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Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - France - January 2018

“French specialist beauty and personal care retailers are doing well, increasing their share of a sluggish market. Sephora leads by some margin, but Nocibé, now under the Douglas umbrella, is doing well and Kiko Milano is expanding rapidly. With 30% of female BPC buyers having shopped online, and 47% often researching products online before buying, this channel is an increasingly important part of the buying journey, particularly for beauty. The in-store experience of the brand is also a key driver, with many retailers using digital technologies to make their stores exciting places to visit. Having highly trained, professional staff providing help and advice as well as a range of beauty services is a key part of this.”
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Spending and inflation
              • Figure 1: France: consumer spending on personal care goods, 2012-17
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Channels of distribution
                • Figure 2: France: estimated channels of distribution for spending on beauty and personal care goods, 2016
              • Companies and brands
                • Key metrics
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 3: France: leading specialists’ shares of all beauty specialists’ sales, 2016
                  • Online
                    • The consumer
                      • Beauty and personal care products purchased
                        • Figure 4: France: BPC products purchased in the last 12 months – broad categories, November 2017
                      • Online and in-store shopping
                          • Figure 5: France: how beauty and personal care products were purchased, online vs in-store, November 2017
                        • Where they shop
                          • Figure 6: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2017
                        • Attitudes to buying beauty and personal care
                          • Figure 7: France: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care, November 2017
                        • What we think
                        • Issues and Insights

                          • How can beauty specialists adapt to changing shopping behaviour?
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                                • Is ethical BPC gaining momentum?
                                  • The issues
                                    • The implications
                                    • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                      • Economy picks up speed after prolonged period of subdued growth
                                        • BPC, a low growth market
                                          • BPC retailers doing well
                                            • Deflation holding back spending growth
                                              • Grocers and specialist chains are the main channels
                                              • Consumer Spending

                                                • Signs of growth in the French economy
                                                  • Beauty and personal care, a low growth market
                                                      • Figure 8: France: consumer spending on beauty and personal care (incl. VAT), 2012-17
                                                  • Product Market Breakdown

                                                      • Figure 9: France: main beauty and personal care markets, spending (incl. VAT), 2012-17
                                                      • Figure 10: France: main beauty and personal care markets, forecast spending (incl. VAT), 2018-21
                                                  • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                    • Total retail sales recovering, further growth forecast in 2017
                                                      • Beauty retailers’ sales accelerating
                                                        • Figure 11: France: health & beauty specialists, sales (excl. VAT), 2012-17
                                                        • Figure 12: France: health & beauty specialists, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2017-22
                                                    • Inflation

                                                        • Figure 13: France: consumer prices * of personal care items, annual % change, 2012-16
                                                        • Figure 14: France: consumer price inflation (HICP *) on personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2016-October 2017
                                                    • Channels of Distribution

                                                        • Figure 15: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, France, November 2017
                                                      • Grocers dominate, especially at lower end of the market
                                                        • Pharmacies and parapharmacies significant
                                                          • Department stores in the premium space
                                                            • Figure 16: France: estimated channels of distribution for spending on beauty and personal care goods, 2016
                                                        • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                                          • Specialists are thriving
                                                            • Sephora leads
                                                              • Leading groups generate three quarters of sector sales
                                                                • BPC not well suited to buying online
                                                                • Leading Players

                                                                  • Sephora benefitting from digital developments
                                                                    • Marionnaud struggling
                                                                      • Passion Beauté goes online
                                                                        • Kiko is thriving
                                                                          • Beauty brands are opening their own dedicated stores
                                                                            • L’Occitane
                                                                              • Figure 17: France: leading beauty specialists, sales, 2013-17
                                                                              • Figure 18: France: leading beauty specialists, outlets, 2013-17
                                                                              • Figure 19: France: leading beauty specialists, sales per outlet, 2013-17
                                                                          • Market Shares

                                                                              • Figure 20: France: leading specialists’ shares of all beauty specialists’ sales, 2013-16
                                                                          • Online

                                                                            • Online activity
                                                                              • Shopping online
                                                                                • Figure 21: France: online buyers in last 12 months in key sectors, 2011-17
                                                                              • Online sales
                                                                                • Leading online players
                                                                                  • Figure 22: France: beauty retailers: transactional websites, December 2016
                                                                                • Social media usage
                                                                                  • A quarter have viewed beauty content
                                                                                    • Figure 23: France: consumers that have seen beauty-related content on social media in the last six months, 2017
                                                                                • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                  • BPC, a partly non-discretionary market
                                                                                    • Women shopping more online
                                                                                      • In-store wins for the experience
                                                                                        • Online primarily for repeat purchasing
                                                                                          • Electricals the most popular category bought online
                                                                                            • Grocers the dominant channel
                                                                                              • Samples and free gifts are popular
                                                                                                • Provenance an important concern
                                                                                                  • Help me to choose
                                                                                                  • Beauty and Personal Care Products Purchased

                                                                                                    • Partly non-discretionary
                                                                                                      • Figure 24: France: beauty and personal care products bought in the last 12 months – broad categories, November 2017
                                                                                                    • Male beauty a growth area
                                                                                                        • Figure 25: France: beauty and personal care products bought in the last 12 months – detailed categories, November 2017
                                                                                                      • Older men buy most
                                                                                                        • Figure 26: France: beauty and personal care products bought in the last 12 months by men, November 2017
                                                                                                    • Online and In-store Shopping for Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                                      • Women shopping more online
                                                                                                        • In-store wins for the experience
                                                                                                          • Online primarily for repeat purchasing
                                                                                                            • Figure 27: France: in-store vs online shoppers for beauty and personal care products, November 2017
                                                                                                            • Figure 28: France: online beauty and personal care shoppers, November 2017
                                                                                                            • Figure 29: France: beauty and personal care products bought in the last 12 months, in-store vs online, November 2017
                                                                                                        • Where Beauty and Personal Care Products are Purchased

                                                                                                              • Figure 30: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2017
                                                                                                            • Men more likely to grab-and-go while women seek options
                                                                                                              • Figure 31: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, by gender, November 2017
                                                                                                            • Where people shopped and what they bought
                                                                                                              • What consumers bought from the specialists
                                                                                                                • Figure 32: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, by where they shopped, November 2017
                                                                                                              • What consumers bought from the non-specialists
                                                                                                                • Figure 33: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, by where they shopped, November 2017
                                                                                                              • Customer profiles
                                                                                                                • Figure 34: France: usage of retailers for buying beauty and personal care products, by average age and income, November 2017
                                                                                                            • Attitudes to Buying Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                                              • Freebies please…
                                                                                                                • Provenance an important concern
                                                                                                                  • Help me to choose
                                                                                                                    • Figure 35: France: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care products, November 2017
                                                                                                                  • Attitudes to buying beauty and personal care products by shops used
                                                                                                                    • Figure 36: France: attitudes to buying BPC products by retailers used, November 2017
                                                                                                                • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                                  • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                    • Data sources
                                                                                                                    • A. S. Watson (Europe) (Inc. Marionnaud)

                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                          • Following the UK
                                                                                                                            • Discounting
                                                                                                                              • Service
                                                                                                                                • Online
                                                                                                                                  • Marionnaud
                                                                                                                                    • Where next
                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 37: A. S. Watson (Europe): group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 38: A. S. Watson (Europe): outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                        • Marionnaud
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 39: Marionnaud France: financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                          • AS Watson in Europe
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 40: AS Watson: operating companies in Europe, 2017
                                                                                                                                          • Savers
                                                                                                                                            • The Perfume Shop
                                                                                                                                            • The Body Shop

                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                  • Distinct USP suffered under the weight of L’Oréal ownership
                                                                                                                                                    • Mobile-first e-commerce platform roll-out
                                                                                                                                                      • Shop-in-shop deal with El Corte Inglés an opportunity to attract more customers
                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 41: The Body Shop - Retail sales: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 42: The Body Shop: Estimated UK sales performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 43: The Body Shop - Retail Sales: Estimated outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                          • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                • Strengthening market position in Spain and Italy
                                                                                                                                                                  • Transforming the online beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                                    • Enhanced loyalty card to win new customers
                                                                                                                                                                      • In-store events to help drive footfall in German shops
                                                                                                                                                                        • Targeting men with new skincare products range and dedicated in-store spaces
                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 44: Douglas Group: group sales performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 45: Douglas Group: estimated outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                              • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                    • 20-year celebration leads to collaboration with Vogue Italia
                                                                                                                                                                                      • KikoID opens in Milan
                                                                                                                                                                                        • #kikotrendsetters
                                                                                                                                                                                          • New CEO
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 46: Kiko Milano, Group sales performance, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 47: Kiko Milano, estimated outlet data, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Lush Retail

                                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Bigger and better shops
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • New app and virtual shopping assistant to boost customer experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Expanded payment option with Bitcoin digital currency
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 48: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 49: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty launched exclusively with Sephora
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Mobile and digital offerings expanded
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Small store format rolled out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • New format introduced in Spain
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • German expansion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 50: LVMH: Selective Retailing and estimated Sephora retail sales, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 51: Sephora: outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Yves Rocher

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Tapping into online marketplaces to reach out to more consumers in Asia
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Enhanced digital presence strengthens multichannel proposition
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Innovative one drop shower gel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 52: Rocher Groupe: estimated group sales performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 53: Rocher Groupe: estimated outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - France - January 2018

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