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Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - France - January 2019

“In a low growth market, the French specialist beauty sector remains relatively stable, with several well-performing retailers, notably Sephora, creating a dynamic environment. Elements of spending are well suited to shopping online, and most retailers now sell this way, with varying degrees of digital integration. Amazon poses an ongoing threat with its dedicated beauty sub-sites and growing presence in the French market”
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Clean and green beauty
  • The future for online and digital

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this Report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: France: consumer spending on beauty and personal care (incl. VAT), 2013-18
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Channels of distribution
                • Figure 2: France: estimated distribution of spending on beauty and personal care goods by channel, 2018
              • Companies and brands
                • Leading players
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 3: France: leading beauty specialists’ shares of all beauty specialists’ sales, 2018
                  • Online
                    • The consumer
                      • BPC products purchased
                        • Figure 4: France: BPC products bought in the last 12 months – Broad categories, October 2018
                      • Online and in-store shopping for BPC
                        • Where they shop for BPC
                          • Figure 5: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, October 2018
                        • Attitudes to shopping for BPC products
                          • Figure 6: France: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care, October 2018
                        • What we think
                        • Issues and Insights

                          • Clean and green beauty
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                                • The future for online and digital
                                  • The facts
                                    • The implications
                                    • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                      • Economy picking up after prolonged period of low growth
                                        • BPC, a low growth market
                                          • BPC retailers doing well
                                            • Grocers and specialist chains are the main channels
                                            • Consumer Spending

                                              • Signs of growth in the French economy
                                                • Low growth in beauty and personal care spending
                                                    • Figure 7: France: consumer spending on beauty and personal care (incl. VAT), 2013-18
                                                  • Product market breakdown
                                                      • Figure 8: France: main beauty and personal care markets, spending (inc VAT), 2013-18
                                                      • Figure 9: France: main beauty and personal care markets, forecast spending (inc VAT), 2019-22
                                                  • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                    • Total retail sales recovering, further growth forecast in 2018
                                                      • Beauty retailers’ sales accelerating
                                                        • Figure 10: France: health & beauty specialists, sales (excl VAT), 2013-18
                                                        • Figure 11: France: health & beauty specialists, forecast sales, excl VAT, 2018-23
                                                    • Inflation

                                                        • Figure 12: France: consumer prices * of personal care items, annual % change, 2013-17
                                                        • Figure 13: France: consumer price inflation (HICP *) on personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2017-October 2018
                                                    • Channels of Distribution

                                                        • Figure 14: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, France, October 2018
                                                      • Grocers dominate
                                                        • Pharmacies and parapharmacies significant
                                                          • Department stores have a low share
                                                            • Online growing
                                                              • Figure 15: France: estimated distribution of spending on beauty and personal care goods by channel, 2018
                                                          • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                                            • Sephora leads
                                                              • Leading groups generate almost 80% of sector sales
                                                                • Online BPC shopping growing
                                                                • Leading Players

                                                                  • Sephora leads
                                                                    • Yves Rocher developing new store formats
                                                                      • Marionnaud still in the red despite investments
                                                                        • Figure 16: France: leading beauty and personal care specialists, sales, 2014-18
                                                                        • Figure 17: France: leading beauty and personal care specialists, outlets, 2014-18
                                                                      • Sales per outlet
                                                                        • Figure 18: France: leading beauty and personal care specialists, sales per outlet, 2014-18
                                                                    • Market Shares

                                                                        • Figure 19: France: leading beauty specialists’ shares of all beauty specialists’ sales, 2014-18
                                                                    • Online

                                                                      • Online activity
                                                                        • Shopping online
                                                                          • Figure 20: France: online purchases in the last 12 months in key sectors, 2012-18
                                                                        • Online BPC sales
                                                                          • Leading online players
                                                                            • Digital world potential
                                                                              • Figure 21: France: beauty and grooming-related activities done or willing to do, 2018
                                                                          • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                            • BPC, a partly non-discretionary market
                                                                              • Only 24% buy online
                                                                                • Supermarkets lead for buying BPC
                                                                                  • Demand for ethical and natural products
                                                                                    • Experiences appeal to the young
                                                                                    • Beauty and Personal Care Products Purchased

                                                                                        • Figure 22: France: BPC products bought in the last 12 months – Broad categories, October 2018
                                                                                    • Online and In-store Shopping for Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                      • Women shop more online
                                                                                        • Figure 23: France: online BPC shoppers, October 2018
                                                                                        • Figure 24: France: profile of online and in-store buyers of beauty and personal care products, October 2018
                                                                                        • Figure 25: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, by how they shopped, October 2018
                                                                                    • Where Beauty and Personal Care Products are Purchased

                                                                                        • Figure 26: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, October 2018
                                                                                      • Customer profiles
                                                                                        • Figure 27: France: usage of retailers for buying beauty and personal care products, by average age and income, October 2018
                                                                                      • Where people shopped and what they bought
                                                                                        • Figure 28: France: BPC products purchased by type of retailer used, deviation from average, October 2018
                                                                                        • Figure 29: France: BPC products purchased by specialist retailer used, deviation from average, October 2018
                                                                                    • Attitudes to Shopping for Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                                        • Demand for ethical and natural products
                                                                                          • Figure 30: France: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care, October 2018
                                                                                        • Experiences appeal to the young
                                                                                          • Figure 31: France: in-store related attitudes to buying beauty and personal care by age group, October 2018
                                                                                        • Ethics and nature have broader appeal
                                                                                          • Figure 32: France: environmental attitudes to buying beauty and personal care by age group, October 2018
                                                                                        • Price more important to women
                                                                                          • Figure 33: France: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care, % agreeing that “I often compare the price of a product across different retailers” by age group and gender, October 2018
                                                                                        • Customer profiles for different attitudes
                                                                                          • Figure 34: France: profile of those agreeing with selected attitude statements, October 2018
                                                                                        • Choice and price
                                                                                          • Figure 35: France: attitudes to buying beauty products by retailer used, October 2018
                                                                                        • Environmental and ethical concerns
                                                                                          • Figure 36: France: attitudes to buying beauty products by retailer used, October 2018
                                                                                      • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                        • Abbreviations
                                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                                          • AS Watson

                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                • Diverse collection of businesses
                                                                                                  • Recent focus on service and online
                                                                                                    • Marionnaud a poor fit for AS Watson structure
                                                                                                      • Where next?
                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                            • Figure 37: AS Watson (Europe): group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                            • Figure 38: AS Watson (Europe): outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                            • Rossmann
                                                                                                              • Kruidvat and Superdrug
                                                                                                                • Savers and Prijsmepper
                                                                                                                  • Other businesses
                                                                                                                    • Figure 39: AS Watson Europe, operating companies, 2017
                                                                                                                • The Body Shop

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • New owner reinforces values
                                                                                                                        • New brand ambassadors could personalise ethical and green appeal
                                                                                                                          • Missing out on new product benefits
                                                                                                                            • Continued investment needed in physical retail
                                                                                                                              • Broadening appeal to older consumers
                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 40: The Body Shop: group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 41: The Body Shop: estimated UK sales performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 42: The Body Shop: outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                    • Product mix
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 43: The Body Shop: sales, by category, 2017
                                                                                                                                  • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                        • New CEO’s bold new strategy to rejuvenate and reposition the brand more upmarket
                                                                                                                                          • Modernising bricks-and-mortar stores
                                                                                                                                            • Website enhancements help grow online sales
                                                                                                                                              • Innovative and exclusive product mix
                                                                                                                                                • High value of Beauty Card members
                                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 44: Douglas Group: group sales performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                      • Figure 45: Douglas Group: estimated outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                    • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                                                          • Hits the buffers in key markets including US, UK and Germany
                                                                                                                                                            • Injection of capital will allow it to retarget its expansion
                                                                                                                                                              • Online offers wide international coverage but some stores will be necessary
                                                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 46: Kiko Milano: group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 47: Kiko Milano: outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                  • Lush Retail Ltd

                                                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                        • Lush responds to consumer demand with its ‘Community Products’
                                                                                                                                                                          • Lush goes packaging-free
                                                                                                                                                                            • Lush enables customers to make their own bath bombs
                                                                                                                                                                              • Wales’ first Lush Spa Shop opens in Cardiff
                                                                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: Lush Retail Ltd: group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: Lush Retail Ltd: outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Continuous product launches help drive success
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Pursuing new expansion in Germany and Russia
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Use of technology and service drives store appeal
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 50: Sephora: group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 51: Sephora: outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Yves Rocher

                                                                                                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Focused on creating a more immersive in-store experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Creative pop-up store and bespoke off-site experiences
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Acquisition to boost market penetration outside the euro area
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Alternative packaging breakthrough to reduce ecological footprint
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 52: Rocher Groupe: estimated group sales performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 53: Rocher Groupe: estimated outlet data, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - France - January 2019

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