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Women's Fragrances - UK - August 2010

The UK women’s fragrance market is rapidly changing. Valued at an estimated £739 million in 2010, with modest growth of 2.4% year on year, the market has been reasonably well preserved during the economic recession. However, financial pressures have instigated a shift in consumer behaviour that fragrance brands need to address.

What we have found out:

  • The women's fragrances market is valued at £739m in 2010, with modest annual growth of a little over 2%. The market has been reasonably well preserved during the economic recession, although financial pressures have led to some changes in consumer behaviour and there has been a small decrease in the consumer base.
  • There were 323 women's fragrance launches in in 2009 (GNPD) but newness is no longer enough to give fragrances any long lasting differentiation. Consumers have revisited classic fragrances as the shift in buying behaviour moves towards quality, authenticity or value.
  • Solid fragrances offer a growing opportunity as they give consumers new ways to use perfume. They are mess-free and particularly ideal for keeping in a handbag for use on the move. They can take various forms, eg rings, compacts or pendants.
  • While organic and natural formulations are prevalent in skincare, toiletries and haircare, fragrance manufacturers have been reluctant to use organic ingredients. There have been some introductions, nevertheless, including Jo Wood Organics, Liz Earle, The Organic Pharmacy and L'Artisan Parfumeur.
  • Women in their thirties and forties tend to use fragrance only a couple of times per week. Perhaps they could be persuaded to use their favourite brands more often if convenient portable formats were more widely available. This would also help the four in ten under-25s who often forget to apply their fragrance.
  • Women are more likely to receive fragrance as a gift than to buy it for themselves. Christmas and birthdays account for the vast majority of purchase occasions; 73% have been given prefume for Christmas and 63% for their birthday. Full-time working women are most likely to treat themselves to perfume.

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Table of contents

  1. Issues in the Market

      • Key themes
        • Definition
          • Abbreviations
          • Future Opportunities

              • Helping the young ones forge an identity
                • What now?
                  • Turning over a new leaf
                    • Who am I?
                    • Market in Brief

                      • Recession largely spares women’s fragrance
                        • An emphasis on perceived value
                          • Innovation revives perfumery
                            • Brand leaders
                              • Technology will shape the future of fragrance
                              • Internal Market Environment

                                • Key points
                                  • Attitudes of fragrance wearers
                                    • Figure 1: Trends in attitudes towards personal appearance, by female users of perfume and eau de toilette, 2005-09
                                  • A fragrant boost in times of recession
                                    • The Web 2.0 consumer
                                      • Perceived value is key
                                        • Celebrities still secure sales
                                          • Women’s media
                                            • Figure 2: UK retail sales of women’s magazines, by value and volume, 2005-10
                                          • The Scenternet
                                          • Broader Market Environment

                                            • Key points
                                              • Demographic trends
                                                • Figure 3: Trends in the age structure of the UK female population, 2005-15
                                              • Meet the targets of the future
                                                • Older opportunity knocks
                                                  • The impact of employment
                                                    • Figure 4: Employment and unemployment among women, 2005-15
                                                  • A backdrop of volatility
                                                  • Competitive Context

                                                    • Key points
                                                      • Market value in context
                                                        • Figure 5: UK retail value sales of selected cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, 2005-09
                                                      • Mixing masculine and feminine elements
                                                        • “Unisex” label is dated
                                                          • Colour cosmetics is most dynamic in beauty
                                                            • Figure 6: Women’s fragrances as % of all new product launches, 2005-10
                                                          • Scent retailing
                                                            • Rekindling dwindling interest
                                                            • Strengths and Weaknesses

                                                              • Strengths
                                                                • Weaknesses
                                                                • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • Fragrance innovation
                                                                      • Figure 7: New launch activity in women’s fragrances as % of total innovation in fragrances, 2005-10 
                                                                    • Newness is not enough
                                                                      • Headspace research
                                                                        • Solid scents
                                                                          • Innovation by company
                                                                            • Figure 8: New launch activity within women’s fragrances, % by company, top 10*, 2005-10
                                                                          • The perfumer is the celebrity
                                                                            • Creative collections
                                                                              • Organic movement
                                                                                • Packaging design
                                                                                • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                      • Figure 9: UK retail value sales of women’s fragrances, at current and constant prices, 2005-15
                                                                                    • A subdued market
                                                                                      • Future growth
                                                                                      • Segment Performance

                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                          • Figure 10: UK retail value sales of women’s fragrances, mass-market vs. premium, 2005-10
                                                                                        • Premium outpaces mass
                                                                                          • Coffret curtailment
                                                                                            • Scents of a celebrity slowdown?
                                                                                              • The rise of niche luxury
                                                                                              • Market Share

                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                  • Manufacturer shares
                                                                                                    • Figure 11: Manufacturers/distributors’ shares in women’s fragrances, 2008-10
                                                                                                  • YSL catapults L’Oréal into the lead
                                                                                                  • Companies and Products

                                                                                                    • Chanel
                                                                                                      • Coty
                                                                                                          • Figure 12: Coty women’s fragrances – New products, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                        • Elizabeth Arden
                                                                                                          • Estée Lauder Companies
                                                                                                              • Figure 13: Estée Lauder women’s fragrances – New products, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                            • Kenneth Green Associates
                                                                                                                • Figure 14: KGA women’s fragrances – Latest distribution activity, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                              • L’Oréal
                                                                                                                  • Figure 15: L’Oréal women’s fragrances – New products, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                                • LVMH
                                                                                                                    • Figure 16: LVMH women’s fragrances – New products, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                                  • Procter & Gamble
                                                                                                                      • Figure 17: P&G women’s fragrances – New products, May 2009-April 2010
                                                                                                                  • Brand Elements

                                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                                      • Brand map
                                                                                                                          • Figure 18: Attitudes towards and usage of women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                        • Brand qualities of women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                          • Chanel for glamour and sophistication
                                                                                                                            • Figure 19: Personalities of various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                          • Experience of women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                            • No 5 most popular, but occasional use is the norm
                                                                                                                              • Figure 20: Consumer usage of various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                            • Brand consideration for women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                              • Fashion brands most considered, Britney Spears not for everyone
                                                                                                                                • Figure 21: Consideration of various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                              • Brand satisfaction for women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                                • Designer labels most satisfactory
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 22: Satisfaction with various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                                • Brand commitment to women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                                  • More accessible brands have greater loyalty
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 23: Commitment to various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                                  • Brand intentions for women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                                    • ‘Classic’ fragrances have greater staying power
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 24: Future usage intentions for various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                                    • Brand recommendation for women’s fragrance brands
                                                                                                                                      • Chanel and Dior most recommended
                                                                                                                                        • Figure 25: Recommendation of various women’s fragrance brands, June 2010
                                                                                                                                      • Dior J’adore
                                                                                                                                        • What the consumer thinks
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 26: Attitudes towards the Dior J’adore brand, June 2010
                                                                                                                                        • Marc Jacobs Lola
                                                                                                                                          • What the consumer thinks
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 27: Attitudes towards the Marc Jacobs Lola brand, June 2010
                                                                                                                                          • Britney Spears Fantasy
                                                                                                                                            • What the consumer thinks
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 28: Attitudes towards the Britney Spears Fantasy brand, June 2010
                                                                                                                                            • Thierry Mugler Angel
                                                                                                                                              • What the consumer thinks
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 29: Attitudes towards the Thierry Mugler Angel brand, June 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Chanel No 5
                                                                                                                                                • What the consumer thinks
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 30: Attitudes towards the Chanel No 5 brand, June 2010
                                                                                                                                              • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                                  • Topline spend
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 31: Above the line advertising expenditure on fragrances, 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 32: Adspend on women’s fragrances, by market positioning, 2005-10
                                                                                                                                                  • Recession hits adspend hard
                                                                                                                                                    • Making scents of sampling
                                                                                                                                                      • Advertising by company and brand
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 33: Main monitored advertising expenditure on women’s fragrances, by companies spending £5m or more during 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                      • Procter & Gamble leads the big spenders
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 34: Main monitored expenditure on women’s fragrances, by procter & Gamble brands, 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 35: Main monitored expenditure on women’s fragrances, by Coty Prestige UK brands, 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 36: Main monitored expenditure on women’s fragrances, by Parfums Christian Dior brands, 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 37: Main monitored expenditure on women’s fragrances, by selected other brands, 2006-10
                                                                                                                                                      • Promotions for the digital age
                                                                                                                                                      • Channels to Market

                                                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 38: UK retail sales of women’s fragrances, by outlet type, 2008-10
                                                                                                                                                          • Boots
                                                                                                                                                            • The Perfume Shop
                                                                                                                                                              • Tesco makes scents of grocery offer
                                                                                                                                                                • Direct sales stay steady
                                                                                                                                                                  • Online offers
                                                                                                                                                                    • When Passion is not enough
                                                                                                                                                                      • ... but guess who’s Next
                                                                                                                                                                        • Department stores lack direction
                                                                                                                                                                        • Usage and Frequency

                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                            • Trends of usage
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 39: Trends in penetration and frequency of using perfume and eau de toilette, 2005-09
                                                                                                                                                                            • Young women remain key targets
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 40: Most valuable consumers for volume sales of fragrances*, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                            • Experimental 25-34-year-olds
                                                                                                                                                                              • Recession hits usage
                                                                                                                                                                                • Wearing occasions
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 41: When fragrance is worn, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                • No change for older women
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 42: Wear different fragrances and never leave home without fragrance, by age, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                • Every scent tells a story
                                                                                                                                                                                • Fragrance Ownership

                                                                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 43: Number of bottles of fragrance owned amongst women, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Women on the web
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Enthusiastic Scots
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Celebrity scents still find their fans
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Frequency with which fragrances are used
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 44: Frequency of using fragrances owned amongst women, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 45: Frequency of use of fragrances owned amongst women, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Purchasing Habits

                                                                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Gifts make scents to men
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 46: Purchasing of women’s fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Scents of occasion
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 47: Key purchasing occasions for women’s fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Place of purchase
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 48: Shops used to buy fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Buy before you fly
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Online for the future
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 49: Buying fragrance from department stores, online and specialist shops, by age, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Attitudes Towards Fragrances

                                                                                                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 50: Attitudes towards fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                • The loyal family
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Variety is the spice of life
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Making scents of money
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • The Consumer – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 51: Consumer groups for fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Signature Scenters (36% of women)
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Natural Notes (31%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Cautious Consumers (17%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Fragrance Fanatics (17%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 52: Attitudes to personal appearance by users of perfume and eau de toilette, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 53: Attitudes to personal appearance by use of perfume and eau de toilette, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Who’s Innovating?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 54: New launch activity in women’s fragrances wtihin the context of innovation in the women’s grooming sector, 2005-10
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Usage and Frequency

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 55: Penetration and frequency of using perfume and eau de toilette, by demographics, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Wearing occasions
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 56: Most popular occasions on which to wear fragrances, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 57: Next most popular occasions on which to wear fragrances, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Fragrance Ownership

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 58: Number of bottles of fragrance owned amongst women, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Purchasing Habits

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 59: Number of purchasing occasions for women’s fragrances, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 60: Key purchase occasions, by whether fragrance has been bought or received, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 61: Purchasing of women’s fragrances, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Place of purchase
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 62: Shops used to buy fragrances, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Attitudes Towards Fragrances

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 63: Attitudes towards fragrances, by demographics, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Appendix – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 64: Attitudes towards fragrances, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 65: Occasions on which to wear fragrances, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 66: Number of bottles of fragrance owned amongst women, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 67: Key purchasing occasions for women’s fragrances, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 68: Frequency of use of fragrances owned amongst women, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 69: Shops used to buy fragrance, by target groups, March 2010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 70: Target groups, by demographics, March 2010

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Adidas
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Aldi Stores Ltd (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Alliance Boots
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Anna Sui
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Asda Group Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Aveda
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Avon Cosmetics Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Balenciaga
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Beaute Prestige International SA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • British Retail Consortium
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • British Sky Broadcasting Group plc (BSkyB)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Burberry Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Cacharel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Calvin Klein, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Chanel Ltd (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Christian Dior
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Christian Lacroix
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Clarins UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Clinique Laboratories Ltd (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Co-operative Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Coty UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Debenhams Total (GTV)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Diesel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Dolce & Gabbana
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Donna Karan Company Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Donna Karan International Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • E Moss Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Elizabeth Arden, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Escada
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (The)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Fragrance Foundation, The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Frederic Fekkai
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Freeview
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Giorgio Armani S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Givenchy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Government Actuary's Department (GAD)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Grazia
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Gucci Group N.V.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Guerlain
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Guess
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Harrods Group Total
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Harvey Nichols UK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Hugo Boss
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Issey Miyake London Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • J. Sainsbury
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Jean Paul Gaultier SA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • John Lewis Partnership
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Juicy Couture, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Kantar Media
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Kenneth Green Associates
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Kenzo
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Kering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • L'Oréal (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Lacoste
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Lancôme
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Lidl (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Liz Claiborne Inc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Liz Earle
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Lloyds Retail Chemists Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Loewe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Marks & Spencer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Miss Sixty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Missoni S.p.A
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • mmO2 plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Narciso Rodriguez
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Netto Foodstores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Orange plc (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Oriflame Cosmetics (UK & Ireland)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Origins Natural Resources, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Paul Smith Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Prada (I Pellettieri d'Italia S.p.A.)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Procter & Gamble UK & Ireland
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Puig Beauty & Fashion Group, S.L.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • PUMA AG Rudolf Dassler Sport
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Ralph Lauren Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Roberto Cavalli
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Selfridges Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Stella McCartney
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Superdrug Stores Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Tesco Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • The Body Shop - Retail Sales
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • The Fragrance Shop
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • The New York Times Company
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • The Perfume Shop Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Tommy Hilfiger Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Twitter, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Valentino
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Van Cleef & Arpels
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Vera Wang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Victoria and Albert Museum
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Viktor & Rolf
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Virgin Media Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Virgin Mobile
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Vodafone Group Plc (UK)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Waitrose
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Wm Morrison Supermarkets
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Yves Saint Laurent

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Women's Fragrances - UK - August 2010

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