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Youth Fashion - UK - December 2011

“There are signs that the fashion-oriented under-25s - who have underpinned the performance of the clothing and footwear market - are now beginning to rein in their discretionary spend. The challenge for retailers is to stimulate spending from this demographic by adding extra value to customers, in terms of the multichannel shopping experience. Any steps that retailers can take to enhance the in-store entertainment factor, for example by adding interactive elements or hosting special fashion-themed events, should also help to draw in young shoppers.”

– Emma Clifford, Fashion and Clothing Analyst

Some questions answered in this report include:

  • How is multichannel retailing impacting upon the youth fashion market?
  • Is the era of fast disposable fashion coming to an end?
  • What factors are affecting the spending potential of under-25s?
  • Will young consumers and students continue to spend?
  • How do teenagers differ in their spending habits to those in their early twenties?
  • With the growing popularity of mobile and online platforms, how can retailers maximise in-store clothing sales among under-25s?

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Definitions
        • Abbreviations
        • Executive Summary

            • The market
              • Figure 1: Best- and worst forecast expenditure on clothing and footwear by 16-24s, at current prices, 2006-16
              • Figure 2: Projected numbers of 15-24-year-olds in the UK, 2006-11 and 2011-16
            • Are youths of today becoming a ‘lost generation’?
              • The end of price deflation
                • Upward mobility will boost the youth fashion market
                  • The consumer
                    • Fashion is the top priority of teens
                      • Figure 3: Expenditure priorities, by age group, September 2011
                      • Figure 4: Frequency of clothes shopping, by gender and age group, September 2011
                    • Primark reigns supreme
                      • Figure 5: Retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                    • ABs drive mid-market fashion
                      • The growing influence of supermarket fashion
                        • Online shopping
                          • Most youths prefer to shop solo and swiftly
                            • Figure 6: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by gender, September 2011
                          • Teenage girls like to shop with friends
                            • Upmarket teen girls are frivolous shoppers
                              • Premium versus bargain fashion
                                • Individual style vs. following the fashion crowd
                                  • Young men align fashion style with sexiness
                                    • Young consumers shopping with more caution
                                      • Figure 7: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, September 2010 and September 2011
                                    • Cash-strapped youths are shrewd and price-savvy shoppers
                                      • Figure 8: Attitudes towards buying clothes, February 2011
                                    • Young female are trading down
                                      • What we think
                                      • Issues in the Market

                                          • How is multichannel retailing impacting upon the youth fashion market?
                                            • Is the era of fast disposable fashion coming to an end?
                                              • What factors are affecting the spending potential of under-25s?
                                                • Will young consumers and students continue to spend?
                                                  • How do teenagers differ in their spending habits to those in their early twenties?
                                                    • With the growing popularity of mobile and online platforms, how can retailers maximise in-store clothing sales among under-25s?
                                                    • Future Opportunities

                                                        • Trend: Experience is All
                                                          • Trend: FSTR HYPR
                                                          • Internal Market Environment

                                                            • Key points
                                                              • Education, education, education
                                                                • Figure 9: All students at publicly funded higher education institutions (HEIs), by mode and level of study, 2005/06-2009/10
                                                              • Soaring student loans
                                                                • Figure 10: Total amount of student loans lent to English domiciled students studying in the UK and EU students studying in England, 2005-11
                                                              • Under-25s are most image-conscious
                                                                • Figure 11: Statements on personal appearance, by age group and gender, 2011
                                                              • Young generation are avid followers of fashion
                                                                • Figure 12: Statements on personal appearance, by age group and gender, 2011
                                                              • Sports active
                                                                • Figure 13: Consumers who have bought sports clothing, in the last 12 months, by age group and gender, 2011
                                                              • Mobile goes mainstream among youths
                                                                • Figure 14: Use of the internet via mobile phone, by age group, 2009-11
                                                              • One in ten youths are clinically obese
                                                                • Figure 15: Levels of obesity based on BMI of 30 or more, by gender and socio-economic group, 2007-11
                                                            • Broader Market Environment

                                                              • Key points
                                                                • Declining under-25s will hit clothing market
                                                                  • Figure 16: Projected numbers of 15-24-year-olds in the UK, 2006-11 and 2011-16
                                                                • ABs to boost clothing sales
                                                                  • Figure 17: Forecast growth of the UK population, by socio-economic group, 2006-11 and 2011-16
                                                                • Youth unemployment breaks 1 million milestone
                                                                  • Figure 18: Unemployment rate for 16-24-year-olds, 2007-11
                                                                  • Figure 19: Number of unemployed 16-24s in the UK, January-September 2011
                                                                • Youths are delaying the move to independent living
                                                                  • Figure 20: UK households, by size, 2006-16
                                                                • Under-25s are most optimistic about their finances
                                                                  • Figure 21: Current financial situation, by age, June 2011
                                                                • Turbulence in the eurozone but UK GDP growth stronger than expected
                                                                  • Figure 22: Trends in GDP quarterly percentage change, Q1 2004-Q2 2011
                                                                • Consumer confidence remains in deep negative territory
                                                                  • Figure 23: Trends in consumer confidence, January 2008-September 2011
                                                                • The end of price deflation?
                                                                  • Figure 24: Inflation in clothing and footwear, January 2006-October 2011
                                                              • Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

                                                                • Strengths
                                                                  • Weaknesses
                                                                  • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                    • Key points
                                                                      • Going mobile
                                                                        • Revolutionising the dressing room experience
                                                                          • Shaking up the traditional in-store experience
                                                                            • The emergence of social shopping online
                                                                              • Multichannel advancements
                                                                                • Visually and experientially compelling retailing
                                                                                  • The rise of designer collaborations
                                                                                  • Competitive Context

                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                      • Figure 25: Spend on clothing and footwear by 15-24s and total spend on clothing and footwear, 2006-11
                                                                                  • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                      • The under-25 clothing and footwear market reaches £10.3 billion in 2011
                                                                                        • Figure 26: Under-25s’ estimated expenditure on clothing and footwear, 2006-16
                                                                                      • The future
                                                                                        • The under-25 fashion market is set to grow by 10%
                                                                                          • Figure 27: Best- and worst- case forecast spend on clothing and footwear by 16-24s, at current prices, 2006-16
                                                                                        • Factors used in the forecast
                                                                                        • Retail Competitor Analysis

                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                            • Figure 28: Turnover of selected players in the youth fashion market, 2008-11
                                                                                        • Companies and Products

                                                                                          • Topman/Topshop
                                                                                              • Figure 29: Key financials of Arcadia Group Brands Limited, 2009-10
                                                                                            • H&M
                                                                                                • Figure 30: Key financials for H&M (Hennes & Mauritz), 2010-11
                                                                                              • Zara
                                                                                                  • Figure 31: Key financials for Zara UK limited, 2010-11
                                                                                                • New Look
                                                                                                    • Figure 32: Key financials for New Look Group Plc, 2010-11
                                                                                                  • River Island
                                                                                                      • Figure 33: Key financials for River Island Clothing Co. Limited, 2009-10
                                                                                                    • Ted Baker
                                                                                                        • Figure 34: Key financials for Ted Baker Plc, 2010-11
                                                                                                      • Republic
                                                                                                          • Figure 35: Key financials for Republic (Retail) Ltd, 2010-11
                                                                                                        • Superdry
                                                                                                            • Figure 36: Supergroup Group, financial performance, 2010-11
                                                                                                          • Primark
                                                                                                              • Figure 37: Key financials for Primark Stores Limited, 2009-10
                                                                                                          • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                              • Resurgence in adspend in 2010
                                                                                                                • Figure 38: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion, 2007-11
                                                                                                              • Press advertising holds supremacy
                                                                                                                • Figure 39: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion, by media type, 2007-11
                                                                                                              • Next is the leader in adspend
                                                                                                                • Figure 40: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion advertising, by company, 2007-11
                                                                                                            • The Consumer – Types of Clothing Bought by 16-24s

                                                                                                              • Key points
                                                                                                                  • Figure 41: Types of clothing bought by 16-24s, 2011
                                                                                                                • Decline in purchases of outerwear
                                                                                                                  • Figure 42: Spend on outerwear by 16-24s, by type, 2007-11
                                                                                                                • Basics are the most commonly purchased items by men
                                                                                                                  • Figure 43: Spend on menswear, by type, 2007-11
                                                                                                                • Dress purchases soar
                                                                                                                  • Figure 44: Spend on womenswear, by type, 2007-11
                                                                                                              • The Consumer – What Do 15-24s Spend Their Money On?

                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                    • Figure 45: Expenditure ranking, by gender, September 2011
                                                                                                                    • Figure 46: Expenditure ranking, by age group, September 2011
                                                                                                                  • Teenage girls more likely to spend on clothing and shoes
                                                                                                                    • Figure 47: Consumers who spend the most on clothing and shoes, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                  • Accommodation costs become the biggest area of spend for 20-24s
                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: Consumers who spend most on rent/mortgage and bills, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                  • Food to eat at home is a major expense for E consumers with children
                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: Consumers who spend most on food to eat at home, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                  • Affluent ABs spend the most on cars and transport
                                                                                                                    • Male C1s splurge on going out
                                                                                                                      • Teenage boys are drawn to music, DVDs and games
                                                                                                                      • The Consumer – How Often Do 15-24s Buy Clothes?

                                                                                                                        • Key points
                                                                                                                            • Figure 50: Frequency of clothes shopping, by gender and age group, September 2011
                                                                                                                            • Figure 51: Frequency of clothes shopping, by gender, September 2011
                                                                                                                          • Most are seasonal shoppers
                                                                                                                            • Figure 52: Consumers who buy clothes once a month or every few months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                          • Young women shop most regularly
                                                                                                                            • Figure 53: Consumers who buy clothes once a week or 2-3 times a month, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                          • One in eight are occasional shoppers
                                                                                                                            • Under-25s are shopping less frequently
                                                                                                                              • Figure 54: Frequency of clothes shopping, September 2010 and September 2011
                                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Where Do 15-24s Shop for Clothes?

                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                              • Primark leads the way
                                                                                                                                • Figure 56: Consumers who have bought clothing from Primark in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                              • Six in ten female 15-24s shop at New Look
                                                                                                                                • Figure 57: Consumers who have bought clothing from New Look in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                              • Three in ten under-25s shop at H&M
                                                                                                                                • Topshop and River Island attract teenage ABs
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 58: Consumers who have bought clothing from River Island and Topshop/Topman in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                • Upmarket 20-24s shop at department stores
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 59: Consumers who have bought clothing from department stores and supermarkets in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                • Under-25 supermarket fashion shoppers tend to be Es with children
                                                                                                                                  • eBay and other online stores draw in an older crowd
                                                                                                                                    • Zara shoppers are not concerned with price
                                                                                                                                      • Vintage is a niche
                                                                                                                                        • Ted Baker is most popular among men in their early twenties
                                                                                                                                          • Decline in consumers shopping at all stores
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 60: Retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2010 and September 2011
                                                                                                                                        • The Consumer – 15-24s’ Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 61: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by gender, September 2011
                                                                                                                                            • The majority of youths prefer to shop solo
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 62: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes alone or with friends, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                            • Female teens prefer to shop socially
                                                                                                                                              • Male students align fashion with attractiveness
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 63: Consumers who think that wearing fashionable clothes makes them more attractive to the opposite sex
                                                                                                                                              • Affluent teens are frivolous shoppers
                                                                                                                                                • A fifth of under-25s follow the fashion crowd
                                                                                                                                                  • ABs put the greatest emphasis on quality over quantity
                                                                                                                                                    • Females seek out bargains
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 64: Consumers who prefer to buy fewer items of better quality clothing and those who mainly buy bargain clothing, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                    • Students go shopping with their parents
                                                                                                                                                      • Cost is immaterial to one in five ABs
                                                                                                                                                        • One in ten like to imitate their friends’ fashion style
                                                                                                                                                          • Under-25 Es are most inclined to shop with friends with similar style
                                                                                                                                                            • A shift in young shoppers’ attitudes towards spending
                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 65: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, September 2010 and September 2011
                                                                                                                                                          • The Consumer – Youths’ Attitudes Towards Buying Clothes

                                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 66: Attitudes towards buying clothes, February 2011
                                                                                                                                                              • Youths seek out bargains
                                                                                                                                                                • Impulse buying falls victim to the recession
                                                                                                                                                                  • Price-conscious youths shop around
                                                                                                                                                                    • Female under-25s are trading down
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Internal Market Environment

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 67: Agreement with lifestyle statements on personal appearance, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 68: Agreement with lifestyle statements on personal appearance, 2007-11
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 69: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion advertising, by company, 2007-July 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Consumer – Types of Clothing Bought by 16-24s

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 70: Spend on outerwear by 16-24s, by type, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 71: Spend on menswear, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 72: Spend on womenswear, by demographics, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Consumer – What Do 15-24s Spend Their Money On?

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 73: Most popular expenditure ranking, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 74: Next most popular expenditure ranking, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 75: First rank of expenditure, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 76: Second rank of expenditure, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Consumer – How Often do 15-24s Buy Clothes?

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 77: Frequency of clothes shopping, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 78: Frequency of clothes shopping, by most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 79: Frequency of clothes shopping, by next most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 80: Frequency of clothes shopping, by other retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Consumer – Where do 15-24s Shop for Clothes

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 81: Most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 82: Next most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 83: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 84: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by next most popular retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 85: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by other retailers shopped at in the last 12 months, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix – The Consumer – 15-24s’ Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 86: Most popular attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 87: Next most popular attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by demographics, September 2011
                                                                                                                                                                    • Appendix -The Consumer – Youths’ Attitudes Towards Buying Clothes

                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 88: Most popular statements on buying clothes by demographics, February 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 89: Next most popular statements on buying clothes by demographics, February 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 90: Most popular statements on buying clothes by demographics, February 2011
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 91: Next most popular statements on buying clothes by demographics, February 2011

                                                                                                                                                                    Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                    • Adidas
                                                                                                                                                                    • Arcadia Group
                                                                                                                                                                    • Associated British Foods Plc
                                                                                                                                                                    • Bershka France
                                                                                                                                                                    • Burton old
                                                                                                                                                                    • Champneys Health Resorts
                                                                                                                                                                    • Diesel
                                                                                                                                                                    • Dorothy Perkins old
                                                                                                                                                                    • Evans old
                                                                                                                                                                    • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                    • Firetrap
                                                                                                                                                                    • Flickr
                                                                                                                                                                    • Gianni Versace S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                                    • Grupo Inditex
                                                                                                                                                                    • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                                    • Harrods Group Total
                                                                                                                                                                    • Henleys Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                    • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                                    • Intel Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                    • J. Choo Limited
                                                                                                                                                                    • Miss Selfridge
                                                                                                                                                                    • Miss Sixty
                                                                                                                                                                    • New Look Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                    • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                    • Primark/Penneys
                                                                                                                                                                    • Pull & Bear UK
                                                                                                                                                                    • River Island Clothing Co Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                    • Roberto Cavalli
                                                                                                                                                                    • Selfridges Group
                                                                                                                                                                    • Stella McCartney
                                                                                                                                                                    • SuperGroup Plc (Retail)
                                                                                                                                                                    • Ted Baker
                                                                                                                                                                    • Topman old
                                                                                                                                                                    • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                                    • Trafford Centre
                                                                                                                                                                    • Twitter, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                    • Uniqlo UK Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                    • Wallis old
                                                                                                                                                                    • YouTube, Inc.

                                                                                                                                                                    Youth Fashion - UK - December 2011

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