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Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2019

“Although they still account for around two-thirds of all spending on clothing and footwear, specialist clothing retailers in Italy are facing a sustained onslaught from a range of sources: rivals discounting excess stock, sports goods retailers capitalising on the trend towards casualisation and the popularity of athleisurewear, online retailers (both specialist and generalist) chipping away at their core business and unpredictable weather patterns which are turning the buying of stock into something of a lottery. At the same time they are trying to adjust their business models to take into account the need to sell more online and to become more sustainable and responsible. It’s no surprise some are struggling to come to terms with such a bewildering array of challenges.”

- Michael Oliver, Senior European Retail Analyst

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Areas covered in this report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Consumer spending
              • Figure 1: Italy: Annual percentage change in consumer spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-19
            • Sector size and forecast
              • Figure 2: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers’ sales (excl. VAT), 2014-19
            • Channels of distribution
              • Figure 3: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
            • Companies and brands
              • Leading players
                • Market shares
                  • Figure 4: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers’ sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2018
                • Online
                  • The consumer
                    • Where they shop for clothes
                      • Figure 5: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, June 2019
                      • Figure 6: Italy: Retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2019
                    • Attitudes to shopping for clothes
                      • Figure 7: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, June 2019
                    • What we think
                    • Issues and Insights

                      • Lines between stores and online are blurring but stores are still pivotal
                        • The facts
                          • The implications
                            • Sustainability rises up the agenda but will Italian shoppers pay more?
                              • The facts
                                • The implications
                                • The Market – What You Need to Know

                                  • Spending on clothing grows in 2018
                                    • Retailer confidence shows signs of recovery
                                      • Specialist retailers reel under onslaught from online and weather
                                        • Inflation returns after deflationary spiral is avoided
                                          • Specialists gradually losing share but still dominant
                                          • Consumer Spending

                                                • Figure 8: Italy: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2014-19
                                            • Retailer and Consumer Confidence

                                                  • Figure 9: Italy: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, October 2018-September 2019
                                              • Sector Size and Forecast

                                                  • Figure 10: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2014-19
                                                  • Figure 11: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2020-24
                                                • Inflation
                                                  • Figure 12: Italy: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, annual % change, 2014-18
                                                  • Figure 13: Italy: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, annual % change, January 2018 –August 2019
                                              • Channels of Distribution

                                                  • Specialists gradually losing share but still dominant
                                                    • Figure 14: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2018
                                                • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                                  • OVS maintains market leadership
                                                    • Inditex bucks the trend
                                                      • Calzedonia shifts focus to international markets
                                                        • H&M drops back
                                                          • OVS still leader but market share declines
                                                            • Italy online sales still underdeveloped
                                                            • Leading Players

                                                              • OVS maintains market leadership
                                                                • Inditex bucks the trend
                                                                  • Calzedonia shifts focus to international markets
                                                                    • H&M drops back
                                                                      • Other players
                                                                        • Figure 15: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2014-18
                                                                        • Figure 16: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2014-18
                                                                        • Figure 17: Italy: Leading clothing retailers, Sales per outlet, 2014-18
                                                                    • Market Shares

                                                                        • Figure 18: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2014-18
                                                                    • Online

                                                                      • Online activity
                                                                        • Figure 19: Italy: Household penetration of broadband internet, 2009-18
                                                                      • Shopping for clothing online
                                                                        • Figure 20: Figure 19: Italy: Online purchasing in the last 12 months, 2009-18
                                                                      • Online market size
                                                                        • Leading online players
                                                                          • Figure 21: Italy Where people shopped for clothing online/by catalogue in the past 12 months, June 2019
                                                                        • Bonprix
                                                                          • Zalando
                                                                            • Amazon
                                                                              • Other players
                                                                                • Figure 22: Italy: Leading retailers’ estimated online sales of clothing, 2018
                                                                            • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                              • Shift towards buying online continues but in-store still dominant
                                                                                • Just over half only buy in-store
                                                                                  • Specialists most popular retailer type but sports retailers also prominent
                                                                                    • OVS leads the way
                                                                                      • Customers value the experience when clothes shopping
                                                                                        • Not just about fast fashion
                                                                                        • Where They Shop for Clothes

                                                                                          • In-store vs online
                                                                                            • Figure 23: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, June 2019
                                                                                            • Figure 24: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, June 2019
                                                                                            • Figure 25: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, by age group, June 2019
                                                                                          • Retailers bought from
                                                                                            • Figure 26: Italy: Retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2019
                                                                                            • Figure 27: Italy: Comparison of retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, by age group, June 2019
                                                                                            • Figure 28: Italy: Customer profile by clothing specialist shopped at, by age and income, June 2019
                                                                                            • Figure 29: Italy: Retailers used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, by clothes buyers who shop in-store only, June 2019
                                                                                        • Attitudes to Shopping for Clothes

                                                                                          • Experience is important
                                                                                            • Clothes offer opportunity for personal expression
                                                                                              • Not just about fast fashion
                                                                                                • Figure 30: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, June 2019
                                                                                                • Figure 31: Italy: Attitudes to shopping for clothes, by retailers bought at in the past 12 months, June 2019
                                                                                            • Appendix – Data sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                              • Abbreviations
                                                                                                • Data sources
                                                                                                • C&A

                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                      • Making up for lost time online
                                                                                                        • Partnering with other brands
                                                                                                          • Changes in management
                                                                                                            • C&A continues to focus on sustainability
                                                                                                              • Company background
                                                                                                                • Company performance
                                                                                                                  • Figure 32: C&A: Group financial performance, 2013/14 – 2018/19
                                                                                                                  • Figure 33: C&A: Outlet data, 2013/14 – 2018/19
                                                                                                                • Retail offering
                                                                                                                • Grupo Inditex

                                                                                                                    • What we think
                                                                                                                      • Growth from a combination of online and offline channels
                                                                                                                        • Diversification and dedicated content on social channels
                                                                                                                          • Inditex’s new strategy focuses on sustainability
                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                • Figure 34: Grupo Inditex: sales and outlets by format, 2018/19
                                                                                                                                • Figure 35: Grupo Inditex, performance by brand, 2017-19
                                                                                                                                • Figure 36: Grupo Inditex: group financial performance, 2013/14-2018/19
                                                                                                                                • Figure 37: Grupo Inditex: outlet data, 2013/14-2018/19
                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                              • H&M Hennes & Mauritz

                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                    • Digital
                                                                                                                                      • Store development
                                                                                                                                        • Company background
                                                                                                                                          • Company performance
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 38: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: group financial performance, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                            • Figure 39: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: outlet data, 2013/14-2017/18
                                                                                                                                          • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                          • Kiabi

                                                                                                                                              • What we think
                                                                                                                                                • Developing a dynamic in-store experience
                                                                                                                                                  • Expanded online reach and enhanced mobile shopping experience
                                                                                                                                                    • 100% eco-friendly fashion
                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 40: Kiabi: Estimated European financial performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 41: Kiabi: Estimated European Outlet data, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                        • OVS group

                                                                                                                                                            • What we think
                                                                                                                                                              • Refurbished stores delivering increased like-for-like sales growth
                                                                                                                                                                • Accelerated store digitisation making the shopping experience quicker and more convenient
                                                                                                                                                                  • More ways to buy Upim and Blukids
                                                                                                                                                                    • Expanded product offering
                                                                                                                                                                      • Shop-in-shop opportunities
                                                                                                                                                                        • Eco-friendlier denim
                                                                                                                                                                          • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                            • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 42: OVS group: Group financial performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 43: OVS group: Outlet performance, 2014-18
                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                              • YNAP group

                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                    • YNAP gives a much needed boost to Richemont’s online presence
                                                                                                                                                                                      • Increased co-operation with other brands in the Richemont family
                                                                                                                                                                                        • Customer service enhancements focus on personalisation
                                                                                                                                                                                          • Where now?
                                                                                                                                                                                            • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                • Figure 44: YNAP group: Group financial performance, 2013/14-2018/19
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Retail offering
                                                                                                                                                                                              • Zalando

                                                                                                                                                                                                  • What we think
                                                                                                                                                                                                    • Selling more products, slower revenue growth
                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Zalando continues to succeed by combining online and offline
                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Zalando’s circular fashion joins the physical world
                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Zalando expands beauty range to five new markets
                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Average basket size is still decreasing
                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Zalando Plus loyalty scheme expanded
                                                                                                                                                                                                                • Zalando trials robots for customer orders
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • Moving away from own brands
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • What next?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • Company background
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Company performance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 45: Zalando: group financial performance, 2013-18
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Figure 46: Zalando: key metrics, 2016-H1 2019
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Retail offering

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Clothing Retailing - Italy - October 2019

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        £995.00 (Excl.Tax)