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Underwear - UK - March 2010

  • In a challenging economic environment, the £2.57 billion underwear market has held up reasonably well, although there have been some casualties – notably Intimas.
  • Although people might be cutting back on their underwear purchasing, just 3m men and 1m women did
  • not buy new underwear in 2009.
  • Women account for more than 70% of underwear spend because they buy a greater number of items. women buy underwear for a host of reasons or occasions, whereas men stick largely to replacement buys.
  • Replacement might be the key reason for buying underwear for more than 30m adults but 15m are prompted to buy new underwear by a price offer, such as a sale or a voucher.
  • More than 10m people buy underwear either on impulse (ie as a treat) or for a special occasion, such as going on holiday.
  • Own-brand dominates the underwear sector. Almost 20m people bought underwear from M&S compared to 13m from a supermarket and 12m from a value retailer. By contrast, 6m people wear Calvin Klein undies – the leading non-retail brand.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

      • Main themes
        • Definition
          • Abbreviations
          • Future Opportunities

            • Selling romance
              • The Hen Weekend
                • And if it all goes pear-shaped…
                  • (Y) fronting men’s health issues
                    • ‘Know your prostate’ pants
                      • ‘Protect your crown jewels’ briefs
                      • Market in Brief

                        • The ‘essentials’ really are essential
                          • Brighter spots
                            • There are many positives
                              • The market today
                                • Own-label
                                  • Key buyers
                                    • Future prospects
                                    • Internal Market Environment

                                      • Key points
                                        • Fashion – the broader trends
                                          • Fashion – a real catwalk trigger
                                            • Glam it up
                                              • Does celebrity mean sales?
                                                • Figure 1: Examples of current or recent celebrity and designer associations, February 2010
                                              • Weight issues
                                                • Fitness and exercise
                                                  • Figure 2: Adults participating in exercise and percentage of adults who are overweight, 2009
                                                • Eco awareness
                                                  • Open to the world
                                                    • The feelgood factor benefiting others
                                                    • Broader Market Environment

                                                      • Key points
                                                        • Potential areas of opportunity
                                                          • Figure 3: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2004-14
                                                        • Some decline
                                                          • Babies
                                                            • Figure 4: Birth rate, 2004-14
                                                          • My money is my own
                                                            • Figure 5: Importance of employment and socio-economic group to sales of underwear, by gender, 2010
                                                            • Figure 6: Trends in UK workforce and female employment, 2004-14
                                                          • The aspirational buy
                                                            • Figure 7: UK population, by socio-economic group, 2004-14
                                                          • Are hard times almost at an end?
                                                            • Figure 8: GDP, PDI, consumer expenditure and savings, at current prices, 2004-14
                                                        • Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

                                                          • Strengths
                                                            • Weaknesses
                                                            • Who’s Innovating?

                                                              • Key points
                                                                • A new improved body
                                                                  • Control wear for men
                                                                    • More shape enhancing
                                                                      • No more VBS
                                                                        • Invisibility
                                                                          • Going digital
                                                                          • Competitive Context

                                                                            • Key points
                                                                              • Underwear compared to outerwear and footwear
                                                                                • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of men’s and women’s underwear, footwear and outerwear, 2004-09
                                                                              • Wants rather than needs
                                                                              • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                  • Underwear overview – sound if not sparkling
                                                                                    • Figure 10: UK retail sales of underwear, by gender, 2004-14
                                                                                  • Women are the mainstay
                                                                                    • The future
                                                                                      • A cautionary note
                                                                                        • Factors used in the forecast
                                                                                        • Market Segment Performance

                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                            • Men’s underwear
                                                                                              • Figure 11: UK retail value sales of men’s underwear, by type, 2004-14
                                                                                            • Functionality
                                                                                              • Socks – the basics
                                                                                                • Shape and performance
                                                                                                  • A brief look at underpants
                                                                                                    • Long johns
                                                                                                      • Women’s underwear
                                                                                                        • Figure 12: UK retail value sales of women’s underwear, by type, 2004-14
                                                                                                      • The pricing context
                                                                                                        • Figure 13: Selected examples of value pricing in women’s underwear market, 2010
                                                                                                      • Sensuality, seduction and style
                                                                                                        • Figure 14: Selected examples of premium and luxury pricing in women’s underwear market, 2010
                                                                                                      • Mass market and niche
                                                                                                        • Bras for every occasion
                                                                                                          • Other lingerie
                                                                                                            • Hosiery
                                                                                                              • Briefs
                                                                                                              • Market Share

                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                  • Brand shares in women’s lingerie
                                                                                                                    • Figure 15: Brand shares in UK retail value sales of lingerie, 2008 and 2009
                                                                                                                  • Brand shares in men’s underwear
                                                                                                                    • Figure 16: Brand shares in UK retail value sales of men’s underwear, 2008 and 2009
                                                                                                                  • Own-label gaining share
                                                                                                                  • Companies and Products

                                                                                                                      • Ann Summers/Knickerbox
                                                                                                                          • Figure 17: Profile of Ann Summers website visitors, by age, January 2010
                                                                                                                          • Figure 18: Ann Summers and Knickerbox, brands/products
                                                                                                                          • Figure 19: Ann Summers, financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08
                                                                                                                        • Arcadia Group
                                                                                                                            • Figure 20: Profile of Arcadia website visitors, by age, January 2010
                                                                                                                            • Figure 21: Arcadia Group, underwear brands/product
                                                                                                                            • Figure 22: Arcadia Group, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
                                                                                                                          • Courtaulds Textiles
                                                                                                                              • Figure 23: Courtaulds Textiles, underwear brands/product
                                                                                                                            • DB Apparel UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                • Figure 24: DB Apparel, underwear brands/product
                                                                                                                              • Debenhams
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 25: Debenhams underwear product and brands
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 26: Debenhams, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
                                                                                                                                • Eveden
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 27: Eveden, underwear brands/products
                                                                                                                                  • Figleaves
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 28: Profile of Figleaves website visitors, by age, January 2010
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 29: Figleaves, products and brands
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 30: Figleaves, financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08
                                                                                                                                    • George at Asda
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 31: George at Asda, women’s underwear product/brands
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 32: Asda Group Ltd, financial performance, 2004-08
                                                                                                                                      • La Senza
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 33: La Senza products
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 34: La Senza, financial performance, 2004-08
                                                                                                                                        • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 35: Marks & Spencer, products and brands
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 36: Marks & Spencer, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
                                                                                                                                          • Primark
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 37: Profile of Primark website visitors, by age, January 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 38: Primark underwear products/brands
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 39: Primark, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
                                                                                                                                            • Triumph International
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 40: Triumph International, underwear brands/product
                                                                                                                                              • Other companies of note
                                                                                                                                                • Aubade
                                                                                                                                                  • Bendon (Cullen Investments)
                                                                                                                                                    • Blooming Marvellous
                                                                                                                                                      • Chantelle
                                                                                                                                                        • Hanro
                                                                                                                                                          • Janet Reger
                                                                                                                                                            • Jockey
                                                                                                                                                              • MJM International
                                                                                                                                                                • Palmers Textil AG
                                                                                                                                                                  • Panache
                                                                                                                                                                    • Pantherella
                                                                                                                                                                      • Rigby & Peller
                                                                                                                                                                        • Warnaco Group
                                                                                                                                                                        • Channels of Distribution

                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 41: UK retail value sales of underwear, by outlet type, 2004-09
                                                                                                                                                                          • Variety stores
                                                                                                                                                                            • Value retailers
                                                                                                                                                                              • Clothing multiples
                                                                                                                                                                                • Department stores
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Specialist retailers
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 42: Examples of underwear specialists, 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Retail Advertising and Promotion

                                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                      • General spending trends
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 43: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, 2005-09
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by month, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                      • The most visible brands
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by top advertisers (ranked on 2009 spend), 2008 and 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                      • The large and the small
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Media choices
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 46: Adspend by media type, percentage of total, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Below the line
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Internet browsing habits
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 47: Visitors to underwear websites, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 48: Visitors to Ann Summers, La Senza and Figleaves websites, by demographics, February 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Types of Underwear Purchased

                                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Looking first at women’s buying
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 49: Underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Briefs – Top in the ‘bottoms’ market
                                                                                                                                                                                              • A little improvement
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Key buyer groups
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 50: Key demographic differences in most popular types of underwear bought by women, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Time to get your thermals out
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • And turning to men
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 51: Underwear bought by men in the last 12 months, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 52: Key demographic differences in most popular types of underwear bought by men, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Broader overview
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Presumed self-purchase
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 53: Trends in underwear purchase, by gender, 2005-09
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Purchase for others
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 54: Trends in women’s purchase of men’s underwear and men’s purchase of women’s underwear, 2006-09
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Who are the targets for gifts and everyday purchase?
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 55: Men’s and women’s expenditure on women’s and men’s underwear, by age and socio-economic group, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Retailers and Brands

                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Retailer choices
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Marks & Spencer still dominant but...
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 56: Shopper base of leading underwear retailers and brands, by age and affluence, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 57: Similarities and differences in men’s and women’s underwear purchase, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 58: Shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by gender, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Age tells
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 59: Selected shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by age, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Broad repertoire for most
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 60: Selected shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by socio-economic group, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Brand choices
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 61: Brands of underwear worn by men, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 62: Brands of underwear worn by women, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • High level of fragmentation
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 63: Selected brands of underwear worn, by age and socio-economic group, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Reasons to Purchase

                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Replacement yes...but what else?
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 64: Reasons to buy underwear, by gender, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Women find more reasons to buy underwear
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Replacement as key again
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 65: Repertoire of factors prompting underwear purchase, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Women are more open to influence
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Replacement, replacement, replacement
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 66: Factors prompting to buy underwear, by number of factors, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 67: Reasons to purchase underwear, netted responses, by gender, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Replacement buyers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Price-motivated
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Impulse buyers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Occasion-led buyers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 68: Factors prompting underwear purchase, by target groups, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Where the groups shop
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 69: Shops from where bought underwear in the last 12 months, by target groups, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 70: Underwear bought in the last 12 months, by gender, by target groups, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 71: Selected forms of exercise done weekly or more often, by gender and age, July 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 72: Further selected forms of exercise done weekly or more often, by gender and age, July 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Broader Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 74: Trends in the age structure of the UK population aged 10+, by gender, 2004-14
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Retail Advertising and Promotion

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 73: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by top advertisers (ranked on 2009 spend), 2008 and 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Types of Underwear Purchased

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 75: Lingerie items bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 76: Women’s expenditure on bras, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 77: Men’s expenditure on underwear, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 78: Women’s expenditure on men’s underwear, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 79: Men’s expenditure on women’s underwear, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 80: Most popular underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 81: Next most popular underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 82: Underwear bought by men in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Retailers and Brands

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 83: Most popular shops from where bought underwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 84: Next most popular shops from where bought underwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Brand recognition
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 85: Most popular brands of underwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 86: Next most popular brands of underwear, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Reasons to Purchase

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 87: Most popular features prompted to buy underwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 88: Next most popular features prompted to buy underwear, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 89: Repertoire of features prompted to buy underwear, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 90: Target groups, by demographics, December 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 91: Brands of underwear bought, by target groups, December 2009

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Agent Provocateur Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Ann Summers Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Arcadia Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Associated British Foods Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Berlei
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Bhs Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • British Market Research Bureau (BMRB)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Calvin Klein, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Co-operative Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Dolce & Gabbana
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Dorothy Perkins old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Elle MacPherson Intimates
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Google UK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Gossard
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Government Actuary's Department (GAD)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Jean Paul Gaultier SA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • John Lewis Plc (department store)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Knickerbox (UK) Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • La Senza Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Matalan Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Next Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Peacocks
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Pretty Polly Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Rigby & Peller Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Saatchi & Saatchi (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Sara Lee (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Selfridges Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Swarovski
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • The TJX Companies
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Topman old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Triumph International Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Uniqlo UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Wallis old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Wm Morrison Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • YouTube, Inc.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Underwear - UK - March 2010

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  US $2,583.33 (Excl.Tax)