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US Black Haircare market report

"The Black haircare market is in transition, as soft sales growth is wedged between two, very different consumer trends. One, a booming natural and regimen-focused product segment vs the precipitous sales free-fall of relaxers, which were formerly anchor products for several heritage brands. Black consumers prefer, and expect, haircare products made for their texture, haircare issues, and styling choices. As a result, Black-targeted and mainstream haircare companies are vying for consideration, and purchase among Black consumers with tailored products with the promise of expected efficacy."

- Toya Mitchell, Multicultural Analyst

This report will look at the following areas:

  • Natural hair is here to stay
  • Half of Black women use 3-4 products as part of their haircare regimen
  • Most Blacks perform basic maintenance to save time and money
  • Black women are abandoning relaxers, not necessarily straight hairstyles

 

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
      • Executive Summary

          • Figure 1: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
        • The issues
          • Natural hair is here to stay
            • Figure 2: Hairstyles worn among Blacks during the last 12 months, May 2017
          • Half of Black women use 3-4 products as part of their haircare regimen
            • Figure 3: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
          • Most Blacks perform basic maintenance to save time and money
            • Figure 4: Haircare regimen, May 2017
          • Black women are abandoning relaxers, not necessarily straight hairstyles
            • Figure 5: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months and haircare regimen, by Black females, May 2017
          • The opportunities
            • Most Blacks take their haircare cues from trusted personal sources, but brand messaging spreads awareness
              • Figure 6: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
            • Give Blacks tips from professionals on how to achieve optimal results at home
              • Ensure brand and product messaging includes all-natural hair consumers
                • What it means
                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                  • Black haircare sales are flat due to opposing categories
                    • Mainstream brands are making a targeted play for Black consumers
                      • Online haircare sales growing in importance
                        • Black Women embrace natural hair, but perhaps at a social cost
                        • Market Size and Forecast

                          • Black haircare will grow at a moderate pace
                            • Figure 7: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
                            • Figure 8: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices 2012-22
                        • Market Breakdown

                          • Styling products rule, but regimen-focused products are growing
                            • Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
                            • Figure 10: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
                            • Figure 11: P&G Pantene Gold shampoo, conditioner and styling magazine advertisement, April 2017
                          • Shampoo sales growth forecast buoyed by regimen adoption
                            • Figure 12: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
                          • Conditioner sales forecast closely mirror shampoo
                            • Figure 13: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
                          • Styling products anchor Black haircare sales
                            • Figure 14: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
                          • Relaxers are slowing becoming a niche product line
                            • Figure 15: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
                          • Flat hair color sales reflect desire for expression vs abandoning chemicals
                            • Figure 16: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
                        • Market Perspective

                          • Black women embrace natural textures, but may still face bias due to their hairstyle choice
                            • Black females battle protective and natural hair bans
                            • Market Factors

                              • E-commerce an important channel for prestige and emerging brands
                                • Figure 17: Store type where haircare products were purchased, July 2016-June 2017
                              • General market companies create lines specifically for Black consumers
                                • Ouidad
                                  • Figure 18: Ouidad Kinky Curls Curl Immersion line, 2016
                                • Made Beautiful
                                  • Figure 19: True by Made Beautiful, 2017
                                • P&G Pantene Gold Series
                                  • Figure 20: Pantene Pro-V Gold products, April 2017
                                  • Figure 21: Pantene Gold magazine advertisement, May 2017
                                  • Figure 22: Pantene anthem television commercial, 2017
                                  • Figure 23: Pantene promotional video featuring Gold product line scientists, 2016
                              • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                • First-recognized $100+ million Black brand
                                  • Regimen-focused product lines dominate sales
                                    • The shift from targeted to inclusive messaging elicits alarm among core consumers
                                      • Innovation within the market centered on individual solutions
                                      • Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products

                                        • Double-digit growth among Black brands focused on natural regimen
                                          • Figure 24: MULO sales of Black-targeted haircare product brands, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                      • Breakdown of Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products

                                        • Black-targeted haircare product growth within natural regimen lines
                                          • Figure 25: MULO sales and percentage change of Black-targeted haircare products, by segment, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                        • SheaMoisture captured half of the shampoo category
                                          • Figure 26: MULO sales of Black-targeted shampoo, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                        • Sales growth of conditioners may signal its double duty among Black consumers
                                          • Figure 27: MULO sales of Black-targeted conditioners, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                        • Soft growth in styling may be attributed to new products cannibalizing mature products
                                          • Figure 28: MULO sales of Black-targeted styling products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                        • Relaxer sales continue to fall; children’s texturizers are the sole bright spot
                                          • Figure 29: MULO sales of Black hair relaxer products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                        • SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely hair color shifts focus to naturals
                                          • Figure 30: MULO sales of Black-targeted hair color products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
                                          • Figure 31: SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely Color Gloss magazine advertisement, march 2017
                                          • Figure 32: Hoyu Bigen magazine advertisement, March 2017
                                      • What’s Working?

                                        • Mainstream retailers stock variety of natural hair product lines
                                          • Figure 33: Sally Beauty Supply/Carol’s Daughter magazine advertisement, March 2017
                                        • Regimen-focused product lines continue to grow
                                          • Figure 34: MULO sales estimates for Black-targeted shampoo, conditioner and styling products among leading brands, 2016-17
                                          • Figure 35: Series of SheaMoisture regimen-focused product advertising, September, 2016
                                        • Milder relaxer products made for kids most likely used by adults
                                          • Figure 36: MULO Strength of Nature relaxer sales, 2016-17
                                      • What’s Struggling?

                                        • Black-targeted brands that shift marketing efforts to be inclusive risk losing their base
                                          • SheaMoisture
                                            • Carol’s Daughter
                                              • Figure 37: Carol’s Daughter “Made with Love” television commercial, April 2017
                                            • Relaxer sales continue to drop, not sure where they will hit bottom
                                              • Figure 38: MULO at-home relaxer sales, 2012-17 (est)
                                          • What’s Next?

                                            • Tailored hair regimen solutions by consumer activity
                                              • Figure 39: FORM Beauty brand introduction video, 2017
                                            • Haircare companies help consumers mix their own product formulas
                                              • Products for naturals who wear straight hairstyles
                                                • Figure 40: Heat protectant creams, 2016-17
                                              • Regimen products and education to help naturals wear a “wash and go”
                                                • Figure 41: L’Oréal SoftSheen-Carson, Dark and Lovely Au Naturale magazine ad, April 2017
                                              • Black haircare meets the sharing economy
                                                • Figure 42: BeautyLynk Promotional video, 2016
                                            • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                              • Natural hair is the norm
                                                • Black women have abandoned relaxers, but not necessarily straight hairstyles
                                                  • “Wash day” is time consuming, but everyday styling is quick and simple
                                                    • Most Blacks perform basic hair maintenance, but styling is periodic
                                                      • Blacks look to people they trust for hair inspiration, including themselves
                                                        • Advertising and editorial geared toward Black consumers builds brand/product awareness and drives consideration
                                                        • Black Consumer Haircare Segments: Overview

                                                            • Mintel defined Black haircare consumer groups by attitude, behavior and perceptions
                                                                • Figure 43: Overview of the four female Black haircare segments, May 2017
                                                                • Figure 44: Black female haircare segments, 2015-17
                                                                • Figure 45: Demographic profile of female segments, May 2017
                                                                • Figure 46: Overview of the three male Black haircare segments, May 2017
                                                                • Figure 47: Black male haircare segments, 2015-17
                                                                • Figure 48: Demographic profile of male segments, May 2017
                                                            • Black Hair Texture Categorization

                                                                • Most Blacks categorize hair type based on natural look, but a small segment categorize based on final look
                                                                  • Figure 49: Natural hair categories
                                                                  • Figure 50: Blacks’ natural hair texture, May 2017
                                                                • Black women and men report having the same textures with some variation
                                                                  • Figure 51: Blacks’ natural hair texture, by gender, May 2017
                                                              • Hairstyles Worn in the Last 12 Months

                                                                  • Natural hairstyles among Blacks now the norm
                                                                    • Figure 52: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months, May 2017
                                                                  • Hairstyle perception among some “straight” textured Blacks contradicts practice
                                                                    • Figure 53: Natural hair texture, by hairstyle, May 2017
                                                                  • Black women wear natural, but manipulated hair styles, Black men opt for low maintenance
                                                                    • Figure 54: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by gender, May 2017
                                                                  • Over a third of Black women wear their hair chemically relaxed, others wear protective hairstyles
                                                                    • Figure 55: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Not natural only, by gender, May 2017
                                                                  • College-degreed Blacks prefer natural hairstyles, signals acceptance in the workplace
                                                                    • Figure 56: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by educational attainment, May 2017
                                                                  • Young Black women prefer natural and protective hairstyles
                                                                    • Figure 57: Hairstyles worn by Black women in the last 12 months, by age, May 2017
                                                                  • Most women across segments wear natural hairstyles, but vary on type
                                                                    • Figure 58: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months - nets, by haircare segments, May 2017
                                                                • Time Spent and Product Usage on Haircare Maintenance

                                                                    • Hair maintenance time spent on “wash day” can be up to almost three times longer than an average day
                                                                        • Figure 59: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, May 2017
                                                                      • Blacks who wear protective styles spend the most time maintaining their hair
                                                                          • Figure 60: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by selected hairstyles, May 2017
                                                                        • Black women drive high “wash day” maintenance time spent, but reduce steps on an average day
                                                                          • Figure 61: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by gender, May 2017
                                                                        • Young Blacks spend more time on their hair, mostly likely creating their natural hair look
                                                                          • Figure 62: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by age, May 2017
                                                                        • Most Blacks use only 1-2 haircare products at home, but half of Black women use 3-4
                                                                            • Figure 63: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
                                                                        • Haircare Regimen

                                                                            • Most Blacks cover basic maintenance at home, but are split on more complicated tasks
                                                                                • Figure 64: Haircare regimen, May 2017
                                                                              • Blacks with protective styles complete the most steps at home
                                                                                • Figure 65: Haircare regimen, by hairstyle, May 2017
                                                                              • Most Blacks shampoo and condition their hair once a week; treatment application less frequently
                                                                                • Figure 66: Haircare regimen – Basic maintenance, by frequency, May 2017
                                                                              • Styling hair at home is sporadic and may be done only when necessary
                                                                                • Figure 67: Haircare regimen – Styling, by frequency, May 2017
                                                                              • Most Blacks have abandoned chemical treatments at home and the salon
                                                                                  • Figure 68: Haircare regimen – Chemical treatments and salon services, by frequency, May 2017
                                                                              • Influences on Hair Maintenance and Styling

                                                                                  • Blacks take their hair maintenance and styling cues from their personal connections and advertising
                                                                                      • Figure 69: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
                                                                                    • Black women more likely to seek guidance in advertising, Black men look to people they admire
                                                                                      • Figure 70: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by gender, May 2017
                                                                                    • Blacks with potentially damaging hairstyles more likely to be influenced by trusted sources
                                                                                      • Figure 71: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by hairstyle, May 2017
                                                                                    • Trendy Naturalistas influenced by external sources, others by inner circle or themselves
                                                                                      • Figure 72: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by female haircare segments, May 2017
                                                                                  • Haircare Maintenance and Product Attitudes

                                                                                      • Blacks prefer haircare products made just for them because they perform as expected
                                                                                        • Figure 73: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, May 2017
                                                                                      • “Naturals” prefer brands that cater to their styling needs and overall health
                                                                                        • Figure 74: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by hairstyle, May 2017
                                                                                      • Black women demonstrate deeper engagement with their hair
                                                                                        • Figure 75: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by gender, May 2017
                                                                                      • Younger Blacks like to experiment with new products and styles while older Blacks stick to what is familiar
                                                                                        • Figure 76: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by age, May 2017
                                                                                      • Experimentation and reasons for haircare product purchases vary across segments
                                                                                        • Figure 77: Haircare maintenance and product attitudes, by female haircare segments, May 2017
                                                                                    • Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                                                      • Data sources
                                                                                        • Sales data
                                                                                          • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                            • Consumer survey data
                                                                                              • Consumer qualitative research
                                                                                                • Abbreviations and terms
                                                                                                  • Abbreviations
                                                                                                    • Terms
                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Market

                                                                                                        • Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
                                                                                                        • Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 88: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 89: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
                                                                                                        • Figure 90: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22

                                                                                                    Companies Covered

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