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Black Haircare - US - August 2019

Covered in this report

This report covers haircare products that are formulated specifically for or marketed to Black consumers, as well as general market haircare products that are purchased by Black consumers.

The market size includes the following categories:

  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner
  • Styling products including hair spray

Other categories of haircare products covered in this report are:

  • Relaxers
  • Home hair color

"The Black haircare market has evolved into regimen maintenance and styling, with chemical product use concentrated among the few who will always be customers. Having chemical-free hair is no longer the big story, but rather how Black consumers’ beliefs and perceptions of their hair impacts their personal maintenance, style choices and product selection."
- Toya Mitchell, Multicultural Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Market growth driven by regimen-focused products
  • Protective styles will be the next big thing
  • Moderate at-home haircare skills yield expected (but not fully satisfying) results

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
      • Executive Summary

        • Overview
          • The Black haircare market poised to grow to $2 billion on regimen alone
            • Regimen product overview
              • Figure 1: Estimated total expenditures and forecast, by Black consumers, by regimen segment, at current prices, 2014-24
            • Key takeaways
              • 1. Market growth driven by regimen-focused products
                • 2. Protective styles will be the next big thing
                  • 3. Moderate at-home haircare skills yield expected (but not fully satisfying) results
                    • The issues and opportunities
                      • Product collection use focused on conditioners and styling products
                        • Figure 2: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare regimen products, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                      • Natural hair is the norm, but protective styles evolve as a preferred style
                        • Figure 3: Hairstyles worn within the last year – females, by relaxed and protective styles, 2016-19
                      • Alternative, natural products are complicated to use
                        • Figure 4: Alternative haircare product use, June 2019
                      • Products work as expected because they are formulated just for them
                        • Figure 5: Haircare brand preferences, June 2019
                      • There is a gap between skill and confidence in their looks
                        • Figure 6: Haircare skills and perceptions of Hairstyles, June 2019
                      • What it means
                      • The Market – What You Need to Know

                        • Black consumers account for one out of five total haircare dollars spent
                          • Modest spending growth expected within regimen sales
                            • Haircare brand looks to impact policy
                              • Mainstream companies and retailers look to Black consumers to drive growth
                              • Market Size and Forecast

                                • Regimen focused collections drive the Black haircare market
                                  • Figure 7: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
                                  • Figure 8: Historical and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
                                • Black consumer regimen sales equal one fifth of the general market
                                  • Figure 9: regimen haircare expenditure estimate share by category, total and Black, 2018
                              • Market Breakdown

                                • Haircare regimen sales grow at a steady pace
                                  • Figure 10: Expenditures by Black consumers on haircare regimen products, by segment, at current prices, 2017-19
                                • Shampoo forecast reflects steady use of product collections
                                  • Figure 11: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2014-24
                                • Conditioner sales reflect treatment and styling use
                                  • Figure 12: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioners, at current prices, 2014-24
                                  • Figure 13: Cantu shea butter hair mask, 2019
                                • Styling forecast mixed – signals cannibalization from conditioners
                                  • Figure 14: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
                                • Hair color will have a market so long as consumers cover gray
                                  • Figure 15: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2014-24
                                • Relaxers sales continue to plummet to niche status
                                  • Figure 16: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2014-24
                              • Market Perspective

                                • Dove, politicians join forces to ban discrimination of natural hair
                                  • Figure 17: Dove Crown Act twitter advertising with influencer Ty Alexander, July 2019
                              • Market Factors

                                • Mainstream companies double down on Black haircare market with acquisitions and new products
                                  • Figure 18: Suave Naturals Twitter Advertising, May-June 2019
                                  • Figure 19: Head and Shoulders Royal Oils video, January-February 2019
                                  • Figure 20: Sally’s Beauty Supply/P&G My Black is Beautiful Facebook and online advertising, June 2019
                              • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                                • Consumer spending on anchor products grow
                                  • Shea Moisture retains 19% of consumer spending in the category
                                    • Cantu eclipses L’Oréal’s second place spot
                                      • All texture brands create a space and market for Black consumers
                                        • Alternative ingredients on brands’ and retailers’ radar
                                          • Increased prevalence of protective styles prompts product innovation
                                          • Black Haircare Company Manufacturer Sales

                                            • Anchor conditioner and styling products continue to grow
                                              • Figure 21: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare regimen products, by leading black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                            • At-home chemical haircare products fall as expected
                                              • Figure 22: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare relaxers and hair color, by leading black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                            • Shea Moisture is the clear sales leader, Cantu moves up to second place
                                              • Figure 23: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, Rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                              • Figure 24: SheaMoisture/Target Bamboo Charcoal collection, online banner ad, February 2019
                                              • Figure 25: SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Facebook ad, March 2019
                                            • Cantu product efficacy pays off in shampoo category
                                              • Figure 26: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                            • Spending on natural and traditional brands yield mixed results
                                              • Figure 27: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                              • Figure 28: Jamaican Mango & Lime advertising, January – February 2019
                                            • Cantu maintains styling category lead while new brand moves up to the big leagues
                                              • Figure 29: Multi-outlet sales of styling products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                            • All relaxer brands experience sales declines
                                              • Figure 30: Multi-outlet sales of relaxer products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                            • Covering gray hair remains popular – for now
                                              • Figure 31: Multi-outlet sales of hair color products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                          • What’s Working?

                                            • Brands move toward inclusive product offerings for all textures
                                              • Figure 32: Multi-outlet sales of select all texture haircare products, by companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                              • Figure 33: Maui Moisture video ad, May 2019
                                            • Black haircare influencers impact consumer behavior
                                              • Figure 34: Cantu instructional video, “My Long Lasting Twist-Out”, 2019
                                              • Figure 35: Cantu instructional video, “My Bomb Blowout”, 2019
                                          • What’s Struggling?

                                            • Traditional brands can’t shake off their relaxer heritage
                                            • What’s Next?

                                              • Retailers and brands offer natural product alternatives
                                                • Figure 36: Cantu Apple Cider Vinegar and Tea Tree Shampoo, February 2019
                                                • Figure 37: Revlon/Colomer – Creme of Nature Clay and Charcoal Facebook Advertising, July 2019
                                                • Figure 38: Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay in Target beauty section, March 2019
                                              • New product launches address natural haircare underneath protective styles
                                                • Figure 39: Hairstyles worn within the last year – females, by relaxed and protective styles, 2016-19
                                                • Figure 40: Girl+ Hair Introductory video to Under Hair Care, 2019
                                                • Figure 41: PDC Brands’ Cantu Apple Cider Vinegar Root Rinse, December 2018
                                            • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                              • Hairstyle preferences cause shift in consumer segments
                                                • Natural, textured style wearers have greater flexibility in their choices
                                                  • Alternative ingredient product use in nascent stage
                                                    • Black-targeted haircare products are preferred to ensure efficacy
                                                      • Most Black consumers can maintain their hair, but believe that they look presentable, not great
                                                      • Black Haircare Segments

                                                        • Growing importance of protective styles impact female segments
                                                          • Figure 42: Black female haircare segmentation, June 2019
                                                        • Natural Nina represents a small segment of natural women
                                                          • Figure 43: Demographic profile of Natural Nina haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • Trendy Tonya’s preference for protective styles is becoming the norm
                                                          • Figure 44: Demographic profile of Trendy Tonya haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • As Relaxed Regina ages, she prefers what’s familiar
                                                          • Figure 45: Demographic profile of Relaxed Regina haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • Image is everything for Adventurous Ashley
                                                          • Figure 46: Demographic profile of Adventurous Ashley haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • Men prefer simple, yet groomed styles
                                                          • Figure 47: Black male haircare segmentation, June 2019
                                                        • Handsome Henry stays groomed from head to toe
                                                          • Figure 48: Demographic profile of Handsome Henry haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • Stylish Steve wears varied styles just like his peers
                                                          • Figure 49: Demographic profile of Stylish Steve haircare segment, June 2019
                                                        • Classic Carl’s grooming extends only to natural products
                                                          • Figure 50: Demographic profile of Classic Carl haircare segment, June 2019
                                                      • Hair Texture

                                                        • Hair type helps Black women navigate the category
                                                          • Figure 51: Hair texture – females, June 2019
                                                        • Men are not as hair engaged as women
                                                          • Figure 52: Hair texture – males, June 2019
                                                      • Hairstyles Worn

                                                        • Natural is the standard, but styles within can vary
                                                          • Figure 53: Hairstyles worn within the last three years, June 2019
                                                        • Women stick to the same look, but will experiment with protective styles
                                                          • Figure 54: Hairstyles worn within the last three years – females, by last time worn, June 2019
                                                        • Young women more likely to alternate between natural and protective styles
                                                          • Figure 55: Hairstyles worn in the past three years, by female haircare segments, June 2019
                                                        • A simple low-cut fade is the style of choice for most men
                                                          • Figure 56: Hairstyles worn in the past three years, by male haircare segments, June 2019
                                                      • Alternative Haircare Product Usage

                                                        • Consumers looking for magic in the bottle turn to alternative products
                                                          • Figure 57: Alternative haircare product use, June 2019
                                                        • Protective styles require the most maintenance
                                                          • Figure 58: Alternative haircare product use – females, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
                                                        • Multi-functional natural products limited by difficulty in use
                                                          • Figure 59: Alternative haircare product use – females, by count of product types, June 2019
                                                        • Men keep it simple and stick to formulated products
                                                          • Figure 60: Alternative haircare product use – males, June 2019
                                                      • Haircare Brand Preferences

                                                        • Black consumers trust and use products made specifically for them
                                                          • Figure 61: Haircare brand preferences, June 2019
                                                          • Figure 62: Black haircare price points, 2014-19
                                                        • Product function is universal, but quality and performance tied to outcomes
                                                          • Figure 63: Haircare brand preferences, by female haircare segments, June 2019
                                                        • Engaged men trust that products will work with little regard to brands
                                                          • Figure 64: Haircare brand preferences, by male haircare segments, June 2019
                                                      • Haircare Skills and Experimentation

                                                        • Most women can create a presentable hairstyle on their own
                                                          • Figure 65: Haircare skills and experimentation frequency – females, June 2019
                                                        • Women stick to a familiar process, even if highly skilled
                                                          • Figure 66: Experimentation frequency – females, by haircare skills, 2019
                                                        • Most men wear a low-maintenance style that requires basic skills
                                                          • Figure 67: Haircare skills and experimentation frequency – males, June 2019
                                                      • Perceptions of Hairstyles

                                                        • Some look their best most of the time…others look presentable
                                                          • Figure 68: Perceptions of hairstyles, June 2019
                                                        • As women abandon relaxers, some remain self-conscious
                                                          • Figure 69: Perceptions of hairstyles – females, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
                                                        • Men with styled natural hair like the look, but express some self-doubt
                                                          • Figure 70: Perceptions on hairstyles – males, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
                                                        • Confidence tied to skill level and self-perception
                                                          • Figure 71: Perceptions of hairstyles, by female haircare segments, June 2019
                                                        • In their own words
                                                          • Figure 72: Personal hair styling “must have” products and tools, May 2019
                                                      • Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                        • Data sources
                                                          • Sales data
                                                            • Fan chart forecast
                                                              • Consumer survey data
                                                                • Consumer qualitative research
                                                                  • Abbreviations and terms
                                                                    • Abbreviations
                                                                      • Terms
                                                                      • Appendix – The Market

                                                                          • Figure 73: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 74: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 75: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, by segment, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 76: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2017 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 77: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 83: Expenditures of Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 84: Expenditures of Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2014-24
                                                                          • Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
                                                                      • Appendix – Key Players

                                                                          • Figure 87: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 88: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 89: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 90: Multi-outlet sales of styling products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 91: Multi-outlet sales of relaxers products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 92: Multi-outlet sales of hair color products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
                                                                          • Figure 93: Multi-outlet sales of select all texture haircare products, by companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019

                                                                      Black Haircare - US - August 2019

                                                                      £3,435.47 (Excl.Tax)