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Colour Cosmetics - UK - May 2019

Covered in this report

For the purposes of this report, Mintel has used the following definitions:

  • Face makeup: foundation, concealer, face powder, BB/CC cream, tinted moisturiser, blusher, bronzer, primer, highlighter, colour correctors, contouring products.
  • Eye makeup: mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, eyebrow products, false eyelashes.
  • Lip makeup: lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, tinted lip balm.
  • Nail makeup: nail polish, gel/UV nail polish, false nails.

Within this report, we also discuss base colour and point colour makeup. Base makeup refers to products for the face that create an even cover for the skin; primarily foundation, concealer, BB/ CC creams and face powder. By contrast, point colour refers to makeup products that are designed to draw attention to specific areas, such as eye, lip and nail makeup.

Nail care products (eg cuticle cream, buffers and French manicure) are excluded. Body glitter products and instant tanning products are also outside the scope of this report.

“Value growth of colour cosmetics slowed down in 2018 as women showed evidence of reducing spend by purchasing products less frequently. Whilst the category remains an experimental one, lower-priced mass-market and budget brands are being used to experiment particularly in colour makeup, keeping the overall value down. With high interest in brands that have a cruelty-free as well as natural positioning, brands can encourage purchase by offering a more holistic proposition that benefits both the consumer and the planet.”
– Roshida Khanom, Associate Director BPC

This Report looks at the following areas:

  • Brands need to offer more
  • Driving experimentation using price and online presence

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Products covered in this Report
      • Executive Summary

          • The market
            • Category value growth slows
              • Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast of UK retail value sales of colour cosmetics, 2013-23
            • Companies and brands
              • Strong rise in NPD in 2018
                • Figure 2: New product development in the colour cosmetics category, by sub-category, January 2016-March 2019
              • NPD drives value sales of brands
                • Figure 3: Manufacturer shares in the UK colour cosmetics market, 2018
              • The consumer
                • Purchase of primer is up
                  • Figure 4: Purchase of base makeup, March 2019
                • Purchase of eyeliner pencil declines
                  • Figure 5: Purchase of face colour makeup, March 2019
                • Nail colour purchase declines
                  • Figure 6: Purchase of nail colour, March 2019
                • Mass-market and budget brands are favoured when it comes to colour
                  • Figure 7: Preferred colour cosmetics brands, March 2019
                • More women are spending less
                  • Figure 8: Changes in purchase of makeup in the last 12 months, March 2019
                • Frequency of purchase may be down
                  • Figure 9: Colour cosmetics buying behaviours, March 2019
                • Cruelty-free trumps vegan
                  • Figure 10: Desired product qualities in colour cosmetics, March 2019
                • Good for me and good for the environment
                  • Figure 11: TURF Analysis – Colour cosmetics, March 2019
                • What we think
                • Issues and Insights

                  • Brands need to offer more
                    • The facts
                      • The implications
                        • Driving experimentation using price and online presence
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                            • The Market – What You Need to Know

                              • Growth in the category slows down
                                • Face and eyes fare well
                                  • Online channel sees strong growth
                                    • Rise in teens could boost the market
                                      • Speedy routines are essential
                                        • Skin health could impact colour cosmetics
                                        • Market Size and Forecast

                                          • Growth slows down
                                            • Figure 12: UK retail value sales of colour cosmetics, at current and constant prices, 2013-23
                                          • Steady growth expected
                                            • Figure 13: Best- and worst-case forecast of UK retail value sales of colour cosmetics, 2013-23
                                          • Forecast methodology
                                          • Market Segmentation

                                            • NPD drives face and eye segments
                                              • Figure 14: UK retail value sales of colour cosmetics, by sector, 2017 and 2018
                                            • Lip segment stalls
                                              • Mass and prestige sectors see similar growth
                                                • Figure 15: Mass-market and prestige sales of colour cosmetics, 2017 and 2018
                                            • Channels to Market

                                              • Online channel sees strong growth
                                                • Figure 16: UK retail value sales of colour cosmetics, by outlet type, 2017 and 2018
                                              • Department stores could struggle
                                                • Figure 17: Pat McGrath Labs at Selfridges, April 2019
                                              • High street retailers and grocers compete for beauty consumers
                                                • Figure 18: Boots’ new beauty proposition, March 2019
                                            • Market Drivers

                                              • Drive up the fun quotient for teens
                                                • Figure 19: Trends in the age structure of the UK female population, 2013-23
                                              • Speedy application is important
                                                • Figure 20: Time spent on morning beauty and grooming routines, by women who apply makeup daily, February 2019
                                              • Clean beauty shifts focus to the environment
                                                • Empowering campaigns continue to resonate
                                                  • High street retailers court beauty shoppers
                                                    • Skin health could impact colour cosmetics
                                                      • Promote the traditional expert
                                                      • Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know

                                                        • Leading companies see slowdown in growth
                                                          • Convenience and long lasting feature in NPD
                                                            • Diversity as a theme in NPD
                                                              • Digital campaigns see a rise
                                                                • Brands target younger women
                                                                  • Premium brands are considered high quality
                                                                  • Market Share

                                                                    • NPD benefits L’Oréal
                                                                      • Figure 21: Manufacturer shares in the UK colour cosmetics market, 2017 and 2018
                                                                    • Estée Lauder sees strong value sales
                                                                    • Launch Activity and Innovation

                                                                      • Face products see NPD with long-lasting propositions
                                                                        • Figure 22: New product development in the colour cosmetics category, by sub-category, January 2016-March 2019
                                                                        • Figure 23: Examples of primer launches, January-April 2019
                                                                        • Figure 24: Examples of setting powder launches in 2018
                                                                      • Multi-use products see a rise
                                                                        • Range extensions see a rise
                                                                          • Figure 25: Product development in the colour cosmetics category, by launch type, January 2016-March 2019
                                                                        • 2018 sees refillable lip products
                                                                          • Figure 26: Refillable lipsticks/lipstick refills, January-April 2019
                                                                        • Boosting the fun element
                                                                          • Figure 27: ASOS x Crayola Beauty, 2018
                                                                          • Figure 28: Examples of colour-changing lipstick launches, 2018
                                                                        • Convenience claims see a rise
                                                                          • Figure 29: Top claims in the colour cosmetics category in 2018, 2017 and 2018
                                                                          • Figure 30: Magnetic lash launches, 2018
                                                                        • Cosmetics with benefits
                                                                          • Brands continue to diversify in 2018
                                                                            • Figure 31: New product development in the colour cosmetics category by top ultimate companies and other, 2018
                                                                          • Low-priced brands innovate
                                                                            • 2019 will see more luxury brands
                                                                            • Start-ups and Disruptors Case Study – Disco Dust

                                                                              • Company overview
                                                                                • What is it?
                                                                                  • Figure 32: Disco dust, April 2019
                                                                                • Founded:
                                                                                  • Company mission statement:
                                                                                    • Founder’s story:
                                                                                      • Sources of funding and support
                                                                                        • Mintel analyst view
                                                                                          • Mintel Trends
                                                                                            • Why it could succeed
                                                                                              • Why it could fail
                                                                                                • The verdict
                                                                                                  • The product
                                                                                                    • Figure 33: Sample of Disco Dust product listing, April 2019
                                                                                                    • Figure 34: Sample of Disco Dust launches, April 2019
                                                                                                  • Product stockists
                                                                                                    • Media profile
                                                                                                      • Social media metrics
                                                                                                        • Figure 35: Social media metrics for Disco Dust as of April 2019
                                                                                                    • Advertising and Marketing Activity

                                                                                                      • Digital advertising sees a boost
                                                                                                        • Figure 36: Total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on colour cosmetics, by media type, January 2016-March 2019
                                                                                                        • Figure 37: Gucci beauty Instagram, September 2018
                                                                                                      • L’Oréal continues tech investment
                                                                                                        • Figure 38: NYX Professional Facebook AR advert, August 2018
                                                                                                      • Maybelline appeals to younger shoppers
                                                                                                        • Figure 39: Total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on colour cosmetics, by top manufacturers in 2018
                                                                                                      • Rimmel launches anti-bullying campaign
                                                                                                        • Diversity continues in advertising
                                                                                                          • Avon looks to modernise
                                                                                                            • Nielsen Ad Intel coverage
                                                                                                            • Brand Research

                                                                                                                • Brand map
                                                                                                                  • Figure 40: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, April 2019
                                                                                                                • Key brand metrics
                                                                                                                  • Figure 41: Key metrics for selected brands, April 2019
                                                                                                                • Brand attitudes: premium brands are associated with quality
                                                                                                                  • Figure 42: Attitudes, by brand, April 2019
                                                                                                                • Brand personality: mass-market brands score well for fun
                                                                                                                  • Figure 43: Brand personality – Macro image, April 2019
                                                                                                                • Budget brands are considered basic
                                                                                                                  • Figure 44: Brand personality – Micro image, April 2019
                                                                                                                • Brand analysis
                                                                                                                  • Boots No7 has a strong heritage
                                                                                                                    • Figure 45: User profile of Boots No7, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Lancôme risks being old-fashioned
                                                                                                                    • Figure 46: User profile of Lancôme, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • L’Oréal Paris is innovative
                                                                                                                    • Figure 47: User profile of L’Oréal Paris, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Estée Lauder is indulgent
                                                                                                                    • Figure 48: User profile of Estée Lauder, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Bobbi Brown risks being overhyped
                                                                                                                    • Figure 49: User profile of Bobbi Brown, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Charlotte Tilbury appeals to young women
                                                                                                                    • Figure 50: User profile of Charlotte Tilbury, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Primark PS… appeals to women on all incomes
                                                                                                                    • Figure 51: User profile of Primark PS…, April 2019
                                                                                                                  • Covergirl has low usage
                                                                                                                    • Figure 52: User profile of Covergirl, April 2019
                                                                                                                • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                                                                                                  • Purchase of makeup shows little change
                                                                                                                    • Premium brands are preferred for face market
                                                                                                                      • Spend shows evidence of decline
                                                                                                                        • Frequency of purchase may be down
                                                                                                                          • Cruelty-free claims are more important than vegan claims
                                                                                                                            • Good for me and good for the environment
                                                                                                                            • Purchase of Face Makeup

                                                                                                                              • Primer purchase is on the rise
                                                                                                                                • Figure 53: Purchase of base makeup, 2017-19
                                                                                                                              • Highlighter is favoured
                                                                                                                                • Figure 54: Purchase of face colour makeup, 2017-19
                                                                                                                            • Purchase of Colour Makeup

                                                                                                                              • Purchase of eyeliner pencil falls since 2017
                                                                                                                                • Figure 55: Purchase of eye makeup, 2017-19
                                                                                                                                • Figure 56: Purchase of eyeliner and eyeshadow amongst 16-24s, 2017 and 2019
                                                                                                                              • Lip gloss continues to gain popularity
                                                                                                                                • Figure 57: Purchase of lip colour, 2017-19
                                                                                                                              • Decline in purchase of nail colour
                                                                                                                                • Figure 58: Purchase of nail colour, 2018 and 2019
                                                                                                                            • Preferred Makeup Brands

                                                                                                                              • Premium brands are popular for face makeup
                                                                                                                                • Figure 59: Preferred colour cosmetics brands, March 2019
                                                                                                                              • Experimenting with eyeshadow
                                                                                                                                • Figure 60: Preferred brand types for eye makeup, by purchase of eyeshadow, March 2019
                                                                                                                              • Budget brands are democratising beauty
                                                                                                                                • Figure 61: Preference of budget makeup brands, by socio-economic group, March 2019
                                                                                                                            • Makeup Buying Behaviours

                                                                                                                              • Women are reducing their spend
                                                                                                                                • Figure 62: Changes in purchase of makeup in the last 12 months, March 2019
                                                                                                                              • Increased spend on colour
                                                                                                                                • Why try before buying?
                                                                                                                                  • Figure 63: Colour cosmetics buying behaviours, March 2019
                                                                                                                                • Frequency of purchase declines
                                                                                                                                  • Young women are experimenting
                                                                                                                                  • Desired Product Qualities

                                                                                                                                    • Cruelty-free trumps vegan
                                                                                                                                      • Figure 64: Desired product qualities in colour cosmetics, March 2019
                                                                                                                                    • Ingredients are important
                                                                                                                                      • Customised base makeup is desired
                                                                                                                                        • Combine cruelty-free with natural ingredients
                                                                                                                                          • Figure 65: TURF Analysis – Colour cosmetics, March 2019
                                                                                                                                        • Good for me and good for the environment
                                                                                                                                        • Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

                                                                                                                                            • Abbreviations
                                                                                                                                              • Forecast methodology
                                                                                                                                                • Consumer research methodology
                                                                                                                                                  • TURF – Methodology
                                                                                                                                                    • Figure 66: Table – TURF Analysis – Colour cosmetics, March 2019

                                                                                                                                                Colour Cosmetics - UK - May 2019

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