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Natural and Organic Beauty - UK - February 2010

This is the first time Mintel has examined the UK market for natural and organic beauty and personal care products. However, the subject has been touched on in Mintel’s report Consumer Attitudes Towards Beauty Product Ingredients – UK, May 2009. This report expands on the section dealing with new natural beauty product launches drawing largely from Mintel’s GNPD.

  • A lack of regulation surrounding the natural and organic claims of toiletries has lead to a vast and confusing scale of ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ in the beauty aisles. People find it difficult to distinguish all- natural and organic products from those that only contain extracts.
  • Three in ten women use only natural and organic products where possible. However, the consumer definition of ‘natural’ is as wide-ranging as the products available.
  • Price is more of an influence than natural or organic ingredients when people decide which beauty and personal care products to buy. Less than 5 million adults believe that natural and organic toiletries are better quality than standard alternatives.
  • There is deep-seated mistrust of natural and organic toiletries, which are seen as a marketing gimmick to inflate prices. This puts natural and organic products at odds with the bargain-hunting mentality that has thrived during the recession.
  • The ‘free-from’ claim has encouraged the perception that chemicals are harmful. Even the adults who actively avoid certain chemicals are uncertain as to the ways in which chemicals are harmful.
  • Almost half of adults believe that natural and organic toiletries are better for the environment but there is little awareness of provenance or of the freight miles that the ingredients have travelled to reach the bathroom cabinet.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

      • Key themes
        • Definition
          • Beauty and personal care products
            • Beauty and personal care services
              • Natural and organic
                • Natural
                  • Organic
                    • Important note
                      • Abbreviations
                      • Future Opportunities

                        • Simply natural
                          • Green light on labelling?
                            • Price evaluation
                              • Better-for-you proposition on shaky ground
                              • Market in Brief

                                • Lack of standards
                                  • Innovation
                                    • Consumer confusion
                                      • Purchase
                                      • Internal Market Environment

                                        • Key points
                                          • Consumer interest in ingredients
                                            • Figure 1: Selected attitudes towards cosmetics and toiletries ingredients, December 2008
                                          • Chemical-free lifestyles
                                            • Figure 2: Attitudes towards the origins of cosmetics and toiletries ingredients, December 2008
                                          • Attitudes towards organic products
                                            • Figure 3: Attitudes towards natural/organic products, 2004-09
                                          • Allergies and ailments
                                            • Figure 4: Selected minor ailments and skin conditions suffered from in the last 12 months, 2004-09
                                        • Broader Market Environment

                                          • Key points
                                            • Population
                                              • Figure 5: Structure of the UK population, by age and gender, 2004-14
                                            • Organically managed land
                                              • Standards and regulations
                                                • COSMOS-standard
                                                  • NaTrue
                                                    • REACH
                                                      • Organisations
                                                        • The Organic Trade Board
                                                          • Soil Association
                                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • Natural growth
                                                                • Figure 6: UK retail value sales of the beauty industry, at current prices, by sector, 2004-14
                                                              • Estimated worth of natural and organic toiletries
                                                                • Figure 7: Estimated value sales of natural and organic toiletries 2007-09
                                                            • Competitive Context

                                                              • Key points
                                                                • Innovation in context
                                                                  • Figure 8: ‘Organic’ or ‘all-natural’ product launches, by market, 2004-09
                                                                • Performance of organic market
                                                                  • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of organic foods, at current and constant 2008 prices, 2003-13
                                                                • Impact of the recession
                                                                • Strengths and Weaknesses

                                                                  • Strengths
                                                                    • Weaknesses
                                                                    • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                      • Key points
                                                                        • Degrees of naturalness
                                                                            • Figure 10: Natural launches, by positioning, 2005-09
                                                                          • Greenest category
                                                                            • Figure 11: Percentage of launches that claim to be natural, by category, 2007-09
                                                                          • Skincare dominates natural launches
                                                                            • Figure 12: Distribution of ‘natural’ product launches, by category, 2007-09
                                                                          • Innovators
                                                                            • Figure 13: Leading innovators in ‘natural’ beauty and personal care products, by holding company, UK, 2007-09
                                                                        • Companies and Products

                                                                            • Figure 14: Companies operating in the natural and organic beauty and personal care sector, 2009
                                                                          • Lush
                                                                              • Figure 15: Lush Retail financials, 2007-08
                                                                            • The Body Shop
                                                                                • Figure 16: The Body Shop International PLC, UK financials, 2007-08
                                                                              • Neal’s Yard Remedies
                                                                                • Molton Brown
                                                                                  • Figure 17: Molton Brown financials, 2007-08
                                                                                • The Organic Pharmacy
                                                                                  • Estée Lauder
                                                                                    • Aveda
                                                                                      • Origins
                                                                                        • Dr Hauschka
                                                                                          • Clorox
                                                                                            • Burt’s Bees
                                                                                              • REN
                                                                                                • Others
                                                                                                  • Nude skincare
                                                                                                    • L’Occitane
                                                                                                      • Essential Care (Organics) Ltd
                                                                                                        • Miss Honey
                                                                                                          • Modern Organic Products (MOP)
                                                                                                            • Tisserand Aromatherapy
                                                                                                              • John Masters Organics
                                                                                                              • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                  • Methodology outline
                                                                                                                    • Spend stalls in the recession
                                                                                                                      • Niche players are small spenders
                                                                                                                        • Majors pay more
                                                                                                                        • Influences on Purchase of Beauty and Personal Care

                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Price is the priority
                                                                                                                              • Figure 18: Influences on purchase of beauty and personal care products, December 2009
                                                                                                                            • Natural and organic a turn-off
                                                                                                                              • Number of purchase influences
                                                                                                                                • Figure 19: Repertoire of influences on purchase of beauty and personal care products, January 2010
                                                                                                                              • Men keep it simple
                                                                                                                                • Figure 20: Influences on purchase of beauty and personal care products by number of influences taken into consideration when buying beauty and personal care products, January 2010
                                                                                                                              • Women influenced by more factors
                                                                                                                              • Perceptions of Natural and Organic

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • Natural goodness
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 21: Consumer perceptions of natural or organic beauty and personal care products, December 2009
                                                                                                                                  • Consumer perceptions of natural vs chemicals
                                                                                                                                    • Environmental agenda
                                                                                                                                      • Free range with the ‘free-from’ claim
                                                                                                                                        • The true cost of natural and organic
                                                                                                                                        • Attitudes Towards Natural and Organic Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                            • Confusion of the over-optioned consumer
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 22: Attitudes towards natural and organic beauty and personal care products, December 2009
                                                                                                                                            • Assumptions and obstacles when checking ingredients
                                                                                                                                              • Natural no better
                                                                                                                                                • Impact of income
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 23: Adults who say they have used natural and organic beauty personal care products in 2009, by household income, December 2009
                                                                                                                                              • Appendix

                                                                                                                                                  • ACORN
                                                                                                                                                    • Advertising data
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix: Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 24: Selected attitudes towards reading ingredients of cosmetics and toiletries, by demographics, December 2008
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 25: Attitudes towards reading ingredients of cosmetics and toiletries, by demographics, December 2008
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 26: Next most popular attitudes towards reading ingredients of cosmetics and toiletries by demographics, December 2008
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 27: Attitudes towards the origins of cosmetics and toiletries ingredients, December 2008
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 28: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Influences on Purchase of Beauty and Personal Care

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 29: Influences on purchase of beauty and personal care products, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 30: Influences on purchase of beauty and personal care products, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                      • Number of purchase influences
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 31: Influence on purchase of beauty and personal care products, by repertoire of influence on purchase of beauty and personal care products, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 32: Repertoire of influence on purchase of beauty and personal care products, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Perceptions of Natural and Organic

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 33: Description of organic and/or natural beauty and personal care, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 34: Description of organic and/or natural beauty and personal care, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Attitudes Towards Natural and Organic Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 35: Most popular attitudes towards natural/organic toiletries, by demographics, January 2010
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 36: Next most popular attitudes towards natural/organic toiletries, by demographics, January 2010

                                                                                                                                                    Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                    • Aldi Stores Ltd (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                    • Alliance Boots
                                                                                                                                                    • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Aveda
                                                                                                                                                    • Birds Eye Foods
                                                                                                                                                    • British Market Research Bureau (BMRB)
                                                                                                                                                    • Carbon Trust
                                                                                                                                                    • Co-operative Group
                                                                                                                                                    • Colgate-Palmolive UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs
                                                                                                                                                    • Dr Hauschka (WALA Heilmittel GmbH)
                                                                                                                                                    • Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (The)
                                                                                                                                                    • Harvey Nichols UK
                                                                                                                                                    • Holland & Barrett Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                    • John Lewis Plc (department store)
                                                                                                                                                    • L'Occitane Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • L'Oréal (UK)
                                                                                                                                                    • Lancôme
                                                                                                                                                    • Lidl (UK)
                                                                                                                                                    • Lush Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                    • Molton Brown
                                                                                                                                                    • Natural Products Association
                                                                                                                                                    • Organic Trade Association
                                                                                                                                                    • Oriflame Cosmetics (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                    • Outdoor Advertising Association of Great Britain
                                                                                                                                                    • Procter & Gamble UK & Ireland
                                                                                                                                                    • Puig Beauty & Fashion Group, S.L.
                                                                                                                                                    • PZ Cussons
                                                                                                                                                    • Royal Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain
                                                                                                                                                    • Soil Association
                                                                                                                                                    • Somerfield
                                                                                                                                                    • Space NK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                    • The Body Shop - Retail Sales
                                                                                                                                                    • The Green People Company Ltd
                                                                                                                                                    • The Organic Pharmacy
                                                                                                                                                    • Tisserand Aromatherapy
                                                                                                                                                    • Twitter, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                    • U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
                                                                                                                                                    • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                    • Weleda
                                                                                                                                                    • Wm Morrison Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                    • YouTube, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                    • Yves Rocher UK

                                                                                                                                                    Natural and Organic Beauty - UK - February 2010

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