store)
                                                                                                                                                    • Karen Millen
                                                                                                                                                    • Kurt Geiger Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Lidl (UK)
                                                                                                                                                    • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                    • Matalan Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • New Look Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                    • Next Group
                                                                                                                                                    • Nike
                                                                                                                                                    • Peacocks
                                                                                                                                                    • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Ralph Lauren Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Shop Direct Group
                                                                                                                                                    • Sony (UK) Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Swarovski
                                                                                                                                                    • T-Mobile (UK) Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Ted Baker
                                                                                                                                                    • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                    • The TJX Companies
                                                                                                                                                    • Tiffany & Co.
                                                                                                                                                    • Timberland UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                    • Twitter, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                    • Virgin Media Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Virgin Mobile
                                                                                                                                                    • Vodafone Group Plc (UK)
                                                                                                                                                    • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                    • Wm Morrison Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                    • World Advertising Research Center
                                                                                                                                                    • YouTube, Inc.

                                                                                                                                                    Media and Fashion - UK - February 2010

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