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Youth Fashion - UK - December 2012

“The youth fashion market is a crowded space with lots of retailers competing for the spend of consumers aged 15-24. As young people are continuing to exercise a certain amount of caution when spending, retailers need to make sure they are delivering on both value and the latest fashions, combined with creative designs, in order to give them the competitive edge over other retailers. The successful retailers have upped their game during the recession and are providing credible and affordable catwalk interpretations, fresh designs and innovation.”

- Tamara Sender, Senior Clothing and Fashion Analyst

Some questions answered in this report include:

  • What is the difference between the spending habits of teenagers and those in their early twenties?
  • Where do under-25s shop?
  • How is multichannel affecting the way 15-24s shop?
  • Is clothing still a high priority for under-25s?
  • To what extent do promotions appeal to under-25s?

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Table of contents

  1. Introduction

      • Definitions
        • Abbreviations
        • Executive Summary

            • The market
              • Figure 1: Best- and worst- case forecast spending on clothing and footwear by 15-24s, at current prices, 2007-17
            • Market drivers
              • Dwindling number of 15-24-year-olds
                • Figure 2: Projected numbers of 15-24-year-olds in the UK, 2007-12 and 2012-17
              • Changing face of higher education
                • The financial situation of 15-24s
                  • Clothing number one priority
                    • Appearance most important to those who live with parents
                      • High rate of unemployment
                        • Companies, brands and innovation
                          • Retail competitor analysis
                            • Who’s innovating
                              • The consumer
                                • Outerwear purchases drop slightly
                                  • Figure 3: Trends in purchasing outerwear in the last 12 months among 15-24s, 2008-12
                                • The shifting retail landscape
                                  • Figure 4: Outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months among 15-24s, 2011 and 2012
                                • Retailers and age
                                  • Figure 5: Outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months among under-25s, by age range, October 2012
                                • Women mix and match retailers
                                  • 18-24s wait for the sales
                                    • Figure 6: Attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by age, October 2012
                                  • Three in ten women buying clothes less frequently
                                    • 15-17s use other money-saving tactics
                                      • 15-17s spend parents’ money on clothes
                                        • Enjoyment of in-store shopping beats online
                                          • Figure 7: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, October 2012
                                        • Quality becomes more important
                                          • 15-17s most fashion-led
                                            • Social media and fashion
                                              • Figure 8: Reasons for interacting with fashion brands, by 16-24s, April 2012
                                            • What we think
                                            • Issues in the Market

                                                • What is the difference between the spending habits of teenagers and those in their early twenties?
                                                  • Where do under-25s shop?
                                                    • How is multichannel affecting the way 15-24s shop?
                                                      • Is clothing still a high priority for under-25s?
                                                        • To what extent do promotions appeal to under-25s?
                                                        • Trend Applications

                                                            • Trend: Influentials
                                                              • Trend: Guiding Choice
                                                                • 2015 Trend: Brand Intervention
                                                                • Market Drivers

                                                                  • Key points
                                                                    • Changing face of higher education
                                                                      • Figure 9: All students at publicly funded higher education institutions (HEIs) in UK, by mode and level of study, 2006/07-2010/11
                                                                    • Rising student loans
                                                                      • Figure 10: Total amount of student loans lent to English domiciled students studying in the UK and EU students studying in England, 2006-12
                                                                    • Young, fashion conscious women
                                                                      • Figure 11: Statements on personal appearance, by age group and gender, 2012
                                                                    • Under-25s spend a lot on clothes
                                                                      • Figure 12: Statements on personal appearance, by age group and gender, 2012
                                                                    • The financial situation of the under-25s
                                                                      • Clothing the number one priority
                                                                        • M-commerce the norm among youth
                                                                          • Figure 13: Smartphone owners and using smartphones to access internet, by age, July 2012
                                                                          • Figure 14: Products/services purchased via a smartphone, by age, September 2012
                                                                          • Figure 15: Products/services purchased via a smartphone, within the last 12 months, September 2012
                                                                        • Dwindling number of 15-24-year-olds
                                                                          • Figure 16: Projected numbers of 15-24-year-olds in the UK, 2007-12 and 2012-17
                                                                        • High rate of unemployment
                                                                          • Figure 17: Unemployment rate for 16-24-year-olds, 2008-12
                                                                          • Figure 18: Number of unemployed 16-24s in the UK, November 2011-July 2012
                                                                        • Young living at home longer
                                                                          • Figure 19: UK households, by size, 2007-17
                                                                        • Appearance most important to those who live with parents
                                                                          • Figure 20: Top ten spending priorities, by current living situation, September 2012
                                                                      • Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

                                                                        • Strengths
                                                                          • Weaknesses
                                                                          • Who’s Innovating?

                                                                            • Key points
                                                                              • Online offering
                                                                                • New launches
                                                                                  • Multichannel experience
                                                                                    • Designer and celebrity collaborations
                                                                                      • Young bloggers
                                                                                        • Student-style promotions
                                                                                          • Bringing young people on board
                                                                                          • Competitive Context

                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                              • Figure 21: Spend on clothing and footwear by 15-24s and total spend on clothing and footwear, 2007-12
                                                                                          • Market Size and Forecast

                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                              • Youth fashion market reaches £10.6 billion in 2012
                                                                                                • Figure 22: Estimated expenditure on clothing and footwear by 15-24s, at current and constant prices, 2007-17
                                                                                              • The future
                                                                                                • Growth will slow to 8% over the next five years
                                                                                                  • Figure 23: Best- and worst- case forecast spending on clothing and footwear by 15-24s, at current prices, 2007-17
                                                                                                • Factors used in this forecast
                                                                                                • Retail Competitor Analysis

                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                    • Value and fashion-forward retailers outperform
                                                                                                      • Figure 24: Turnover of selected players in the youth fashion market, 2009-12, ranked by 2011 revenues
                                                                                                  • Space Allocation Summary

                                                                                                    • Key points
                                                                                                      • Figure 25: Space allocation estimates, September 2012
                                                                                                      • Figure 26: Space allocation estimates: womenswear specialists, September 2012
                                                                                                      • Figure 27: Space allocation estimates: menswear specialists, September 2012
                                                                                                  • Retail Product Mix

                                                                                                    • Clothing retailers: Estimated sales breakdown
                                                                                                      • Figure 28: Estimated sales breakdown, 2011-12
                                                                                                    • Arcadia chains
                                                                                                      • Figure 29: Arcadia chains: estimated sales breakdown, 2011/12
                                                                                                    • Sales density
                                                                                                      • Figure 30: Major clothing retailers, sales densities by product, 2011/12
                                                                                                  • Companies and Products

                                                                                                    • Topshop/Topman
                                                                                                        • Figure 31: Key financials of Arcadia Group Limited, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                      • H&M
                                                                                                          • Figure 32: Key financials for H&M (Hennes & Mauritz), 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                        • New Look
                                                                                                            • Figure 33: Key financials for New Look Group Plc, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                          • Primark
                                                                                                              • Figure 34: Key financials for Primark Stores Limited, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                            • River Island
                                                                                                                • Figure 35: Key financials for River Island Clothing Co. Limited, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                              • Republic
                                                                                                                  • Figure 36: Key financials for Republic (Retail) Ltd, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                • Superdry
                                                                                                                    • Figure 37: Key financials of SuperGroup Group, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                  • Hollister/Abercrombie & Fitch
                                                                                                                      • Figure 38: Key financials for Abercrombie & Fitch (UK), 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                      • Figure 39: Key financials for Hollister (UK), 2010-11
                                                                                                                    • Jack Wills
                                                                                                                        • Figure 40: Key financials for Jack Wills, 2010 and 2011
                                                                                                                      • ASOS
                                                                                                                          • Figure 41: Key financials for ASOS, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                        • Ones to Watch
                                                                                                                          • Paul’s Boutique
                                                                                                                            • Forever 21
                                                                                                                              • Motel Rocks
                                                                                                                              • Brand Communication and Promotion

                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                  • Topline expenditure climbing
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 42: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion, 2008-12
                                                                                                                                  • Advertising through the press takes the lion’s share
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 43: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion, by media type, 2008-12
                                                                                                                                  • New Look and H&M dominate adspend
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 44: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on fashion advertising, by company, 2008-12
                                                                                                                                • The Consumer – Types of Clothing Bought by 15-24s

                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 45: Trends in purchasing outerwear in the last 12 months among 15-24s, 2008-12
                                                                                                                                    • Outlook on outerwear
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 46: Purchasing of outerwear in the last 12 months by 15-24s, by gender, working status and region, 2012
                                                                                                                                    • Economic impact
                                                                                                                                      • Jeans and t-shirts dominate purchasing
                                                                                                                                        • Weathering the storm
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 47: Purchasing of jackets and coats in the last 12 months by under 25s, by gender, age, working status and region, 2012
                                                                                                                                        • Trousers and sportswear also falling from favour
                                                                                                                                          • Still suited to work
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 48: Purchasing of suits in the last 12 months by under 25s, by gender, age, working status and region, 2012
                                                                                                                                          • More womenswear categories show growth
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 49: Trends in purchasing menswear and womenswear in the last 12 months among under-25s, 2008-12
                                                                                                                                          • The effect of age on fashion purchasing
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 50: Difference in purchasing of clothing between under-25s and over-25sin the last 12 month, 2012
                                                                                                                                        • The Consumer – Where Do 15-24s Shop for Clothes?

                                                                                                                                          • Key points
                                                                                                                                              • Figure 51: Outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months among 15-24s, 2011 and 2012
                                                                                                                                            • The shifting retail landscape
                                                                                                                                              • Supermarkets grow in popularity
                                                                                                                                                • Retailers by age split
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 52: Outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months among 15-24s, by age range, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                • Value retailers
                                                                                                                                                  • Young fashion retailers
                                                                                                                                                    • 15-17s seek out higher priced retailers
                                                                                                                                                      • Department stores
                                                                                                                                                        • Buying online
                                                                                                                                                          • Most retailers favoured by women
                                                                                                                                                            • Young females mix and match retailers
                                                                                                                                                              • Men are one-stop shoppers
                                                                                                                                                                • River Island, Topshop and H&M lead fashion trends
                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 53: Correspondence Analysis – attitudes towards shopping for clothes by where people shop for clothes, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                • Methodology
                                                                                                                                                                • The Consumer – 15-24s’ Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 54: Attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                    • 18-24s wait for the sales
                                                                                                                                                                      • Men more willing to pay full price
                                                                                                                                                                        • Women are shopping less frequently
                                                                                                                                                                          • 15-17s use other money-saving tactics
                                                                                                                                                                            • Growing confidence on the high street?
                                                                                                                                                                              • 15-17s spend parents’ money on clothes
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Attitudes towards levels of clothes bought year-on-year, by age range, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                              • Virtual window shopping
                                                                                                                                                                                • Vintage fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                • The Consumer – 15-24s’ Further Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                                                                  • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 56: Further attitudes towards buying clothes among 15-24s, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Enjoyment of in-store shopping beats online
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Young buy online to avoid temptation
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 57: Attitudes towards buying clothes online and in the high street, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Londoners favour shopping in-store
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Quality becomes more important
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 58: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • 15-17s most fashion-led
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 59: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                          • 18-24s more preoccupied with fit
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Social Media and Fashion

                                                                                                                                                                                            • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Facebook and fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 60: Ways social media is used for fashion, by demographics, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 61: Reasons for interacting with fashion brands, by 16-24s, April 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                              • The Consumer – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                • Key points
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Three typologies of youth fashion buyers identified
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 62: Consumer typology groups for youth fashion, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Passion for Fashion (20%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Marketing message
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Value focused (54%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Marketing message
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Online shoppers (26%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Who are they?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Marketing message
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Market Drivers

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 63: Attitudes towards personal appearance among under-25s, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 64: Attitudes towards personal appearance among under-25s, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – The Consumer – Types of Clothing Bought by 15-24s

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 65: Purchasing of outwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 66: Purchasing of outerwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 67: Purchasing of outerwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 68: Purchasing of outerwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – The Consumer – Where Do 15-24s Shop for Clothes?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 69: Most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 70: Next most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 71: Other outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 72: Attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 73: Attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by next most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 74: Attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by other outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 75: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, by most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 76: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, by next most popular outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 77: Further attitudes towards buying clothes, by other outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – The Consumer – 15-24s’ Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 78: Most popular attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 79: Next most popular attitudes towards buying or shopping for clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – The Consumer – 15-24s’ Further Attitudes Towards Clothes Shopping

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 80: Most popular further attitudes towards buying clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 81: Next most popular further attitudes towards buying clothes, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Appendix – Target Groups

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 82: Target groups, by demographics, October 2012
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 83: Repertoire of outlets where clothing has been purchased in the last 12 months, by demographics, October 2012

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Companies Covered

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Abercrombie & Fitch UK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Arcadia Group
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • ASOS (UK retail sales)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Associated British Foods Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Bebo Inc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Bhs Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Burton old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Diesel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Dorothy Perkins old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Evans old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Facebook, Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Firetrap
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Forever 21 Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Gianni Versace S.p.A.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Grupo Inditex
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • H&M Hennes & Mauritz
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Henleys Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • House of Fraser Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • J. Choo Limited
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Jack Wills Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Miss Selfridge
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • New Look Group Plc
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Primark Stores Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Primark/Penneys
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • River Island Clothing Co Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Roberto Cavalli
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Selfridges Retail Ltd
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Stella McCartney
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • SuperGroup Plc (Retail)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • The Hollister Co.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • The TJX Companies
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Topman old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Topshop old
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Wallis old

                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Youth Fashion - UK - December 2012

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