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Private Label Beauty Products and Toiletries - UK - May 2011

"As might be expected, the recession has supported purchases of own-label products with a rise in the number of consumers choosing these alternatives to brands. Yet, value sales haven’t benefited to any great extent. Indeed, any volume sales gain own-label has made in terms of purchasing has been more than offset by the brands’ unprecedented levels of price promotions during this time."

– Michelle Strutton, Senior Consumer Analyst

Consumer research

This report concentrates on consumer purchasing of cosmetics and toiletries through non-specialist retailers of cosmetics and toiletries (primarily grocery and chemist multiples) to investigate attitudes towards buying manufacturer-branded vs. own-label products. Consumer purchasing through single-branded C&T outlets, such as The Body Shop, Lush, Molton Brown, L’Occitane, Penhaligon’s, Benefit, and so on, is not included.

Market size

Market size data for private-label cosmetics and toiletries include sales through non-specialist outlets (eg grocers) as well as specialist single-brand multiples (eg The Body Shop).

  • How far has the recession favoured sales of private-label beauty products and trading down by consumers?
  • Are private-label beauty products becoming more acceptable to consumers?
  • No7 is the beauty queen of private label. Can other own-brands ever compete?
  • Are consumers rejecting brands?
  • What do own-brands need to focus on now?

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Definitions
        • Consumer research
          • Market size
            • Abbreviations
            • Executive Summary

                • The market
                  • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast sales of private-label cosmetics and toiletries, 2010-15
                • Private-label sales remain static despite raised expectations
                  • Own-label dominates in suncare, colour cosmetics and skincare - due to Boots
                    • Figure 2: Own-label share of sales, by sector, 2010
                  • All eyes on men
                    • Market factors
                      • Economic pressure has encouraged own-label purchase
                        • Demographic changes bode well for future of own-label
                          • Figure 3: Change in the age structure of the UK population, 2005-15
                        • Companies, brands and innovation
                          • Boots drives the market with leading brands
                            • Figure 4: Private-label sales of cosmetics and toiletries, by outlet type, 2010
                          • NPD activity soars
                            • Figure 5: Private-label share of C&T product launches, 2006-10
                          • From sirtuins to stem cells: technology hits own-label skincare
                            • The consumer
                              • Figure 6: Women’s purchasing of own-label vs. branded C&T, by sector, March 2011
                              • Figure 7: Men’s purchasing of own-label vs. branded C&T, by sector, March 2011
                            • Toiletries are most purchased own-label products
                              • Acceptance of own-label quality is on the rise, but consumers prefer brands
                                • Toiletries
                                  • Haircare
                                    • Skincare
                                      • Good value is about more than price
                                        • Figure 8: Attitudes towards brands vs. own-label C&T, March 2011
                                      • Questions over brand loyalty
                                        • What we think
                                        • Issues in the Market

                                            • How far has the recession favoured sales of private-label beauty products and trading down by consumers?
                                              • Are private-label beauty products becoming more acceptable to consumers?
                                                • No7 is the beauty queen of private label. Can other own-brands ever compete?
                                                  • Are consumers rejecting brands?
                                                    • What do own-brands need to focus on now?
                                                    • Future Opportunities

                                                        • Trend: Patriot Games
                                                          • Trend: Cam Cam
                                                          • Internal Market Environment

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • Recession supports own-label purchasing...
                                                                • ...but brands' response undermines it
                                                                  • Influence of attitudes towards appearance
                                                                    • Figure 9: Trends in attitudes towards personal appearance, by gender, 2006-10
                                                                  • Men are important to own-label
                                                                      • Figure 10: Trends in level of receptiveness to quality, 2006-10
                                                                    • Improvements in own-label quality prompt rise in purchases
                                                                      • Brands in their own right
                                                                        • Are consumers losing faith in beauty brands?
                                                                          • Rising cost of raw materials
                                                                            • Changes to safety regulations in cosmetics industry
                                                                              • Animal testing
                                                                                • Own-label and BUAV
                                                                                • Broader Market Environment

                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                    • Value-for-money focus continues for C&T shoppers
                                                                                      • Figure 11: PDI and consumer expenditure, at current prices, 2005-15
                                                                                      • Figure 12: Changing grocery shopping habits, January 2009-June 2010
                                                                                    • Budget beauty and redefining ‘value’
                                                                                      • Influence of changes in demographic profile of population
                                                                                        • Figure 13: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2005-15
                                                                                    • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                        • Figure 14: Private label’s share of cosmetics and toiletries product launches, UK, 2006-10
                                                                                        • Figure 15: Private label’s share of product launches, by sector, UK, 2010
                                                                                      • High street tries on own-label for size
                                                                                        • Tesco's beauty overhaul
                                                                                          • Superdrug – growing own-brand in its own way
                                                                                            • Soap, bath and shower own-label gains ground in recession
                                                                                              • Figure 16: New product launches within the soap, bath and shower market– branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                            • Spa launches refresh category
                                                                                              • Retailers trial in-store spa experiences
                                                                                                • Make-up gains from high street entries
                                                                                                  • Figure 17: New product launches within colour cosmetics – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                • Econo-chic cosmetics
                                                                                                  • No7 nails beauty with technology
                                                                                                    • Skincare NPD surges by 30%
                                                                                                      • Figure 18: New product launches within skincare – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                    • Boots boosts own-label skincare with Protect & Perfect
                                                                                                      • Success stories and sell-outs
                                                                                                        • Own-brand deodorants refresh claims
                                                                                                          • Figure 19: New product launches within deodorants – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                        • Scenting fresh demand in fragrance
                                                                                                          • Figure 20: New product launches within fragrance – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                        • Haircare – a brand's world
                                                                                                          • Figure 21: New product launches within haircare – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                        • Own-label shaves off NPD
                                                                                                          • Figure 22: New product launches within shaving and depilatories – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                        • Fresh burst of activity in oral hygiene
                                                                                                          • Figure 23: New product launches within oral hygiene – branded vs. own-label, 2008-10
                                                                                                      • Strengths and Weaknesses

                                                                                                        • Strengths
                                                                                                          • Weaknesses
                                                                                                          • Competitive Context

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Own-labels gain less than might be expected from recession
                                                                                                                • Experience of own-label in food and drink
                                                                                                                  • Personal care spending breakdown
                                                                                                                    • Figure 24: UK retail value sales of selected beauty and personal care categories, 2005-10
                                                                                                                • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                    • Performance dampened by price promotions
                                                                                                                      • Figure 25: UK retail value sales of private-label cosmetics and toiletries, 2005-10
                                                                                                                    • How are own-brand manufacturers faring?
                                                                                                                      • Future of the market
                                                                                                                        • Forecast
                                                                                                                          • Figure 26: Best- and worst-case forecast sales of private-label cosmetics and toiletries, 2010-15
                                                                                                                      • Segment Performance

                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                          • Figure 27: Private-label sales of beauty and personal care products, by sector, 2010
                                                                                                                          • Figure 28: Private label share of sector sales, 2010
                                                                                                                        • Soap, bath and shower
                                                                                                                          • Male grooming
                                                                                                                            • Making gains: Skincare, colour cosmetics and hair styling
                                                                                                                              • Losing share: Suncare and Haircare
                                                                                                                                • Oral hygiene
                                                                                                                                • Leading Private-label Retailers

                                                                                                                                  • The power of Boots
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 29: Private-label sales of cosmetics and toiletries, by outlet type, 2010
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 30: UK: leading beauty specialists, 2009/10
                                                                                                                                  • Boots
                                                                                                                                    • Superdrug
                                                                                                                                      • The Body Shop
                                                                                                                                        • Tesco
                                                                                                                                        • Private-label Manufacturers

                                                                                                                                          • McBride
                                                                                                                                            • Boots Contract Manufacturing (BCM)
                                                                                                                                              • Swallowfield
                                                                                                                                                • Acheson & Acheson
                                                                                                                                                  • LF Beauty
                                                                                                                                                    • Meller Design Solutions
                                                                                                                                                    • Brand Research

                                                                                                                                                      • Brand map
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 31: Attitudes towards and usage of retailer own-label beauty brands, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                        • Brand attitudes
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 32: Attitudes by retailer own-label beauty brand, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                        • Brand personality
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 33: Retailer own-label beauty brand personality – macro image, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 34: Retailer own-label beauty brand personality – micro image, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                        • Correspondence analysis
                                                                                                                                                          • Brand experience
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 35: Retailer own-label beauty brand usage, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 36: Satisfaction with various retailer own-label beauty brands, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 37: Consideration of retailer own-label beauty brands, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 38: Consumer perceptions of current retailer own-label beauty brand performance, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 39: Retailer own-label beauty brand recommendation – Net Promoter Score, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                          • Brand index
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 40: Retailer own-label beauty brand index, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 41: Retailer own-label beauty brand index vs. recommendation, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                          • Target group analysis
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 42: Target groups, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 43: Retailer own-label beauty brand usage, by target groups, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                          • Group One – The Conformists
                                                                                                                                                            • Group Two – Simply the Best
                                                                                                                                                              • Group Three – Shelf Stalkers
                                                                                                                                                                • Group Four – Habitual Shoppers
                                                                                                                                                                  • Group Five – The Individualists
                                                                                                                                                                  • Consumer – Brand and Own-Label Purchases by Category

                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Women’s purchasing of own-label vs. branded C&T, by sector, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Men’s purchasing of own-label vs. branded C&T, by sector, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                      • Toiletries
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: Buying habits – toiletries, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                      • Who buys own-label toiletries?
                                                                                                                                                                        • Haircare
                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 47: Buying habits – haircare, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Who buys own-label haircare?
                                                                                                                                                                          • Facial skincare
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 48: Buying habits – facial skincare, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          • Who buys own-label skincare?
                                                                                                                                                                            • Make-up
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 49: Buying habits – make-up, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                            • Who buys own-label make-up?
                                                                                                                                                                            • Consumer – Changes in Buying Habits

                                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 50: Changes in cosmetics and toiletries buying habits, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                • Price savings prompt rise in penetration of own-label...
                                                                                                                                                                                  • ...yet quality and choice play a role too
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Who is buying less own-label?
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 51: Changes in toiletries buying habits, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 52: Changes in haircare buying habits, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 53: Changes in facial skincare buying habits, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 54: Changes in make-up buying habits – women, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Consumer – Most Popular Own-Labels

                                                                                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 55: C&T own-label products bought in last 12 months, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Boots
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Superdrug
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Consumer – Attitudes towards Quality

                                                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 56: Agreement with statements about private label vs. branded cosmetics and toiletries, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Brand loyalty driven by quality
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Rising standards of own-label recognised by many
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • What does 'value' mean to consumers?
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Innovation and presentation of own-label
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Growth potential for own-label
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Own-label choice confuses older consumers
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Own-label loyalty
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Consumer – Attitudes towards Own-Label Toiletries

                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 57: Agreement with statements about private label – toiletries, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • The acceptance of own-label toiletries
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Economy toiletry ranges
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Branded toiletries appeal to older consumers and higher earners
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • 35-44s are most brand-loyal
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Consumer – Attitudes Towards Own-Label Haircare

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Agreement with statements about private label – haircare, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Brands most popular in haircare
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Price promotions and missed opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Young women see own-label haircare as inferior in quality
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Consumer – Attitudes Towards Own-Label Skincare

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 59: Agreement with statements about private label – facial skincare, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Brand power in skincare
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • 45-54s are key targets for own-label skincare
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Product recommendations and the media
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Consumer – Attitudes Towards Own-Label Make-Up

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 60: Agreement with statements about private label – make-up, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Quality recognised by some, but encouragement needed for all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – Brand Research

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Brand usage, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 62: Brand commitment, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 63: Brand momentum, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 64: Brand diversity, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 65: Brand satisfaction, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 66: Brand recommendation, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 67: Brand attitude, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 68: Brand image - Macro image, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 69: Brand image - Micro image, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 70: Profile of target groups, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 71: Psychographic segmentation by Target groups, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 72: Brand usage by Target groups, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 73: Brand index, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – Consumer – Brand and Own-Label Purchases by Category

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 74: Buying habits – toiletries, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 75: Buying habits – haircare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 76: Buying habits – facial skincare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 77: Buying habits – make-up, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – Consumer – Changes in Buying Habits

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 78: Changes in buying habits, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – Consumer – Where Do They Buy Own-Label

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 79: Most popular products bought in last 12 months, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 80: Next most popular products bought in last 12 months, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 81: Other products bought in last 12 months, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Appendix – Consumer – Attitudes towards Own-Label

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 82: Most popular agreement with statements about private label, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 83: Next most popular agreement with statements about private label, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 84: Other agreement with statements about private label, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 85: Most popular agreement with statements about private label – toiletries, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 86: Next most popular agreement with statements about private label – toiletries, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 87: Most popular agreement with statements about private label – haircare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 88: Next most popular agreement with statements about private label – haircare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 89: Most popular agreement with statements about private label – facial skincare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 90: Most popular agreement with statements about private label – facial skincare, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 91: Most popular agreement with statements about private label – make-up, by demographics, March 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 92: Next most popular agreement with statements about private label – make-up, by demographics, March 2011

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Advertising Standards Authority
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Aldi Stores Ltd (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Alliance Boots
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Avon Cosmetics Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Bank of England
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Beiersdorf UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Carrefour
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Co-operative Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Colgate-Palmolive UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Duchy Originals
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Forest Stewardship Council
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Gillette UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Government Actuary's Department (GAD)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Holland & Barrett Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Kantar Media
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • L'Oréal (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • La Senza Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Lidl (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Procter & Gamble UK & Ireland
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Soil Association
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Superdrug Stores Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • The Body Shop - Retail Sales
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Toni & Guy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • United Nations Children's Fund (UNICEF)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Wm Morrison Supermarkets

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Private Label Beauty Products and Toiletries - UK - May 2011

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          £1,995.00 (Excl.Tax)