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Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2018

“Italy is the largest of the four big European markets (eg France, Germany, Italy, Spain) in terms of per capita spend on clothing and footwear. However, in the past few years, growth in spending has stalled, and it is clear that the underdeveloped nature of the online channel has contributed to this because retailers’ low levels of online sales are barely compensating for weaker sales in physical stores. With some of the highest levels of smartphone ownership in Europe, the opportunity is ripe for clothing retailers to increase their focus on exploiting the potential offered to them by m-commerce by adopting a mobile first strategy to really drive online sales growth. Retailers also need to look at how they can move away from a relentless focus on low prices and constant discounting. Tapping into consumer demand for more sustainable products is one way in which they can do this.”
– Michael Oliver, Senior European Retail Analyst

This report looks at the following areas:

  • Growing interest in sustainability presents opportunity to differentiate
  • High smartphone ownership levels point way to online growth

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: Italy: Annual percentage change in consumer spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-18
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 2: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers’ sales (excl. VAT), 2013-18
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 3: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2018
            • Companies and brands
              • Leading players
                • Market shares
                  • Figure 4: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers’ sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2017
                • Online
                  • The consumer
                    • Where they shop for clothes
                      • Figure 5: Italy: Where clothes have been bought – in-store vs online, July 2018
                      • Figure 6: Italy: Where clothes have been bought – in-store or online, by retailer, July 2018
                    • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                      • Figure 7: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                      • Growing interest in sustainability presents opportunity to differentiate
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • High smartphone ownership levels point way to online growth
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                  • Spending yet to recover to pre-recession levels
                                    • Inflation returns to positive territory
                                      • Retailer confidence has dipped sharply
                                        • Clothing specialists sales flat and 2017 and set to fall
                                          • Specialists hold their ground
                                          • Consumer Spending

                                            • Spending yet to recover to pre-recession levels
                                                • Figure 8: Italy: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2013-18
                                              • Retailer confidence has dipped sharply
                                                  • Figure 9: Italy: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, October 2017-September 2018
                                              • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                • Clothing specialists sales flat and 2017 and set to fall
                                                  • Figure 10: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2013-18
                                                  • Figure 11: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2018-23
                                              • Inflation

                                                  • Figure 12: Italy: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, annual % change, 2013-17
                                                  • Figure 13: Italy: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, annual % change, Jan 2017 –Aug 2018
                                              • Channels of Distribution

                                                  • Specialists hold their ground
                                                    • Figure 14: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear, 2018
                                                • Leading Players – What You Need to Know

                                                  • A fragmented but fast evolving market
                                                    • OVS is market leader but Inditex is closing in
                                                      • Gruppo Teddy – a home-grown success story
                                                        • Leading specialists grow share…but from low base
                                                          • Online growth continues
                                                          • Leading Players

                                                            • A fragmented but fast evolving market
                                                              • Fast fashion gains ground
                                                                • OVS fights to maintain leading position
                                                                  • Inditex closes in
                                                                    • Gruppo Teddy – a home-grown success story
                                                                      • Other players
                                                                        • Figure 15: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2013-17
                                                                        • Figure 16: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2013-17
                                                                      • Sales per outlet
                                                                        • Figure 17: Italy: Leading clothing retailers, Sales per outlet, 2013-17
                                                                    • Market Shares

                                                                        • Figure 18: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2013-17
                                                                    • Online

                                                                      • Online activity
                                                                        • Shopping for clothing online
                                                                          • Figure 19: Italy: Online purchasing, 2008-17
                                                                        • Online market size
                                                                          • Leading online players
                                                                            • Figure 20: Italy Where people shopped for clothing online/by catalogue in the past 12 months, July 2018
                                                                            • Figure 21: Italy: Leading retailers’ estimated online sales of clothing, 2017
                                                                        • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                          • Stores the dominant channel of distribution
                                                                            • OVS is the leading specialist
                                                                              • Italian shoppers look for breadth of range
                                                                                • Italian clothes buyers compare prices
                                                                                  • Social media still just for the young
                                                                                  • Where they Shop for Clothes

                                                                                      • In-store vs online
                                                                                        • Figure 22: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, July 2018
                                                                                      • Retailers bought from
                                                                                        • Figure 23: Italy: Retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, July 2018
                                                                                        • Figure 24: Italy: Customer profile by clothes retailers shopped, July 2018
                                                                                      • Online vs in-store by retailer
                                                                                        • Figure 25: Italy: proportion of shoppers who shop in-store and not online for clothes by retailer, July 2018
                                                                                    • Attitudes to Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                        • Figure 26: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, July 2018
                                                                                      • Online vs in-store shoppers
                                                                                        • Figure 27: Italy: Agreement with attitude statements about shopping for clothes, online vs in-store shoppers, July 2018
                                                                                      • Attitudes by retailer used
                                                                                        • Prices
                                                                                          • Figure 28: Italy: Attitude to comparing prices by retailer bought from, July 2018
                                                                                        • Social media
                                                                                          • Figure 29: Spain: Attitude to social media by retailer bought from, July 2018
                                                                                        • Environmental concerns
                                                                                          • Figure 30: Spain: Attitude to environment al impact by retailer used, July 2018
                                                                                        • Fashion magazines
                                                                                          • Figure 31: Spain: Attitude to fashion/style magazines by retailer used, July 2018
                                                                                      • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                        • Abbreviations
                                                                                          • Data sources
                                                                                          • C&A

                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                • Playing the sustainability card
                                                                                                  • Digital presents best opportunity for growth
                                                                                                    • Store overhauls show potential
                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                          • Figure 32: C&A: Group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                          • Figure 33: C&A: Outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                        • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                              • A new fascia joins the stable
                                                                                                                • Technology enhancing the customer experience
                                                                                                                  • A first in pet streetwear
                                                                                                                    • Localisation
                                                                                                                      • Making fashion circular
                                                                                                                        • COS expansion into China
                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                              • Figure 34: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                              • Figure 35: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                            • Retail offering
                                                                                                                            • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                                • What we think
                                                                                                                                  • Online
                                                                                                                                    • Where next
                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 36: Grupo Inditex, sales and outlets by format, 2017
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 37: Grupo Inditex, performance by brand, 2016-17
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 38: Grupo Inditex: group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 39: Grupo Inditex: outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                        • Kiabi

                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                              • A bold vision for growth
                                                                                                                                                • International expansion is a major focus
                                                                                                                                                  • Using technology to improve the in-store customer experience
                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 40: Kiabi: Group financial performance, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 41: Kiabi: Outlet data, 2012/13-2016/17
                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                      • OVS Group

                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                            • Accelerating the development of e-commerce
                                                                                                                                                              • Focusing on store traffic and like-for-like sales growth
                                                                                                                                                                • Embracing the use of social media influencers
                                                                                                                                                                  • Pushing corporate social responsibility and sustainability credentials
                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 42: OVS Group: Group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 43: OVS Group: Outlet data, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                      • YNAP Group

                                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                            • Richemont takeover completed
                                                                                                                                                                              • YNAP focuses on m-commerce…
                                                                                                                                                                                • …and expands product range
                                                                                                                                                                                  • Sustainability commitments
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Figure 44: YNAP group: group financial performance, 2014-17
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                                                          • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Expanding brand partnership scheme
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Driving out friction in delivery, returns and payments
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Working towards delivering a truly personalised on-site experience
                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Head-to-toe fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Conversational commerce to tackle customer pain points
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Dealing with excess and unwanted stock in a non-wasteful manner
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 45: Zalando: group financial performance, 2013-17
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Figure 46: Zalando: key metrics, 2016-H1 2018
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                          Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2018

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