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Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - Italy - January 2018

“Although the Italian BPC market remains fragmented, there is ongoing consolidation in the market as a number of the leading specialists strengthen their position. As the economy continues to recover, there will be new opportunities for retailers to capture increased spending on beauty and personal care. Having a differentiated offer will be important but beyond that retailers that can tap into the underlying demand for more information on provenance and transparency will be best placed to succeed.”
– Samantha Dover, Retail Analyst

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: Italy: annual percentage change in total consumer spending and consumer spending on personal care, 2012-17
            • Inflation
              • Figure 2: Italy: consumer price inflation on all items and personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2016-November 2017
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 3: Italy: annual percentage change in retail sales, by sector, 2012-17
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 4: Italy: estimated channels of distribution for beauty and personal care products, 2017
            • Leading players
              • Key metrics
                • Market shares
                  • Figure 5: Italy: leading BPC specialists’ estimated shares of all consumer spending on personal care goods, 2017
                • Online
                  • The consumer
                    • Beauty and personal care products purchased
                      • Figure 6: Italy: beauty and personal care products purchased in the last 12 months, November 2017
                    • Online and in-store shopping
                      • Figure 7: Italy: how beauty and personal care products were purchased, online vs in-store, November 2017
                    • Where they shop
                      • Figure 8: Italy: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2017
                    • Attitudes to buying beauty and personal care
                      • Figure 9: Italy: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care products, November 2017
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                      • An increasingly competitive BPC market
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • Giving customers the right shopping experience
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                  • Consumer spending on personal care continues to rise
                                    • Beauty products drive growth in the BPC market
                                      • Retail sales through specialists see robust growth
                                        • Low inflation in the personal care sector sustained
                                          • Grocers capture 25% of spending on personal care items
                                          • Consumer Spending

                                            • Ongoing weakness in Italy’s economy
                                              • Personal care maintains share of all spending
                                                • Figure 10: Italy: consumer spending on beauty and personal care (incl. VAT), 2012-17
                                            • Product Market Breakdown

                                              • Beauty categories outperforming personal care
                                                • Figure 11: Italy: main beauty and personal care markets, spending (incl. VAT) 2012-17
                                                • Figure 12: Italy: main beauty and personal care markets, forecast spending (incl. VAT) 2018-21
                                            • Sector Size and Forecast

                                              • Retail sales through health & beauty specialists rise 2.6%
                                                • Figure 13: Italy: health & beauty specialists, sales (excl. VAT), 2012-17
                                                • Figure 14: Italy: health & beauty specialists, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2017-22
                                            • Inflation

                                              • Consumer prices fall into deflationary terms
                                                • Figure 15: Italy: consumer prices of personal care items, annual % change, 2011-16
                                              • Personal care inflation remains stable
                                                • Figure 16: Italy: consumer price inflation on all items and personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2016-November 2017
                                                • Figure 17: Italy: breakdown of consumer price inflation on personal care products and services, annual % change, January 2016-November 2017
                                            • Channels of Distribution

                                              • Specialists increase share of BPC market
                                                • Figure 18: Italy: estimated channels of distribution for beauty and personal care products, 2017
                                                • Figure 19: Italy: estimated channels of distribution for beauty and personal care products, 2015-17
                                            • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                              • Consistent growth amongst the Italian BPC specialists
                                                • Douglas acquisition of LLG set to disrupt the market
                                                  • Leading specialists gaining market share
                                                    • Rising number of Italian consumers shopping online
                                                    • Leading Players

                                                      • Acqua & Sapone rival fast approaching
                                                        • Figure 20: Italy: leading beauty specialists, estimated sales, 2013-17
                                                      • Wycon’s ambitious growth plans
                                                        • Figure 21: Italy: leading beauty specialists, estimated outlet numbers, 2013-17
                                                        • Figure 22: Italy: leading beauty specialists, estimated sales per outlet, 2013-17
                                                    • Market Shares

                                                      • Leading specialists increase share of Italian BPC market
                                                        • Figure 23: Italy: leading BPC specialists’ estimated shares of all spending on personal care goods, 2017
                                                        • Figure 24: Italy: leading beauty specialists’ estimated share of all spending on personal care goods, 2013-17
                                                    • Online

                                                      • Online usage
                                                        • Shopping online
                                                          • Figure 25: Italy: online buyers in last 12 months in key categories, 2012-17
                                                        • Online sales and leading online players
                                                          • Figure 26: Italy: how beauty and personal care products were purchased, online vs in-store, November 2017
                                                        • Italy’s beauty retailers move online
                                                          • Figure 27: Italy: beauty retailers: transactional websites, January 2018
                                                        • Social media usage
                                                          • Almost half have viewed beauty content
                                                            • Figure 28: Italy: consumer that have seen beauty-related content on social media in the last six months, 2017
                                                          • Tutorials on YouTube and Facebook most popular
                                                            • Figure 29: Italy: top 5 social media activities done in relation to different beauty content creators in the last six months, 2017
                                                          • The benefits of online beauty content
                                                            • Figure 30: Italy: benefits from using tutorial and reviews on social media, 2017
                                                        • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                          • High BPC purchasing amongst Italian consumers
                                                            • In-store remains primary purchasing channel
                                                              • Four out five shop for BPC with a non-specialist
                                                                • Consumers are overwhelmed, but don’t necessarily want help
                                                                • Beauty and Personal Care Products Purchased

                                                                  • Almost everyone buys BPC products
                                                                    • Figure 31: Italy: beauty and personal care purchasing in the last 12 months, November 2017
                                                                  • Oral hygiene most purchased category
                                                                    • Figure 32: Italy: beauty and personal care products purchased in the last 12 months – detailed categories, November 2017
                                                                  • Women more active buyers
                                                                    • Figure 33: Italy: beauty and personal care purchasing in the last 12 months – detailed categories, by gender, November 2017
                                                                  • Older shoppers take greater share of personal care purchasing
                                                                    • Figure 34: Italy: beauty and personal care purchasing in the last 12 months, by age, November 2017
                                                                • Online and In-Store Shopping for Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                  • Most still shop in-store
                                                                    • Figure 35: Italy: in-store vs online shoppers for beauty and personal care products, November 2017
                                                                  • Women more likely to shop online
                                                                    • Figure 36: Italy: in-store vs online shoppers for beauty and personal care products, by gender, November 2017
                                                                  • Online bias towards young people
                                                                    • Figure 37: Italy: in-store vs online shoppers for beauty and personal care products, by age, November 2017
                                                                  • Beauty categories most likely to be bought online
                                                                    • Figure 38: Italy: beauty and personal care products bought in the last 12 months, in-store vs online, November 2017
                                                                • Where Beauty and Personal Care Products Were Purchased

                                                                  • The popularity of the non-specialists
                                                                    • Figure 39: Italy: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2017
                                                                  • More than half shop for BPC with the grocers
                                                                    • Figure 40: Italy: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, November 2017
                                                                  • Customer profiles
                                                                    • Figure 41: Italy: where beauty and personal care products were purchased, by age and income, November 2017
                                                                  • Where people shopped and what they bought
                                                                    • What consumers bought from the specialists
                                                                      • Figure 42: Italy: BPC products purchased by retailer used, deviation from average: specialists, November 2017
                                                                    • What consumers bought from the non-specialists
                                                                      • Figure 43: Italy: BPC products purchased by retailer used, deviation from average: non-specialists, November 2017
                                                                  • Attitudes to Buying Beauty and Personal Care Products

                                                                    • Demand for information on provenance
                                                                      • Figure 44: Italy: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care products, November 2017
                                                                    • Customer profiles by attitudes
                                                                      • Consumers are overwhelmed, but don’t necessarily want help
                                                                        • Figure 45: Italy: attitudes to buying beauty and personal care, by age and income, November 2017
                                                                    • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                      • Abbreviations
                                                                        • Data sources
                                                                        • Acqua & Sapone

                                                                            • What we think
                                                                              • Selex and Acqua e Sapone sign agreement
                                                                                • Online store still underdeveloped
                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                      • Figure 46: Acqua & Sapone: estimated group sales performance, 2013-17
                                                                                      • Figure 47: Acqua & Sapone: estimated outlet data, 2014-17
                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                    • A. S. Watson (Europe) (Inc. Marionnaud)

                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                          • Following the UK
                                                                                            • Discounting
                                                                                              • Service
                                                                                                • Online
                                                                                                  • Marionnaud
                                                                                                    • Where next
                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                          • Figure 48: A. S. Watson (Europe): group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                          • Figure 49: A. S. Watson (Europe): outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                        • Marionnaud
                                                                                                          • Figure 50: Marionnaud France: financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                          • AS Watson in Europe
                                                                                                            • Figure 51: AS Watson: operating companies in Europe, 2017
                                                                                                          • Savers
                                                                                                            • The Perfume Shop
                                                                                                            • The Body Shop

                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                  • Distinct USP suffered under the weight of L’Oréal ownership
                                                                                                                    • Mobile-first e-commerce platform roll-out
                                                                                                                      • Shop-in-shop deal with El Corte Inglés an opportunity to attract more customers
                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                            • Figure 52: The Body Shop - Retail sales: Group financial performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                            • Figure 53: The Body Shop: Estimated UK sales performance, 2012-16
                                                                                                                            • Figure 54: The Body Shop - Retail Sales: Estimated outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                          • Douglas Group

                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                • Strengthening market position in Spain and Italy
                                                                                                                                  • Transforming the online beauty shopping experience
                                                                                                                                    • Enhanced loyalty card to win new customers
                                                                                                                                      • In-store events to help drive footfall in German shops
                                                                                                                                        • Targeting men with new skincare products range and dedicated in-store spaces
                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Douglas Group: group sales performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                • Figure 56: Douglas Group: estimated outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                              • Kiko Milano

                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                    • 20-year celebration leads to collaboration with Vogue Italia
                                                                                                                                                      • KikoID opens in Milan
                                                                                                                                                        • #kikotrendsetters
                                                                                                                                                          • New CEO
                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 57: Kiko Milano, Group sales performance, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 58: Kiko Milano, estimated outlet data, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                              • Lush Retail

                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                    • Bigger and better shops
                                                                                                                                                                      • New app and virtual shopping assistant to boost customer experience
                                                                                                                                                                        • Expanded payment option with Bitcoin digital currency
                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 59: Lush Retail Ltd: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 60: Lush Retail Ltd: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                            • Sephora

                                                                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty launched exclusively with Sephora
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Mobile and digital offerings expanded
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Small store format rolled out
                                                                                                                                                                                        • New format introduced in Spain
                                                                                                                                                                                          • German expansion
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 61: LVMH: Selective Retailing and estimated Sephora retail sales, 2012-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 62: Sephora: outlet data, 2012-16
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Yves Rocher

                                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Tapping into online marketplaces to reach out to more consumers in Asia
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Enhanced digital presence strengthens multichannel proposition
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Innovative one drop shower gel
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 63: Rocher Groupe: estimated group sales performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Figure 64: Rocher Groupe: estimated outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Beauty and Personal Care Retailing - Italy - January 2018

                                                                                                                                                                                                            £995.00 (Excl.Tax)