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Black Haircare - US - September 2018

"The Black haircare market has adjusted to the new natural hair normal. Product innovation, expanded retail distribution, and brand messaging recognize that the future of the Black haircare market is dependent on chemical-free consumers. While natural hair is the norm, Black consumers have different attitudes, beauty standards, and motivations behind their style and product choices."
- Toya Mitchell, Multicultural Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Multifunctional conditioners drive Black-targeted brand sales
  • Updated consumer segments show differences among natural consumers
  • Mainstream retailers expand product mix in store and online to attract Black shoppers
  • Black consumers want products that do it all
  • Looking beautiful is the goal, and consumers make different choices to achieve it

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Definition
      • Executive Summary

        • Overview
          • Figure 1: Estimated total expenditures and forecast, by Black consumers, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
        • The issues and opportunities
          • Multifunctional conditioners drive Black-targeted brand sales
            • Figure 2: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
          • Updated consumer segments show differences among natural consumers
            • Figure 3: Female and male Black haircare segments, July 2018
          • Mainstream retailers expand product mix in store and online to attract Black shoppers
            • Figure 4: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
          • Black consumers want products that do it all
            • Figure 5: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
          • Looking beautiful is the goal, and consumers make different choices to achieve it
            • Figure 6: Self-perceptions and attitudes toward hair, July 2018
          • What it means
          • The Market – What You Need to Know

            • Haircare sales estimates are flat vs year ago, still a tale of two consumers
              • Product collection sales demonstrate growing preference for targeted over mainstream brands
                • Relaxer sales expected to fall to hair color totals, cementing its niche status
                  • Unilever latest global brand to acquire a Black consumer targeted company
                  • Market Size and Forecast

                    • Flat sales and forecast reflect category shifts and retail expansion
                      • Figure 7: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
                      • Figure 8: Estimated expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
                  • Market Breakdown

                    • Haircare systems continue to grow among Black consumers
                      • Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products by segment, at current prices, 2016-18
                    • Shampoo sales signal increased competition between mainstream to Black haircare brands
                      • Figure 10: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
                      • Figure 11: Unilever/Suave video on Essence.com, June 2017-June 2018
                      • Figure 12: Garnier Whole Blends shampoo and conditioner, Essence Magazine July/August 2018 issue
                    • Conditioner expenditures reflect multifunctional use of targeted brands
                      • Figure 13: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
                    • Styling products still rule, but specific functionality drives usage
                      • Figure 14: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
                    • Disappearing brands – and consumers contribute to falling relaxer sales
                      • Figure 15: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
                    • Innovative looks drive increase in hair color – for now
                      • Figure 16: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
                  • Market Trends

                    • Natural haircare brands integrate into entertainment content
                    • Market Factors

                      • Unilever re-enters the Black haircare market with Sundial acquisition
                        • Figure 17: SheaMoisture Empower women :15 video, June 2017-June 2018
                    • Key Players – What You Need to Know

                      • Conditioners and styling products remain Black consumers’ favorites
                        • Sundial is the sales leader across basic maintenance segments
                          • L’Oréal brands experienced the greatest market share decline vs YA
                            • Cantu steady sales growth set to move up rank in market share
                              • E-commerce growing in importance for small brands and online retailers
                                • Small brands’ marketing efforts cannibalize sales from major players
                                • Black Haircare Company Manufacturer Sales

                                  • Products that treat and set hairstyles experience greatest growth
                                    • Figure 18: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • SheaMoisture remains the leading brand, but smaller players cannibalize sales
                                    • Figure 19: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • SheaMoisture leads shampoo category sales, but experiences share declines
                                    • Figure 20: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • Multi-functional conditioners that treat and style hair continue to grow
                                    • Figure 21: Carol’s Daughter online video featuring founder Lisa Price, June 2017-June 2018
                                    • Figure 22: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • Cantu’s new product introductions pay off in increased market share
                                    • Figure 23: Multi-outlet sales of styling products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                    • Figure 24: PDC/Cantu long-form video tutorials, July 2018-August 2018
                                  • Relaxer users turn to gentler formulas as a better for you alternative
                                    • Figure 25: Multi-outlet sales of relaxers, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • Vivid colors and gentler formulas drive hair color purchases
                                    • Figure 26: Multi-outlet sales of hair color, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                    • Figure 27: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Color Gloss video, June 2017-June 2018
                                    • Figure 28: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Go Intense video, June 2017-June 2018
                                • What’s Working?

                                  • E-commerce offers access to small brands with limited in-store distribution
                                    • Figure 29: Amazon.com Textures and Hues shop launch ad, Essence Magazine, April 2018
                                  • Sundial brands forms partnerships with small brands to reach grassroots beauty consumers
                                  • What’s Struggling?

                                    • Falling relaxer sales shutter brands
                                      • Figure 30: Multi-outlet sales of relaxer brands, by declining companies/brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                  • What’s Next?

                                    • Smaller players cannibalize sales from major brands
                                      • Figure 31: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by growing Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
                                      • Figure 32: Mielle Organics styling products and hair growth vitamins, 2018
                                      • Figure 33: Mielle Organics print ad featuring the founder, Monique Rodriguez, Essence magazine, September 2018
                                      • Figure 34: Curls styling products, 2017
                                      • Figure 35: Curls online display advertising, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch, July 2018-August 2018
                                      • Figure 36: Curls print ad, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch and featuring founder Mahisha Dellinger, Essence September 2018
                                      • Figure 37: The Mane Choice online display ad, June 2017-June 2018
                                    • Cannabis and hemp-infused products for natural hair
                                    • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                      • Updated haircare segmentation highlights differences among natural consumers
                                        • Natural consumers’ hair versatility allows them to experiment with more styles
                                          • Black women use an average of 4.5 haircare products at home
                                            • Expanded product selection in neighborhood stores lead to shopping location shifts
                                              • Multifunctional products preferred over style trends
                                                • Healthy hair is beautiful hair, but beauty standards and self-perception drive style and product choices
                                                • Black Haircare Consumer Segments

                                                    • Female haircare segments
                                                      • “Natural” definition and practice expands across Black women
                                                        • Figure 38: Black Female Haircare Segmentation, July 2018
                                                      • Situations that honor Natural Nina’s self-image and beliefs will foster engagement
                                                          • Figure 39: Demographic profile of Natural Nina segment, July 2018
                                                        • Trendy Tonya seeks styles that transform her look away from the ordinary
                                                            • Figure 40: Demographic Profile of Trendy Tonya segment, July 2018
                                                          • Relaxed Regina wants simple, everyday style that matches her conservative mindset
                                                              • Figure 41: Demographic profile of Relaxed Regina segment, July 2018
                                                            • Adventurous Ashley is willing and able to change her style at whim
                                                                • Figure 42: Demographic profile of Adventurous Ashley segment, July 2018
                                                              • Male haircare segments
                                                                • Most men opt for basic style, but maintenance and grooming vary by segment
                                                                  • Figure 43: Black male haircare segmentation, July 2018
                                                                • Handsome Henry’s style reflects his disposition toward decorum
                                                                    • Figure 44: Demographic profile of Handsome Henry segment, July 2018
                                                                  • Stylish Steve is willing to be daring in his looks
                                                                    • Figure 45: Demographic profile of Stylish Steve segment, July 2018
                                                                  • Classic Carl’s no-fuss approach requires little maintenance beyond ensuring hair health
                                                                      • Figure 46: Demographic profile of Classic Carl segment, July 2018
                                                                  • Black Hair Texture Categorization

                                                                    • Nearly half of Black consumers have coiled hair
                                                                      • Figure 47: Haircare texture categorization, July 2018
                                                                    • Fewer women relative to men report having zig-zag hair texture
                                                                      • Figure 48: Haircare texture categorization, by gender, July 2018
                                                                  • Hairstyles Worn Within the Past Year

                                                                    • Most consumers maintain a consistent look
                                                                      • Figure 49: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by anytime and current to past three months, July 2018
                                                                    • Young women crave variety in their hairstyles, mature women value consistency
                                                                      • Figure 50: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by female haircare segments, July 2018
                                                                    • Young men are adopting hairstyles outside of traditional fades
                                                                      • Figure 51: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by male haircare segment, July 2018
                                                                    • Natural hair wearers who regularly style their hair more open to all looks
                                                                      • Figure 52: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
                                                                    • Weave, wig, and braid styles protect natural hair underneath
                                                                        • Figure 53: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by non-natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
                                                                    • Haircare Product Usage at Home

                                                                      • Styling products offer brands the opportunity to differentiate
                                                                          • Figure 54: Haircare product usage at home, July 2018
                                                                        • Most women use at least five products to achieve her style
                                                                          • Figure 55: Count of haircare product usage at home, by gender, July 2018
                                                                        • Social media and influencers drive young women to use more product
                                                                          • Figure 56: Haircare product usage at home, by gender and age, July 2018
                                                                        • Natural hair wearers use the greatest number of products
                                                                          • Figure 57: Count of haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
                                                                          • Figure 58: Haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
                                                                      • Haircare Shopping Locations

                                                                        • Low prices and brand availability drive product purchase
                                                                            • Figure 59: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
                                                                            • Figure 60: SheaMoisture/local beauty supply Facebook display advertising, August 2018
                                                                          • Heavy product users drive loyalty to fewer shopping locations
                                                                              • Figure 61: Haircare shopping locations by number of products used, July 2018
                                                                            • Prevent style chasers from comparison shopping in multiple locations
                                                                                • Figure 62: Haircare shopping locations, by female segments, July 2018
                                                                            • Hair Self-Perceptions

                                                                              • Validate Black consumers’ state of mind when they feel they look their best
                                                                                  • Figure 63: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, any rank and top five out of eleven ranked by gender, July 2018
                                                                                • Amplify what drives women’s beauty through their hair
                                                                                    • Figure 64: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by female segments, July 2018
                                                                                  • Recognize Black men’s lifestage when showcasing their style
                                                                                    • Figure 65: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by male segments, July 2018
                                                                                • Haircare Trends of Interest

                                                                                  • Products that simultaneously treat and style most desired
                                                                                    • Figure 66: Word cloud of top three out of seven preferred functions in an ideal haircare product, August 2018
                                                                                    • Figure 67: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
                                                                                  • Young women more likely to experiment with styles, Gen Xers look for convenience
                                                                                    • Figure 68: Haircare trends of interest, by females and age group, July 2018
                                                                                  • Multifunctional products and collections are greens fees for testing hairstyle methods
                                                                                      • Figure 69: Haircare trends of interest, by female segment, July 2018
                                                                                    • Young men open to weaves to wear desired styles unachievable with their own hair
                                                                                      • Figure 70: Haircare trends of interest, by males and age group, July 2018
                                                                                  • Attitudes toward Hair

                                                                                    • Healthy hair mindset drives styling and product choices
                                                                                      • Figure 71: Attitudes toward hair, July 2018
                                                                                    • Being healthy is a lifestyle for some, and translates to styling differences among segments
                                                                                      • Figure 72: Attitudes toward hair, by female haircare segments, July 2018
                                                                                    • Easy, go-to hairstyles are equally important to maintaining health
                                                                                      • Figure 73: Attitudes toward hair, by male haircare segments, July 2018
                                                                                  • Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations

                                                                                    • Data sources
                                                                                      • Sales data
                                                                                        • Fan chart forecast
                                                                                          • Consumer survey data
                                                                                            • Consumer qualitative research
                                                                                              • Abbreviations and terms
                                                                                                • Abbreviations
                                                                                                  • Terms
                                                                                                  • Appendix – The Market

                                                                                                      • Figure 74: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 75: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at inflation adjusted prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 76: Estimated expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 77: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2016 and 2018
                                                                                                      • Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
                                                                                                      • Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23

                                                                                                  Black Haircare - US - September 2018

                                                                                                  US $4,395.00 (Excl.Tax)