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Clothing Retailing - Germany - October 2018

“Spending on clothing grew 6.6% in 2017, but there is huge variation in the performance of the specialist retailers as many of the long-established players continue to struggle to fully understand how the shopping habits and demands of their customers have changed in recent years.”
– Thomas Slide, Senior Retail Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Is the shift to online slowing?
  • Tackling environmental concerns to appeal to older shoppers

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: Germany: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2013-18
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 2: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers’ sales growth, 2013-18
            • Inflation
              • Channels of distribution
                • Figure 3: Germany: estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2017
              • Companies and brands
                • Leading specialists
                  • Figure 4: Germany: Annual sales growth of the leading specialist clothing retailers, 2017
                • Market shares
                  • Figure 5: Germany: Leading clothing retailers, sales as % of all spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-17
                • Online
                  • Figure 6: Germany: Online sales of clothing, 2014-17
                • The consumer
                  • Where they shop for clothes
                    • Figure 7: Germany: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, July 2018
                    • Figure 8: Germany: Retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, July 2018
                    • Figure 9: Germany: Non-specialists stores used for buying clothes, July 2018
                  • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                    • Figure 10: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                  • What we think
                  • Issues and Insights

                    • Is the shift to online slowing?
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Tackling environmental concerns to appeal to older shoppers
                            • The facts
                              • The implications
                              • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                • Market for clothing grows 6.6%
                                  • Clothing specialists grow sales 8.2% in 2017
                                    • Inflation hits 1.7% in 2017
                                      • Specialists dominate the clothing sector
                                      • Consumer Spending

                                            • Figure 11: Germany: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2014-18
                                        • Sector Size and Forecast

                                          • Strong growth at the specialists in 2017
                                            • Figure 12: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2014-18
                                            • Figure 13: Germany: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl VAT), 2018-23
                                        • Inflation

                                          • Inflation hits highest point in five years
                                            • Figure 14: Germany: Harmonised index of consumer prices, annual % change, 2013-17
                                            • Figure 15: Germany: Harmonised index of consumer prices, annual % change, Jan 2017–Aug 2018
                                        • Channels of Distribution

                                          • Specialists continue to dominate sales
                                            • Figure 16: Germany: estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2017
                                        • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                          • A mixed year for specialists
                                            • Number of outlets declines
                                              • H&M, the leading specialist
                                                • Online share of clothing spending stalls
                                                • Leading Players

                                                  • 2017 a mixed year for clothing specialists
                                                    • Esprit’s sales slide continues
                                                      • C&A brings in Alain Caparros
                                                        • Zalando leads growth and dips its toe in the physical world
                                                            • Figure 17: Zalando outlet, Cologne
                                                          • Charles Vögele brand disappears from Germany
                                                            • Figure 18: Germany: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2015-17
                                                            • Figure 19: Germany: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2015-17
                                                          • Sales per outlet
                                                            • Figure 20: Germany: Leading clothing specialists, sales per outlet, 2015-17
                                                        • Market Shares

                                                            • Figure 21: Germany: Leading specialist clothing retailers’ sales as % of all spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-17
                                                        • Online

                                                          • Online activity
                                                            • Shopping for clothing online
                                                              • Figure 22: Germany: Online purchasing, 2008-17
                                                            • Online share of clothing spending stalls
                                                              • 62% shop online
                                                                • Figure 23: Germany: Channels used for buying clothes, July 2018
                                                              • Leading online/catalogue sellers
                                                                • Figure 24: Germany: Where online/catalogue buyers shopped, July 2018
                                                              • H&M the most searched on Google
                                                                • Figure 25: Germany: Search interest on Google, last 12 months, September 2017-August 2018
                                                              • Otto Group the largest online retailer of clothing
                                                                • 31% are members of Amazon Prime
                                                                  • Zalando leads the specialists
                                                                    • Figure 26: Germany: Estimated online sales of clothing by major retailers, 2015-17
                                                                • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                  • 62% shopped online for clothing
                                                                    • C&A the most popular specialist
                                                                      • Amazon the dominant non-specialist
                                                                        • Environmental concerns influence choice of retailer
                                                                          • Young people made to feel self-conscious by fashion campaigns
                                                                          • Where they Shop for Clothes

                                                                            • Two-thirds have shopped online for clothing
                                                                              • Figure 27: Germany: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, July 2018
                                                                            • Online buying reaches across the age groups
                                                                              • Figure 28: Germany: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, by age group, July 2018
                                                                            • C&A leads the pack
                                                                              • Online specialists becoming significant specialists
                                                                                • Figure 29: Germany: Retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, July 2018
                                                                              • Customer profiles offer few surprises
                                                                                • Figure 30: Germany: Where they shop for clothing, by average age and household income, July 2018
                                                                              • Amazon is the dominant non-specialist
                                                                                • Troubles at the department stores
                                                                                  • Supermarkets account for a small share of purchases
                                                                                    • Figure 31: Germany: Non-specialist stores used to shop for clothing, July 2018
                                                                                  • Store-based specialists continue to dominate the market
                                                                                    • Figure 32: Germany: Stores used to shop for clothing, combined nets, July 2018
                                                                                • Attitudes to Shopping For Clothes

                                                                                  • Shoppers driven by environmental concerns
                                                                                    • Figure 33: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                                                                                  • A lack of loyalty
                                                                                    • Figure 34: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                                                                                  • Research and inspiration
                                                                                    • Figure 35: Germany: Selected attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                                                                                  • Over a third of 16-24 year olds made to feel self-conscious
                                                                                    • Figure 36: Germany: “Fashion campaigns make me feel self-conscious about the way I look”, by age group, July 2018
                                                                                  • Attitudes by specialist retailer used
                                                                                    • Figure 37: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by where they shopped in the last 12 months: specialists, July 2018
                                                                                  • Attitudes by non-specialist used
                                                                                    • Figure 38: Germany: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by where they shopped in the last 12 months: non-specialists, July 2018
                                                                                • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                  • Abbreviations
                                                                                    • Data sources
                                                                                    • C&A

                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                          • Playing the sustainability card
                                                                                            • Digital presents best opportunity for growth
                                                                                              • Store overhauls show potential
                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                    • Figure 39: C&A: Group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                    • Figure 40: C&A: Outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                  • Esprit

                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                        • Apparent failure of turnaround plan brings future of group into question
                                                                                                          • Downsizing process needs to continue but product and brand identity must improve
                                                                                                            • Online still not firing on all cylinders but product to blame?
                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                  • Figure 41: Esprit: Group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                  • Figure 42: Esprit: Outlet* data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • A new fascia joins the stable
                                                                                                                        • Technology enhancing the customer experience
                                                                                                                          • A first in pet streetwear
                                                                                                                            • Localisation
                                                                                                                              • Making fashion circular
                                                                                                                                • COS expansion into China
                                                                                                                                  • Company background
                                                                                                                                    • Company performance
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 43: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 44: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                    • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                    • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                                        • What we think
                                                                                                                                          • Online
                                                                                                                                            • Where next
                                                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 45: Grupo Inditex, sales and outlets by format, 2017
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 46: Grupo Inditex, performance by brand, 2016-17
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 47: Grupo Inditex: group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                  • Figure 48: Grupo Inditex: outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                • KiK

                                                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                                                      • KiK WhatsApp
                                                                                                                                                        • Advance of KiK17 store concept
                                                                                                                                                          • Halts US expansion plans to focus on Europe
                                                                                                                                                            • Bolstering multichannel proposition
                                                                                                                                                              • Corporate social responsibility commitment
                                                                                                                                                                • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                  • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: KiK: Group sales performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: KiK: Outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                  • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                  • Primark

                                                                                                                                                                      • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                        • Europe to remain focus of expansion
                                                                                                                                                                          • Can Primark continue without an e-commerce presence?
                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 51: Primark/Penneys: group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 52: Primark/Penneys: outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                              • TJX International (TK Maxx Europe)

                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Store openings pushing ahead
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Threat from online competitors?
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 53: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 54: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Expanding brand partnership scheme
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Driving out friction in delivery, returns and payments
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Working towards delivering a truly personalised on-site experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Head-to-toe fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Conversational commerce to tackle customer pain points
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Dealing with excess and unwanted stock in a non-wasteful manner
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Zalando: group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 56: Zalando: key metrics, 2016-H1 2018
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                              Clothing Retailing - Germany - October 2018

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