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Description

Description

Covered in this report

Spending on BPC products has declined in France over the last three years, and many retailers have struggled to maintain sales momentum. The market grew by an estimated 0.2% in 2019 to €21.4 billion (including VAT). This was only €350 million larger than in 2014.


Sephora is the clear market leader and is more than twice the size of its nearest rival. The next two largest players in terms of sales are Nocibé and Marionnaud, but botanics brand Yves Rocher has the largest store network. Many retailers have been investing in high tech innovations for their stores as well as improving their multichannel proposition, leveraging the growing range of digital solutions that are now available to the industry.


The competition from online is becoming more significant as pureplayers increase their beauty offer - Amazon, Cdiscount, Zalando and ASOS all now have beauty departments on their websites. Ecommerce is also allowing cosmetic brands to market their products directly. There is also growing competition from low-cost chains, such as Kiko and Adopt, but the threat from the grocers is reducing a little as the hypermarket format continues to struggle

“French beauty and personal care specialists are operating in a tough environment – demand is weak and competition is growing from online. Retailers are investing in in-store tech and innovations that blend with the digital world, increasing their omnichannel integration. Services that have the human touch are also helping to make the store an appealing way to shop for beauty. Sephora is the market leader, twice as big as its nearest rival, and is particularly advanced in these respects. Environmental and ethical issues are growing in importance and our research shows that this is an area where retailers need to be responding. In future, the clean beauty category looks ripe for success and retailers need to be part of this.”
– Natalie Macmillan, Senior European Retail Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Making the store an exciting place
  • The importance of ethical and clean beauty for retailers

What's included

What's included

Table of contents

Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: France: Consumer spending on beauty and personal care, 2014-19
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Channels of distribution
                • Figure 2: France: estimated distribution of spending on beauty and personal care goods by channel, 2019
              • Companies and brands
                • Key metrics
                  • Market shares
                    • Figure 3: France: Leading beauty specialists’ shares of all beauty specialists’ sales, 2019
                  • Online
                    • The consumer
                      • Beauty and personal care products purchased
                        • Figure 4: France: BPC products bought in the last 12 months – Broad categories, November 2019
                      • Online shopping for beauty and personal care products
                        • Figure 5: France: Proportion (%) of BPC shoppers buying online, November 2019 and October 2018
                      • Where beauty and personal care products are purchased
                        • Figure 6: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2019
                      • Attitudes to shopping for beauty and personal care products
                        • Figure 7: France: Attitudes to shopping for BPC products and retailers, November 2019
                      • What we think
                      • Issues and insights  

                        • Making the store an exciting place
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                              • The importance of ethical and clean beauty for retailers
                                • The facts
                                  • The implications
                                  • The market – What you need to know

                                    • BPC spending declining
                                      • But retailers doing well
                                        • No price rises
                                          • Specialists the most important channel
                                          • Consumer spending

                                            • The economy
                                              • No recent growth in spending on beauty and personal care
                                                  • Figure 8: France: Consumer spending on beauty and personal care (including VAT), 2014-19
                                                • Product market breakdown
                                                    • Figure 9: France: Main beauty and personal care markets, spending (including VAT), 2014-19
                                                    • Figure 10: France: Main beauty and personal care markets, forecast spending (inc VAT), 2020-23
                                                • Sector size and forecast

                                                    • Health & beauty retailers holding steady
                                                      • Figure 11: France: Health & beauty specialists’ sales (excl VAT), 2014-19
                                                      • Figure 12: France: Health & beauty specialists’ sales, forecasts (excl VAT), 2020-24
                                                  • Inflation

                                                      • Figure 13: France: Consumer prices * of personal care items, Annual % change, 2014-18
                                                      • Figure 14: France: Consumer price inflation (HICP *) on personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2018-October 2019
                                                  • Channels of distribution

                                                        • Figure 15: France: estimated distribution of spending on beauty and personal care goods by channel, 2019
                                                    • Companies and brands – What you need to know

                                                      • A competitive sector
                                                        • Sephora growing share at expense of other groups
                                                          • 4% of spending goes online
                                                          • Leading players

                                                            • Sephora extending its lead
                                                              • Marionnaud still up for sale
                                                                • Beauty Success Group outperforming spending
                                                                  • Alliance of the independent groups
                                                                    • Yves Rocher remains popular
                                                                      • Ones to watch
                                                                          • Figure 16: France: Leading beauty and personal care specialists, sales, 2015-19
                                                                          • Figure 17: France: Leading beauty and personal care specialists, outlets, 2015-19
                                                                        • Sales per outlet
                                                                          • Figure 18: France: Leading beauty and personal care specialists, sales per outlet, 2015-19
                                                                      • Market shares

                                                                          • Figure 19: France: Leading beauty specialists’ shares of all beauty retailers sales, 2015-19
                                                                      • Online

                                                                        • Online activity
                                                                          • Shopping online
                                                                            • Figure 20: France: Online purchasing in the last 12 months in key sectors, 2014-19
                                                                          • Online BPC sales
                                                                            • Leading online players
                                                                              • Figure 21: France: Search interest on Google, selected BPC retailers, last 12 months, December 2018-December 2019
                                                                            • Social media
                                                                              • Figure 22: France: consumers that have seen beauty-related content on social media in the last six months, 2019
                                                                            • Tutorials on YouTube and Facebook most popular
                                                                              • Figure 23: France: top 5 social media activities in relation to different beauty content creators in the last six months, 2019
                                                                            • Behaviours around BPC social media
                                                                              • Figure 24: France: Behaviours around BPC social media, 2019
                                                                          • The consumer – What you need to know

                                                                            • Elements of the market are non-discretionary
                                                                              • Online influence is growing
                                                                                • Grocers are the most shopped
                                                                                  • The in-store experience
                                                                                    • Environmental concerns
                                                                                    • Beauty and personal care products purchased

                                                                                        • Figure 25: France: BPC products bought in the last 12 months – Broad categories, November 2019
                                                                                        • Figure 26: France: BPC products bought in the last 12 months – Broad categories, by gender, November 2019
                                                                                    • Online and in-store shopping for beauty and personal care products

                                                                                        • Figure 27: France: Proportion (%) of BPC shoppers buying online, November 2019 and October 2018
                                                                                    • Where beauty and personal care products are purchased

                                                                                      • Grocers lead – opportunities in beauty?
                                                                                        • French department stores are less important
                                                                                          • Figure 28: France: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2019
                                                                                        • Customer profiles
                                                                                          • Figure 29: France: Where they purchased beauty and personal care items in the last 12 months, by age and income, November 2019
                                                                                        • Women shop around more than men
                                                                                          • Figure 30: France: Repertoire of where they purchased beauty and personal care items in the last 12 months, November 2019
                                                                                        • Online shopping and retailers used
                                                                                          • Figure 31: France: numbers shopping online by retailer used, deviation from average, November 2019
                                                                                        • Where people shopped and what they bought
                                                                                          • Figure 32: France: Beauty and personal care products purchased by retailer used: specialists, November 2019
                                                                                          • Figure 33: France: Beauty and personal care products purchased by retailer used: Non-specialists, November 2019
                                                                                      • Attitudes to shopping for beauty and personal care products

                                                                                        • Experience
                                                                                          • Sustainability
                                                                                            • Simplification
                                                                                              • Figure 34: France: Attitudes to shopping for BPC products and BPC retailers, November 2019
                                                                                            • Experience and advice
                                                                                              • Figure 35: France: Attitudes to shopping for BPC products and BPC retailers by retailer shopped, November 2019
                                                                                            • Environmentally minded
                                                                                              • Figure 36: France: Attitudes to shopping for BPC products and BPC retailers by retailer shopped, November 2019
                                                                                            • Attitudes to brands and products
                                                                                              • Figure 37: France: Attitudes to shopping for BPC products and BPC retailers by retailer shopped, November 2019
                                                                                          • Appendix – Data sources, abbreviations and supporting information

                                                                                            • Abbreviations
                                                                                              • Data sources
                                                                                              • The Body Shop

                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                    • New-look store design
                                                                                                      • Cash-free store concept planned
                                                                                                        • Combatting the growing issue of plastic pollution
                                                                                                          • B Corp certification strengthens the brand’s ethical credentials
                                                                                                            • Capitalising on the vegan trend
                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                  • Figure 38: The Body Shop: Estimated retail sales performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                  • Figure 39: The Body Shop: Outlet data, 2014-18
                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • Expanded online beauty offering with marketplace proposition
                                                                                                                        • Strengthening its position in the luxury cosmetic sector
                                                                                                                          • Store makeovers offering expanded services and innovative experiences
                                                                                                                            • Beauty-on-demand
                                                                                                                              • Tapping into the ‘clean’ beauty trend
                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 40: Douglas Group: group sales performance, 2014/15-2018/19
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 41: Douglas Group: Store data, September 2018
                                                                                                                                    • Figure 42: Douglas Group: Outlet data, 2014/15-2018/19
                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                  • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                        • Brand new store concept and personalised lipstick
                                                                                                                                          • More store traffic means more opportunities for sales
                                                                                                                                            • Shifting physical expansion eastwards
                                                                                                                                              • Targeting a bigger share of the online beauty market
                                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 43: Kiko Milano: Estimated group financial performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 44: Kiko Milano: Estimated outlet data, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                  • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                                        • Hyper personalised in-store experience
                                                                                                                                                          • Transforming the at-home beauty experience
                                                                                                                                                            • A more transparent beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                              • Tapping into the embryonic cannabis-infused beauty market
                                                                                                                                                                • Innovative new beauty products
                                                                                                                                                                  • Loyalty-driven credit card and enhanced Beauty Insider perks for frequent shoppers
                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 45: Sephora: group sales performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 46: Sephora: Estimated outlet data, 2014-18

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