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Women's Facial Skincare - UK - May 2015

The women’s facial skincare market has seen sales stall in 2014, with the mass market slipping into decline. Changing consumer behaviours, including switching to discount retailers and online channels, are enabling women to save money on their purchases. Meanwhile the prestige market is also suffering as women switch to smart foundations to treat skin issues, and trade down to cheaper cleansers after investing in facial skincare devices.

This report looks at the following areas:

  • The future of devices
  • Harnessing the link between nutrition and skin
  • Keeping sales in skincare
  • Expanding the anti-ageing market

Consumer research for this report investigates how women describe their facial skincare, as well as their understanding of skincare ingredients and what they feel has the biggest impact on the appearance of skin.

Within this report, Mintel defines ‘women’s facial skincare’ as all skincare products that are not specifically targeted at men. Accordingly, all market and launch information includes data for unisex facial skincare.

While women’s investment into their facial skincare routine remains the same, behavioural changes such as discounted purchases and trading down to cheaper alternatives have resulted in sales of facial skincare products slipping.

The trend towards facial cleansing devices has led to women trading down to cheaper cleansing products, with investing in a device thought to improve the performance of any cleanser. Indeed the mass-market facial skincare segment has seen growth in the cleansing segment as women switch to cheaper brands and facial soap formats.

New foundation launches from innovative prestige brands saw the claims made by such products expanding in 2014, with a focus on skincare and anti-ageing. Although leading to a surge in investment in foundation, this is likely to be drawing some consumers away from the skincare category.

Facial skincare brands are responding to new regulations surrounding parabens and preservatives; paraben- and sulphate-free were amongst the top ten fastest growing claims in the market between 2013 and 2014. However consumers display a lack of awareness and understanding of these ingredients, suggesting brands need to expand their communications further in this area as an on-pack claim may not be enough to win favour amongst consumers.

With sales slipping into decline in the facial skincare market, further NPD is needed to reignite consumer interest and return the market to growth. Within the face/neck segment, which accounted for 80% of market NPD in 2014, just over a quarter of launches for the year were completely new.

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Products covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

        • RSV slips as sales are cannibalised
          • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of facial skincare products, 2009-19
        • Launch trends focus on evolving claims, but more is needed
          • Figure 2: New product launches in the women’s facial skincare market, by launch type, January 2012-March 2015
        • A third of women have uneven skin tone
          • Figure 3: How women describe their skin condition, March 2015
        • Strong interest in ‘inside-out’ beauty
          • Figure 4: Most important factors in determining the appearance of skin, March 2015
        • 42% of women have not heard of parabens
          • Figure 5: Awareness and knowledge of facial skincare ingredients, March 2015
      • Issues and Insights

        • The future of devices
          • The facts
            • The implications
              • Harnessing the link between nutrition and skin
                • The facts
                  • The implications
                    • Keeping sales in skincare
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Expanding the anti-ageing market
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                              • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                • RSV slips as sales are cannibalised
                                  • Flexi-working presents skincare opportunity
                                    • The healthy lifestyle effect
                                      • Discount retailers transform the market
                                      • Market Size and Forecast

                                        • Sales start to slip into decline
                                          • Figure 6: UK retail value sales of women’s facial skincare products, 2009-19
                                        • However growth is expected to return
                                          • Figure 7: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of facial skincare products, 2009-19
                                      • Segment Performance

                                        • Mass market slips into decline
                                          • Figure 8: UK retail value sales of women’s facial skincare products, by segment, 2013-14
                                        • Moisturisers tumble while lip care triumphs
                                          • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of women’s mass market facial skincare products, by category, 2013-14
                                      • Market Drivers

                                        • Ageing population threatens segment sales
                                          • Figure 10: Trends in the age structure of the female population, 2009-19
                                        • Renewed focus on UV impact on skin
                                          • Figure 11: Rates of malignant melanoma diagnoses per 100,000 population, UK, by age at diagnosis, 2009-11
                                        • Flexi-working presents skincare opportunity
                                          • Figure 12: Employment and unemployment of women, 2009-19
                                        • Growing cosmetic surgery market
                                          • Figure 13: Experience of cosmetic surgery and interest in future procedures, September 2014
                                        • The healthy lifestyle effect
                                          • Figure 14: Eat Pretty by Jolene Hart, 2014
                                        • Cosmetics and skincare boundaries continue to blur
                                        • Channels to Market

                                          • Discounters and online retailers change the shape of the market
                                            • Figure 15: UK retail value sales of facial skincare products, by outlet type, 2013-14
                                          • Prestige sales benefit online and department stores
                                          • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                            • Strong heritage and new appeal benefits facial skincare brands
                                              • Older women see skincare as a luxury
                                                • Serum the new star of advertising
                                                  • NPD indexing below high of 2012
                                                    • Paraben- and sulphate-free amongst top growing claims
                                                      • Natural oils trend lifts botanical/herbal claim
                                                        • A mixed brand performance in the mass market
                                                          • Advertising investment reflects on sales performance
                                                          • Brand Research

                                                            • Key brand metrics
                                                              • Figure 16: Key metrics for selected brands, March 2015
                                                            • Brand map
                                                              • Figure 17: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, March 2015
                                                            • Brand attitudes: Vichy and Estée Lauder noted for quality
                                                              • Figure 18: Attitudes, by brand, March 2015
                                                            • Vichy struggles to match up to Estée Lauder, despite similar associations
                                                              • Figure 19: User profile of Vichy, March 2015
                                                            • Estée Lauder is most likely to be perceived in glamour terms
                                                              • Figure 20: Brand personality – micro image, March 2015
                                                            • Estée Lauder is seen as glamorous, but risks being seen as old-fashioned
                                                              • Figure 21: User profile of Estée Lauder, March 2015
                                                            • Brand personality: NIVEA’s value image promotes accessible associations
                                                              • Figure 22: Brand personality – Macro image, March 2015
                                                            • NIVEA has all-round strong brand image
                                                              • Figure 23: User profile of NIVEA, March 2015
                                                            • Soap & Glory benefits from youthful, quirky brand associations
                                                              • Figure 24: User profile of Soap & Glory, March 2015
                                                            • REN lacks strong awareness and usage but noted for expertise and cutting-edge developments
                                                              • Figure 25: Demographic breakdown of consumers aware of REN, March 2015
                                                            • Eau Thermale Avène’s product claims influence 16-44s in particular
                                                              • Figure 26: Demographic breakdown of consumers aware of Eau Thermale Avène, March 2015
                                                            • Caudalie could leverage an innovative brand image
                                                              • Figure 27: Demographic breakdown of consumers aware of Caudalie, March 2015
                                                          • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                            • Increased advertising investment in the market
                                                              • Figure 28: Main monitored advertising spend on women’s facial skincare products, by advertiser, 2012-14
                                                            • Serum the new star of advertising
                                                              • Figure 29: Main monitored advertising spend on women’s facial skincare products, by product type, 2013-14
                                                            • Shifting focus on medias
                                                              • Figure 30: Main monitored advertising spend on women’s facial skincare products, by media type, 2012-14
                                                          • Launch Activity and Innovation

                                                            • NPD indexing below high of 2012
                                                              • Figure 31: New product launches in the women’s facial skincare market, by launch type, January 2012-March 2015
                                                              • Figure 32: Examples of new women’s facial skincare product launches, 2015
                                                            • Face and neck products dominate launches
                                                              • Figure 33: Examples of women’s facial skincare water product launches, 2014
                                                              • Figure 34: New product launches in the women’s facial skincare market, by sub category, January 2012-March 2015
                                                            • Paraben- and sulphate-free amongst top growing claims
                                                              • Figure 35: Examples of paraben-free women’s facial skincare launches, 2014
                                                              • Figure 36: Fastest growing product positioning claims in the women’s facial skincare market, 2013-14
                                                            • Natural oils trend lifts botanical/herbal claim
                                                              • Figure 37: Examples of women’s facial skincare products featuring botanical oils, 2014
                                                            • Appealing to an ageing population
                                                              • Figure 38: Examples of women’s facial skincare products featuring anti-ageing claims, 2014-15
                                                            • L’Oréal continues to lead NPD
                                                              • Figure 39: New product development in women’s facial skincare, by top five ultimate companies and other, 2014
                                                              • Figure 40: Product launches from L’Oréal brands, 2014
                                                          • Market Share

                                                            • A mixed brand performance in the mass market
                                                              • Figure 41: Brand shares in UK sales of women’s mass market facial skincare, March 2014 – March 2015
                                                            • Advertising investment reflects on sales performance
                                                              • Vaseline targets impulse purchases with limited editions
                                                                • Figure 42: Examples of Vaseline limited edition tins launched in 2014
                                                            • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                              • A third of women have uneven skin tone
                                                                • Wrinkles are the most common skin concern
                                                                  • Facial soaps maintain their resurgence in popularity
                                                                    • Anti-ageing usage remains static
                                                                      • Strong interest in ‘inside-out’ beauty
                                                                        • Cleansing devices for the older woman
                                                                          • Consumers concerned over stressing skin
                                                                            • Expanding occasions of use
                                                                              • 42% of women have not heard of parabens
                                                                                • Anti-ageing ingredient knowledge can be improved
                                                                                • Skin Condition and Concerns

                                                                                  • A third of women have uneven skin tone
                                                                                    • Figure 43: How women describe their skin condition, March 2015
                                                                                  • Wrinkles are the most common skin concern
                                                                                    • Figure 44: Skin concerns of women, March 2015
                                                                                  • Primer growth increases awareness of pores
                                                                                  • Product Usage

                                                                                    • Facial soaps maintain their resurgence in popularity
                                                                                      • Figure 45: Examples of new women’s facial soap products, 2014
                                                                                    • Anti-ageing usage remains static
                                                                                      • Figure 46: Women’s facial skincare product usage, 2013-15
                                                                                    • Oils and devices need to increase user base
                                                                                      • Product repertoires shrink as women age
                                                                                        • Figure 47: Repertoire of women’s facial skincare, March 2015
                                                                                    • Factors Influencing Appearance of Skin

                                                                                      • Strong interest in ‘inside-out’ beauty
                                                                                        • Figure 48: Most important factors in determining the appearance of skin, March 2015
                                                                                      • Facial treatments need to highlight importance
                                                                                        • Cleansing devices for the older woman
                                                                                        • Skincare Routines

                                                                                          • Consumers concerned over stressing skin
                                                                                            • Figure 49: Attitudes towards facial skincare products, March 2015
                                                                                          • Expanding occasions of use
                                                                                            • The routine and brand loyalty
                                                                                            • Skincare Ingredients

                                                                                              • 42% of women have not heard of parabens
                                                                                                • Figure 50: Awareness and knowledge of facial skincare ingredients, March 2015
                                                                                              • Anti-ageing ingredient knowledge can be improved
                                                                                                • Figure 51: Awareness and knowledge of facial skincare ingredients, March 2015
                                                                                            • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                              • Data sources
                                                                                                • Abbreviations
                                                                                                  • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                                  • Appendix – Key Players

                                                                                                      • Figure 52: New product launches in the women’s facial skincare market, by sub category and launch type, 2014
                                                                                                      • Figure 53: Top ten product positioning claims in the women’s facial skincare market, ranked by 2014, January 2012-March 2015

                                                                                                  Women's Facial Skincare - UK - May 2015

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