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Managing Skin Conditions - China - February 2018

“Minor skin conditions seem to be no big deal for Chinese consumers. The majority of them don’t bother to use specialised products or take medicines to treat their skin conditions. In order to broaden consumer base and usage frequencies, cosmeceuticals need to promote more preventative usage by positioning as a holistic approach to maintain a healthy skin, or address lifestyle factors (such as stressful life, lack of sleep etc) which is regarded as the crucial cause of skin conditions.”

– Alice Li, Research Analyst

This report examines the following issues:

  • Solutions that echo with lifestyles are needed
  • A good ingredient story is bilateral
  • Focus shifts to prevention

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Table of contents

  1. Overview

    • What you need to know
      • Covered in this Report
      • Executive Summary

          • Market and competition
            • The consumer
              • Pore issues are most common skin conditions
                • Figure 1: Skin conditions experienced in the last six months, November 2017
              • Lifestyles cause skin conditions
                • Figure 2: Cause of skin conditions, November 2017
              • Cosmeceuticals not prioritised option to battle against skin issues
                • Figure 3: Treatments used to improve skin conditions in the last six months, females, November 2017
              • Avène, Vichy, La Roche-Posay and Doctor Li report the highest penetration
                • Figure 4: Cosmeceutical brands used in the last six months, November 2017
              • Free from undesired chemicals is important
                • Figure 5: Attitudes towards chemical ingredients in skincare, November 2017
              • Opportunity to expand to preventative usage
                • Figure 6: Attitudes towards cosmeceuticals, November 2017
              • What we think
              • Issues and Insights

                • Solutions that echo with lifestyles are needed
                  • The facts
                    • The implications
                      • Figure 7: Oltana Skin Meditation Overnight Repair High Function Night Cream, Japan, 2017
                      • Figure 8: Nia Fake Awake Triple-Eye Gel, US, 2017
                      • Figure 9: 58 Lifestyle Hygge Kit, UK, 2016
                    • A good ingredient story is bilateral
                      • The facts
                        • The implications
                          • Figure 10: Example of ingredient analysis on Beauty Evolution
                        • Focus shifts to prevention
                          • The facts
                            • The implications
                              • Figure 11: Cogi Extra Brightening Spot Correction Essence, China, 2017
                          • Market and Competition – What You Need to Know

                            • Long history but started gaining momentum in recent years
                              • Key players go with distinct approaches
                              • Market Overview

                                • Market Drivers

                                  • Benefit from the growth of the entire beauty market
                                    • Growing diversity in product offerings
                                      • Figure 12: New launches of Spanish cosmeceutical brands, China, 2017-18
                                    • Specialised retail channels provide guiding choices
                                      • Figure 13: L'Oréal Derma Center, China
                                      • Figure 14: eSkin online shopping website, China
                                    • Worried about the worsening environment
                                      • Cosmetics safety issues may divert consumers to cosmeceuticals
                                      • Key Players

                                        • French brands: soothing sensitive skin with thermal water
                                          • Figure 15: Information about Avène’s thermal spring water, China
                                        • Japanese brands: whitening benefits outstand
                                          • Figure 16: Whitening products from Japanese cosmeceutical brands, China, 2017
                                        • American brands: powerful solutions with active ingredients
                                          • Figure 17: New launches of American cosmeceutical brands, China, 2017
                                        • South Korean brands: developed from clinics
                                          • Figure 18: New launches of South Korean cosmeceutical brands, China, 2017
                                        • German brands: affordable options in the mass market
                                          • Figure 19: New launches of German cosmeceutical brands, China, 2017-18
                                        • Chinese brands: leveraging traditional Chinese medicine and hospital endorsement
                                          • Figure 20: Examples of cosmeceuticals from Chinese pharmaceutical companies, China, 2016-17
                                          • Figure 21: Examples of Winona product, China, 2017
                                          • Figure 22: Examples of Dr.Yu product, China, 2018
                                      • Who’s Innovating?

                                        • Skincare
                                          • Chinese brands could leverage dermatological claims more
                                            • Figure 23: New skincare launches with ‘Dermatologically Tested’ claim, China, Japan, South Korea, France, Germany and US, 2015-17
                                          • Sensitive skin claims are evolving in Asia
                                            • Figure 24: New skincare launches, by claim, China, Japan and South Korea, 2017
                                            • Figure 25: Examples of products with ‘hypoallergenic’/‘allergy tested’ claims, Japan and South Korea, 2017
                                          • K-beauty rejuvenated centella asiatica with dermocosmetic approach
                                            • Figure 26: Examples of cica creams, South Korea, 2017
                                          • Walgreens co-develops products with its consumers
                                            • Figure 27: Example of YourGoodSkin product, US, 2017
                                          • Colour cosmetics
                                            • Cushion compacts take on derma claims
                                              • Figure 28: Examples of cushion compacts with derma claims, China and South Korea, 2017
                                            • Beauty device and technology
                                              • Neutrogena to provide clinical light acne therapy
                                                • Figure 29: Neutrogena Visibly Clear Light Therapy Acne Mask, UK, 2017
                                              • Easy at-home skin test on your phone
                                                • Figure 30: Example of Meitu Beauty’s skin test, China, 2017
                                                • Figure 31: Example of Neutrogena’s skin scanner, US, 2018
                                            • The Consumer – What You Need to Know

                                              • Males and females report distinct skin profiles
                                                • Two thirds of respondents ascribe their skin conditions to lifestyle
                                                  • French brands have the highest penetration
                                                    • Preservatives, colourant and alcohol are most unwelcomed
                                                      • Effective ingredients make the difference in cosmeceuticals
                                                      • Skin Type

                                                        • Different skin profiles of females and males
                                                          • Figure 32: Skin type, by gender, November 2017
                                                        • 25 years old is a turning point
                                                          • Figure 33: Skin type, by age, November 2017
                                                        • Tier one city consumers more likely to have oily skin
                                                          • Figure 34: Skin type, by city tier, November 2017
                                                      • Skin Conditions

                                                        • Males and females need different solutions
                                                          • Figure 35: Skin conditions experienced in the last six months, by gender, November 2017
                                                        • Young consumers experience enlarged pores and acne most
                                                          • Figure 36: Skin conditions experienced in the last six months, by age, November 2017
                                                        • Skin types drive conditions
                                                          • Figure 37: Skin conditions experienced in the last six months, by skin type, November 2017
                                                        • Females with combination skin report more skin conditions
                                                          • Figure 38: Number of skin conditions experienced in the last six months, by skin type and gender, November 2017
                                                      • Causes of Skin Conditions

                                                        • Lifestyle factors are main causes
                                                          • Figure 39: Cause of skin conditions, November 2017
                                                        • Gender differences
                                                          • Figure 40: Reversa Skin Firming Gel-Cream, Canada
                                                          • Figure 41: Cause of skin conditions, by gender, November 2017
                                                          • Figure 42: Examples of anti-aging and sunscreen cosmeceuticals, China, 2016-17
                                                        • High earners more concerned about external factors
                                                          • Figure 43: Cause of skin conditions, by monthly personal income, November 2017
                                                      • Treatments Used

                                                        • Natural and less costly methods go first
                                                          • Figure 44: Treatments used to improve skin conditions in the last six months, females, November 2017
                                                        • Lower tier city consumers take more measures
                                                          • Figure 45: Treatments used to improve skin conditions in the last six months, by city tier, females, November 2017
                                                        • Dermatitis and thin skin drive usage of cosmeceuticals
                                                          • Figure 46: Use cosmeceuticals in the last six months, by skin conditions, females, November 2017
                                                        • Minor skin conditions not enough for males to take actions
                                                          • Figure 47: Treatments used to improve skin conditions in the last six months, males, November 2017
                                                      • Brand Penetration

                                                        • Tier one brands: the French troika and Doctor Li
                                                          • Figure 48: Cosmeceutical brands used in the last six months, November 2017
                                                          • Figure 49: Doctor Li Blackhead Cleansing Care Set, China, 2017
                                                        • 30-year-old males worth attention from brands
                                                          • Figure 50: Consumers who haven’t used any cosmeceuticals in the last six months, by gender and age, November 2017
                                                        • Avène and La Roche-Posay have a younger consumer base
                                                          • Figure 51: Top four cosmeceutical brands used in the last six months, by age, females, November 2017
                                                        • Oily skin favours Doctor Li
                                                          • Figure 52: Top four cosmeceutical brands used in the last six months, by skin type, females, November 2017
                                                      • Attitudes towards Chemicals

                                                        • Preservatives have the most negative image
                                                          • Figure 53: Attitudes towards chemical ingredients in skincare, November 2017
                                                          • Figure 54: Free-from claims of new skincare launches, China, 2015-17
                                                        • Consumers need more education about sulphate
                                                          • Figure 55: Consumers who claim ‘I don’t know much about this ingredient’, by age, November 2017
                                                        • Tier one city consumers report lack of knowledge about chemicals
                                                          • Figure 56: Consumers who claim ‘I don’t know much about this ingredient’, by city tier, November 2017
                                                      • Attitudes towards Cosmeceuticals

                                                        • Body skin conditions need more care
                                                          • Figure 57: Consumers who strongly agree with ‘I hope to see more cosmeceuticals specifically for body skin conditions*’, by demographics, November 2017
                                                          • Figure 58: Examples of cosmeceuticals for body skin conditions, France and Japan, 2018
                                                        • Consumers value effective ingredients used in cosmeceuticals
                                                          • Figure 59: Attitudes towards formulation of cosmeceuticals, November 2017
                                                        • Cosmeceuticals can be used daily but dependence issue concerns
                                                          • Figure 60: Attitudes towards cosmeceuticals, November 2017
                                                      • Meet the Mintropolitans

                                                        • What are the different skin concerns of MinTs and Non-MinTs?
                                                          • Figure 61: Gaps between Mintropolitans and Non-Mintropolitans in terms of skin conditions in the last six months (Non-Mintropolitans as benchmark), by gender, November 2017
                                                        • Address lifestyle factors for male Mintropolitans
                                                          • Figure 62: Consumers who think lifestyle factors cause skin conditions, by gender and consumer classification, November 2017
                                                        • Some local brands achieve higher penetration among MinTs
                                                          • Figure 63: Gaps between Mintropolitans and Non-Mintropolitans in terms of cosmeceutical brands used in the last six months (Non-Mintropolitans as benchmark), females, November 2017
                                                        • Accept alcohol as the necessary ‘evil’
                                                          • Figure 64: Consumers who claim ‘I won’t buy skincare products that contain this ingredient’, by consumer classification, November 2017
                                                      • Appendix – Methodology and Abbreviations

                                                        • Methodology
                                                          • Abbreviations

                                                          Managing Skin Conditions - China - February 2018

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